Think I`m done messing around with coatings, final thoughts...

Very intresting that it`s washing of relatively easy and not bonds to the paint. Where I live and winter time you often needs to use a tar remover in the prewash procedure. Or my wash media gets stained with tar and other contaminants so use it gets a safer wash for me.

Will looking forward to your experience to clay the 22ple coating and what you think about it.

Always looks very clean after your decon washes of fleet vehicals you do. What car schampo do you use?

You put down alot of work in your testing and I am gratefull that you share it with us!
 
Very intresting that it`s washing of relatively easy and not bonds to the paint. Where I live and winter time you often needs to use a tar remover in the prewash procedure. Or my wash media gets stained with tar and other contaminants so use it gets a safer wash for me.
If I come across large gobs of goo, I`m using a demoted Eagle Edgeless in that area instead of the wash mitt. I`m trying not to use to many chems as I wanna see if the coatings have provided enough protection for easier removal of the stuff.

Will looking forward to your experience to clay the 22ple coating and what you think about it.
Gonna proceed very carefully with lotsa lube; don`t wanna mar the surface...hopefully the `soft glass coat clay` works as advertised.

Always looks very clean after your decon washes of fleet vehicals you do. What car schampo do you use?

For these fleet vehicles, have some Poorboy`s World Super Slick & Suds Concentrated Car Wash but sometimes i just grab the bottle of Dawn dishwashing soap (*gasp*) from the kitchen. Usually use Gyeon Bathe on vehicles that matter but being fleet vehicles, economy sometimes prevails.

The joy of working with fleet vehicles is that sometimes you can try things you`d never think of doing to a personal vehicle.

You put down alot of work in your testing and I am gratefull that you share it with us!

Thanks...its been a very interesting and educational process for sure. A very valuable takeaway for me with all the posts is having others comment on the process and suggest things that I don`t know about which ends up making my life easier.

An important thing to remember is all of this us being done by someone with pretty limited experience in the detailing world. I`ll read directions on products, search the forums for a little background on others experiences and then have at it, making my fair share of mistakes along the way. The list of "Things that seemed like a good idea at the time..." grows daily.

One thing coating-related that is beginning to become clear is that among all the products I`ve tried, there really haven`t been any bad choices...all pretty solid products that pretty much do what they claim to do (for the most part; longevity is always a wildcard depending on use/maint)

All are slightly different in this area or that but at the end of the day, all work reasonably well. All are glossy, some slightly more than others, some softer look, some harder look, some bead better, some sheet better. Among the more common/mainstream/popular choices, it`s becoming apparent that they`re popular because they work; the key to `coating happiness` is identifying a specific set of characteristics that appeal to your own tastes/needs and then finding a product that ticks off as many of those boxes as possible.

That`s what I`m taking away from all if this anyway.
 
Also the black trim on that Red Van looked very nice for an outside working van. Did you dress it prior to Can Coat?

Sorry, missed this question. All I did to the (really nasty looking) black trim prior to CanCoating it was wipe down (aggresively) with some Megs APC, then wipedown with Gyeon Prep. Tried to go a little heavier with the CanCoat on the trim figuring it might be s bit porous.

The next truck has is a Transit as well so it`ll have a lot if trim to play with. Might do Gyeon Trim on one side, Gtech C4 on the other and CanCoat on front bumper. It`s all a question of motivation at this point
 
I normally just spray it on the surface that has dirt and then rinse it off. I keep it wet with a little more product. Then rinse it off and proceed with washing. Essentially taking part of the Mike Phillips Aggressive Wash Method. I do not agitate nor do I add water as I do not want to dilute the product.

Perhaps you are not in an area that has a lot of iron contaminants.
Will try this next time (And save myself the quick wash step in the process).

Need to find an easier/quicker way to apply than my much-refilled 16oz Fallout Cleaner bottle...lotss trigger squeezing to cover van. Tried a quazar pump sprayer this last time but Fallout Cleaner a bit too viscous to spray nicely.

Agitating it helps me get complete coverage but if i could apply more evenly and quickly, another (cold and sometimes wind blown) step would be saved.
 
Curious (well, I think so anyway) item wirh 22ple HPC.

Never really looked to coatings for scratch resistance but maybe it has merit?

Cleaned up the van I used 22ple HPC on last March; noticed some scratches across the applied logo decal that pretty much stopped at the paint.

Probably trees going in and out of driveways all summer long, pretty common thing in the vans. I know the scratches weren`t there when I applied the coating so musta happened this past summer.

First thought is coating actually is somewhat scratch resistant? I dunno, but kinda interesting...

One scratch did extend into the paint very, very faintly but otherwise...

I did coat over the logo though so it didn`t protect that, which makes it more curious; am I missing something obvious.

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I wouldn`t expect a coating to protect against tree branches. I would hope that a coating would protect against scratches from finger prints on a dusty car, someone leaning up against a fender or even wiping dust off with a MF towel, etc. All of which will scratch the paint on my car.

ks
 
Sometimes the marring-resistance of various things can be surprising. E.g., I`ve had (many layers of) KSG protect against a really awful "oops!" that should`ve caused some real damage, never woulda thunk it. With the scratches being less severe on the paint than on the decals, maybe the coating works pretty well in that regard. The hardness/softness of whatever`s under the coating might remain a significant factor no matter how tough that coating is.
 
