FK1000p Beginner questions

I know Loach tested the FK vs the fusso on YouTube goes by Wax Mode.

Fusso lasted more aggressive washes


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For those who care, 3 coats applied within about 4-5 days barley provides me any better lasting protection than just one single coat. By 2 months the beading & slickness is heavily reduced. My original guess of 3months is way too unrealistic.
Glad I`m not the only one getting similar durability. Sometimes it lasts a long time for me, but mostly I get about 2-3 before it is completely gone. I think it is sensitive to washing.
 
I sure do wonder about the different durability experiences, but I suppose it`s just all those variations in individual situations.

If I had a LSP, most ANY LSP, die after a couple months I`d be looking for something else. I don`t even plan to keep using Souveran on the Jag if I ever get it out of mothballs. But I bet that garaging our vehicles all the time is a real wildcard that makes a huge diff.

FWIW, I find ZERO evidence of FK1000P degradation from repeated washes with 3D Pink Car Soap and/or Griot`s Car Wash. The FK1000P dies off in areas that get road [stuff] sprayed against them..mainly the sides of the vehicle, not necessarily in areas that get a lot of washing.

Manix- I sure don`t blame you for just doing one coat then. Diminishing returns and all that..

trashmanssd said:
I ran out of steam reading all the posts!

Unerstandable, especially given how I tend to go on... :o

Is it trims safe, as in does it wipe off of trim that you get it on by mistake with out leaving the dreaded white residue?

Short answer- NO, keep it off trim. I`ve used it on trim but put that in the "don`t try this at home, kids!" category as it can go HORRIBLY wrong quite easily.
 
Accumulator - I do like the Megs range and my experience is that you can move one shampoo from one car to another and results can vary. For example On my warm Yellow SS Ute the Megs Wash and Wax is brilliant and adds a little added protection however on our Metalic Grey Mazda its not so good. Enter NXT and both cars looked fantastic and both have FK1000 on them. Reflections are clearer and finish is slick. I have been chasing the Three Standards of Candy Gloss, Reflection, and Glow and NXT delivered on the Warm Yellow Beast best of all. Of course without FK1000 i don`t think it would be there. Do you have a favorite?

Dannyzz- Hey, that`s interesting how the NXT shampoo simply *does it* on the FK1000P!

Being, uhm...how I am :o ....about shampoos, I never would`ve thunk it (let alone tried it), but yes indeed some do really seem to make this LSP pop better/worse.

So how *is* the NXT shampoo? The only Meguiar`s shampoo I`ve ever liked is M62 (though the old M00 was OK for very light cleaning and as a wetsanding lube), and for that price I`d usuallly rather use something better.
 
Dannyzz- Sounds like you found the right shampoo for you alright!

Do you have a favorite?

If you mean "favorite shampoo", then yeah...I like a 50:50 mix of Griot`s and 3D Pink Car Soap. I could live without adding in the Griot`s but I do think it contributes a bit of added lubricity.
 
Do you recommend FK1000p for waxing wheels for winter? I’m sure a ceramic coating will last longer but looking to use my fresh can of FK 1000p before trying out some G5 Wheel Armor.
 
Do you recommend FK1000p for waxing wheels for winter? I’m sure a ceramic coating will last longer but looking to use my fresh can of FK 1000p before trying out some G5 Wheel Armor.
Yeah, works well IME. That`s what I`m using on two (or is it three...yeah 3) vehicles, one of which is a year-round daily driver. Try to get at least two coats on, about 24 hrs apart. Do the maintenance washes with a sorta-strong shampoo mix (instead of a Wheel Cleaner) and use some leaves-stuff-behind product (either a QD or a RW) as the final step. Might not make it all the way through winter, but still a viable approach.

My coated wheels just stay done longer, but they don`t really look/clean up/etc. significantly better than the FK1000P`ed ones. If I thought it was a huge diff I`d coat all my wheels (even have the coating just sitting here).
 
