Rotary Usage

I just bought a IR surface temp thermometer to help me be careful when using the rotary. Anybody know what the danger zone is of temperature? What should I make sure I don't exceed? I've been using foam pads and now am moving over to wool pads. I understand the heat build-up is quicker with wool and I want to be careful.
 
from what I read in this thread, temps should be kept under 115-120 and the wool pads actually run coller during operation than do the foam pads. I havent used a rotary yet, just spitting out what I have read from numerous posts.
 
I plan to purchase a LC 6" backing plate. Can I use the Meguiar's W4000 8in wool pad on this plate?



Which size backing plate is regarded as the most popular with lots of support? Is LC the best backing plate available?



THANKS
 
Hi guys,



FIrst off this is a great thread, although it does seem to go off on tangents quite a bit. I've been searching Autopia and youtube and what not for a video of a how-to using a Makita or any rotary buffer. I'd love to get one, but everyone just seem to offer their own opinion on why I'm not ready to use one seeing as all I used is a DA (PC/UDM), which also gives me the impression that Rotary polishers are only for people who know what they're doing.



I was trying to learn more about it, the links posted in this thread are all dead, so I really don't know where to start.
 
m4gician said:
Hi guys,



FIrst off this is a great thread, although it does seem to go off on tangents quite a bit. I've been searching Autopia and youtube and what not for a video of a how-to using a Makita or any rotary buffer. I'd love to get one, but everyone just seem to offer their own opinion on why I'm not ready to use one seeing as all I used is a DA (PC/UDM), which also gives me the impression that Rotary polishers are only for people who know what they're doing.



I was trying to learn more about it, the links posted in this thread are all dead, so I really don't know where to start.
Click to expand...





I can help you out a bit on the confusion. Get a rotary. It'll be the most usefull tool in your arsenal. There's really is no big mystery in using a rotary. I see a thousand post on here about people actually afraid to use one. It's not some sort of bomb. It's a tool. And it's very easy to use. Start out on a low speed and flat surface. The key to using a rotary is being able to feather the trigger around tight spots. and just really know your products. If you know your products the risk of burning or messing up paint is extreamly minimal. I would honestly say the only people that burn paint using a rotary either are doing it intentionally or just don't know the products they are using. You will have to pay more attention using a rotary. I tend to keep a slight edge up when using it. The more you use one the more familiar you're going to get with what it's going to do. But don't be afraid of using one. It's not hard and makes detailing alot easier.
 
NickelPlated.45 said:
Hey i got a question for you rotary guys. How much time difference is there between polishing out a car with a rotary vs. pc? The pc takes me a long time. Sometimes a REALLY LONG TIME. If you guys are experiencing huge time savings with the rotary, then perhaps it is time for me to step it up.
Click to expand...





rotary can save you HOURS.
 
m4gician said:
I'd love to get one, but everyone just seem to offer their own opinion on why I'm not ready to use one seeing as all I used is a DA (PC/UDM), which also gives me the impression that Rotary polishers are only for people who know what they're doing.
Click to expand...

If you follow that you will never be ready. People are born with talent but nobody is born with experience. To gain experience you start doing it. Just do it in a manner that will not hurt you, like on a piece of hood from scrap yard or a beater where you have nothing to lose.
 
Jakerooni said:
I can help you out a bit on the confusion. Get a rotary. It'll be the most usefull tool in your arsenal. There's really is no big mystery in using a rotary. I see a thousand post on here about people actually afraid to use one. It's not some sort of bomb. It's a tool. And it's very easy to use. Start out on a low speed and flat surface. The key to using a rotary is being able to feather the trigger around tight spots. and just really know your products. If you know your products the risk of burning or messing up paint is extreamly minimal. I would honestly say the only people that burn paint using a rotary either are doing it intentionally or just don't know the products they are using. You will have to pay more attention using a rotary. I tend to keep a slight edge up when using it. The more you use one the more familiar you're going to get with what it's going to do. But don't be afraid of using one. It's not hard and makes detailing alot easier.
Click to expand...





Thanks for the advice, actually can I ask a few direct questions? How similar/dissimilar is the usage of a rotary to PC/UDM?



I know Makita is one of the many recommended makes, is there a good OTC (Home Depot/Rona) that is available with accessories (pads, backing plate, etc.) ?



