Finishing with a Rotary

D&D Auto Detail said:
I dont see any marring in that picture?



What you see is the actually "rays" from the lense, the same as in Thomas other picture (blue car). However it looks completely different then the obvious marring in the Lotus.



This thread has gone downhill and instead of becoming a learning experience has become somebody who has to defend themselves and limits their growth, period. My view might be different then Thomas but I am open to learning and he is not. Infact he keeps insulting me (saying I think I am the best) but to ignore the prospect of improvement says more about his character then mine. I'm not the one who is above the advice of others...
 
TH0001 said:
What you see is the actually "rays" from the lense, the same as in Thomas other picture (blue car). However it looks completely different then the obvious marring in the Lotus.



Yep, exactly. That definitely is not marring.
 
FWIW, I pmed Thomas last night and told him that I removed all of my posts because I didn't want to take this thread off topic and I respect his skills. He never responded. Since this thread is about finishing a paint job correctly, I wanted to use his obvious example as a learning experience but told him I understood if he took it personal, as was not my intent.



It is clear his intent was soley to "strike back" and bring things into this thread that are not releavent. BTW, there is a little brake dust around the bolt on the caliper (which is gone in the next picture of the same caliper) but he is correct. I did post a picture before I q-tipped it (and one after) but I am not sure what that has to do with high level polishing?
 
wow... Just reading this and ..wow.... I think both guys do their customers very well with the services provided. I don't see the point in slamming each other. And in this case I would actually tend to side with th0001. Which is unusual for me because I'm really not fond of the elitest on these boards always downing others. But in this case it was clearly pointed out for learning experience only and not some sort of slam fest. Both of you guys do absoultly amazing work. Both of you guys know it and don't need to be told you do. To be bickering like this is actually a bummer for me. neither of you guys should have to defend anything you guys have done and showed us. While it's not my style at all of detailing I always look forward to the new set of pics of the ultra eliete cars that get done. It's pure artwork you guys do. And for people that only want pure artwork gracing their driveways. Let's put aside the silly bickering fights and get back to creating amazing works of art ok?? :D
 
...and there goes another thread. I've had quite a few conversations with people about replying to threads when you're heated. The best answer is to leave it alone and come back when you can reply is a more level-headed manner, or not at all. I personally am sick of threads like these (informative ones) degrading into personal attacks. Digging up old pictures and posts to make a point? Come on guys, grow up.



On topic: on the subject of one polishing step, there was a long thread about that recently and there were good opinions on both sides of the debate. I think in the end a lot of what we're talking about relies heavily on understanding the other person and their experience, which is tough on forums. For me, I *will* one step polish a car with a rotary, but only under a few circumstances, as in, the car is in good enough shape the polishing is just to bring back some gloss (not to remove imperfections), or if it is to remove imperfections with the understanding (of the customer) that the car will not be 100% or even 90% corrected, but that the paint will look better. In some cases that is all someone wants; for example I am working on a GX470 right now that needs some good correction, but the owner just wants the paint cleaned up, to look more black again. His wife drives the truck so 95%+ correction would be wasted on it. I'm using 1Z high gloss polish on a grey LC pad and it's only correcting very minor swirls, but it is bringing back a lot of the "blackness" of the paint, which is all he wanted.
 
Picus said:
I'm using 1Z high gloss polish on a grey LC pad and it's only correcting very minor swirls, but it is bringing back a lot of the "blackness" of the paint, which is all he wanted.



1Z High Gloss Polish is an excellent choice for a one-step on hard paint. I use either FP or IP for a single step on soft paint. IP is probably the better choice for hammered paint.
 
Threads like this can be very informative if they don't end up locked down and in the basement. Please stop the bickering and lets keep it going.:)
 
SpoiledMan said:
Threads like this can be very informative if they don't end up locked down and in the basement. Please stop the bickering and lets keep it going.:)



Indeed. I actually find I get quite a bit more correction out of 1Z HGP than FP. It's still only for light marring but I find it's cut is between a finishing polish and a medium polish.
 
Accumulator said:
I



OK...returning to the real topic at hand, I've heard about paints that are *so* soft that they can only be finish-polished via rotary (wielded by somebody who's *VERY* skilled, of course) as the PC leaves micromarring. Presumably this comes from the initial bite of the product combined with the PC's particular pad motions.



Black G35s, Porsches and 335s are notorious for that. Sure, the PC means no holograms but micromarring and hazing look bad too.



