Using M105 for the first time today

LOL, if you were to high-jack my front porch today, you'd make quite a haul. I sent the wife out shopping so she wouldn't be here when UPS came. :D
 
Ugh. I need to try my PFW, but then I need to try my Yellow/Green/Blue and UF White Edge pads too.



Maybe I'll hack away at my fiancee's Mazda with a green/blue wool and M105 and use some of my Menz FP with the white wool to finish it out.





Which reminds me. How do you folks handle A/B/C pillars with 6" or bigger pads? With a D.A I didn't worry about pad lift/uneven pads but with Rotary of course there is reason for concern.
 
Is M80 enough to finish off after 105? I was having problems getting the finish I wanted after 105.. I got rid of all the holograms, but even with the Edge double sided blue pad and AutoMagic BC2 I couldn't get the surface to clear up completely. I picked up the white edge finishing pad and I am going to tackle it again. Car is an 02 VW Jetta.
 
Mindflux said:
Ugh. I need to try my PFW, but then I need to try my Yellow/Green/Blue and UF White Edge pads too.



Maybe I'll hack away at my fiancee's Mazda with a green/blue wool and M105 and use some of my Menz FP with the white wool to finish it out.





Which reminds me. How do you folks handle A/B/C pillars with 6" or bigger pads? With a D.A I didn't worry about pad lift/uneven pads but with Rotary of course there is reason for concern.
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I don't. I use four inchers for the tight spots. Sometimes I'll use the 7.5" LC CCS mushroom shaped pads for the really tight areas. Ya gotta tilt (so the hologram potential is there, as is damaging the surface) to do it, though.
 
StealthMode said:
Is M80 enough to finish off after 105? I was having problems getting the finish I wanted after 105.. I got rid of all the holograms, but even with the Edge double sided blue pad and AutoMagic BC2 I couldn't get the surface to clear up completely. I picked up the white edge finishing pad and I am going to tackle it again. Car is an 02 VW Jetta.
Click to expand...



I've never used M80 before... anyone??
 
I have a local supplier that carries 3M and Meguiars, I just need a good final polish that will pull out any haze and make the finsh as clear as I can get it. :)
 
I just saw this Meguiars video using 105. I couldnt hear what was being said, cause the computer im on does not have speakers. I realize the severity of the spot hes doing, but it sure looks like alot of product. Alot more than I've been using, and what has been mentioned here. Is this just becuase of the spot he's doing?



YouTube - Ultra-Cut Compound 105 in Action
 
DinoV said:
I just saw this Meguiars video using 105. I couldnt hear what was being said, cause the computer im on does not have speakers. I realize the severity of the spot hes doing, but it sure looks like alot of product. Alot more than I've been using, and what has been mentioned here. Is this just becuase of the spot he's doing?



YouTube - Ultra-Cut Compound 105 in Action
Click to expand...



Good question. Anyone? Is this too much product?
 
The pad that he was using is an eight incher, and it's got a very deep pile to it. It's Meguair's most agressive wool compounding pad. It's capable of holding *alot* of polish, and this was the first polish application with that pad (he was "priming" it). Otherwise, that would be a huge amount of polish. With the 6.5" LC PFW, it only takes four pea sized amounts per application. Although as others have pointed out, it is easier to pick it up off the paint than apply it to the pad.



Another interesting tid bit from that video: he worked the polish for *nine seconds*. That seems pretty comparable to how long most people have been able to work it without cutting it with another compound/polish.
 
Thanks SuperBee for the explanation. That is a huge pad. So as far as using a 6.5 LC PFW, would you use about half of what he used at first to prime?
 
Try it both ways, Rob, and see what works best for you. There are some guys that like to apply it to the pad first. I tried both, and picking it up off the paint works better for me. For every polish except 105, I put it on the pad first and pre-spread it around on the area to be polished.



It's kinda hard to describe the maneuver... Tilt the pad slightly, and start spinning it up to speed as you cover the polish stripe with the pad. As you apply the pad to the paint, do a small circlular action to make sure you get the polish spread throughout the pad surface. You don't want to have pad against paint without having a film of polish under it if you can help it. Then move the pad through the area to be polished.. so you're spreading and polishing at the same time.
 
when u guys meant M105 compounding to almost LSP ready do u mean it by



1)Wool with M105 = Almost LSP ready



or



2)Wool with M105 + Foam (LC white) with M105 = Almost LSP ready?
 
