FK1000p Beginner questions

Accumulator said:
Older & Mooser- I always dismissed the variable speed feature as a solution in search of a problem, but maybe that was short sighted.

Did you guys apply at full speed or dial it down?

Ever try doing the buff-off with MF bonnets on the Cyclo? I do kinda like that, even if I don`t bother doing it very often.

Older- Huh, never noticed the bug attraction, but then I`m working indoors too. And yeah, both of my Cyclos have the short cord, I`ve never even seen one with a longer one.

Mooser- Yeah, running a Cyclo is about as close as I come to enjoying such stuff.
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I had to go out and look at the speed setting. Apparently,I just leave it on 5 and let it do it`s thing. I don`t remember the last time I changed the speed setting.

I`ve never tried removal with the Cyclo. Interesting,though. I wonder how many bonnets you would need.

They make a 10 foot cord. I`ll pass on that. If they made a 25 foot cord,I`d replace mine,(the cord,not the machine).
 
Surly- Heh heh, I`m somehow not surprised that you just leave it set on the speed of the older ones. That`s what I figured I`d do :D

Eh, don`t let me spend your money regarding the buffing off via Cyclo...it`s probably just something I kinda like doing. Still have to do a little by hand anyhow, whether you 1) get it off mostly by hand and then just give it a final going-over by machine, or 2) do the IMO more practical thing and get ~95% off by Cyclo and then finish by hand.

Ah, a 10` cord, that`sl better than the short little things that mine have. I figured it was some kind of "using the right gauge cord is up to the user, so don`t blame us" thing along with the obvious cost-savings.
 
Accumulator said:
Surly- Heh heh, I`m somehow not surprised that you just leave it set on the speed of the older ones. That`s what I figured I`d do :D

Eh, don`t let me spend your money regarding the buffing off via Cyclo...it`s probably just something I kinda like doing. Still have to do a little by hand anyhow, whether you 1) get it off mostly by hand and then just give it a final going-over by machine, or 2) do the IMO more practical thing and get ~95% off by Cyclo and then finish by hand.

Ah, a 10` cord, that`sl better than the short little things that mine have. I figured it was some kind of "using the right gauge cord is up to the user, so don`t blame us" thing along with the obvious cost-savings.
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They wouldn`t even sell me the 10` cord. They referred me to Autog..k to buy a new machine. Yeah,thanks.

Cyclo`s traditional exemplary customer service appears to be a thing of the past. I wonder if Rupes bought them for their patents or designs and will eventually just close Cyclo`s doors.
 
Older said:
They wouldn`t even sell me the 10` cord. They referred me to Autog..k to buy a new machine. Yeah,thanks.

Cyclo`s traditional exemplary customer service appears to be a thing of the past. I wonder if Rupes bought them for their patents or designs and will eventually just close Cyclo`s doors.
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Wow, that`s a real surprise! My latest CS experience with them (post-Rupes) could not have gone better.
 
Accumulator said:
IME FK1000P is, perhaps surprisingly, quite compatible with all sorts of underlying products.
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In my case the underlying product was FK1000P,which it Was not compatible with, due to pseudo holograms.

I`ve dealt with a multitude of different waxes, sealants and coatings.

Never had anything do something like that previously nor since, since I`ve back shelved FK1000P.
 
I put a second coat of FK1000p on both cars,(including the wheels) this weekend. No drama,easy on/off. It’s been 85-90 degrees with 60% humidity.

I forgot to mention that before I used the FK,(a few weeks ago), I clayed, applied HD Speed and a coat of Poxy on each car.

FK1000p is now my go-to,replacing my Collinite 476s and 915.

Thanks,Accumulator!
 
Older- Really glad it`s working so well for you!

And that`s interesteting that it bonds fine to not just Speed but also the Poxy.

How do you like the look compared to the Collinite? I can see some people liking the 476S better; I kinda do on the `93 Audi (but not enough to switch back to it) and I guess I`m really wondering about the 915, which I`ve never used.
 
Accumulator said:
Older- Really glad it`s working so well for you!

And that`s interesteting that it bonds fine to not just Speed but also the Poxy.

How do you like the look compared to the Collinite? I can see some people liking the 476S better; I kinda do on the `93 Audi (but not enough to switch back to it) and I guess I`m really wondering about the 915, which I`ve never used.
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Compared to the FK1000p,the 476s seemed to have a little less “depth” and a little more “candy shell” look to it. I’ve never used the 915 on it. That was on a TorRed Dodge.

