Opti-coat users: Whaddya think?

Silliness and conspiracy theories aside......



Opti-Coat may indeed be better protection than OEM clear. I base that claim on some interesting observations.



Clear coat will oxidize over time yet when cleaned and polished it will again bead water prior to any sealant or wax application. Opti-Coat though continues to bead/shed water for an extended period of time. This may mean that Opti-Coat is far more impervious to environmental damage than OEM clear.



Now to reply to some other claims...



Opti-Coat CAN IN FACT be layered as long as the second layer is within 30 minutes of first application. If allowed to fully cure the Opti-Coat basically rejects another layer.



By applying Opti-Coat to a clients car it DOES NOT mean that you have lost or given up business. We have it on dozens of our clients cars and many of them still come in weekly for car washes and general maintenance. They are still waxed and the cars are just easier to clean also.



Opti-Coat CAN be waxed or sealed over once cured. So it does not replace a professional detailers

wax and sealants but rather adds to their available offerings. For example you can have a package deal for a wash and wax detail for say $150, you then have a paint sealant detail for say $250 and then you have a paint COATING detail which can be priced around $500 and up.



Once the Optimum interior protection is completed then you have a full protection system that you can offer both retail and dealers.



Anthony
 
tdekany said:
WFB - you are unreal. Is it medication, or drugs that are doing this? :D



So based on the above, should Optimum go after you because intentionally or unintentionally you may have caused Optimum lost sales? :think::think::think:
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BINGO!!!



I keep telling myself that I just need to stop responding to "wannafbody", but his continuing absurdity and hypocrisy make it very difficult for me.



The very thought that he took GatorJ's post as a "threat" is so preposterous it isn't even funny. More lost credibility? I didn't think it was possible, yet he continues to prove me wrong.



Unbelievable. :rolleyes:
 
Anthony Orosco said:
Silliness and conspiracy theories aside......



Opti-Coat may indeed be better protection than OEM clear. I base that claim on some interesting observations.



Clear coat will oxidize over time yet when cleaned and polished it will again bead water prior to any sealant or wax application. Opti-Coat though continues to bead/shed water for an extended period of time. This may mean that Opti-Coat is far more impervious to environmental damage than OEM clear.



Now to reply to some other claims...



Opti-Coat CAN IN FACT be layered as long as the second layer is within 30 minutes of first application. If allowed to fully cure the Opti-Coat basically rejects another layer.



By applying Opti-Coat to a clients car it DOES NOT mean that you have lost or given up business. We have it on dozens of our clients cars and many of them still come in weekly for car washes and general maintenance. They are still waxed and the cars are just easier to clean also.



Opti-Coat CAN be waxed or sealed over once cured. So it does not replace a professional detailers

wax and sealants but rather adds to their available offerings. For example you can have a package deal for a wash and wax detail for say $150, you then have a paint sealant detail for say $250 and then you have a paint COATING detail which can be priced around $500 and up.



Once the Optimum interior protection is completed then you have a full protection system that you can offer both retail and dealers.



Anthony
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That's some very interesting observations Anthony. I always found the clearcoat chalking and dulling an interesting phenomena. I've also observed first hand that paint underneath clearcoat can fade as well, so anything that stops that fading is a good thing. What is the lifespan of the Opticoat? I'm asking because I have seen clearcoat paint that is still in great shape in the 13 plus year range. Is there a point at which the OC is expected to need to be removed or is it expected to have a lifespan in excess of the OEM clearcoat?
 
As it was mentioned, such coatings build a few microns (usually 2-5) over the paint matrix. Therefore, if this amount can provide stable protection for 2-3 years over the 100-130 micron average paint film, that's more than acceptable to me. And it's renewable. So, substantially more than a 20-30 nanometer thick conventional LSP layer, but still significantly less than BC/CC paint matrixes.



And again, covalent silane (glass) coatings are no miracle. The technology is not new, but the formulas keep improving as with all competitive products. They protect outstandingly good, but remember, if a grit particle can scratch through the entire paint film, a coating can not prevent this. Keep your expectations realistic.
 
Anthony Orosco said:
\

Once the Optimum interior protection is completed then you have a full protection system that you can offer both retail and dealers.



