Opti-coat users: Whaddya think?

But I do know that clearcoat is acrylic polymer based. And if I'm so wrong I'm sure Dr G would come here and hand me my arse on a golden platter. And did he intentionally misinform a customer that he added ammonia or was that a misinterpretation by the customer?



Believe it or not, I'd like to think that Dr G was misinterpreted. I really don't like to think that a manufacturer would intentionally mislead customers about his product. But go ahead and call me a liar. I can take it.



Funny, there's an unanswered question about product buildup on Optimum Forums-maybe he didn't see it.



And once again, I W A S W R O N G, Armstrong soap is not good to use on cars as Dr G pointed out.
 
wannafbody said:
But I do know that clearcoat is acrylic polymer based. And if I'm so wrong I'm sure Dr G would come here and hand me my arse on a golden platter. And did he intentionally misinform a customer that he added ammonia or was that a misinterpretation by the customer?



Ay, caramba! Who cares if clearcoat is acrylic polymer-based? What does that have to do with the price of tea in the Goodyear cafeteria? And who knows what was said in that conversation, did you have a wiretap on the phone? Did you ever play that telephone game when you were a kid and sit in a circle and whisper chemical equations into the ear of the kid next to you? At the end of the circle did it come out as a redox or acid-base reaction? Oh wait, I'm thinking of chemistry class...which you clearly were never in.



I guess I'm just feeding the troll. Sorry guys.
 
I will try and answer some of the questions from the original poster and and others prior to this thread going into the garbage.







1. How did you feel it made the car look as far as gloss/depth/wetness go?

Even on a new car it will add gloss to the paint. Silver shows the most improvement. If your polished finish looks wet it will look slightly wetter after application.



2. Was it really that hard to apply?

No. You do have to pay attention and do one panel at a time. As stated wipe it on, watch it flash and knock it down. you can tell it's there because your towel will become dragey.



3. What method did you use to apply it, hand or spray?

We have used foam, cloth, paper towel, and spray application. Anthony and I have found that the best application for us is to use a foam applicator wrapped inside a latex glove and then covered with a thin flat MF or cotton towel. This method will place more of the product on the paint not in the applicator. The spray method is nice as well but uses quite a bit of product.



Anthony has done a few applications with an air brush it uses alot more product this way and can be tricky if you happen to lay too much in one area. Conditions must be clam. The best method to date is still by hand.



5. How long ago did you apply it, and how is it holding up?

We started applying it over 4 years ago during testing. We couldn't tell you how many applications we have done since then but it';s quite a bit. I applied it to my wife's black Expedition 3 years ago? Her car looks great even after a tunnel wash. It will not prevent scratches from brushes as I found this out after looking at the back of her car. Seams the boys at this tunnel wash have a brush on a stick and use it to pre scrub the backs and lower parts of the car prior to entering the tunnel.

She did rear end someone two years ago and had to have the hood repainted. The new paint hasn't pealed off. This is due to proper prep by the body shop. Not special prep just proper prep.



6. How easily is it cleaned? Specifically, if there's bugs, tar, and even just ordinary every day dirt on it, how easily does it release these contaminants, ie, does it need a mitt, or could you just spray it off with a pressure washer?

Cars clean up really easy especially the wheels. Brake dust can almost be entirely blasted off with a pressure washer the rest can be knocked off with a soft brush and a little apc.



7. What determines whether or not Optimum will sell it to you?

Attitude says alot. If your going to talk out of you butt lift one check so Dr. G can completely understand what it is your saying.

I'm sure if you call him directly and show him your a competent, level headed and willingness to sign the release he might sell it to you. If you detail for a living it will be much easier.



At the shop we like to apply two coats of the product. Your probably thinking that I read it cant be layered. It can as long as you do it right away. We have never done more then two coats. What we do is coat the entire car then apply the second coat from the original starting point. After the cure time if you apply the coating it will become cloudy. I learned this first hand with a BMW. Anthony and I applied the coating to one quarter panel on the car. The customer liked it so much that two weeks later he wanted the entire car done. When I got to this quarter it started to become hazy and cloudy.

