Using M105 for the first time today

[superchargedg]

Oh man... making this type of post can blow up into a flame war so fast, I'm very hesitant to do it, but I kinda think that there's more to be gained even if it does turn into a flame war....



I gotta start by saying that I am, by no means, a pro detailer. I'd bet that the majority of you guys can put out far better work than I can, and are better at using the rotary than I am.



As I've said before, everything I know about detailing, I learned from this site. If I come across as a know-it-all, I'm sorry. I don't *know* much, but I'm very good at reciting the things that other people from this site have taught me.



Now having said all that, there are a great many people around here (myself included) that are researching how to properly use M105. Just this morning, I was combing youtube looking for as much additional info on this stuff as I can. I came across this video...YouTube - Meguiar's #105 by Rotary I *hate* to judge other people, but in this case I think it warrants some discussion. This guy was *VERY* lucky that he didn't take that paint clean off the vehicle. *EVERYTHING* he does is dangerous, regardless of the fact that he's using M105. Using M105 makes it even *more* dangerous than he already is. Not only does he work the M105 passed the flash over point, he works it til it's completely dusted itself off the car, leaving no residue at all behind. Guys, this is *dangerous*. PLEASE don't take this video as a good way to operate a rotary buffer, and *especially* not the way to use M105. The only reason I'm risking the video's author taking offense to this (and I am truly sorry if you do) is because of the high risk of someone following this technique and damaging their own (or God forbid someone elses) car.



I don't want to just post "don't do it this way" videos, so I'm going to try and find some good ones, as well. Maybe you guys could post some links to some helpful videos, too...



Once again, I am truly sorry if the author and/or rotary operator take offense to this post. It's not my intention to offend, but just to inform.

Thanks to you and others i am going to try out my rotary and m105 very soon.The flex that i have is real nice but i need a faster and more efficient way of detailing my car.I only do mine and maybe a few freinds cars and thats it and as i only do this as a hobby i want the fastest and best way to do this.

I have had good experience with the pc and much better with the flex but i need to try the rotary and i think the m105 is the perfect product for me.

 

[cobrar97]

Thanks to SuperBee, I order some M105 and it arrived today. My next detail job is a badly swirled BLACK (that's actually dark metallic blue) Acura TL. Has anyone used the M105 on any of the Honda-soft paints? Asuming the correct pad, no more than 10 secs of use, and everything else I've gained from this article, will the M105 still work on the soft paint? Of course an Ultrafina followup will occur.

 

[Alfisti]

Thanks to you and others i am going to try out my rotary and m105 very soon.The flex that i have is real nice but i need a faster and more efficient way of detailing my car.I only do mine and maybe a few freinds cars and thats it and as i only do this as a hobby i want the fastest and best way to do this.

I have had good experience with the pc and much better with the flex but i need to try the rotary and i think the m105 is the perfect product for me.

While not designed for PC, a few guys over on MOL have had good success with M105 and PC/Flex.



I'd imagine it would be safer, even if a bit slower. :nixweiss



Testing out the new FLEX on my girls '04 Accord - Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online



TO flex or not to flex that is the question - Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online



G110 + 105 + + 21 2.0 + Black Car = Show Car Finish - Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online

 

[imported_Denzil]

Thanks to SuperBee, I order some M105 and it arrived today. My next detail job is a badly swirled BLACK (that's actually dark metallic blue) Acura TL. Has anyone used the M105 on any of the Honda-soft paints? Asuming the correct pad, no more than 10 secs of use, and everything else I've gained from this article, will the M105 still work on the soft paint? Of course an Ultrafina followup will occur.

I've never used M105 on my car yet but I get an eerie feeling that it won't be a good experience. Honda/Acura paint may be too soft for this sort of compound and you may end up removing WAY more clearcoat then you're expecting.



I would stick to something like the LC PFW and SIP. Judging from my experiences with SIP, it should be able to tackle most, if not all, soft paints.

 

[Rob Tomlin]

I've never used M105 on my car yet but I get an eerie feeling that it won't be a good experience. Honda/Acura paint may be too soft for this sort of compound and you may end up removing WAY more clearcoat then you're expecting.



I would stick to something like the LC PFW and SIP. Judging from my experiences with SIP, it should be able to tackle most, if not all, soft paints.

Yes, at the very least he should start with the SIP and see if he can get adequate correction with that.



Least aggressive method first.:rules:

 

[TSC17]

Thanks to SuperBee, I order some M105 and it arrived today. My next detail job is a badly swirled BLACK (that's actually dark metallic blue) Acura TL. Has anyone used the M105 on any of the Honda-soft paints? Asuming the correct pad, no more than 10 secs of use, and everything else I've gained from this article, will the M105 still work on the soft paint? Of course an Ultrafina followup will occur.

Hey cobrar97...I'm originally from Marion! As a matter of fact I'll be there today for a graduation party.



