Rotary Usage

As you attempt to polish you need to know what you need to accomplish and do it with the 12 to 3 oclock position of the pad only. Steer around obstacles. Noone on the internet can show you how to polish...if it is in your blood and you get a feel for it, you will see your results improve. Back cars out into the Sun it is your guide to see how you did. If it has wheel marks pull it back in and use afinish sponge pad with a GOOD product like Menzerna from Germany! Dont use crappy products and dont use alot of product...LESS is more as it relates to product use on the surface.Get your feel for what is comfortable for you. paintxpert
 
I totally agree with the above advice your getting.... I burned my moms 1968 Galaxie the first time I put a wheel in my hand. That was 38 years ago! Dont polish over 1500 rpms and keep the sponge pads in place until you get good. I finish up with a wool pad that should have been removed from my polisher a month ago. But when I do scratch removal and REJUVENATION I need a Pad with plenty of what I call BITE you dont want that unless you are SUPER SKILLED. I always finish with a sponge pad so there are no complaints. AGAIN use GOOD products.
 
DAs are junk and you cant do any paint correction with them PERIOD! All do respect of course! Go to advancedautopolishing.com and see my pics. Da work does not create friction....no friction ....no correction on the substraight surface. PERIOD! BLACK is my specialty my customers test my abilities daily....they dont want wheel marks! I have a customer with 80 black stretches. He does NOT want wheel marks on his cars yet he washes them with a brush and bucket. I rejuvenate each one every time I do them. You cannot do it with a DA ...besides its in pieces against the wall by this time! All the best...PRACTICE makes perfect. Keep at it. Be Well!
 
The Meg.... products have never worked for me. I have nothing against them they just dont work for me...I dont like the results I get under the wheel. I like Menzerna products and of course they are more MONEY. I like Presta products from Italy. We Americans are far behind in this technology mostly products. I like the Green Presta wool pads for anyone who HAS experience. These are the leading products and I dont guess. I do ten to 12 cars a week. I did over 300 cars this year. Every type you can imagine. Paintxpert
 
If you run into problems you can email me paintxpert@gmail.com. Be patient with yourself, it is tedious laborious work that makes you sweat. Summer makes it even worse if it is humid. Every car type is different, no auto paint is the same. Every paint will feel different under the wheel. Unfold the bends of the body in your head and have at it. Wear EYE PROTECTION and a FACE MASK! Dont breathe these products! Wear ear protection also! BenLeonedetailer
 
When your sure the clear is minimal DO NOT use anything harsh. Use a finish pad with a mild cleaner wax and about 1200 rpms. I use Stoner Speed Bead, it is a mild cleaner wax THAT WONT BRAKE THE BANK! You get great results even @ 1200 RPMs. For finish up you may be able to use an orbital polisher but dont bank on it. I am usually not into filler polishes only because it does not last. All the halos and webs return after the first rain. If the paint is shot I, always advise the customer of this condition.
 
Tru_Shine said:
how come no one ever uses pnumatic DA's?
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I had to use those back in the day (in a shop environment) and I never liked the air hoses (as opposed to an electrical cord). Just a personal preference as long as the speed/lenght of throw/etc. factors are OK.



paintxpert said:
DAs are junk and you cant do any paint correction with them PERIOD!... You cannot do it with a DA ...besides its in pieces against the wall by this time!
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Huh? I've removed even deep scratches via DA (and by rotary). The DA does the job just fine, if a bit slower. BTDT, as have many here. Saying the DA can't do what so many of us have accomplished and witnessed first-hand strikes me as a :nono as it just isn't so.



