MattPersman
New member
Dang shiny bro ! THanks for the update Kurt
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Think I`m done messing around with coatings, final thoughts...
- Thread starter BudgetPlan1
- Start date
BudgetPlan1
Active member
It held up quite well; a few scratches here and there (as to be expected by a working van) but overall the 22ple still looked great and was staying cleaner with no washings in 10 months. Definitely a solid product if gloss and self-cleaning characteristics are desired. Also one of the most forgiving application processes I`ve used, nearly sealant-like, bizarre but pretty close to mindeless application. I remember when I applied it, did the whole entire side of the van then went back and buffed off with no problem.
Was pretty impressed with the glass-coat clay as well, really left no marks and it cleaned up the surface better than a chemical decon does.
22ple is kind of an enigmatic company, very limited exposure (no website even) but the stuff really works well.
Was pretty impressed with the glass-coat clay as well, really left no marks and it cleaned up the surface better than a chemical decon does.
22ple is kind of an enigmatic company, very limited exposure (no website even) but the stuff really works well.
BudgetPlan1
Active member
Last van...hopefully
Was gonna use the Nanolex Si3D on it but the application for that is a bit different, thought it looked like a little bit of time. Essentially, apply in 18"x18" sections or perhaps a bit larger and then keep moving applicator in crosshatch pattern until coating/residue is all dried up, then buff.
Nanolex Si3D: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_sTPs-0lr4I
Kinda looked like a lot of work to me. Since I always keep a set of Kamikaze around, figr`d "Why not...coat of Miyabi + coat of ISM, maybe tomorrow some Infinity Wax and then Overcoat. I should be home at a decent hour today." Kinda forgot how far Miyabi can go so now not getting home so early after all. Roof is done yesterday with McKees V2 that I`m gonna top with HydroSilex Recharge so only hadda do sides, hood, etc. At 60 degrees F Miyabi has around 10-12 minute window, sometimes longer so I was applying to half of entire side of van, sitting down for a few minutes and then buffing off.
Vehicle:
30ml bottle after 1st coat (except the roof)
Kinda a mixed blessing...can do second coat but gonna be here 3hrs longer than expected...again.
Was gonna use the Nanolex Si3D on it but the application for that is a bit different, thought it looked like a little bit of time. Essentially, apply in 18"x18" sections or perhaps a bit larger and then keep moving applicator in crosshatch pattern until coating/residue is all dried up, then buff.
Nanolex Si3D: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_sTPs-0lr4I
Kinda looked like a lot of work to me. Since I always keep a set of Kamikaze around, figr`d "Why not...coat of Miyabi + coat of ISM, maybe tomorrow some Infinity Wax and then Overcoat. I should be home at a decent hour today." Kinda forgot how far Miyabi can go so now not getting home so early after all. Roof is done yesterday with McKees V2 that I`m gonna top with HydroSilex Recharge so only hadda do sides, hood, etc. At 60 degrees F Miyabi has around 10-12 minute window, sometimes longer so I was applying to half of entire side of van, sitting down for a few minutes and then buffing off.
Vehicle:
30ml bottle after 1st coat (except the roof)
Kinda a mixed blessing...can do second coat but gonna be here 3hrs longer than expected...again.
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atgonzales
New member
Budget
Those work vans will present a great company image to the customer, nicely done
Those work vans will present a great company image to the customer, nicely done
Of the coatings you have used which has gone farthest and which has been the most amount of product? Maybe not easy to say when some need/could 2 layers to reach the claimed longevity. But the ones that stands out in both ends. Then you have the price also to consider. Interesting in the coatings you can apply several cars with the least amount of product. Then those you have to really consider if getting a 30ml or 50ml bottle when haveing a larger car. Think that this can be usefull for some with larger car or/and multible cars.
I have seen that video about applying nanolex coating and is a little more effort to it. Think that cquarts UK has a simualar application but could be wrong. Hope you get home as soon as possible and the application runs smooth.
