Japanese Paint Sealant Advice

J

joseph-98

New member
I'm hoping someone can give me some thoughts and advice on a paint sealant process that is available here in Japan?



The sealant is available through Toyota dealers and is called "QMI Glass Sealant" though the glass part refers to the fact that the acutally paint sealant is in essence a coating of "glass" above the clearcote. I can't find much information about the coating outside of Japan, but it appears another company is begining to offer the coating outside of Japan. What I did find was this:



Glass Coating



and an English language PDF



The coating seems to be quite popular here, my neighbor had his Toyota van coated from new, and 2 years later it's still waterspot and swirl-mark free. I usually prefer to hand wax myself, put my latest daily driver (Toyota 4runner) is a little bit too time consuming!



Any help, advice, thoughts appreciated.
 
Never heard of it. Nice marketing in the link. The X scratch test is common in the automotive industry. I used to use this to test waxes and sealants that I used on my own car.



We had many environmental chambers to test paint durability under sun, water, grit, salt, etc. Reproduced many thousands of miles very quickly. I piggybacked mine into my own corners of the panels.



Best stuff I ever found back then came from JC Whitney. I forget the name of the product. Stuff left everything else in the dust over and over again. Maybe it was called Dura...something.
 
i detailed last week a F-355 that was imported from Japan.the owner told me that the car had this sealant on the car and he paid about 1700 Euro to have this sealant..the car had a lot of swirls but he told me that the swirls where there before the sealant had applied...i think it is another marketing trick because the soft Ferrari paint was scratched very easily by an MF towel before i tried to polish it....
 
Also check this at the end

*1 The coat thickness of 2 µm does not protect against heavy stone chips and similar damage to paintwork. Please choose a wax- and silicone-free textile car wash, as plastic brushes can damage or remove the coating.

If it can removed so easily why to use it??
 
Wow looks like the whole paint sealant scheme is still alive and well. This is similar to Rejex and Liquid Glass. And they charge 1700 euros, I wonder how much they got them for in Japan. I like to tell people just because it's from Japan doesn't mean it's absolutely light years ahead of our stone age stuff. People seem to fall in love with and become fanboys of anything JDM. You can get liquid glass at pep boys for 20 bucks do it yourself and save 980 bucks. It's the "authority" that being a dealership that lets them get away with what amounts to a waxing for $1000 on up.
 
Nonono, coatings have basically nothing in common with sealants. Yep, they can be very expensive, but some of the better ones can be as hard as MOHS 6-7, and that's serious business.



They shed water like mad, usually better than most LSPs and last significantly longer.
 
The word "coating" in Japanese is in fact the same meaning as "sealant" in English. Any chemical wax or sealant is referred to as "coating", including the ones you can buy at Yellow Hat, etc.



Because of the basically zero consumer protection that exists here companies make the most outrageous claims for protection and durability, and so many swallow it hook, line and sinker. I've never seen any "coating" last longer that 4-5 months, even though the companies often "guarantee" up to 5 years(!!) durability:spit:



I have many Japanese detailing and body shop friends, and if you asked any of them (confidentially) if you really get even 1 year protection, they'd laugh out loud.



Do yourself a favor and import something like Collinite 845, Zaino Z-5 or 1Z Glanz Wax and do the car yourself.



Todd
 
Thanks for the imput. I was pretty dubious about the 5 year claim myself. Though Toyota have said that only applies to cars coated from new.



My weekend toy is a BNR34 GTR that I have polymer coated yearly at a company in Tokyo. The coating only lasts a year at most, but it has helped keep the car swirl and water spot free and on the whole I've been very pleased with the results. I can tell though, that the protection begins to degrade after about 8 to 10 months, and that is on a car that is never driven in the rain and spends most of it's life under a cover. My daily driver exposed to all the elements will likely have the coating degrade in a much faster rate.



obviously a DIY sealant or waxing would be the cheapest option, but I don't have a lot of free time to spend polishing and waxing a daily driver, although I would like to keep it looking as clean and presentable as possible...
 
