Finishing with a Rotary

TH0001 said:
The Lotus picture shows marring, period. I can see it (RIDS, SWIRLS, and IMO pad abrasions) and so can anybody who looks at it. In MY EXPERIENCE, this can be greatly reduced (with in reason, we cannot control how paint is washed after we are done) by taking the time (if it is avialable) with each step and trying not to skip a step if we can.



You are free to disagree with me, but you are getting personal, and this is a learning forum. I am just as open to learning from you as you seem to not learn from me. Please don't take this thread further off topic.
Click to expand...



I agree on both counts.. :nervous:



But can we please stay on topic as there's tons of very good information in here that I'd like to keep alive..



That being said, what do you guys think a good one stepper would be for the PC? I think we can all agree, now, that 106FF(FA) have filling capabilities, but what would a good all around one step be?
 
tdekany said:
I have a flex and I'd suggest to save your money.
Click to expand...



Any reason in particular?



The main thing I don't like about finishing with a DA buffer is the potential for micromarring but I have some customers who really don't care enough and often the rotary would mean two steps minimum instead of the 1 step they are willing to pay for. Hey, I'd love to do only full corrections but doing basic details as well keeps me busy every day. Rather have the constant income, amirite? :dance
 
mshu7 said:
+2



I went from PC to Cycle to UDM and tried to go to a rotary but just wasn't comfortable with it. I bought a Flex, used it a few times and then decided to just learn the rotary. Now, I really don't use my Flex. I sold my Cyclo and my UDM broke. Now, if I'm one-stepping (say Poli-Seal), I grab the PC. If I'm doing correction, I grab the rotary and finish with the PC. I'll probably end up selling the Flex that now I don't use it.
Click to expand...





The rotary is so much easier to control for me. That is my beef with it.
 
TH0001 said:
Hollogramming and pad abrasion mircomarring are slightly different effects. I have a hard time seeing the ultrafine pad abarasion on white (as well as very faint holograms). Those holograms where bad (which you can absolutely see on white)
Click to expand...



I put on my sunglasses to inspect light colored paint in the sun, definitely makes a difference, gets rid of the flaring you see around the sun spots.



I am sure you can see the improvement that #105 made compared to what the bodyshop did to the hood. Real shame since they did a great job laying down the paint.
 
Scottwax said:
Any reason in particular?



The main thing I don't like about finishing with a DA buffer is the potential for micromarring but I have some customers who really don't care enough and often the rotary would mean two steps minimum instead of the 1 step they are willing to pay for. Hey, I'd love to do only full corrections but doing basic details as well keeps me busy every day. Rather have the constant income, amirite? :dance
Click to expand...





There is a trick that body shop guys have used in the past or may even do it nowadays.



Start with the pc and and finish with the rotary. Meaning instead of wiping off the polish after using the pc, continue buffing with the rotary to finish.



PS: I don't just do paint corrections either. I know what you mean.
 
tdekany said:
The rotary is so much easier to control for me. That is my beef with it.
Click to expand...



I completely agree! That is why after using the Flex a few times, I decided to learn the rotary (again). Now that I am comfortable with a rotary, using the Flex just irritates me, which is why I either go PC or rotary now.
 
Scottwax said:
Any reason in particular?



The main thing I don't like about finishing with a DA buffer is the potential for micromarring but I have some customers who really don't care enough and often the rotary would mean two steps minimum instead of the 1 step they are willing to pay for. Hey, I'd love to do only full corrections but doing basic details as well keeps me busy every day. Rather have the constant income, amirite? :dance
Click to expand...



Scott do you find it takes longer to do two steps with a rotary vs. one step with a PC?
 
d00t said:
I agree on both counts.. :nervous:



But can we please stay on topic as there's tons of very good information in here that I'd like to keep alive..



That being said, what do you guys think a good one stepper would be for the PC? I think we can all agree, now, that 106FF(FA) have filling capabilities, but what would a good all around one step be?
Click to expand...





To do what?
 
d00t said:
That being said, what do you guys think a good one stepper would be for the PC? I think we can all agree, now, that 106FF(FA) have filling capabilities, but what would a good all around one step be?
Click to expand...



I think it depends on the users abilities, type/ condition of paint, machine being used, etc. I definitely wouldnt use anything stronger then SIP/ CSS white or gray. I havent used SIP with gray so Im not sure how it performs. But Id also make sure the customer knows the amount of correction will definitely be pretty limited as well as final gloss. To be honest, I dont do 1 steps. But I also dont do this for a living.



Scottwax said:
I put on my sunglasses to inspect light colored paint in the sun, definitely makes a difference, gets rid of the flaring you see around the sun spots.
Click to expand...



Thats a great idea. Polarized glasses are great for seeing fish too!



mshu7 said:
I completely agree! That is why after using the Flex a few times, I decided to learn the rotary (again). Now that I am comfortable with a rotary, using the Flex just irritates me, which is why I either go PC or rotary now.
Click to expand...



Dont own a Flex, never will. But Im curious, why do you feel the Flex is harder to use then a rotary?
 
tdekany said:
There is a trick that body shop guys have used in the past or may even do it nowadays.



Start with the pc and and finish with the rotary. Meaning instead of wiping off the polish after using the pc, continue buffing with the rotary to finish.



PS: I don't just do paint corrections either. I know what you mean.
Click to expand...



Wierd. I have started with a rotary and finished with PC (same product) but it would seem backwards to go the other way, no?
 
tdekany said:
There is a trick that body shop guys have used in the past or may even do it nowadays.



Start with the pc and and finish with the rotary. Meaning instead of wiping off the polish after using the pc, continue buffing with the rotary to finish.
Click to expand...



I actually did something like that with a black truck the customer already tried to buff. I wasn't sure how much clear he may have removed from his repaint so I used Optimum Compound via PC and finished with Ultrafina. Turned out great. :)
 
D&D Auto Detail said:
Dont own a Flex, never will. But Im curious, why do you feel the Flex is harder to use then a rotary?
Click to expand...



Well, now that I know how (I'm not expert though) to use a rotary, the Flex is harder to handle. Between a PC, Flex, and my Makita, the Flex is definitely the hardest to control.
 
Scottwax said:
I actually did something like that with a black truck the customer already tried to buff. I wasn't sure how much clear he may have removed from his repaint so I used Optimum Compound via PC and finished with Ultrafina. Turned out great. :)
Click to expand...





I meant to continue polishing with the rotary the same polish.
 
mshu7 said:
Well, now that I know how (I'm not expert though) to use a rotary, the Flex is harder to handle. Between a PC, Flex, and my Makita, the Flex is definitely the hardest to control.
Click to expand...



Because of the shape, vibrations, or something else?
 
TH0001 said:
Scott do you find it takes longer to do two steps with a rotary vs. one step with a PC?
Click to expand...



Since I *have* to tape off the car when using a rotary, it absolutely takes me longer. Not to mention two polishing steps vs one. Even though the rotary corrects faster, twice around the car is going to take longer.



When doing 1 polishing step with the PC, I do make the customer aware that the deeper defects will remain that a two step process with the rotary will probably remove. Kind of hard to convince a soccer mom whose kids are going to trash out the Suburban within a few weeks to really care all that much beyond just having shiny paint.
 
TH0001 said:
The Lotus picture shows marring, period. I can see it (RIDS, SWIRLS, and IMO pad abrasions) and so can anybody who looks at it.
Click to expand...





While I don't have the type of clients that you do, no car leaves with "RIDS, SWIRLS, and IMO pad abrasions" (as you so nicely put it) that I work on. Period!!!



Where do you see RIDS?????:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top