Rotary Usage

so the Makita 6227 is the best rotary for beginners? I want to polish my car myself so I'm assuming rotary is the best way to go? I want to be able to take out very light scruff marks for scratches, nothing deep at all.
 
so my uncle just gave me a northern industry tool, polisher and by the looks of it, it has a 7inch backing plate, is there a way i can switch that out for a 5inch so i can use 6inch pads or do i have to stick with 7inch pads? im really a newbie when it comes to rotary tools, but i've been reading for a couple weeks now on them
 
To control a high speed buffer it just takes practice. To help you with the pad skipping try to tilt the buffer to the right side a little. This should help. But do not tilt it to much because you will start cutting into the paint more then you want. You need to keep the pad as flat a possible with a very slight tilt to the right. As for the correct steps in pads and compounds go to this thread that I posted a few days ago.



http://www.autopia.org/forum/pro-details-before-after/113533-how-have-fun-junk-yard.html
 
I have a B&D 9533 9 inch, 2400 rpm Random Orbital Polisher and would like to know if it would work for polishing out swirl marks on my 2007 Buick Lucerne CXL which has the sharkskin color special paint. If so, where can I get foam buffing/polishing pads/bonnets for it? It has a fixed fairly soft non-removable pad which bonnets fit over. I haven't seen anything except the terry cotton or poly bonnets. Any help appreciated.
 
morven39 said:
I have a B&D 9533 9 inch, 2400 rpm Random Orbital Polisher and would like to know...
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Welcome to Autopia!



I'd repost this as a new thread. Nobody with helpful info is likely to see it here in this rotary-centric thread. Your machine is *not* a rotary polisher, and you don't (IMO) want/need one either.



I for one would *not* use the B&D machine on your paint, at least not with cotton/poly bonnets. IMO you'd be *MUCH* better off to either find some microfiber bonnets for it or, infinitely better idea: get a better machine. Seriously, that thing isn't gonna do much good and it could do a lotta harm....sorry to be so pessimistic.



Look into the Flex 3401 (nice but pricey) or the Porter Cable or Ultimate Detailing Machine. There's a mountain of info here about these.



Maybe check out the thread that coke4class recently started, in which he asked about what machine he oughta get.
 
woohoo! My name was mentioned!



Indeed it is very difficult decision for a newbie to the detailing world with "machine". All i've really used was my pure elbow grease... but now i am at the point of stepping up the game... :) so I am thinking about this porter cable...option... ive read nothing but good things about it from here and other forums that i am and guys use it on here...!



Thx for posting some really good info guys!
 
Thanks for the reply. I will check out the Makita and Porter Cable polishers and see which one I like best. I am too old to do the polishing with elbow grease but would like to keep my car looking good.
 
Just read the entire thread... Someone posted about "not" using your QD spray to prep new pads prior to buffing. So what "are" you supposed to do to prep a clean pad prior to use. Once I've got some product on the pad and have made a few passes I just lay a strip of product on the panel, turn on the machine, angle it some and get to work without sling.
 
Nice work guys! New to Autopia and gravitated right to this thread. I should have joined up a long time ago.



I may stick with the PC for a while. It's working good so far. No major correction needed yet.



biolink

:goodjob
 
bump for an awesome thread! just went through all 18 pages of it, and a lot of good info here. I just picked up a Makita 9227c and wanted some suggestions as to what pads/backing plates and technique everyone uses.



I came from the PC 7424 and I feel that I will fit right in with the rotary crowd. Thx autopians!!!
 
hi guys! , im new to rotary and i try my new makita on some spare parts i have for my car ... and i can't get the pad 100% flat , she always want to spin off and go crazy :(
 
No need to keep it flat, just tilt it until the pad stops skipping. Also make sure you have enough product on your pad. The first initial time you buff you will want to use more product than normal so as to prime the pad.



Also make sure you're working on clean, uncontaminated paint. That can also cause skipping....if the paint is contaminated.



Anthony
 
Anthony Orosco said:
No need to keep it flat, just tilt it until the pad stops skipping...
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As long as you don't *really* overdo the tilting the worst that'll happen is you'll get some worse holograms. It seems like the less you tilt the milder the holograms, so I'd only tilt it enough to avoid having to wrestle with it. If you have to *really* tilt it look for other things like the amount of product/etc.



Heh heh, I'm a little :nervous: about horning in on Anthony Orosco's advice any, especially when it comes to rotary use :o



If you check out the recent thread where Dave KG was coaching people on rotary use, you'll see that they're all tilting the pads a *little* bit, some more than others.
 
Lots of good info in here thanks to all the pros who contributed.



Got my 9227 but won't be trying it out yet until I feel confident (and my 3m backing plates arrive). I've been viewing some videos of Todd and Paul on youtube, are there some that are more instructional so I can see the speed and techniques of the makita?
 
Accumulator said:
As long as you don't *really* overdo the tilting the worst that'll happen is you'll get some worse holograms. It seems like the less you tilt the milder the holograms, so I'd only tilt it enough to avoid having to wrestle with it. If you have to *really* tilt it look for other things like the amount of product/etc.



Heh heh, I'm a little :nervous: about horning in on Anthony Orosco's advice any, especially when it comes to rotary use :o



If you check out the recent thread where Dave KG was coaching people on rotary use, you'll see that they're all tilting the pads a *little* bit, some more than others.
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Yup... so very true. Every time I get a little buffer hop, I think "well, there's another hologram". Same thing with too much tilt. The pad has to run smooooothly over the paint to not get holograms. Of course, I don't really stress out too much about it if I'm compounding, but when it comes to final polishing, you just gotta have it smoooooth and light to not get the dreaded grams.
 
Stupid question, but what happens when you barely have any clear coat to work with? For example, a car that has been detailed many time, would that car have less clear coat to work with?



- Tien
 
sdkid said:
Stupid question, but what happens when you barely have any clear coat to work with? For example, a car that has been detailed many time, would that car have less clear coat to work with?



- Tien
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You don't polish and you use a glaze to fill in the swirls.
 
SuperBee364 said:
Yup... so very true. Every time I get a little buffer hop, I think "well, there's another hologram". Same thing with too much tilt. The pad has to run smooooothly over the paint to not get holograms. Of course, I don't really stress out too much about it if I'm compounding, but when it comes to final polishing, you just gotta have it smoooooth and light to not get the dreaded grams.
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Sometimes it's inevitable... like that Porsche we've been talking about... I'll post a photo or two of that... M03 and FPII on Meg's 9006 pad marred the paint... PC with 6.5" white and 9006 left buffer trails... rotary with LC black and FPII worked best and PC/FPII/LC white worked well to clean up a buffer trail here and there... man I hate that paint!
 
Darkstar752 said:
You don't polish and you use a glaze to fill in the swirls.
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Exactly :xyxthumbs My Jag's at that point...any additional polishing messes with the ss metallic lacquer and I'm just trading the marring for different issues :(
 
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