I have seen that video about applying nanolex coating and is a little more effort to it. Think that cquarts UK has a simualar application but could be wrong. Hope you get home as soon as possible and the application runs smooth.
BudgetPlan1
Active member
The products that seemed to go the farthest have been Kamikaze Miyabi and 22ple HPC. I think in a general sense, the ones that go the farthest are those with the largest, most forgiving application window (a class into which Miyabi and 22ple fall). Didn`t present itself as much when I was solely using the foam block/microsuede applicator cloths (included with most kits) but when I started using the foam block/microFIBER applicator cloths, product usage seems to be extended. Those cloths seem to hold product in a more usable state between panels, especially with those coatings that don`t flash quickly. When using things that flash especially quick, like Gyeon Skin, Gyeon Booster and Feynlab TopCoat, I usually switch back to the microsuede applicator cloths and that seems to work better for those kinds of products.
The microfiber applicator cloths are also excellent in dusty/lint filled environments, more so than microsuede ones.
The microfiber applicator cloths are also excellent in dusty/lint filled environments, more so than microsuede ones.
Hi Budget,
Your reviews got me to try the Myabi and I am sold on this product. I have been thinking of trying the rim coat. So far, I have only used Carpro Dlux which I have been happy with but the application is not as nice as what I have experienced with Kamikaze. My problem is that the rim coat is expensive if just doing 4 wheels. It would be fine if the unused portion could store for awhile to use it later on other cars but it sounds like you only have about a month after opening the bottle. Does anyone know if vacuum sealing the bottle would extend the life? I was thinking of using one of those food storage sealers. Leave the bottle cap loose while vacuum sealing the bag and then tighten the bottle cap from outside the bag.
Your reviews got me to try the Myabi and I am sold on this product. I have been thinking of trying the rim coat. So far, I have only used Carpro Dlux which I have been happy with but the application is not as nice as what I have experienced with Kamikaze. My problem is that the rim coat is expensive if just doing 4 wheels. It would be fine if the unused portion could store for awhile to use it later on other cars but it sounds like you only have about a month after opening the bottle. Does anyone know if vacuum sealing the bottle would extend the life? I was thinking of using one of those food storage sealers. Leave the bottle cap loose while vacuum sealing the bag and then tighten the bottle cap from outside the bag.
BudgetPlan1
Active member
Glad you like the Miyabi; such an easy product to use. Are you topping with Overcoat? Sometimes I wonder if Overcoat is the key to the overall performance of Kamikaze stuff as far as hydrophobics go.
As for Stance, it is a bit $$ compared to something like Gyeon Rim but it applies so easy and goes so far (especially when applied with a cut up red foam applicator). I would think vacuum sealing certainly couldn`t hurt but I`ve kept the opened bottle for nearly six months (finally used it all up) with no detrimental effects. I think I first used it around June of 2017 and finally finished up the bottle in late November 2017 and it still worked just fine.
So far the only Kamikaze product I didn`t really like was their Intenso Window Coating; had to order from UK and it shed water like nobody`s business but things like bug strikes in dry weather would leave little 2" trails that were kinda hard to remove; wipers and a squirt of washer fluid wouldn`t budge `em, took some elbow grease and glass cleaner.
Intenso: https://youtu.be/qmyO3O9xMaY
But again, Stance lasted at least 6 months in open bottle for me, still usable with no apparent ill-effects. So easy and forgiving to apply, long lasting as well. Makes wheel cleaning a breeze.
As for Stance, it is a bit $$ compared to something like Gyeon Rim but it applies so easy and goes so far (especially when applied with a cut up red foam applicator). I would think vacuum sealing certainly couldn`t hurt but I`ve kept the opened bottle for nearly six months (finally used it all up) with no detrimental effects. I think I first used it around June of 2017 and finally finished up the bottle in late November 2017 and it still worked just fine.
So far the only Kamikaze product I didn`t really like was their Intenso Window Coating; had to order from UK and it shed water like nobody`s business but things like bug strikes in dry weather would leave little 2" trails that were kinda hard to remove; wipers and a squirt of washer fluid wouldn`t budge `em, took some elbow grease and glass cleaner.