Bence said:
Nonono, coatings have basically nothing in common with sealants. Yep, they can be very expensive, but some of the better ones can be as hard as MOHS 6-7, and that's serious business.



They shed water like mad, usually better than most LSPs and last significantly longer.
Click to expand...



I would like to buy some and try it by my self....if they are really hard that means that my soft CC on my Honda will be protected from the extremely light swirs??
 
Todd, no, Porta lives in Sweden, but he has pretty extensive knowledge/experience with various coatings.



I just have 2 of them (a Japanese and an American), but my experiences are still limited to speak about them conclusively.
 
percynjpn said:
The word "coating" in Japanese is in fact the same meaning as "sealant" in English. Any chemical wax or sealant is referred to as "coating", including the ones you can buy at Yellow Hat, etc.



Because of the basically zero consumer protection that exists here companies make the most outrageous claims for protection and durability, and so many swallow it hook, line and sinker. I've never seen any "coating" last longer that 4-5 months, even though the companies often "guarantee" up to 5 years(!!) durability:spit:



I have many Japanese detailing and body shop friends, and if you asked any of them (confidentially) if you really get even 1 year protection, they'd laugh out loud.



Do yourself a favor and import something like Collinite 845, Zaino Z-5 or 1Z Glanz Wax and do the car yourself.



Todd
Click to expand...

no, these are called Glass Coating that use polysilazane.



As for the friends who laugh at the idea of a coating that can last 2-3 years. Well, maybe they dont know about it. It is relatively new and very difficult to get hold off - you can buy poor imitations in SuperAutoBacs. Also, the quality of most detailers in this country is appalling. These coatings require a full prep or the clearcoat will by soften by the trapped containments.



GTC are ok, but not great.



GT-C = glass TEX coat =



They spray the coating on using a paintgun.





The biggest problem with the glass coating is the look and shine. It look plastic and too shiny.



From the cars Ive worked on and seen with the coating - Sonax are trialling some through Este Import - the durability is superb. Strong enough for a fair few coin-washes.



The market for this type of coating is rapidly expanding here/ Ive had requests already for this work.
 
dazzerjp said:
no, these are called Glass Coating that use polysilazane.



As for the friends who laugh at the idea of a coating that can last 2-3 years. Well, maybe they dont know about it. It is relatively new and very difficult to get hold off - you can buy poor imitations in SuperAutoBacs. Also, the quality of most detailers in this country is appalling. These coatings require a full prep or the clearcoat will by soften by the trapped containments.



GTC are ok, but not great.



GT-C = glass TEX coat =



They spray the coating on using a paintgun.





The biggest problem with the glass coating is the look and shine. It look plastic and too shiny.



From the cars Ive worked on and seen with the coating - Sonax are trialling some through Este Import - the durability is superb. Strong enough for a fair few coin-washes.



The market for this type of coating is rapidly expanding here/ Ive had requests already for this work.
Click to expand...



Thanks for the reply. My neighbors Hiace is white, so it's difficult to see the effect on the shine, but from what I've seen it looks OK (IMHO). My Surf is also white, so I don't think this will be too much of a problem. I'm really looking for something that will protect the paint, save me from waxing and if possible last more than a year.



Would it be possible to wax on top of the glass coating in order to increase it's longevity? Toyota mentioned I would need to bring the car back in at least once a year for "sealant maintenance", which would cost around 10,000 yen (that works out a lot cheaper than 30,000 to 40,000 yen every year to have a regular polymer coat renewed...
 
I understand that the new so-called "glass" coatings are made of different chemicals than the traditional "coatings"; as to whether or not they last 2-3 years, do you have any experience with their durability (ie, the ones you've applied the glass coating to)? Maybe my friends "don't know about it" - how about you? If you have any experience, please fill us in - have you seen that kind of durability in the cars you've actually done?