Anyhow...



I own a NBP TL, and I'd only go for the 105 on it after other products had failed to remove the defects. What other products do you have to try on it first? Are you using a rotary or a PC? Even if they're pretty heavy, a medium cut product (SIP, 83, etc) should be able to correct them, even with a PC.

 

[gmblack3]

Oh man... making this type of post can blow up into a flame war so fast, I'm very hesitant to do it, but I kinda think that there's more to be gained even if it does turn into a flame war....



I gotta start by saying that I am, by no means, a pro detailer. I'd bet that the majority of you guys can put out far better work than I can, and are better at using the rotary than I am.



As I've said before, everything I know about detailing, I learned from this site. If I come across as a know-it-all, I'm sorry. I don't *know* much, but I'm very good at reciting the things that other people from this site have taught me.



Now having said all that, there are a great many people around here (myself included) that are researching how to properly use M105. Just this morning, I was combing youtube looking for as much additional info on this stuff as I can. I came across this video...YouTube - Meguiar's #105 by Rotary I *hate* to judge other people, but in this case I think it warrants some discussion. This guy was *VERY* lucky that he didn't take that paint clean off the vehicle. *EVERYTHING* he does is dangerous, regardless of the fact that he's using M105. Using M105 makes it even *more* dangerous than he already is. Not only does he work the M105 passed the flash over point, he works it til it's completely dusted itself off the car, leaving no residue at all behind. Guys, this is *dangerous*. PLEASE don't take this video as a good way to operate a rotary buffer, and *especially* not the way to use M105. The only reason I'm risking the video's author taking offense to this (and I am truly sorry if you do) is because of the high risk of someone following this technique and damaging their own (or God forbid someone elses) car.



I don't want to just post "don't do it this way" videos, so I'm going to try and find some good ones, as well. Maybe you guys could post some links to some helpful videos, too...



Once again, I am truly sorry if the author and/or rotary operator take offense to this post. It's not my intention to offend, but just to inform.

Ive seen his videos and cannot stand them. His technique scares me.

IMO you guys are overreacting. If he held the pad in one place for 60/90 seconds or more he might have a chance of burning thru the clear. If someone burns thru the clear or paint, its because they did not keep the rotary moving. I am not suggesting that a novice with a rotary use M105 or any compound untill you are fully aware of how a rotary works. Start out with a finishing polish and a finish pad at about 1200.

 

[cobrar97]

I'm using a rotary, and I do have SIP and 106FF I can try first. And I'll defiantely do that before any 105. I just know that this black Acura is TRASHED.



I'd just like to hear from someone that's actually used M105 on Honda paint.



-=Shout-out to Todd from Marion=-

 

[qwertydude]

I've used m105 on a 98 civic and a 2005 accord. Although I only used a coleman random orbit. Great results. After the M105 flashes off I just spray some distilled water onto the paint and go over it again. It seems to rejuvenate the broken down polish and you're left with a better finish than just going over it once. Oh and it's a strong compound so don't press down hard. I made that mistake while using it by hand on door handle indents to remove marks and it made some deeper marks that I had to go over with a finer polish. But if you just want fast this is the polish to use. I literally did the hood in like 10 minutes and for daily drivers I'd say using my water trick it was LSP ready. Not perfect but rarely do people ask for perfection, especially after they hear your price quote or how long it takes. Especially the majority of the people's cars I detail are daily drivers that got beat to hell and just wanna make it shine again.

 

[Kevin Brown]

Enjoying the chat about M105...! :woohoo:



It's a wonderful product.

 

[SiegeX]

IMO you guys are overreacting. If he held the pad in one place for 60/90 seconds or more he might have a chance of burning thru the clear. If someone burns thru the clear or paint, its because they did not keep the rotary moving. I am not suggesting that a novice with a rotary use M105 or any compound untill you are fully aware of how a rotary works. Start out with a finishing polish and a finish pad at about 1200.

Let me preface this by saying I've only ever done one machine polish, and it was via a DA. However, I feel you might be right after seeing this youtube video of some Swissvax guys purposely seeing what it takes to burn through the clear. Now I understand that certain paints are softer than others but in this video it appears that to burn through a flat panel you pretty much have to have that as your only goal. Perhaps burning through paint with a rotary is one of those truths that might have got blown out of proportion over the years?



On the other hand, I mostly hear cautions of burning through clear with a rotary in reference to corners & angles, not flat panels. This would make sense as a corners would have a smaller surface area that would hinder heat dissipation.

 

[Lumadar]

when u guys meant M105 compounding to almost LSP ready do u mean it by



1)Wool with M105 = Almost LSP ready



or



2)Wool with M105 + Foam (LC white) with M105 = Almost LSP ready?