Intenso: https://youtu.be/qmyO3O9xMaY
But again, Stance lasted at least 6 months in open bottle for me, still usable with no apparent ill-effects. So easy and forgiving to apply, long lasting as well. Makes wheel cleaning a breeze.
yamabob
New member
No idea if this works with coatings, but years ago I learned to fill my used base coat paints with argon ( helps to be around welding equipment ). It displaces the oxygen which will cause the paint to go bad after sitting on shelf. I wonder if it would stop the coating from crystallizing or curing at all. gonna have to try, results in 6-8 months
Yes, I used overcoat. The only thing I didn`t like was that it looked great until I pulled it out in the sun and saw all the smears. They easily wiped off though. I`m sure I am using too much product but if I use any less, I feel like I`m not putting anything on. I was planning to switch to reload. I`ve used this a lot in the past with no smear problems at all and this is applying it really heavy. You might want to try the reload sometime. Anyway, if the rim coat lasted 6 months that would be good for me. I have a few cars to do this spring.
Great idea with the argon. I know of chemical companies who do this type of thing on top of their product using nitrogen.
Great idea with the argon. I know of chemical companies who do this type of thing on top of their product using nitrogen.
Budget - I`m in the Chicago suburbs so I guess I have similar nasty winter roads as you. Do you find that you lose the beading on the lower half of the side panels? I have this with the Kamikaze coated cars and the cquartz coated cars. I had this happen in the fall on one of the cquartz cars but something interesting happened. I got fresh tar splattered up the sides of the car. I cleaned off the tar using Tar X and wd-40. The beading then came back so I think the beading loss is actually traffic film and this film seems to be worse in the winter. I was wondering if you also experience this and if so, what you use to clean it off.
BudgetPlan1
Active member
Same thing happened here with first use. For a while I applied it dry using folded Gyeon BaldWipe as applicator, followed by buffing with a fluffier towel.
I have a unique talent to smear any product of this type, Gtechniq c2v3, Gyeon Cure, 22ple VS1...heck, I can even streak Poorboys Spray & Wipe. Now I just use Overcoat as a drying aid w a platinum Pluffle towel after each wash; kinda lazy man methods but it makes drying so much easier too. You`d think it would use a lot but 250ml bottle lasted from Spring 2017 until now, biweekly washes on 3 cars. Stuff goes a looong way.
I have a 70 mile daily commute on 4 of the worst freeways in Cleveland; salt, brine, chemical de-icers. It does wear down the coating in those side panels. Spring will mean Gyeon Iron on entire car followed by Gyeon Foam at 1:2 dilution and need be, tar remover. I did all that on my last car in Spring 2017 (coated with Wolfgang Uber at the time) and it didn`t bring it back. Clayed it next (what the heck, was gonna be polishing it regardless) and still nothing below the beltline on the sides.
Now my wife`s daily driver blue civic, Kamikaze trio applied October 2016, made it through just fine but she only drives about 10k miles a year, 50-50 highway/city.
Now her Corvette, which is garaged November thru March/April...I`ll bet that coating keeps on going like new for years. It gets rained on as much as the next car but that`s no worries, never sees the nasty LSP killing stuff.
That`s one reason coating longevity claims are so funny; it`s not the length of time but the miles and the climate the miles are driven in.
Spring will be interesting to see how Kamikaze does/did on my car; probably hit close to 18-20k miles this year, thru the worst Cleveland has to offer. To be honest, I`m 50-50 on any consumer avaliable coating making it thru that unscathed.
We`ll see...
For DD in harsh winter weather I would look at cq UK or PA Viking Coat or PA Viking Shield. Those are design for that kind of environment and think you get the longest longevity with them.
