Rotary Usage

I did it, I bought a dewalt 849. I tried a small section on the hood of my sisters car! I used edge blue light cutting and ssr2.5 at 1000/1300rpm, I have lots of practicing to do. The polisher did a lil dace a few times on me, I think this was do to a bit of dry buffing. So I tried the section again, still I was left with some haze. All the swirls were removed with the exception of a few deep scratches. So I took out the pc edge polishing pad and ssr1, worked it well two applications. All the swirls were gone, and all the hazing was gone.



I love to use SSR2.5 with my PC, But I might need to start look at some products that work a little longer for dewalt.



Any suggestion?



PS: i would of tried #80 or #83 but, i took them out and they were all caked up in the bottle? #80 was caked and turned a lil green and #83 i shook till dealth, would not mix?
 
I remember seeing a thread on rotary use, were they describe left to right, right to left, and say to pay attention to the section between 12 + 3 o'clock position, or something to this nature.





I ask this because the buffer tried to get away a few times pulling in a direction I was not aiming for. should the pad really be 100% flat? or at least at all times?



how do you control it better using trialling edge, leading edge etc.
 
I have just purchased a rotary to add to my detailing inventory and after reading this entire thread I am now eager to try it out I will try it out on the wife's Hyundai first and gradually work up to my pride and Joy! Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread as it is a wealth of knowledge and without the good people out there who are willing to take the time to share their experiences and expertise with the rest of us there would be far less enthusiasts!:goodjob
 

Attachments

  • Nyne11100_1237.jpg
    Nyne11100_1237.jpg
    91.3 KB · Views: 90


BradE said:
Absorb this information grasshopper, more to come.
Click to expand...



kungfu4.jpg








 
In my eyes, pads should always be 100% flat on the surface at all times

Not doing so causes swirls
 
Then what causes the swirls that body shop detailers put in. Dry pad thats clogged with polish?
 
Not sure, it could be a number of issues most likely it's related to either incorrect compound or pad usage. Swirls could be marring from an aggresive compound that they haven't polished out.



I use the edge of my pads from time to time even though I agree with the flat pad rule you stated earlier. I even used a wool (acrylic) pad on this panel and used the edge to speed up cutting in certain areas.



Stage_1_01.jpg




closeup:



Before_01.jpg




Risky I know and not technically perfect but I have a little experience and know what I am doing. I did leave behind hideous marring but corrected the swirling and holograming behind and acheived this finish after an alcohol wipe (no lsp):



Stage_3_01.jpg




closeup:



Hood_After_Polish_04.jpg
 
I saw someone above mention a concern of mine, and that is holding the pad at a slight angle versus 100 percent flat. I'm inexperienced, probably the number one reason why, but when I try to hold the machine flat, it wants to go in it's own direction.



Also, is it necessary to give a pad a spray with QD before buffing, and what is the proper way (direction) to move along vertical panels?



Thank you.
 
Use a smaller pad. There is obviously too much grip on the pad. I use a 6" versus the notmal 8" when I experience that problem.



It may or may nto work for you but it's definately worth a shot, reducing friction via this method seems to work for me.



d.
 
You missed the wiper arms damian.

A little aussie gold would give that panel some extra bling.
 
Haha, your missing out

I'm referring to Showroom Glaze. There ain't no other QD that can match it or last as long



Well that's one thing that I have over you, I love doing wiper arms with my trim dream.

I personally believe that they make a big difference to the overall look.



When I order products, Barry makes them up according to my specifications. If I want a longer working time, different colour or an ingredient removed, he does it.

I give him my feedback on any products and he makes changes.



Aussie Gold Clear Cut (my version)



mgfrearquarterafteraussiegold-1.jpg


mgfrearquarter3-1.jpg
 
ah huh, I understand now why you pushing this Aussie Gold stuff so hard :D





I don't like glazes Matt, no clarity.

I'll stick to this high clarity carnauba instead:



Royale_Wax_01.sized.jpg
 
ICANDY said:
Use a smaller pad. There is obviously too much grip on the pad. I use a 6" versus the notmal 8" when I experience that problem.



It may or may nto work for you but it's definately worth a shot, reducing friction via this method seems to work for me.



d.
Click to expand...

The pads I use are 6".
 
ICANDY said:
ah huh, I understand now why you pushing this Aussie Gold stuff so hard :D





I don't like glazes Matt, no clarity.

I'll stick to this high clarity carnauba instead:



Royale_Wax_01.sized.jpg
Click to expand...
]



Don't confuse Showroom glaze with 3M imperial hand glaze or other filler glaze

It's just a top quick detailer with sealant that just happens to enhance the finish every time you use it and last longer than some pure sealants

The clarity on my car from it is simply outstanding IMO



I've gone right away from waxes, won't have any in my shop from now on

Not saying your wrong or I'm right, we just have varying products, style's and opinions which I think is good.



Only reason I've promoted it so much is because it works brilliantly and craps all over all but one of the QD's that I have bought. All these so called great QD's like FK 425, UQD, CG's extreme slick, Zaino Z8 etc are like water compared to it and Driven's Concentrated QD

Especially in the slickness, shine,clarity, wetness and also that it is machine applyable and polishes and protects windows, wheels, interiors and more.
 
I have a question about selecting a rotary machine.



Many (not all) of the higher-end rotaries I see people mention (dewalt etc) have variable speeds that START at 1000 RPM. What gives? Is it important for a rotary to be able to spin slower than 1000?
 
Check out Makita 9227, 600 rpm to start and you get the "slow start" feature, think of it as letting the clutch out slowly.
 
My thoughts after using a rotary for the first time this past weekend.



Don't be scared of it. If you start out at a lower RPM until you get the feel of it you will have more time to react to it trying pull you all over the place. It took me most of the hood to start to get comfortable so thats 4 passes over a pretty big hood. Using smaller 6" pads will help as well I found the 8" pad would drag me all over. Once you feel like your getting the hang of it just up the speed a bit. Each time you change surface I would lower the speed. I went back to about 800RPM when I started on the C pillars, doors bumpers etc each pass i upped the RPM a few 100.



It's not at all what I expected I thought I would spend the entire time scared to death that I was going to burn the paint. As long as you keep moving and watch your speed you will be fine. My Rotary has a trigger that operates like a throttle no the on off that the PC has. That makes it great for cutting in and picking up product.



Like anything in life your not born with experience that you get by doing so get out there and try it.
 
I have read all these pages several times. I also purchased my Makita several weeks ago. I finally broke it out. I washed my DD F-150 and went to town. My experience was fantastic with a white polishing pad and slow speeds. I have a new truck. Yes, I burned a small spot on the tailgate. It's not as bad as I would have thought. I will keep practicing, but I'm not scared after all the help from my fellow Autopians.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top