New M105 is kicking but w/ KB method

gmblack3a said:
... I did buy a spare [PC] when I decided the KBM was for me.
Click to expand...



Probably a good idea :xyxthumbs I bought a spare PC when my first one needed a rebuild after just a little use and the KMB might be a little hard on 'em.



Wonder how well the KMB can be adapted to my Cyclos :think:
 
I haven't been keeping up with this as well as I should, but have there been any updates? I'm looking forward to buying some products with the 15% memorial day sales going on now...
 
Oops, forgot to post this earlier: If this (ab)use does kill PCs, rebuilds cost even less than discounted new ones. I forget what it cost to rebuild my older one, but it was maybe $75 or so.



I'm more worried about killing my Flex 3401, and I'm gonna pull the plate now and then and keep an eye on the teeth of that ring gear. IMO *that* machine is the one you pros might need a spare for.
 
I pulled my Cyclo out of semi-retirement (been relying on Flex lately) to give this method a try. I could only get my hands on the original M105, but it still seemed to work well (but with vast quantities of dusting). I'm looking forward to getting some of the new version of M105 to extend the working time a bit. Other than a couple of quirks you have to get used to (like wiping off your pads with a MF every section or two), I was pretty pleased. Swirl marks and shallower RIDS were gone with one application using Cyclo green pads, and the finish was close to LSP ready. I relied on Ultima's paint cleanser as a second step, and the metallic blue finished very nicely.



I'm happy this method is working out for me . . . I've missed using my Cyclo. :)



Tort
 
Here are some of the corrections I have done with the KBM:



This one was M105 only, no final polishing yet:



img1084.jpg




If I remember right, these where all followed with M205:



img1218.jpg




img0895m.jpg




img0650.jpg




img0531h.jpg
 
lostdaytomorrow said:
How does M105 compare to SIP in terms of cutting ability on Ceramiclear (Hard clear on Vettes/Benz/etc.)?
Click to expand...



I found M105 to have just a little less cutting ability than SIP on Vette clear coats.
 
Heh heh, all the people apparently holding their breath over this might oughta just do a few corrections with M105 and learn by doing.
 
So basically KBM is just priming the pad with compound and removing excess product on a MF towel then start polishing on a PC? What about light cutting with light-medium polish?
 
GS4_Fiend said:
So basically KBM is just priming the pad with compound and removing excess product on a MF towel then start polishing on a PC? What about light cutting with light-medium polish?
Click to expand...



same method just using a lighter polish and a different pad. And aside from the pad priming piece, the KB method also is centered around using non dimishing abrasives (like M105/205) not dimishing abrasives (like Menzerna).



don't spritz the surface or pad with QD like some people do and change the pad frequently.
 
dublifecrisis said:
..don't spritz the surface or pad with QD like some people do and change the pad frequently.
Click to expand...



Hmm...am I being a complete, uhm... "KBM heretic" by spritzing the pad to reactivate my M105 instead of using a new pad?



Also, it's my (far from complete) understanding that the varying degrees of applied pressure is a big part of the KBM.



TortoiseAWD said:
I pulled my Cyclo out of semi-retirement (been relying on Flex lately) to give this method a try... Swirl marks and shallower RIDS were gone with one application using Cyclo green pads, and the finish was close to LSP ready. I relied on Ultima's paint cleanser as a second step, and the metallic blue finished very nicely...I'm happy this method is working out for me . . . I've missed using my Cyclo.
Click to expand...



Ah, I somehow missed the above post! Glad you're getting some use out of the Cyclo again. I woulda tried it myself but the contours of the project at hand don't lend themselves to that particular machine.
 
Hey all, haven't been here or posted in a while. I've seen a lot of posts referring to some "KBM" method for polishing with the PC. Isn't this the same as a lot of us have done for years, except now we have M105. Years ago I said you are wasting your time if your not using a lot of pressure and going slow with the PC. The only difference now is the introduction of the non-diminishing abrasives in M105. Is this correct? I use to remove nasty heavy swirling from black paint with a PC, but usually needed 2 more steps to clear things up. Now we can go strait to a finishing polish. I recently tried M105 with my PC, as my rotary is being repaired, and find it rather remarkable. I've done a few cars with a white LC pad and with a Megs cutting pad with fantastic results. Then finished with 106FA to a perfect finish. The process however is just the same as I have always done, it's the M105 that makes the difference. just my .2 worth.
 
DSVWGLI said:
.. Isn't this the same as a lot of us have done for years, except now we have M105..
Click to expand...



Yeah, there are certain aspects that're old hat to some of us, but I'm still looking forward to seeing the whole thing put together into a coherent whole.
 
Accumulator just spread some more m105 on the pad like you would to prime it but don't put any where near as much as you would.



After priming the pad and working however much I can, I put about 3-4 small dabs and spread it around the pad evenly to lubricate it again.



I don't know if this is the correct method but its worked for me and cuts down on dusting a lot. This is with version 1.



After repriming the pad 2-3 times I spin the pad in an mf to clean it and reprime again or change pads all together.



I haven't noticed any loss of cut by doing this nor have I noticed any extra marring.
 
Accumulator - I think adding QD in the picture was said to increase the risk of marring etc because it would dillute the lubricant that is already in the polish/compound. Otherwise, yes many times we want to extend the working time or add an extra pass or two.
 
Dsoto87- Yeah, though adding more product makes for more frequent pad cleaning, more noticeably it seems with v2.0.



I do best by massaging the added product into the pad a bit as opposed to leaving it on there as dots/drops.



dublifecrisis- Depending on the paint, reactivating with water seems to sometimes make M105 work *better* for me, just the ticket on my M3. I never really experienced the clumping and resultant marring that others have mentioned, but then I'm pretty fanatical about cleaning the pads out frequently.
 
Yea accumulator that's exactly what I'm talking about. I'm basically putting the polish on just for the oils/lubricant since the abrasives are already well spread.



One of these days I will try the QD/water thing. I don't see why it would clump anything up if you were to spray the panel. Have you tried spraying the panel?
 
Dsoto87 said:
Yea accumulator that's exactly what I'm talking about. I'm basically putting the polish on just for the oils/lubricant since the abrasives are already well spread.



One of these days I will try the QD/water thing. I don't see why it would clump anything up if you were to spray the panel. Have you tried spraying the panel?
Click to expand...



Too much risk of splatter spraying the panel. yeah, I'm *very* paranoid about that :D



If the paint is really soft I'd be leery of doing this with M105, and M205 has plenty of lubricating oils in it anyhow..sorta weird how well M205 can keep working well even though it sure seems like the pad needs more product. As long as the pad keeps moving smoothly I just keep going until I figure the pad needs cleaned out.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top