I always use a tar degreaser in the winter months when the road salt is on the roads. That road film is the only chemical I have been able to desolve it with. Remember that ceramic coatings is very resistant against chemicals. It`s the really high alkaline products with ph level above 12 you are recommend to not use. The tar degreaser I use is based on naptha and only used bellow the sidewindows and to the back of the car. It seems to be that the road film is much of oils and tar. Where I live many use studded winter tires and those is hard to the asphalt roads as with combinations of the road salt. The roads gets really dirty. A prewash foam is also recommended to use to get other kind of contaminants you get on your paint. This will for me revive the sheeting and beading if not the lsp is done. Something like tarx works great also but not very economical.
I totaly agree that it is the mileage that does the most wear to the lsp longevity. If you compare it in the same environment. Then I think a good maintance is necessary to keep it fresh and extend the longevity.
Thanks for the thoughts about how far they reach. Will look for those mf applicator towels.
I always use a tar degreaser in the winter months when the road salt is on the roads. That road film is the only chemical I have been able to desolve it with. Remember that ceramic coatings is very resistant against chemicals. It`s the really high alkaline products with ph level above 12 you are recommend to not use. The tar degreaser I use is based on naptha and only used bellow the sidewindows and to the back of the car. It seems to be that the road film is much of oils and tar. Where I live many use studded winter tires and those is hard to the asphalt roads as with combinations of the road salt. The roads gets really dirty. A prewash foam is also recommended to use to get other kind of contaminants you get on your paint. This will for me revive the sheeting and beading if not the lsp is done. Something like tarx works great also but not very economical.
I totaly agree that it is the mileage that does the most wear to the lsp longevity. If you compare it in the same environment. Then I think a good maintance is necessary to keep it fresh and extend the longevity.
Thanks for the thoughts about how far they reach. Will look for those mf applicator towels.
Thanks for the valuable advice guys.
I do pre foam the cars using reset soap. Last time, I followed up with a higher ph soap which did make the sheeting better but did not bring it back to beading. I`ll try some tarx again next time to see if the beading comes back. I have seen your previous posts about road film which is one of the reasons I tried the higher ph soap. It`s probably no where near as good as the soaps you can get there.
Yet another reason to move south.
I do pre foam the cars using reset soap. Last time, I followed up with a higher ph soap which did make the sheeting better but did not bring it back to beading. I`ll try some tarx again next time to see if the beading comes back. I have seen your previous posts about road film which is one of the reasons I tried the higher ph soap. It`s probably no where near as good as the soaps you can get there.
Yet another reason to move south.
Desertnate
Active member
I had a similar experience with the McKee`s coating. After a long winter of road spray and salt last year, I thought the coating was completely done on the areas you describe. However, I noticed was as the weather warmed up and I started back to my normal wash schedule, the beading/sheeting properties on those areas slowly improved. After the third!fourth wash, I think things were back to at least 90% of where they were prior to winter setting in. McKee`s supposedly isn`t as durable as some of the more expensive coatings, so I didn`t try hitting it with harsh chemicals or clay, but it did highlight what can be gained from keeping it clean and how some properties can be restored by a few good washings.
BudgetPlan1
Active member
Well, may as well finish the new trucks up with everything I`ve got. Kamikaze Miyabi x 2, ISM x 1, a coat of Infinity Wax, all topped up with Overcoat:
...and finally a smallish vehicle, polished with Gyeon Primer, Flex 3401 and black LC Force Hybrid Black Finishing pad. Will be using Gyeon One on it tomorrow and after a suggestion from Jeremy @ Gyeon, gonna top it with CanCoat.
...and finally a smallish vehicle, polished with Gyeon Primer, Flex 3401 and black LC Force Hybrid Black Finishing pad. Will be using Gyeon One on it tomorrow and after a suggestion from Jeremy @ Gyeon, gonna top it with CanCoat.
atgonzales
New member
Budget
Nicely done....
Nicely done....
Do you ever get worried that you may be saturating the paint with nano particles with all the testing that you`ve been doing on the same vehicles? That maybe polishing doesn`t really remove all of it and that repeated iterations of various coatings wll have an affect on each other.