I called Dr. G right away and he explained to me what was going on.



We top all applications with Optimum Spray Wax. The coating doesn't feel slick after it's applied so we do this to give the customer that physical reward when they touch the paint.



Types of vehicles we have applied this product to. Porsche, Aston Martin, Maserati, Ferrari, BMW, Ford, Chevy, Nissan, Chrysler, Dodge, Acura and an old 55 or 56 speedster. All with out any negative side affects.



The only negative experience we have ever had was a couple of months ago. We had a black Mercedes in the shop. We did paint correction, applied a clear bra to the front then the coating. The problem was the clear bra was cut wrong for the hood. and needed to be replaced when I pulled it off there was a line where the coating stopped and the old clear bra started. This line was difficult to remove.



As far as the smell of the product if you put it straight to your nose yeah it smells but when your applying it you really cant tell. Or maybe I'm just used to it.



Hope this helps.
 
Quote from Wikipedia:



Acrylic acid and its esters readily combine with themselves or other monomers (e.g. amides, acrylonitrile, vinyl, styrene, and butadiene) by reacting at their double bond, forming homopolymers or copolymers which are used in the manufacture of various plastics, coatings, adhesives, elastomers, as well as floor polishes, and paints.(end quote)
 
Quote from Setecipedia:



"Posters who have no background in a subject but persist in cutting-and-pasting irrelevant snippets that they don't understand from other websites should be forced to have lunch in the Goodyear cafeteria with TOGWT for eternity."



Being that I have relatives who are ChemE's and a friend whose father was a PhD chemist, I am insulted for them that you think that being able to look up something on Wikipedia makes you think you know or understand something about chemistry.
 
seech said:
I find that you do have to be careful not to store the syringe with the nozzle facing up as what little air trapped inside the syringe will accumulate at the nozzle and the OC can start to harden a little in that area. Best to store it nozzle faced down.



Thanks for the tip! :)
 
Troll (Internet)

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia





In Internet slang, a troll is someone who posts inflammatory, extraneous, or off-topic messages in an online community, such as an online discussion forum, chat room, or blog, with the primary intent of provoking other users into a desired emotional response[1] or of otherwise disrupting normal on-topic discussion.[2] In addition to the offending poster, the noun “troll” can also refer to the provocative message itself, as in that was an excellent troll you posted. While the term troll and its associated action, trolling, are primarily associated with Internet discourse, media attention in recent years has made such labels highly subjective, with 'trolling' being used to describe many intentionally provocative actions outside of an online context.
 
At the shop we like to apply two coats of the product. Your probably thinking that I read it cant be layered. It can as long as you do it right away. We have never done more then two coats. What we do is coat the entire car then apply the second coat from the original starting point. After the cure time if you apply the coating it will become cloudy. I learned this first hand with a BMW. Anthony and I applied the coating to one quarter panel on the car. The customer liked it so much that two weeks later he wanted the entire car done. When I got to this quarter it started to become hazy and cloudy.

I called Dr. G right away and he explained to me what was going on.



We top all applications with Optimum Spray Wax. The coating doesn't feel slick after it's applied so we do this to give the customer that physical reward when they touch the paint.



Quick question for you. In David's review the ease of cleaning OC adds looks amazing with the way it shed those bugs off. I was just wondering if topping it with OCW or similar product would lessen those cleaning properties? I also like to use OQD as a drying aid and just want to make sure I get the most out of the coating.





Thanks,

Rasky
 
I will try and answer some of the questions from the original poster and and others prior to this thread going into the garbage.









Even on a new car it will add gloss to the paint. Silver shows the most improvement. If your polished finish looks wet it will look slightly wetter after application.





No. You do have to pay attention and do one panel at a time. As stated wipe it on, watch it flash and knock it down. you can tell it's there because your towel will become dragey.