From the cars Ive worked on and seen with the coating - Sonax are trialling some through Este Import - the durability is superb. Strong enough for a fair few coin-washes.



The market for this type of coating is rapidly expanding here/ Ive had requests already for this work.



So you're basing your opinions on what previous detailers have claimed they've done

, not your own actual use and observation of the products? Please report your experiences after you have fulfilled the "requests [you've] already had for this work".



Todd
 
Why it makes the paint softer??if it is a ''glass coating'' isn't it more logic to have a ''harder'' paint??
 
A mohs hardness of 5 or 6? I know of no chemical that dries to that kind of hardness. And all the true physical coating processes that apply a coating of material that hard are mineral based and must be deposited under extreme conditions like vacuum and plasma discharge which would probably ruin the paint. I mean yes my glasses which are made of soft plastic have remained scratch free because of such a coating, but I know that it can't be duplicated on a very large scale because it must be done in a vacuum chamber, which I highly doubt they do, yes even in Japan they wouldn't put a whole car in a vacuum chamber.



I'm kinda a scientist by nature, and studying manufacturing engineering so I know a little bit about manufacturing processes, and unless someone can tell me what is in these "coatings" or the process used to give paint a hardcoat then all I can assume is that it's a wax or synthetic sealant (most likely a polysiloxane) which would match the "special" characteristics described in the advertisements. Nothing special even those claiming teflon this or nano that is just another wax/sealant. I hate that nano is the new buzzword, I tried eagle one's nano wax, the one in the lotion applicator bottle, and it made my swirls more visible and lasted only about 2 weeks in a Connecticut snowy salty winter. But I fear that with ever increasing advancements in technology it is getting even easier to dupe the general lay population, so it's time people educate themselves. Forums like this one do tend to help though so yay 7 posts in hopefully what will be a long line in informing people and dispelling myths and mysteries.
 
qwertydude said:
A mohs hardness of 5 or 6? I know of no chemical that dries to that kind of hardness. And all the true physical coating processes that apply a coating of material that hard are mineral based and must be deposited under extreme conditions like vacuum and plasma discharge which would probably ruin the paint. I mean yes my glasses which are made of soft plastic have remained scratch free because of such a coating, but I know that it can't be duplicated on a very large scale because it must be done in a vacuum chamber, which I highly doubt they do, yes even in Japan they wouldn't put a whole car in a vacuum chamber.



I'm kinda a scientist by nature, and studying manufacturing engineering so I know a little bit about manufacturing processes, and unless someone can tell me what is in these "coatings" or the process used to give paint a hardcoat then all I can assume is that it's a wax or synthetic sealant (most likely a polysiloxane) which would match the "special" characteristics described in the advertisements. Nothing special even those claiming teflon this or nano that is just another wax/sealant. I hate that nano is the new buzzword, I tried eagle one's nano wax, the one in the lotion applicator bottle, and it made my swirls more visible and lasted only about 2 weeks in a Connecticut snowy salty winter. But I fear that with ever increasing advancements in technology it is getting even easier to dupe the general lay population, so it's time people educate themselves. Forums like this one do tend to help though so yay 7 posts in hopefully what will be a long line in informing people and dispelling myths and mysteries.
Click to expand...

Nice write....I can imagine that any company will ever create such a product...If there is such product that means, at least for 5 years, the other companies will not sell polish,sealant,wax,glazes,shampoo, etc etc....That means that Menzerna Meguiar's Autoglym and all the other companies,they have to close their factories forever, something that i cannot even imagine....There are a lot of money there,to allowed this happened....I like detailing my car but i would like also to give it just a quick wash without marring my paint,and worry about the low level of my CC because of polishing my car to remove swirls etc....

Just my thoughts....
 
Has anyone any empirical experience with for example G'Zox Real Glass Coat, Bliss, D Crystal, Defense Pro, etc., or alternatively Swedecoat, Nyalic, Matrix and the likes?



Matt uses Nyalic, Porta has experience with PPS, Swedecoat...
 
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