Wow – I step away from Autopia for a couple weeks and all hell breaks loose. Cool. :har: Welcome back SuperBee364 – Hope your winter was good. Nice to see you back and probing in on the relevant topics you’ve missed out on thus far.
SuperBee364 said:
There's gotta be quite a few peeps that have used Opti-coat now.
1. How did you feel it made the car look as far as gloss/depth/wetness go? A little bit glossier, but the gloss doesn’t fall off like standard LSPs. .
2. Was it really that hard to apply? The easiest LSP I’ve ever used. Borderline brainless actually.
3. What method did you use to apply it, hand or spray? Wipe on, lightly level with MF and walk away.
5. How long ago did you apply it, and how is it holding up? 6+ months and no different from day one.
6. How easily is it cleaned? Specifically, if there's bugs, tar, and even just ordinary every day dirt on it, how easily does it release these contaminants, ie, does it need a mitt, or could you just spray it off with a pressure washer? Hugh difference in cleaning soiling like brake dust, bugs, road film and tar. Most dirt and debris gets removed easilty by powerwashing (1700 psi). Any reminants easilty wipe away by the hand wash process. Like like the 1st time you was
wash your car after LSPing it. Kinda like your touchless regiment, but maybe better.
Opti-Coat has exceeded my expectations and imagination of how incredible a coating could be. I’m past the 6 month mark, my car has 20,000 miles and the coating is like the day I applied it. And, I’ve been washing with nothing but a strong mixture of Dawn dishwashing detergent that’s proven to remove ordinary waxes and paint sealants. Here’s a thread about my testing/review of this product:
http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-de...imum-opti-coating-durability-test-review.html
wannafbody said:
So if a car is coated with OptiCoat and is in an accident and needs a repaint the coating needs to be sanded or compounded off the entire car-good luck getting a body shop to do that. If this can't be painted over then the waiver is needed because your probably gonna be SOL. Once a body shop realizes that the car has a coating that can't come off they probably won't touch the car:sadpace:
Makes me glad I used Zaino on my Miata. It got repainted and my painter had no issues whatsoever.
This coating will have no affect on the repair/refinish process what so ever! Any time a vehicle is refinished, it’s prepped with heavy sandpaper (320 grit). This level of abrasion will easily eat through this coating. Letting or informing the shop of the coating will make ZERO difference in their workflow. It doesn’t create any adverse effect on refinishing.
wannafbody said:
Optimum isn't treating people like fools. They are protecting themselves from liability should an untrained person apply the product and mess up. It's a smart move on their part. If the product flashes too fast in hot humid weather then even application can be an issue. .
I used the coating this last weekend on a large project that was literally “on” the water, in 90+ humidity, 95 degrees and full sun without one streak or hiccup. Impressive!
wannafbody said:
Still, I'm skeptical that a product that can't be removed with a prep product is "safe" in the hands of an average american bodyshop. Maybe Germany has higher trained body shops due to more prevalent products of that nature.
Again, body shops sand a panel 1st and then use a prep solvent in the paint booth to remove oils prior to spraying. Coating will be long gone way before it hits the booth.
wannafbody said:
BTW, I've read a few posts on various automotive websites about bodyshops having issues painting over a few boutique and OTC waxes/sealants. I'm not sure what the root causes was/is but it is an issue that does occur and maybe it's because a body shop isn't using the right product to make sure the paint surface is clean.
Many times the reason why shops have problems is because they haven’t created a “sterile” surface or environment. It could be from external sources that are in the shop atmosphere or from cross-contaminating within their work. If there’s a fresh greasy wax or QD on the surface that gets embedded in their sandpaper, it could get grinded into the surface as it gets prepped. Opti-Coat won’t do this. It’s not a “wet” layer of silicone. It cures/hardens (like clearcoat) and won’t smear when removed like waxes. For example, when using alcohol when removing wax, you can actually displace it’s residue as you remove it and wipe onto other surfaces. When applying OC, you need to make sure to constantly rotate/switch out your towel so it doesn’t displace the oils trapped within.
wannafbody said:
Impressive, no doubt the product works. But for some reason DR G is concerned about some liability issue. What happens if the paint isn't properly prepped-will the coating not adhere properly?