What about the *Cyclo* for jobs like that? I've simply *never* experienced any downside to finishing via Cyclo, it doesn't diminish the previously attained rotary-finished gloss or otherwise cause any problems. I dunno if anybody really *uses* the Cyclo any more (I think Anthony O. still does :think: ) but I'm curious.



I was getting micromarring with the Cyclo using white pads on the above mentioned vehicles. Soft paint is just tough to finish out regardless of machine.
 
I don't know how anyone could finish clean on a soft black 335/328 coupe with a PC. I am sure it can be done, but not by me. Even with the rotary it takes a lot of time and finesse.
 
Picus said:
I don't know how anyone could finish clean on a soft black 335/328 coupe with a PC. I am sure it can be done, but not by me. Even with the rotary it takes a lot of time and finesse.



Finishing one of those cars with a rotary takes as much time as compounding and medium polishing combined and maybe more. It's not an easy job as it takes a lot of concentration. Bring a lunch for sure and maybe dinner as well.:cooleek:
 
SpoiledMan said:
Finishing one of those cars with a rotary takes as much time as compounding and medium polishing combined and maybe more. It's not an easy job as it takes a lot of concentration. Bring a lunch for sure and maybe dinner as well.:cooleek:



Amen to that. A beer or two might help, too. :D
 
When you guys talk about one step are you referring to a polish like IP (jsut for example) or are you talking more of the lines of an AIO? Im still using only a PC and hope to move on up to a rotary. Can I use the PC efficiently with a polish like IP and get the paint (not the super soft paint as mentioned) LSP ready in just one step? I have used only 1 AIO so far and that was D151 last weekend on my sisters white mazda 6. to me it looked gret, swirls where gone and did not notice any holograms a few deeper scratches were still there but that was about it.
 
sal329 said:
When you guys talk about one step are you referring to a polish like IP (jsut for example) or are you talking more of the lines of an AIO? Im still using only a PC and hope to move on up to a rotary. Can I use the PC efficiently with a polish like IP and get the paint (not the super soft paint as mentioned) LSP ready in just one step? I have used only 1 AIO so far and that was D151 last weekend on my sisters white mazda 6. to me it looked gret, swirls where gone and did not notice any holograms a few deeper scratches were still there but that was about it.



I think we're (well I am) talking about doing some actual correction, however light. In some cases it might just be AIO, but generally I am using high gloss polish, FPII, 8rd, etc to remove super, super fine swirls and generally bring back gloss. I wouldn't one step with IP, or SIP even on really hard paint. I am sure it can be done, but I think the time you spend finessing them would just equal the same time as doing one SIP/IP step then one FPII/8rd step.



I haven't used D151, it looks promising.



With the PC I am sure it is possible to do like IP on a white polishing pad on hard paint and be LSP ready. I'm anal enough that odds are I'd still follow with FPII.
 
For those of you seeing micro-marring with a PC, have you tried a stronger DA machine like the Makita BO6040 or similar? Do you have any pics of the micro-marring? Also is the micro-marring being caused by finishing polishes?



I finish off nearly every car with the BO6040/white LC pad/Menz FPII combo and haven't noticed any micromarring. Perhaps i'm just missing it....
 
MichaelM said:
For those of you seeing micro-marring with a PC, have you tried a stronger DA machine like the Makita BO6040 or similar? Do you have any pics of the micro-marring? Also is the micro-marring being caused by finishing polishes?



I finish off nearly every car with the BO6040/white LC pad/Menz FPII combo and haven't noticed any micromarring. Perhaps i'm just missing it....



I can tell you that with both the PC and UDM, a white LC CCS pad and FPII/106ff will NOT finish out micromar free on soft black paint (PITA BMW black). It looks great at first and even after an IPA wipe, but after the first few washes micromarring will be readily apparant. It's wierd, because the LSP on top will be in great shape, but the oils/lubes from the Menz polish underneath sorta evaporate from the paint and you are left with pad abrasions and micromarring.



Note that this is on finiky soft black, on some other blacks I have not seen marring return using a nearly identical process.



Regardless, I ordered a 9227c so I won't have this issue. I figure if I can learn to finish out clean on the God-awful BMW black with a rotary, I can finish out on anything. :D
 
In addition, with an orbital, a finishing pad really doesn't have the ability to break down the abrasives properly (IME), so you are pretty much SOL if the white pad and finishing polish doesn't finish down well.
 
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