M105 hits like a little girl...

vettekid said:
First you are going need persmission from the person that already has it as a trademark. good luck.





"No TESS records were found to match the criteria of your query."



Funny, the patent office doesn't show anyone holding trademarks for "Asphalt Rocket" yet.

:sign
 
JuneBug said:
Quote - However 105 will refine other compound swirls very nicely after using a different compound. I have done this numerous times and have never removed any clear at all neither. Megs makes it sound like a harsh compound, but is not at all. It is pretty safe stuff.



Ryan, what in your opinion is a strong compound?



I used a product called rapid cut today. Cuts out 1000 grit sand scratches. The only downside is that it leaves swirls like crazy. I applied via a megs double sied wool pad. I then followed it up with megs 105 via yellow lc ccs pad, and was blown away at the results. The 105 cleaned up the swirls nicely, leaving no trace of swirls at all. What really amazed me was the working time of the 105, average 3-4-mins per section. For me, the 105 didn't remove the deeper scratches, but it did clean up the swirls induced by the rapid cut. So yea I agree with you 100%, june bug, it does clean up other induced compound swirls very nicely!:xyxthumbs:xyxthumbs
 
rydawg said:
I love 3M Extra Cut compound 06060. It cuts perfect and just plain works. It does leave a somewhat hazy finish, but that is it's nature...it's a cutting compound.



There are a few new cutting compounds that Rick and I are currently trying out right now too.



Is that the 3000 line? The standard 3000 RC with 4 inch pads is pretty impressive.
 
EisenHulk said:
I've heard that as well. I've also heard it is very PC/DA friendly.



Comments?



Very PC friendly. I mist a Sonus yellow pad with some QD and work the 3000 RC in at speed 5 or 6. It will remove fingernail scratches and wash induced marring from GM paint and leave a pretty nice finish. I usually finish with ZPC or FP2.
 
Thanks for the feedback, Fbody. I have some sitting on my shelf that I've yet to try. I may have to break it out this weekend.





wannafbody said:
Very PC friendly. I mist a Sonus yellow pad with some QD and work the 3000 RC in at speed 5 or 6. It will remove fingernail scratches and wash induced marring from GM paint and leave a pretty nice finish. I usually finish with ZPC or FP2.
 
The PI-3000 RC's predecessor (PI-III RC 05933) is still one of my favorite medium-strong products for use by hand/PC/Cyclo (and it finishes out nicer than the PI-3000 for me, not that it really matters). I'd be a bit leery of using any of their Extra-Cut RCs that way though :think: Anybody tried it?
 
Accumulator said:
The PI-3000 RC's predecessor (PI-III RC 05933) is still one of my favorite medium-strong products for use by hand/PC/Cyclo (and it finishes out nicer than the PI-3000 for me, not that it really matters). I'd be a bit leery of using any of their Extra-Cut RCs that way though :think: Anybody tried it?



I never used the older PI3 line so I can't compare how they finish.
 
Just used M105 with a LC PFW and a Flex 3401 on my black 1993 Beretta. It removed spiderwebbing and swirls quickly but not RIDS. I had to make several passes to get a satisfactory result. M105 is either 1) not a coarse as indicated 2) just doesn't correct fast with a Flex 3) my CC is hard as hell 4) IDK *** I'm doing. :)



With the pad spritzed with DW, I'd get less than a minute worth of work time before it flashed. I'd spritz one more time and work it for another 20 sec or so, then buff. It finished down nice, but left scratches that would not catch a nail or barely would.
 
Thank you, sir. I appreciate the feedback.





Accumulator said:
The PI-3000 RC's predecessor (PI-III RC 05933) is still one of my favorite medium-strong products for use by hand/PC/Cyclo (and it finishes out nicer than the PI-3000 for me, not that it really matters). I'd be a bit leery of using any of their Extra-Cut RCs that way though :think: Anybody tried it?
 
Lots of good info here. I like it. Anyhow, I ordered some Presta Ultra as well. Should I consider any other wool pads? I think I have the whole Edge lineup, from black to finishing white, but if there is something better for cutting...
 
Black edge wool should cut like gangbusters with presta ultra. I've used it with LC twisted wool a few times and it cuts like crazy; tons of halograms but that's to be expected. Actually 105 cleans up after ultra really well, ironically. :)
 
Edge are great for cutting. If you want a great wool pad then get the black lambs wool from Micro-surface. It is the best wool pad I have ever tried. Does not lint at all neither. It's more of a polishing wool, but does cut very nicely. Works superb with 105 too.
 
Picus said:
Black edge wool should cut like gangbusters with presta ultra. I've used it with LC twisted wool a few times and it cuts like crazy; tons of halograms but that's to be expected. Actually 105 cleans up after ultra really well, ironically. :)



Ironically:doh



I agree, 105 does a great job of cleaning up after heavy coarse cutting.
 
Picus said:
Black edge wool should cut like gangbusters with presta ultra. I've used it with LC twisted wool a few times and it cuts like crazy; tons of halograms but that's to be expected. Actually 105 cleans up after ultra really well, ironically. :)



rydawg said:
Edge are great for cutting. If you want a great wool pad then get the black lambs wool from Micro-surface. It is the best wool pad I have ever tried. Does not lint at all neither. It's more of a polishing wool, but does cut very nicely. Works superb with 105 too.



Thanks guys. I'll have to look into that wool from Micro-surface. I really make a mess of the garage with the Edge wool.



I'm currently revisiting a 04 Corolla that was pretty much washed with a potato sack and some gravel, or maybe a giant brass brush. M105 is cleaning it up decently will an orange pad, except for several places like this. The paint seems quite soft...I can easily scratch it with the backside of my fingernail.



IMG_1813.jpg




M105 isn't take those out completely with a couple of applications and I cannot feel the scratches with my finger nail at all. However, I've never used a compound that leaves such a nice finish for the amount of cut if offers.
 
Just as a follow up. I compounded an 08 Subaru today with the deepest wash scratches I have ever seen. I started with 105 and Meg's 7006 cutting pad at 1000rpm with moderate pressure and slow arm speed. I tried it my typical way just doing 2 passes per application per section. About 30-40 seconds of buffing time. I then tried it for much longer. 4 passes, slower arm speed, moderate pressure and about 3-4 minutes of work time. Not quite to the point of dusting but long after it flashed and went clear. I stopped at one point about 2 minutes in and checked the section from different angles with my halogen. There was indeed still a film present.



Here is what I noticed working the product longer. It DID continue to cut after it went clear. It also left a small amount of halo's that where easily cleaned up with 80, 8006 pad, and DA for one pass. I sprayed the area with glass cleaner after the 80 to make sure it wasn't just filling the minor halo's the 105 left. The finish was just as glossy at both work times and no hazing was left either.



I also did a test spot with 105 on an 8006 at 1000rpms working for 4 minutes. This didn't remove the scratches completely but did leave a much nicer finish....just as you would expect. I wouldn't say that it is as pad dependent as something like SOLO but I also didn't find that it cut the same regardless of pad as some have stated.



I also did a couple test spots with 105 and the DA just for fun. Using a small amount of product I was able to work it as long as something like 83 on an 8006 pad. It wasn't even close to that same combo on the rotary though and did leave some haze that cleaned up easily with 80/DA.



On the new 2.0 Megs cutting pad it was a different story. That combo proved too aggressive for the machine with moderate pressure...so I had to use light pressure. What I ended up with was a hazy finish with less correction than the polishing pad on the DA. I Assume this is due to the lack of pressure just dragging the polish over the paint rather than having some weight for the polish to cut and level the paint.



YMMV
 
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