Yeah, works well IME. That`s what I`m using on two (or is it three...yeah 3) vehicles, one of which is a year-round daily driver. Try to get at least two coats on, about 24 hrs apart. Do the maintenance washes with a sorta-strong shampoo mix (instead of a Wheel Cleaner) and use some leaves-stuff-behind product (either a QD or a RW) as the final step. Might not make it all the way through winter, but still a viable approach.

My coated wheels just stay done longer, but they don`t really look/clean up/etc. significantly better than the FK1000P`ed ones. If I thought it was a huge diff I`d coat all my wheels (even have the coating just sitting here).

You put a QD on the wheels after your maintenance wash? I have one coat on now, I’ll add a second. Happy NY!
 
IXLRS- And a Happy New Year to you too :D

Yeah, I almost always use some product that leaves something behind (either a QD, a Rinseless Wash, or a SprayWax) as a drying aid for everything, and I always give the wheels another once-over after it`s all finished. If nothing else, there`s usually some surface rust on the brake rotors that needs taken care of (even when I use the Hyde`s Serum to minimize it).
 
Do you recommend FK1000p for waxing wheels for winter? I’m sure a ceramic coating will last longer but looking to use my fresh can of FK 1000p before trying out some G5 Wheel Armor.

Coatings aside, FK is my hands-down favorite for wheels. I lean more to the Collinite pastes, 476 and 915 on body paint, but neither one lasts near as long as FK1000 on wheels. Must be some substance to the labeling of "Hi-Temp" on the tin.

Bill
 
Billy Jack- I always wonder whether my wheels get as hot as one might think. Well, yeah...on the cars that I push really hard. But for most people, doing most driving, I wonder...

The Collinite 476S was one of my two fave Wheel LSPs (other being KSG) for a long, long time, but didn`t always last through winter.
 
Coatings aside, FK is my hands-down favorite for wheels. Must be some substance to the labeling of "Hi-Temp" on the tin.

Bill

Same here--never had any other sealant last as long on wheels as 2 coats of FK1000. I seem to remember reading that 1000 was originally developed as a mold release product which would account for the "Hi-Temp" capabilities.
 
S.I seem to remember reading that 1000 was originally developed as a mold release product which would account for the "Hi-Temp" capabilities.

Kind of...according to Ron K. (who sure oughta know), it was originally developed specifically as Floyd`s answer to M16. Yeah, it has been used as a Mold Release Wax, but its origins were along the lines of "the black sheep of the family showing them how it`s done". Which I for one like, so maybe that`s why I lean towards that version of the story :D

M16was another wax with Mold Release in it`s background even though the "crayon smell" makes some folks think "paraffin and low heat-tolerance". Nowadays, Meguiar`s has a dedicated Mold Release Wax that`s apparently awful for use as a LSP, but back 60-some years ago M16 was the [stuff] for all sorts of applications.
 
Put FK1000p on my ppf today. It was really easy fast and fun to apply. Killed only a few brain cells :) Looks nice!

During moderate temps in a garage long do you let sit before buffing off?

Do waxes (non carnauba) help any when applied to ppf? Thxs
 
IXLRS- Heh heh, it does have a bit of a chemically odor, huh? I like it myself :D

Regardless of the temp, I let it set up until it passes the "finger-swipe" test. Wipe/buff it off a small area and see if it comes off "dry"/completely/easily. If it still smears/etc. then let it sit longer. And always expect to do a two-stage wipe anyhow. Noting for the umpteenth time that I apply my LSPs as thinly as possible, I let every LSP I have sit for LONG periods with zero issues (LSPing trim notwithstanding). Eh, I generally don`t try to do a quick LSPing, so I`m not very experienced with beating the clock and probably let my LSPs set up for a lot longer than most people.

I figure that any LSP *that doesn`t somehow mess with the PPF* is good because it`ll provide 1) a sacrificial layer between the environment and the PPF, 2) better dirt/etc. shedding than bare PPF, and 3) a slicker, and usually shinier surface.
 
Just like a new forum to cost me money:) Ordered a tin of this to try. Always on the lookout for something that will last a long time.
 
RandyinTN- I hope (rather confidently ;) ) the FK1000P really is All That for you.

Thin *thin* *THIN* applications ;) And do keep it off your trim.
 
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