We have used foam, cloth, paper towel, and spray application. Anthony and I have found that the best application for us is to use a foam applicator wrapped inside a latex glove and then covered with a thin flat MF or cotton towel. This method will place more of the product on the paint not in the applicator. The spray method is nice as well but uses quite a bit of product.



Anthony has done a few applications with an air brush it uses alot more product this way and can be tricky if you happen to lay too much in one area. Conditions must be clam. The best method to date is still by hand.





We started applying it over 4 years ago during testing. We couldn't tell you how many applications we have done since then but it';s quite a bit. I applied it to my wife's black Expedition 3 years ago? Her car looks great even after a tunnel wash. It will not prevent scratches from brushes as I found this out after looking at the back of her car. Seams the boys at this tunnel wash have a brush on a stick and use it to pre scrub the backs and lower parts of the car prior to entering the tunnel.

She did rear end someone two years ago and had to have the hood repainted. The new paint hasn't pealed off. This is due to proper prep by the body shop. Not special prep just proper prep.





Cars clean up really easy especially the wheels. Brake dust can almost be entirely blasted off with a pressure washer the rest can be knocked off with a soft brush and a little apc.





Attitude says alot. If your going to talk out of you butt lift one check so Dr. G can completely understand what it is your saying.

I'm sure if you call him directly and show him your a competent, level headed and willingness to sign the release he might sell it to you. If you detail for a living it will be much easier.



At the shop we like to apply two coats of the product. Your probably thinking that I read it cant be layered. It can as long as you do it right away. We have never done more then two coats. What we do is coat the entire car then apply the second coat from the original starting point. After the cure time if you apply the coating it will become cloudy. I learned this first hand with a BMW. Anthony and I applied the coating to one quarter panel on the car. The customer liked it so much that two weeks later he wanted the entire car done. When I got to this quarter it started to become hazy and cloudy.

I called Dr. G right away and he explained to me what was going on.



We top all applications with Optimum Spray Wax. The coating doesn't feel slick after it's applied so we do this to give the customer that physical reward when they touch the paint.



Types of vehicles we have applied this product to. Porsche, Aston Martin, Maserati, Ferrari, BMW, Ford, Chevy, Nissan, Chrysler, Dodge, Acura and an old 55 or 56 speedster. All with out any negative side affects.



The only negative experience we have ever had was a couple of months ago. We had a black Mercedes in the shop. We did paint correction, applied a clear bra to the front then the coating. The problem was the clear bra was cut wrong for the hood. and needed to be replaced when I pulled it off there was a line where the coating stopped and the old clear bra started. This line was difficult to remove.



As far as the smell of the product if you put it straight to your nose yeah it smells but when your applying it you really cant tell. Or maybe I'm just used to it.



Hope this helps.



Wow, thanks for all the info!



This definitely answers alot of questions.
 
Quick question for you. In David's review the ease of cleaning OC adds looks amazing with the way it shed those bugs off. I was just wondering if topping it with OCW or similar product would lessen those cleaning properties? I also like to use OQD as a drying aid and just want to make sure I get the most out of the coating.



Applying OCW will enhance the look of the finish as will the QD. Applying these products will not increase or decrease the performance of the coating based on our experiences.



As a side note adding your favorite wax over the coating will just further enhance the overall look of the coating and the car and should feel noticeably slicker!
 
To add some info about the spray method......A spray gun can give some great results but as Ron noted you will go through more product. I would suggest a mini-gun or an airbrush with a larger spray pattern, some airbrushes come with fan tips but even then it's maybe 2 inches.



Paper towels work very nice but make sure they are the blue shop type. They should feel soft to the touch....3M makes some really nice disposable clean up towels that I use (white in color) and they work very nice.



I have been using the coating longer than anyone and it's so cool to now see the idea we had those years ago come to a reality. Many of the claims I made about it years ago can now be experienced by others and while it's not the perfect product for all situations and all people it's nice to see it find a place in the professional detailers arsenal who choose to use it.