Anthony
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I may have missed this, but there is an interior protectant also? More info pls! :)
 
Bence said:
As it was mentioned, such coatings build a few microns (usually 2-5) over the paint matrix. Therefore, if this amount can provide stable protection for 2-3 years over the 100-130 micron average paint film, that's more than acceptable to me. And it's renewable. So, substantially more than a 20-30 nanometer thick conventional LSP layer, but still significantly less than BC/CC paint matrixes.



And again, covalent silane (glass) coatings are no miracle. The technology is not new, but the formulas keep improving as with all competitive products. They protect outstandingly good, but remember, if a grit particle can scratch through the entire paint film, a coating can not prevent this. Keep your expectations realistic.
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You seem to have missed that Anthony has stated that after curing that OC can't be layered. So I'm assuming that at some point it will have to removed in order to be renewed. But you seem to agree with my suspicion that this isn't a revolutionary product but rather an evolutionary product.
 
wannafbody said:
You seem to have missed that Anthony has stated that after curing that OC can't be layered. So I'm assuming that at some point it will have to removed in order to be renewed. But you seem to agree with my suspicion that this isn't a revolutionary product but rather an evolutionary product.
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I haven't missed it wannafbody. I just said that in a typical one layer application, glass coatings build the mentioned layer thickness. No spin, no other whispers from the unconsciousness. That's THE info part of my sentence.



And by the end of its service, the coating gathers fine imperfections, marring, scratches - EXACTLY as a normal clearcoat. THEREFORE, when you prepare your car for the next round of coating, you have to polish out the defects as you'd normally do on your normal paint. And this normal polishing session removes the coating, and preps the paint surface for a new one. Simple as that. Coatings are polishable/correctable, removable, waxable, sealable. Just as Dubya said: it's no rocket surgery...



And I think the products themselves are evolutionary, their performance is truly revolutionary and exemplary.
 
OK, but the claim for this product is that a cleaner wax or polish won't remove it-if I understand it correctly. So it has to be sanded off or removed with a heavy compound. That means that for the average consumer for all intended purposes it's near permanent. What happens as it nears the end of it's lifecycle? How does the product look and perform? What if the second or third owner doesn't know how to get the product off?
 
Milder products won't work, but a compound certainly will.



The product looks totally uniform when thins out. It won't bead when it's worn off. NOTHING happens even with the umpteenth owner. Why in the hell do they have to know that it is on? It's a positively protective product, and far better than the cheap silicone loaded s#it that dealerships apply using bucketloads of it and the silicone keeps creeping down to the metal and it's practically unremovable. THAT'S what you should fear of, not a silane coating. If a panel needs a repaint, it has to be prepped (again, as above; plus sanding) and that means that the coating is gone. Snap.



You can remove smaller defect out of it with a finishing polish, adding gloss, etc.



Why do you have this fear-of-removal-fixation? Screwed up? Strip it back with a compound, start again. Snap.



So, a glass coating is NOT a wrap of a silicone loaded, oily hymen which counters the defloration attempts of a hard, hotly spinning cutting pad. It's a dry, cured layer of pure protection, sitting happily on top of the paint, and it can be removed at will, any time.
 
I agree that it's a better solution than a silicone oil laden product. I'm sure it protects better too. I'm just asking for my own information. But out of curiosity Bence, what makes you such an expert on these coatings and how they perform over extended periods of time? The only glass coating I've used was Glare and didn't find it all that great.



Didn't Blue Corral make a coating?
 
Bence said:
Milder products won't work, but a compound certainly will.



The product looks totally uniform when thins out. It won't bead when it's worn off. NOTHING happens even with the umpteenth owner. Why in the hell do they have to know that it is on? It's a positively protective product, and far better than the cheap silicone loaded s#it that dealerships apply using bucketloads of it and the silicone keeps creeping down to the metal and it's practically unremovable. THAT'S what you should fear of, not a silane coating. If a panel needs a repaint, it has to be prepped (again, as above; plus sanding) and that means that the coating is gone. Snap.



You can remove smaller defect out of it with a finishing polish, adding gloss, etc.



Why do you have this fear-of-removal-fixation? Screwed up? Strip it back with a compound, start again. Snap.