SuperBee364 said:
Try it both ways, Rob, and see what works best for you. There are some guys that like to apply it to the pad first. I tried both, and picking it up off the paint works better for me. For every polish except 105, I put it on the pad first and pre-spread it around on the area to be polished.



It's kinda hard to describe the maneuver... Tilt the pad slightly, and start spinning it up to speed as you cover the polish stripe with the pad. As you apply the pad to the paint, do a small circlular action to make sure you get the polish spread throughout the pad surface. You don't want to have pad against paint without having a film of polish under it if you can help it. Then move the pad through the area to be polished.. so you're spreading and polishing at the same time.
Click to expand...



Yep, I will try both. I generally prefer putting the polish on the pad, but I certainly haven't come to any final conclusion on which is the better method, especially with the PFW.
 
Oh man... making this type of post can blow up into a flame war so fast, I'm very hesitant to do it, but I kinda think that there's more to be gained even if it does turn into a flame war....



I gotta start by saying that I am, by no means, a pro detailer. I'd bet that the majority of you guys can put out far better work than I can, and are better at using the rotary than I am.



As I've said before, everything I know about detailing, I learned from this site. If I come across as a know-it-all, I'm sorry. I don't *know* much, but I'm very good at reciting the things that other people from this site have taught me.



Now having said all that, there are a great many people around here (myself included) that are researching how to properly use M105. Just this morning, I was combing youtube looking for as much additional info on this stuff as I can. I came across this video...YouTube - Meguiar's #105 by Rotary I *hate* to judge other people, but in this case I think it warrants some discussion. This guy was *VERY* lucky that he didn't take that paint clean off the vehicle. *EVERYTHING* he does is dangerous, regardless of the fact that he's using M105. Using M105 makes it even *more* dangerous than he already is. Not only does he work the M105 passed the flash over point, he works it til it's completely dusted itself off the car, leaving no residue at all behind. Guys, this is *dangerous*. PLEASE don't take this video as a good way to operate a rotary buffer, and *especially* not the way to use M105. The only reason I'm risking the video's author taking offense to this (and I am truly sorry if you do) is because of the high risk of someone following this technique and damaging their own (or God forbid someone elses) car.



I don't want to just post "don't do it this way" videos, so I'm going to try and find some good ones, as well. Maybe you guys could post some links to some helpful videos, too...



Once again, I am truly sorry if the author and/or rotary operator take offense to this post. It's not my intention to offend, but just to inform.
 
SuperBee364 said:
Oh man... making this type of post can blow up into a flame war so fast, I'm very hesitant to do it, but I kinda think that there's more to be gained even if it does turn into a flame war....



I gotta start by saying that I am, by no means, a pro detailer. I'd bet that the majority of you guys can put out far better work than I can, and are better at using the rotary than I am.



As I've said before, everything I know about detailing, I learned from this site. If I come across as a know-it-all, I'm sorry. I don't *know* much, but I'm very good at reciting the things that other people from this site have taught me.



Now having said all that, there are a great many people around here (myself included) that are researching how to properly use M105. Just this morning, I was combing youtube looking for as much additional info on this stuff as I can. I came across this video...YouTube - Meguiar's #105 by Rotary I *hate* to judge other people, but in this case I think it warrants some discussion. This guy was *VERY* lucky that he didn't take that paint clean off the vehicle. *EVERYTHING* he does is dangerous, regardless of the fact that he's using M105. Using M105 makes it even *more* dangerous than he already is. Not only does he work the M105 passed the flash over point, he works it til it's completely dusted itself off the car, leaving no residue at all behind. Guys, this is *dangerous*. PLEASE don't take this video as a good way to operate a rotary buffer, and *especially* not the way to use M105. The only reason I'm risking the video's author taking offense to this (and I am truly sorry if you do) is because of the high risk of someone following this technique and damaging their own (or God forbid someone elses) car.



I don't want to just post "don't do it this way" videos, so I'm going to try and find some good ones, as well. Maybe you guys could post some links to some helpful videos, too...



Once again, I am truly sorry if the author and/or rotary operator take offense to this post. It's not my intention to offend, but just to inform.
Click to expand...



Ive seen his videos and cannot stand them. His technique scares me.
 
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