Anthony
 
....just wanted to say "thank you" to all of you who have spent the time sharing your experiences with us on this product. :2thumbs: Although I may never have OC applied to my vehicle(s), it's still exciting to read about new products like this with surprising performance/results.
 
Anthony / Dents & Details,



Quote: "Anthony and I have found that the best application for us is to use a foam applicator wrapped inside a latex glove and then covered with a thin flat MF or cotton towel."







So you're saying it's alright to use a thin microfiber to apply the coating? If I use this method, do I have to worry about lint getting embedded in the coating, or does it wipe off similar to Opti-Seal? I wouldn't want to have fibers stuck in the coating for good. Also, about how long do you guys wait after it has been applied to "knock it down" with a microfiber cloth? I am guessing you apply the coating to the complete car, then go back and give the exterior a wipedown. Is this correct?



Is there a specific temperature that is best to apply the coating? Does humidity affect the curing time / end results?



After polishing the car, what is your preferred method to ensure there are no polishing oils left on the finish for proper bonding of the coating? Is an alcohol wipedown enough, or do you wash the car, degrease and perform an alcohol wipedown to make absolutely sure?



Once you have used this coating on a car, has it been more dificult to polish next time around? As you mentioned, the coating cannot be layered, unless it is immediately after the first coat, but if you get a car back for a maintenance detail a year later and the car has scratches, can you do the necessary compounding / polishing and apply the coating again, or is it a one time deal?



What has been the best methods you have found to remove the coating if you absolutely had to? Heavy compounding? just curious...





Thanks and sorry for all the questions. I am eager to try it and want to know as much as possible before giving it a shot.





Best regards,

~Rick
 
>...defenetly there are great studies about this product. It would be interesting on actually devolping an effective way to make it a spray on.
 
RickRack said:
Anthony / Dents & Details,



Quote: "Anthony and I have found that the best application for us is to use a foam applicator wrapped inside a latex glove and then covered with a thin flat MF or cotton towel."







So you're saying it's alright to use a thin microfiber to apply the coating? If I use this method, do I have to worry about lint getting embedded in the coating, or does it wipe off similar to Opti-Seal? I wouldn't want to have fibers stuck in the coating for good. Also, about how long do you guys wait after it has been applied to "knock it down" with a microfiber cloth? I am guessing you apply the coating to the complete car, then go back and give the exterior a wipedown. Is this correct?



Is there a specific temperature that is best to apply the coating? Does humidity affect the curing time / end results?



After polishing the car, what is your preferred method to ensure there are no polishing oils left on the finish for proper bonding of the coating? Is an alcohol wipedown enough, or do you wash the car, degrease and perform an alcohol wipedown to make absolutely sure?



Once you have used this coating on a car, has it been more dificult to polish next time around? As you mentioned, the coating cannot be layered, unless it is immediately after the first coat, but if you get a car back for a maintenance detail a year later and the car has scratches, can you do the necessary compounding / polishing and apply the coating again, or is it a one time deal?



What has been the best methos you have found to remove the coating if you absolutely had to? Heavy compounding? just curious...





Thanks and sorry for all the questions. I am eager to try it and want to know as much as possible before giving it a shot.





Best regards,

~Rick



Rick,



Here is a snippet from David Feramani's post when he first got the coating. I tried to answer his questions as good as I could and perhaps it will answer some of yours also. Let me know if you have more questions.



Anthony







1) Do all your prep work to get the paint to your level of personal perfection. (washed, clayed, buffed)



2) Make sure you give all panels an alcohol wipe down.



3) My applicator of choice is an airgun but since not everyone has an airgun the next best method is application by hand. A suede microfiber cyclo pad placed over an orange 4inch foam pad is my choice of applicator by hand. I also have used a very dense low pile microfiber "sock" which also works nicely. Don't use anything that absorbs too much product.