And there's a big difference between the various types of DAs available these days. IMO you can't just dismiss all such machines with a blanket statement that they're junk.
 
paintxpert said:
DAs are junk and you cant do any paint correction with them PERIOD! All do respect of course! Go to advancedautopolishing.com and see my pics. Da work does not create friction....no friction ....no correction on the substraight surface. PERIOD! BLACK is my specialty my customers test my abilities daily....they dont want wheel marks! I have a customer with 80 black stretches. He does NOT want wheel marks on his cars yet he washes them with a brush and bucket. I rejuvenate each one every time I do them. You cannot do it with a DA ...besides its in pieces against the wall by this time! All the best...PRACTICE makes perfect. Keep at it. Be Well!
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Well I would have to disagree here with this. The right pad, product , and machine can do alot. Since your talking about a D/A I'm gonna think your talking about either a porter cable or a air sander. Now with the right pressure on either one of these machines you can do some serious correction. I'll bet if you put done that rotory for a night and played with a true d/a and thought outside the box. It may change alot of things that you think. I'm not saying I use a d/a for correction. I'm simply saying a D/A is a defect killer.



http://www.autopia.org/forum/machine-polishing/116878-surbuf-pad-paired-m105-pc-defect-killer.html
 
Accumulator said:


Huh? I've removed even deep scratches via DA (and by rotary). The DA does the job just fine, if a bit slower. BTDT, as have many here. Saying the DA can't do what so many of us have accomplished and witnessed first-hand strikes me as a :nono as it just isn't so.
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Definitely agree (and I use both).
 
Hi I'm new to this forum. This has probably been talked about but... I've been using System One Cutting Polish and a Chicago Electric rotary buffer with a 7.5" wool cutting pad and then a 7.5" foam polishing pad. I buff at 1000-1500 rpm and apply light pressure. Once I'm done with the process I can still see a few swirl marks. Am I doing anything wrong? Thank you for your help!
 
You guys are right. I just never used a da. So it is not right for me to say they cant correct paint. That would be narrow minded. Can I retract my statements and apologize to those who are successful @ this method. I think time is an issue ...I can do it quicker with my worn wool pad and Presta 1500 then Smooth it out with a finish pad and I am done. The guy down the street uses a da and cars take him 8 hours to do. Please accept my apologies for being hasty.
 
All the advice above is GREAT! Remember to do what works for you. Where aface mask and GOGGLES. I also wear ear protection and aback brace. The average car takes me an hour to polish. If I compound the car is polished twice. Go to you tube and watch it done. The Makita is anice light choice. Dont use too much product it will cake in the pad. Good Luck!
 
paintxpert said:
You guys are right. I just never used a da. So it is not right for me to say they cant correct paint.. Please accept my apologies for being hasty.
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That was a cool thing to post :xyxthumbs



Yeah, to do *timely* correction via DA you definitely need the right DA, the right pads/products, and the right technique. Otherwise it *can* take a long, long time.



The latest machine/pad/product combos are simply amazing compared to what was available just a short time ago; I really don't need to reach for my rotaries for much of anything any more (though it's sure nice to have them for when something requires some *VERY* serious work).
 
hey does anyone use a dewalt 849, im new to this site but been buffing for a bit its what i learned with. Am i missing out on anything other than safety
 
Buff Guys Auto said:
hey does anyone use a dewalt 849, im new to this site but been buffing for a bit its what i learned with. Am i missing out on anything other than safety
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A few guys here use those, or at least they used to (forget just who though...). Nothing wrong with the Dewalt if the weight doesn't bother you, and it's still lighter than a Milwaukee. IIRC the Dewalts have a good reputation for reliability.
 
Based off of this thread you should not be using much over 1500 rpm when using a PC. The new xp runs at a minimum of 2500, should the pcxp be avoided for someone new to machine polishing?



Also, is there a guide somewhere on pads and possibly even polishes as far as cutting strenght goes?
 
Redem said:
Based off of this thread you should not be using much over 1500 rpm when using a PC. The new xp runs at a minimum of 2500, should the pcxp be avoided for someone new to machine polishing?



Also, is there a guide somewhere on pads and possibly even polishes as far as cutting strenght goes?
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Da's run by OPM not RPM. All da's including the Flex is very safe for a beginner.
 
Legacy99 said:
Da's run by OPM not RPM. All da's including the Flex is very safe for a beginner.
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:werd:



Its near impossible to damage your paint with a 7424xp. You can run that thing at 6000opm with a yellow pad and a agressive compound and it would take you a year to take off enough clear coat to do any real damage. :buffing:
 
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