Probably not as good as it could. Like all other LSPs, having a bare surface not only consummates the product to the surface cleaner, but creates it to stick and last longer. Like spraying paint on a surface that hasn’t been prep sanded.
wannafbody said:
Its one thing to use a coating on a car with clear coat failure to bump the resale value and it's another to use a product on a new $100k supercar and for some reason have an issue a few years down the road. Theoretically, what happens if ANY product is applied to a limited production car and then a couple years down the road the only local approved dealership refuses to touch the car or warranty the paint because someone applied a permanent coating to the vehicle. Buyer beware.
I’m pretty certain that this product has been tested and proven to not cause issues. Once a warranty is offered, it will offer a much longer term then the 1 year warranty OEM paint manufacturers offer. That’s why it’s imperative to apply this product to the best possible finish. Not a good idea to apply this product to a brand new vehicle that has acid rain issues. I have clients “sign off” after inspecting the surface(prior to coating) and it meets their approval. If anything OC will alleviate the potential for paint to fail with the factory warranty period.
wannafbody said:
I've seen people claim 9 or 10 months out of Zaino outside 24/7. There reaches a point where you have to ask how much durability does one need? After all, we've all seen the TV infomercials where the latest and greatest sealant was applied to a hood and then set on fire but really how many owners are gonna torch their cars:rofl
As one that actually likes, endorses and uses Zaino, I can honestly say that Opti-Coat blows Zaino out of the water in pretty much every category. It doesn’t even compare actually and is a much more versatile product. I’ve yet to see or hear anyone claim to have problems with OC to date. It’s the real deal and does everything it’s designed to do.
wannafbody said:
True, and that's all fine and good BUT wait until someone applies it to a new vehicle and the manufacturer voids the paint warranty. When Porsche and BMW start applying these type coatings on their cars at the factory and offer a 5 year warranty then I will probably change my mind.
Any detailer willing to shoulder the liability go ahead and use it to your hearts content. I can think of a couple potential applications for OptiCoat where it might prove to be beneficial.
Southeast Toyota actually applies their ToyoGuard at their Jacksonville, FL port prior to delivering brand new vehicles to dealerships. . I know this and most sealant contracts work together with the factory warranty and because of the short limited OEM paint warranty, they do nothing but extend the factory coverage parameters. Yes, Opti-Coat could revolutionize this sector of the industry IMHO.
wannafbody said:
If anyone puts anything permanent on paint then the manufacturer can void the paint warranty. The manufacturers void warranties on a regular basis when aftermarket parts are installed even thought it technically is illegal(Moss-Magnesson Act). They simply deny the claim-anyone who has been around GM forums is well aware of this occuring.
Good question. Every manufacturer handles warranty claims differently. Again, this goes back to making sure the surface if properly prepped prior to coating it. It needs to be inspected for acid rain, fallout, craters and any other problems that are covered under the 1 year paint warranty. If a surface is riddled with unrepairable acid rain craters, then this will qualify for refinishing that will void the warranty on the repainted panel anyways. If a problem does occur within the factory warranty term and is declined by the manufacturer without justification, I’d be willing to bet it could lead to the OC warranty to cover it (providing that one was initiated). Last I heard Dr. G was working on a third party warranty for people that are going mainstream with this product. Either that of the person applying the product will have to be self-insured. Most dealers require a warranty before doing business with these types of vendors/products.
wannafbody said:
Have any of those who've actually used Opticoat seen any documentation that shows that OptiCoat performs at a higher level than the clear coat on a vehicle as delivered by the manufacturer-or is all the hype about the product unfounded and undocumented?
Higher level? Totally! It cleans better, offers crazy beading, is more scratch resistant, is chemical and environmentally resistant, is clearer that clearcoat (not yellowed like clearcoat), doesn’t fade and can be applied to non-paintable surfaces like glass, textured plastic and chrome. No hype about that!
