New M105 is kicking but w/ KB method

On the topic of destroying pads due to the increased pressure...I too had this issue. I ordered several 5.5' orange pads and use them with a 6" backing plate and this solved my issues with pads coming apart. KBM is still harder on pads than normal polishing but they don't come apart like the others did. Obviously you have to use extreme caution when using a pad that's slightly smaller than the backing plate so use at your own risk.



Andy
 
It still crazy to see those results with a PC and 6.5" pad. I use 4" pads all the time with a PC bc when I tried ther larger pads I would not get the results.
 
I have tried the method with 5.5 orange flat pad by LC, yellow and burgandy 2.0 by Megs, all of which are destroyed in short order. I like the KBM best with purple foamed wool/105 and my rotary, now that is a killer method. One must however follow up the hazing with a secondary polishing.



The pad makers need to redesign for the pressure issue, wonder if a dual foam combo, one to polish and an inner to handle the heat/pressure.



Cheers,

GREG
 
Greg, How many pads are you using per car and how many cars are they lasting for?



I have 5 of the ABC's that I rotate thru on a detail. I have done 4-5 cars with them and they are still holding up well.
 
what about the 3m soft pads for fill to separate the bp from pad?



I have been using 3m RC Perfect IT 2 5974? w/ LC orange KBM pc/6 super heavy pressure and just killing defects. This is at work so I dont have halogens but it will clean up if stepped down I just dont know how bad the swirling/hazing is on its own.



I really like how it slowly rounds the edges of deeper rids.
 
sal329 said:
It still crazy to see those results with a PC and 6.5" pad. I use 4" pads all the time with a PC bc when I tried ther larger pads I would not get the results.
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Yeah, same here..the larger pads don't work well for me when doing major correction, even with M105. But I was working on hard clear too and I haven't tried M105 (on a larger pad) on softer paints. Not sure I will either as I have a lot of milder products to use up and if they'll do the job I want to save the M105 for hard paint.



What I don't get is people applying a lot of pressure without bogging the PC to where it merely "jiggles". (Note that I used 5" pads on mine for years when I first started using PCs, so I believe I understand the diff between a 5-5.5" pad and the 6-6.5" ones.) If I apply significant pressure with anything larger than a 4" pad both my PCs merely jiggle. Yeah, the Flex is another matter altogether, but I'm still :confused: about people applying pressure to their PCs with large pads on them :nixweiss
 
the correction is amazing with the pressure...w/out it you may as well get out the rotary.



I cant stop it from spinning but I really lean on it till its almost broken down then give it one pass with light pressure then maybe a spritz of water. with the 3m RC PI2 you really got to keep the pad clean.



to prime I fill every dot on the ccs orange pad.
 
Polished&Waxed said:
the correction is amazing with the pressure...w/out it you may as well get out the rotary...
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Or a 4" pad...or the Flex ;)

I cant stop it from spinning but I really lean on it..
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Huh...I can stop it from spinning quite easily with pads larger than 4". Both my PCs act the same way and did since new (and right after the rebuild on the older one) :think:



.. with the 3m RC PI2 you really got to keep the pad clean.
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to prime I fill every dot on the ccs orange pad.[/QUOTE]



Also gotta wear a good mask to avoid breathing the silica dust. I prefer the PI-III RC 05933 but yeah the PI-II FCRC is good if you don't mind having to wear the mask.
 
With using the KBPCM or KBRM, I wonder what kind of life you'll get out of your machines using this method on a constant basis. I mean, if it takes a toll on your pads, it must have some sort of adverse affect on the machines themselves but I may be mistaken. I guess you could call is extraneous "stress" on the machine perhaps?
 
I have been using Kevin's priming method since October and have yet to destroy or damage a single pad.



How much pressure are you guys using? The pad should be rotating 3-10 times per second for defect removal.
 
Denzil said:
With using the KBPCM or KBRM, I wonder what kind of life you'll get out of your machines using this method on a constant basis. I mean, if it takes a toll on your pads, it must have some sort of adverse affect on the machines themselves but I may be mistaken. I guess you could call is extraneous "stress" on the machine perhaps?
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$115 shipped for a PC, no big deal if I get 2 years out of it.



PorscheGuy997 said:
I have been using Kevin's priming method since October and have yet to destroy or damage a single pad.



How much pressure are you guys using? The pad should be rotating 3-10 times per second for defect removal.
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I have only distroyed one surbuf pad so far and that was my own doing.



jmkiang said:
Question: do people use an IPA wipedown between "hits" of 105? Is its a 2:1 dilution?
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I always use straight IPA. Sometimes with OG M105 I need to use IPA to remove the M105. If I have to go over an area 2x, I always do at least 3x straight IPA wipedowns to make sure the defects are gone.
 
^ Straight IPA on a MF towel? Nice nice. I will have to incorporate that into my work.



Do you only do this with M105? I've been using ZPC and as long as I polish / buff one panel at a time, removal is a piece of cake. I just ordered some M105 /M205 samplers so I'm excited to attack a swirly black car and see just how good this KBM is!
 
jmkiang said:
^ Straight IPA on a MF towel? Nice nice. I will have to incorporate that into my work.



Do you only do this with M105? I've been using ZPC and as long as I polish / buff one panel at a time, removal is a piece of cake. I just ordered some M105 /M205 samplers so I'm excited to attack a swirly black car and see just how good this KBM is!
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Yes, If 105 becomes a PITA to remove with a untreated MF, I spray straight IPA on a MF then wipe it off. IME the newer DA approved M105 is easier to wipe off when doing the KBM then the OG M105.



Then I do at least 3x straight IPA wipedowns to ensure there is no filling.



With ZPC I too can polish a panel or two then remove it with ease.



lostdaytomorrow said:
How does M105 compare to SIP in terms of cutting ability on Ceramiclear (Hard clear on Vettes/Benz/etc.)?
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If M105 is a 10 cut on a 1-10 scale, SIP is a 5 w/ a PC and a 7 with a rotary.



Via PC there is no comparision, when using the KBM M105 will easily outcut SIP on any type of paint. I always recommend a straight 3x IPA wipedown after any polishing.



Remember Menzerna designed SIP to work with a rotary, its a very nice polish when used properly. I used to follow 3M ECC with SIP on many Corvette details. Still had to finish out with UF or 085RD.
 
Denzil said:
Hey but if you can get 3 years out of it, that would be even better. :)
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I'd rather be busy enough to buy a new one every year. :)



This Nov my PC will be 4 yrs old. It did not get much use at all for 2 years. I did buy a spare when I decided the KBM was for me.
 
gmblack3a said:
I'd rather be busy enough to buy a new one every year. :)



This Nov my PC will be 4 yrs old. It did not get much use at all for 2 years. I did buy a spare when I decided the KBM was for me.
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Hey if I could afford it, I would too. ;)
 
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