4) When applying use it sparingly, applying only to small sections. So on your fender for instance, apply it to the whole fender working the product in until almost evaporated. Then taking a soft towel buff that panel down. Don't allow it to dry or set too long before buffing down as you'll notice streaks that dry and set which will then have to be machine buffed off.



By doing sections you'll avoid "start and stop lines". So if your hood, for example, has a body line that separates the two sides then apply the right side, buff down and then do the other side. This is best rather than trying to apply it to the whole hood. The problem with applying to a large area is that the product will dry and set before you can properly work the product over that large area. It's much like Opti-Seal in application in that as you apply it it begins to evaporate.



5) If you wish to layer the product it can be done but do it shortly after the first coat. I have had some instances where it layers and others where it doesn't and can be finicky when being applied over itself.



6) Cool temps are best for application.



7) Don't wash or get the surface wet for at least 48 hours.



8) Opti-Coat can be waxed after application, it can even be lightly polished with something like FPII and a finishing pad.



9) The product is safe and is not explosive nor corrosive. Opti-Coat will clog the needle though so clean it promptly after each use with some paint thinner.



10) Lastly just take your time. You'll soon develop your own method of application after some trial and error. I hope it works well for you.



As for the 3 year claim, I have had it on cars longer than 3 years BUT I am not running these cars through car washes that use harsh soaps. It has been on portions of my wifes car for over a year now and those portions when washed show it going strong still. It has far outlasted any wax or polymer sealant that I have also applied on her car. It has gone through a few automated car washes when I have been too dang lazy to wash it myself.
 
my signuture comes from Don Henley's song Heart of the Matter """The more I know, the less I understand All the things I thought I knew, I'm learning again"""""





Setec Astronomy said:
Contrary to your assertion that you will admit publicly when you are wrong, you seem like one of those people who, when confronted with their error, just keep sputtering out excuses and diversions to keep from having to admit they stated something foolish. You've trotted out such a laundry list of ridiculous "points" and veiled accusations...what is this latest one, that Opti-Coat is relabeled nail polish? Dude, you are so "classy". If I were Dr. G or Sal I wouldn't dignify you with a response, either. No one knows everything, but then there are the people who don't even know enough to realize that some people know more than they do.



Where is that smiley...oh, here it is: :tribe:



EDIT: I used to think I knew everything...when I was 18. As MDRX8 says in his sig...the more I learn the less I know, or more accurately, the more I learn the more I realize the less I know, OR, in the words of Bob Dylan "I was so much older then, I'm younger than that now".
 
Thanks Anthony!



That clears up a lot.



In your opinion, is it worth doing an additional coat right after the first, or is one coat fine? Does two coats add durability or better looks, or is it more to ensure ample coverage?



Also, you say it can be lightly polished after application. Will light polishing help "flow" out the coating? Will this add anything to the looks? How long do you wait before polishing it (48 hours)?





Thanks!

~Rick
 
Finally we are getting somewhere.



So what is the proper application to cars where the roof is connected to the rear bumpers? Large area on both sides of the car.
 
salty said:
Finally we are getting somewhere.



So what is the proper application to cars where the roof is connected to the rear bumpers? Large area on both sides of the car.



There can certainly be overlapping. I hate to compare it to ONR, but it's just like that. ONR will dry faster in direct sun or windy conditions. In those cases you just do smaller sectons and mover faster. In that respect, Opticoat is the same. Do an area that you feel has not dried too much to knock down the high spots, buff that area...then move on. It is not necessary to do full body panels, just sections. Hope that makes sense. I truly think most all of the application questions could be answered after you apply it to 1 to 2 panels yourself. It is almost the same application as OS with the exception of doing the whole car, then going back over the high spots.
 
Have any of those who've actually used Opticoat seen any documentation that shows that OptiCoat performs at a higher level than the clear coat on a vehicle as delivered by the manufacturer-or is all the hype about the product unfounded and undocumented?
 
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