I wouldn`t expect a coating to protect against tree branches. I would hope that a coating would protect against scratches from finger prints on a dusty car, someone leaning up against a fender or even wiping dust off with a MF towel, etc. All of which will scratch the paint on my car.

ks

Agree. I have notice my coated vehicles have far fewer "life marks" on them after a year than they ever did with even just 6 months with a sealant or wax. My philosophy is the coatings probably provide an increased resistance to light marring, but I`d never expect them to protect the pant from something that would live a scratch
 
BudgetPlan1- Isn`t it as simple as the decals being softer than the paint?
Probably; the obvious sometimes eludes me...

I wouldn`t expect a coating to protect against tree branches. I would hope that a coating would protect against scratches from finger prints on a dusty car, someone leaning up against a fender or even wiping dust off with a MF towel, etc. All of which will scratch the paint on my car.
ks
I`ll have to ask the Tech "What the %^$#@! did you do to your van?????"...guessing the answer will be pine tree needles; they`re not that harsh. And then maybe a punch to my face for being a tool.

Sometimes the marring-resistance of various things can be surprising. E.g., I`ve had (many layers of) KSG protect against a really awful "oops!" that should`ve caused some real damage, never woulda thunk it. With the scratches being less severe on the paint than on the decals, maybe the coating works pretty well in that regard. The hardness/softness of whatever`s under the coating might remain a significant factor no matter how tough that coating is.
While I`d hate to jump to that conclusion, guess it`s possible (hopefully).

Agree. I have notice my coated vehicles have far fewer "life marks" on them after a year than they ever did with even just 6 months with a sealant or wax. My philosophy is the coatings probably provide an increased resistance to light marring, but I`d never expect them to protect the pant from something that would live a scratch
I would hope some protection is provided by a coating...otherwise all those hardness claims are in question.

Eh, it is what it is...
 
I don`t think the hardness claims are questionable. They are simply a property of the SiO2 bonds. Everything depends on the thickness and the pressure. I get pretty good scratch resistance with coatings from fingerprints, using dry MF towels (it happens in small bits!) and grubby little hands around the door edges and handles. However, backpack zippers and straps as well as twigs on bushes in the alley and Tesla employees usually are pretty adept at scratching things.

Here`s why I use coatings:

1. They look great
2. They make washing easier
3. They offer UV protection and help with water removal
4. Minimal scratch resistance.


(Sent via my mobile device...)
 
2 coats Gyeon Prime + 2 coats Gyeon CanCoat
Outta this can of CanCoat got:
2 coats Ford E250 Van
2 coats another Ford E250 Van
2 coats Ford E250 Transit Extended Van
2 coats Ford Ranger pickup
1 coat Ford Focus

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Edit: Should probably get an admin to change title of thread...apparently I`m not done "messing around with coatings..."
 

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2 coats Gyeon Prime + 2 coats Gyeon CanCoat
Outta this can of CanCoat got:
2 coats Ford E250 Van
2 coats another Ford E250 Van
2 coats Ford E250 Transit Extended Van
2 coats Ford Ranger pickup
1 coat Ford Focus

Wow, really impressive for a single can! I didn`t think it would go that far. That`s actually far more applications than I got out of a bottle of McKee`s 37 Coating for roughly the same price. Even coating my vehicles twice a year, I`d still come out ahead.

I was set to go the McKee`s route again with my wife`s SUV and daughter`s car this Spring, but I`m now thinking of doing a full detail with CanCoat in the Spring followed up with a simple Prep/CanCoat re-application the following Fall and calling it good. With the ease of application, the extra time would be negligible...15~20 minutes more worse case. McKee`s has lasted me 12 months and counting, but with something this easy to apply I really wouldn`t mind the difference in longevity as long as I can get through an entire winter on an application.

Hmmm. That CanCoat kit at Esoteric is really starting to call my name now. My entire Spring acquisition strategy has changed!
 
but I`m now thinking of doing a full detail with CanCoat in the Spring followed up with a simple Prep/CanCoat re-application the following Fall and calling it good.

Some times I wonder if that isn`t the best way to go for an often used daily driver...kinda treat it like a super - sealant.

With multi layer coating applied, dealing with common incidents (scratches & marring from a shopping cart hit, or an infidel leaning on car while wearing jeans, jewelry marring around door handles, etc) is a somewhat involved task. With something like CanCoat, easily and quickly remedied.
 
I agree BudgetMan and DesertNate. I`ve used CanCoat three times to refresh and boost coated cars. It`s so easy and it`s probably the best beading product I`ve ever used. (whatever that is really worth).
If I used just CanCoat, then did a Cure wipe down after washes, I bet you can get a year from it.
 
Once I apply the Kamikaze myiabi coat and ISM, the bottles are basically done, and then I just refresh with overcoat every so often--So when do I really need to think about doing the whole process again and/or going to a different product for round 2 of major protection?
 
Once I apply the Kamikaze myiabi coat and ISM, the bottles are basically done, and then I just refresh with overcoat every so often--So when do I really need to think about doing the whole process again and/or going to a different product for round 2 of major protection?
The Miyabi/ISM combo is generally thought of as 24-36 months, although like any coating mileage, climate and maintenance will play a larger role than time.

We`re at 15 months in NE Ohio on a 10k mile a year daily driver that sits outside 8 months outta the year. Combo is still performing as when applied. Car just always looks clean except for winter where everything around here is coated with so much road salt & brine it actually flakes/powders off car when door is closed.
 
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