The Jaguar is new and it’s only seen the Speed and Poxy before the FK1000p. It’s color is Caesium Blue. Interesting color that really pops in sunlight.

The 915 looked a bit warmer than the 416s on the previous dark colored cars I’ve used it on. On garaged,low mileage cars,the 915 lasted a good 6 months here in Illinois.

I’m now a FK1000p convert. I won’t be going back.
 
Older- Sure glad the FK1000P is working out so well for you, with all my raving about the stuff I sometimes worry that I`ll waste somebody`s money/time/etc. when it doesn`t work as well for *them*.

Interesting take on the Fk1000P vs. Collinite 476S! That`s 100% opposite of how *I* see it on my paints! In fact, I`ve used 476S intentionally on a pal`s MKII Jag just to give it more "depth/jetting" and less of the "candy shell" look! Heh heh, "YMMV!" again :D
 
B)
Accumulator said:
Older- Sure glad the FK1000P is working out so well for you, with all my raving about the stuff I sometimes worry that I`ll waste somebody`s money/time/etc. when it doesn`t work as well for *them*.

Interesting take on the Fk1000P vs. Collinite 476S! That`s 100% opposite of how *I* see it on my paints! In fact, I`ve used 476S intentionally on a pal`s MKII Jag just to give it more "depth/jetting" and less of the "candy shell" look! Heh heh, "YMMV!" again :D
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According to my wife, my perception of color is,well,um, lousy.

As far as $$, I can float the $14.99 it cost me on sale. :-)
 
Here’s a good spot as any

How DO you guys get 476(or any tin wax) on polisher pad. I just got dirty and rubbed my hand and put it on the pad. Lol. Has to be a better way
Phats


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
phatkid77 said:
Here’s a good spot as any

How DO you guys get 476(or any tin wax) on polisher pad. I just got dirty and rubbed my hand and put it on the pad. Lol. Has to be a better way
Phats


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I used a putty knife.
 
phatkid77 said:
How DO you guys get 476(or any tin wax) on polisher pad.
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I transfer with a plastic razor blade (don`t leave it in the tin), which I`ll be using to scrape the excess off/out of the pad anyhow. Or I`ll just use a 4" pad that fits in the tin, but I`ll still be doing the scraping. IMO most people use a zillion times more product than they need and there`s no upside to that unless there`s something (else) wrong.
 
phatkid77 said:
Here’s a good spot as any

How DO you guys get 476(or any tin wax) on polisher pad. I just got dirty and rubbed my hand and put it on the pad. Lol. Has to be a better way
Phats


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Anything I`ve used in a tin recently is either soft enough, or close enough to melting around body temperature, that I`ve just rubbed a pad into the tin. For FK1000p, I have a Swissvax grey/black applicator pad that fits the opening perfectly. I set it in, do a 1/8 turn, and I`m good to go. When I used P21S/S100, a little swirl and there was plenty on the applicator.

Now - if I want to apply an LSP by machine and the pad did not fit inside the tin, that might be a different story.
 
I thought I`d jump back into this thread...

My white Edge is now 13 months old, and I just finished washing, claying, and putting a coat of FK1000 on her. I have been putting the FK1000 on manually, but decided to try applying it with my GG6 today. A couple of observations:

  • I felt the FK1000 went on better using the DA. (One of the drawbacks to a white car is seeing where you`ve waxed and where you haven`t). Using the DA I felt I was able to get a more complete, even coating.
  • One pain point to using the DA was having to use a putty knife to apply the FK1000 to the DA pad. Not a huge deal, but it did take a bit of extra time.
  • Although I didn`t put the FK1000 on thick (thanks again, Accumulator, for that valuable tip!), I could tell that using the DA had me use more product than I`d previously used on our cars. And that`s despite scraping the excess of the pad each time.

I`m debating whether to apply a second coat tomorrow. I`ll have to check my initiative meter when I wake up in the morning. :)
 
Hi,
i got noted and have applied FK1000p to the Drivers 1/2 side of the car and Wolfgang 3.0 sealant to the other 50%.
Initial finding is that 3.0 was a touch easier to rub off (dont care) and was also a little bit more glassy to touch.
Both look the same on my Obsidian Black Mercedes.

Will report back in 6 months on longevity as that is all i really care snout in this comparison.
 
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