So, a glass coating is NOT a wrap of a silicone loaded, oily hymen which counters the defloration attempts of a hard, hotly spinning cutting pad. It's a dry, cured layer of pure protection, sitting happily on top of the paint, and it can be removed at will, any time.
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I have a couple of questions for you or someone who has been testing the product. Has anyone removed fully cured Opti-Coat from a two stage painted panel? If so, was there some way to determine you had removed the product and were down to the clearcoat?



I have one tube/syringe of Opti-Coat and three bottles each of the AQuartz/AQuartz+ system. I haven't applied either and I have no intention of doing so just to remove the product, I was (frankly) just curious.



Also, AQuartz provides a small decal/sticker you can put on the car after it is coated to inform the world you've been "AQuartzed". Perhaps Dr. G could have one made up for Opti-Coat to alleviate certain people's concerns that subsequent purchasers and/or body shops will be put on notice a coating has been applied.
 
wannafbody said:
I agree that it's a better solution than a silicone oil laden product. I'm sure it protects better too. I'm just asking for my own information. But out of curiosity Bence, what makes you such an expert on these coatings and how they perform over extended periods of time? The only glass coating I've used was Glare and didn't find it all that great.



Didn't Blue Corral make a coating?
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Not meaning to be rude but you most likely won't ever use Opti-Coat so I see no reason why you have such a hard-on for knowing what makes it tick? Again why not save us and you this banter and just pick up a phone and call Dr. G.? What are you afraid of? That he may know who you are? Or perhaps that all your questions will be answered and that would be boring?
 
GatorJ said:
I have a couple of questions for you or someone who has been testing the product. Has anyone removed fully cured Opti-Coat from a two stage painted panel? If so, was there some way to determine you had removed the product and were down to the clearcoat?



I have one tube/syringe of Opti-Coat and three bottles each of the AQuartz/AQuartz+ system. I haven't applied either and I have no intention of doing so just to remove the product, I was (frankly) just curious.



Also, AQuartz provides a small decal/sticker you can put on the car after it is coated to inform the world you've been "AQuartzed". Perhaps Dr. G could have one made up for Opti-Coat to alleviate certain people's concerns that subsequent purchasers and/or body shops will be put on notice a coating has been applied.
Click to expand...



You'll know mainly by the way water reacts with the surface. A compound and a wool pad will weaken Opti-Coat and subsequent polishing down (to remove swirls from wool) should remove the rest. In regards to painting, if I am not mistaken it can be scuffed and then painted over. I have not tried this myself as of yet but I believe Kevin gave it a try. I will attempt this when time allows.



I am sure Dr. G will read this and perhaps look into your sticker suggestion.
 
wannafbody, Glare is NOT a glass coating. Don't confuse the "invented" Glassplexin vs. a SiO2 (aka glass) coating.



The Blue Coral Touchless attempt was truly a nightmare, there was a technical service bulletin on Autoint's site how to remove it. However, it was a COMPLETELY different technology.



I'm not an expert just because I've tried a couple of them and observed their exact behavior and performance. I'm monitoring my GTechniq C1 for the third year now and it's excellent. The Opti-Coat is also a genius of a product (2 years). My 3rd one is the Sonax Nano Lack Protect (aka Keepre Diamond; Japanese), and I got two other generations of AQuartz. Good comparative base IMO. Next one will be the G'Zox Real Glass Coat.



Why are they good? They last ages, protect extremely well, and they need very little maintenance. The cars are cleaner, significantly less sensitive to environmental impacts, bead spectacularly, you can clean them up with less effort, etc.



J, when you go over a coating with a compound, it will lose its fabulous beading and when you wipe the area down soaking with prep solvent and IPA, the water will pool on it. Decals are funny, I fondly remember the 1st gen AQuartz (Pomponazzi), because masking tape was unable to stick on the coated surface... YouTube - Pomponazzi tape test
 
Here I'm holding a piece of cured AQuartz, to show you that glass coatings are hard and can be thick!



aq1.jpg




aq2.jpg
 
I am so confused.



I just read all 23 pages of this thread, but I am still confused.



Does it take a lot of skill to apply OC?



Is it possible to remove it with just a paint cleaner by hand?



What do you have to do to get the car to stop beading?



Can you damage paint with it?



Can you just simply apply it with a foam applicator pad in the garage?



I am not sure If I can even get the product, but If I cannot strip the product off the surface then I dont know if I would be interested.



Where you can you prurchase it, link?



Thanks.
 
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