BudgetPlan1
Active member
Not really; I suppose anything is possible but looking at some of the multiple testing done by some Autopians, it`s really not much of a concern....at the present.
There`s a few vehicles that have had 2 or 3 things on the hoods, most are single application coatings, at most topped up with `boosters` or CanCoat after 20k miles or so.
The below is a summary of all these vehicles that I have access to on a regular basis to see how they are doing, most are not that heavily laden with products, certainly not to the extent of some things I`ve seen here or outside of mfg recommendations:
Van 1: Kamikaze Miyabi x 2, ISM x 1, Infinity Wax x 1, Overcoat applied 02/08/2017.
Van 3: Feynlab Ceramic + TopCoat applied 02/02/2018
Van 9: Cquartz & Gyeon Cure applied 01/2017; wash, decon, CanCoat + IGL Premier refresh 10/2017.
Van 10: Gloss Shop Ceramic V1 applied 03/2017
Van 11: 22ple HPC + VS1 Final Coat applied March 2017; refresh 01/207 w/ 22ple glass coat clay, 22ple Finitura & 22ple VS1 Final Coat
Van 13: Gyeon Syncro applied 01/26/2018
Van 15: Gtechniq CSL + C2v3 applied 02/2017; wash, decon, CanCoat + Kamikaze Overcoat refresh 10/2017.
Van 17: Gyeon Prime + CanCoat + IGL Premier applied 11/2017; hood buffed clean, HydroSilex Recharge, Kamikaze OVercoat & 22ple VS1 Final Coat applied in 1/3 sections, 02/03/2018
Van 18 Hood: IGL Quartz + Premier (passenger side) and 22ple HPC + Finitura + VS1 Final Coat (driver side) applied 12/2017
Ranger 6: Gyeon Mohs + Cure applied 02/2017; wash, decon Gyeon CanCoat refresh 10/2017.
Ranger 7: Gloss Shop Ceramic Coating V2 applied 10/2017.
Ranger 9: Pearl Nano applied 03/2017.
Black Honda CR-V: 22ple HPC + VS1 applied April 2017.
White 2017 Ford F150: Gyeon Mohs + Gyeon Booster applied 11/2017.
Crystal Red 2017 Ford Explorer: 22ple HPC + Finitura applied 11/2017.
Black Ford Focus: Gyeon Prime + Cure applied April 2017; CanCoat refresh 11/2017.
Black Ford Focus: Kamikaze Miyabi + ISM + Overcoat applied 10/2017.
Mint Green Toyota Camry: Gyeon Prime + Cure applied April 2017.
Aegean Blue 2016 Honda Civic: Kamikaze Miyabi + ISM + Infinity Wax + Overcoat applied 10/2016.
Black 2017 Honda Accord: 22ple HPC applied June 2017, polished off with Scholls S20 Black and Kamikaze Miyabi + ISM + Infinity Wax + Overcoat applied 9/2017
Black 2014 Corvette: WG Uber Ceramic applied April 2016, polished off and Kamikaze Miyabi + ISM + Infinity Wax + Overcoat applied 08/2017
Actually I had lunch with Budget Man recently and we talked about some of this. Most all trucks in the fleet he lets the coatings run their entire course. That`s all part of his evaluations of each coating. In addition a lot of these vans go home with the technicians starting about April, then never come back much as the techs take them home. He gets to evaluate most all of them when they come back inside the shop when pool season ends. Then he`ll do a wash on them and evaluate gloss / beading/ dirt sheading, etc.
It`s a real world clinical evaluation of various coatings. And the weirdest thing about it, Budget Man isn`t a tech in the shop assigned to maintain these vans. He`s an inside office operations manager. He plays with these coatings and toppers just for fun in his own free time.
It`s a real world clinical evaluation of various coatings. And the weirdest thing about it, Budget Man isn`t a tech in the shop assigned to maintain these vans. He`s an inside office operations manager. He plays with these coatings and toppers just for fun in his own free time.