Finally, this is the stupidest question I think I'm asking:



Are the products used the same? I mean can I still use my SSR line and maybe optimum with the rotary for swirl and scratch removal? Are the pads the same or different?



I use the PC and it does take quite a while for swirl correction, but it gets the job done. (eventunally). I've got a lot of accessories for the PC as well as PC appliable polishes, glazes, and waxes. How much is interchangable between the two? From all the reading I've done it looks as if the first parts of my detailing, the hardest parts, like swirl removal will probably be better off done with the rotary.



Wax and sealants are best applied the PC.



Anyways, thanks again for taking the time to answer.
 
There's quite a bit of difference in the two. THe PC/UDM is more of a vibration tool. It has it's place obviously. A rotary is more powerful and will have definate different characteristics. This will become very obvious the moment you fire up the rotary.



Makita is good because it has a very wide range of speed. 600-3000 RPM's on most models. I personally use a Dewalt. Regardless of which you go with the stock backing plates are probably not suficent for your pads. I use only Schleigle pads therfore I have a Schliegle backing plate. I would recommend the backing plate of whatever brand pad you plan on using.



Yes you will use the same products for the most part regardless of PC/UDM or rotary. The diffrence being how effective they are. If you use a heavy compound on a PC/UDM to cut deep into the clear be extreamly careful using that same compound with a rotary. I would personally use the lighest stuff you have at first with the rotary and work your way to more aggressive compound as needed until you get how each product works with it.



The same principles apply regardless of what way you go with. Remember product usuage. You don't need a whole lot to do a whole lot.
 
Where are these rotary's readily available? Or are they also a specialty online purchase (for myself anyway) for the best deal?



Also, are there any pre-set packages for sale? I.e. pads + backing plate?
 
The rotary's can be bought just about anywhere these days. I got my dewalt off ebay for about a $100 savings. But home depot and lowes and stuff like that should have them on the shelves. And any place you buy pads should have matching backplates.
 
'Wow what a great write up.\r\n\r\nSo I have have a Dewalt Rotary, and The following products.\r\n\r\nMequires clay kit\r\nMequires Wash Mit\r\nMequires Tech Wax\r\n\r\n\r\nIf someone could please give me a list of additional products I should add. Along with Pads for the rotary. If you could also list the order I should use these in.\r\n\r\nThe car is a 07 Lexus IS 250 Obsidian Black in Color. Car is approximately 1 week old, and has only been hand washed, at least by me. After the first wash, I noticed pretty bad swirl marks. Over the majority of the car. I appreciate your help.\r\n
scratchmark.jpg
'
 
I have a few questions regarding rotary usage pertaining to body lines, edges and small areas. The Jeep Cherokee question spawned this as I own one and haven’t yet taken the Makita to it. The thing is full of sharp lines (hood has numerous and there is also one present along the entire belt line). I am planning to tape them as well as all edges and seams. My question is what do you do after you remove the tape (say from the sharp lines as well as the seams)? Do you finish by hand, PC/UDM, smaller rotary plate and pad?
 
I have now bought and used a rotary a few times and I really don't think it's that difficult to use. Only problem I had was that the polish splattered all over the place. But then I started to spread out the polish on the pad with my finger before starting it again and then I had no splatter at all. I have tried both #80 and Poliseal and with an 8006 Meguiars pad.
 
I have personally never taped up anything in learning how to use a rotary. However at the time of my learning I worked for a very prominent Buick dealership with a very up to date body shop should I have ever screwed anything up that I couldn't get out. (which never happened to me but some of the other guys working there really screwed the pooch a few times) Just learning I don't think it's a bad idea. but after you get the hang of it I would think it would almost become more hindering than helping. As far as the edging goes you normally aren't going to have excess marring and scratching over the edges. So if you machine wheel in steps (and you definatly should be) save the edges for you last stage of polishing. This way your using a less agressive product with a less agressive pad. and really shouldn't have much of anything to worry about.





And Mark... It's all in the technique there.. The more you use it the better your going to get
 
I may have more questions when I use it more. But I don't think it's that hard to use if you use some common sense with it. I didn't get any burn marks or swirls with it like some do.
 
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