I think they were referring to PFW + 105. M105 has micro non-diminishing abrassives, and PFW is notorious for being a GREAt finishing cutting pad. So, a lot of people (myself included) to go straight from M105/PFw to a fine polish and a "white" pad to LSP.

 

[Bioman]

What kind of success are you guys having with M105 and a PC?



Is ADS the cheapest place to pick some up?

 

[Accumulator]

What kind of success are you guys having with M105 and a PC?

So far (only tried it twice), I've had great success with it both via PC and by hand (both times I was working on quite hard clear). I *would* recommend 4" pads by PC though, same as with all serious correction.

 

[Deisel Weisel]

How much time can M105 save?



Compared to other conventional compounds, that 105 now out performs on speed. How much time do you save overall, for the amount of correction 105 can achieve?



I want to get into selling cars and using detailing techniques for getting those cars into showroom condition, but I really don’t fancy putting 5-10 hours of polishing time into each car, especially as initially they’ll be cheap’ish cars.



I’m a complete newbie when it comes to machine polishing, but plan on getting a rotary, but I’ve heard the best polishes/compounds for a newbie are those with long working times, so is M105 a good idea for me? (I will be getting a PTG).

 

[imported_RZJZA80]

I'll be getting some 105 to try with my PC, does it matter if the car has one stage paint? Also, what's the best thing to use to follow up after 105?

 

[SuperBee364]

How much time can M105 save?



Compared to other conventional compounds, that 105 now out performs on speed. How much time do you save overall, for the amount of correction 105 can achieve?



I want to get into selling cars and using detailing techniques for getting those cars into showroom condition, but I really don’t fancy putting 5-10 hours of polishing time into each car, especially as initially they’ll be cheap’ish cars.



I’m a complete newbie when it comes to machine polishing, but plan on getting a rotary, but I’ve heard the best polishes/compounds for a newbie are those with long working times, so is M105 a good idea for me? (I will be getting a PTG).

Using 105, a single-application compounding takes me *less than half* the amount of time as it would if I was using a traditional compound.

I'll be getting some 105 to try with my PC, does it matter if the car has one stage paint? Also, what's the best thing to use to follow up after 105?

I've never used 105 on single stage paint, but I would imagine it would work great on it. As to what to follow it with... that's not a really easy question to answer; it depends on the hardness of the paint, etc.

 

[Jason M]

From all reports M205 is the best follow up to 105. ADS and Autogeek both have it in stock last I checked.

 

[Lumadar]

Sometimes I follow M105 with M86, sometimes M82, sometimes nothing (gasp!).



On white single stage paint I was able to finish out 100% hologram free and LSP ready with a rotary. Obviously, car to car you will get variance so you might have the same outcome.



Typically, though, using M105 saves considerable time by increasing the amount of cut per pass, and also reducing the amount of steps that need to follow in order to get LSP ready.



Old compounds typically required a 3 step for a full detail, where as for most jobs you can get away with a 2 step with M105 instead.

 

[imported_bored7one4]

Oh man... making this type of post can blow up into a flame war so fast, I'm very hesitant to do it, but I kinda think that there's more to be gained even if it does turn into a flame war....



I gotta start by saying that I am, by no means, a pro detailer. I'd bet that the majority of you guys can put out far better work than I can, and are better at using the rotary than I am.



As I've said before, everything I know about detailing, I learned from this site. If I come across as a know-it-all, I'm sorry. I don't *know* much, but I'm very good at reciting the things that other people from this site have taught me.



Now having said all that, there are a great many people around here (myself included) that are researching how to properly use M105. Just this morning, I was combing youtube looking for as much additional info on this stuff as I can. I came across this video...YouTube - Meguiar's #105 by Rotary I *hate* to judge other people, but in this case I think it warrants some discussion. This guy was *VERY* lucky that he didn't take that paint clean off the vehicle. *EVERYTHING* he does is dangerous, regardless of the fact that he's using M105. Using M105 makes it even *more* dangerous than he already is. Not only does he work the M105 passed the flash over point, he works it til it's completely dusted itself off the car, leaving no residue at all behind. Guys, this is *dangerous*. PLEASE don't take this video as a good way to operate a rotary buffer, and *especially* not the way to use M105. The only reason I'm risking the video's author taking offense to this (and I am truly sorry if you do) is because of the high risk of someone following this technique and damaging their own (or God forbid someone elses) car.



I don't want to just post "don't do it this way" videos, so I'm going to try and find some good ones, as well. Maybe you guys could post some links to some helpful videos, too...



Once again, I am truly sorry if the author and/or rotary operator take offense to this post. It's not my intention to offend, but just to inform.

I'm not sure if this question been ask already but can someone make a video of the proper way to apply and work M105 on a car. I'm reading all this great info on M105 and taking notes since my first experience was not so good with it but I am like most people are a better visual learner.



Thanks to all the member that contribute to this thread !!!