FK1000p Beginner questions

Accumulator: No problem. I`m glad, too!

I`m the same way, and would err on the side of caution. Give it a bit more time, and a few washes before I hit with anything. Not like I have time for it right now, anyway.
 
Well, this past weekend I thought it was done raining so I washed my truck and got to try out my first coat of FK on it. I think it looks pretty good! It was overcast so no great sun shots. And then danged if it didn`t rain on my hard work that afternoon!!!

Went on easy, I tried to keep it thin (I`m a wax-waster). It buffed right off I had no issues! I did turn my towel to a clean side after buffing it off and "re-buffed" I don`t know if it did any good or not. I`m also not sure if the Poorboy`s underneath is still there. Oh well, I`m happy with the ease of use and the way it looks so I guess that`s all that matters!

Very happy with the results, glad I broke down and bought a tin. Next up, my wife`s caddy.
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FIDOAG14- Hey, that`s a great color for the FK too! Glad you`re happy with it. Just wait until you see how well it lasts/protects :D
 
Question for the experts. I have just received my tin. Really excited after reading all the reviews.

I am am going to be doing a family members full size truck. I thought th FK would be a great fit for the cost, water spot etching protection, and due to the fact the truck is white. However I really would like to get it all done over the weekend since they need the truck. Is there any advice of how to put 2 coats on in 2 days without any pseudo holograms? I have Duragloss 601 would that help the first coat? Then give it 18-24 hrs and do the second coat?

I am looking for a long lasting finish with great water spot etching resistance because they have really hard water out of a well. And the fact they are going to give my son the truck in a couple years. So I am trying to preserve the trucks finish as much as possible. I was considering doing one layer of Duragloss 105/601. Waiting a couple hours and doing a FK1000p/601 coat. Waiting 24 hrs and doing a second coat of just FK1000p.

Thoughts/ Suggestions?
 
Eh, I turned my back for a few days and missed a scad of PMs and New Posts and and and :o

Ochnob- Your proposed approach oughta work fine. Although I like to spread things out over a few days, I don`t believe that`s absolutely necessary (at least not in most cases).

The DG601, *which I`ve never used*, doesn`t normally require a cure time, does it? I FK1000P right over freshly done KAIO and ZAIO with no problems, so I`d *GUESS* that it`d work OK with the DG also.

I`d keep an eye out for the psuedoholograms, but I would *not* be too worried about that. You could always go overkill at the next wash by giving it another coat then, or just doing whatever areas show the worst wear (always some panels that take a beating worse than others). Don`t worry about doing any big prep for that unless the truck has some awful contamination experience, just wash and rewax.

Sorry it took me so long to respond to this...and Welcome to Autopia!
 
Thanks Accumulator! I for some reason never posted on this site but am on the sister site quite often.

I also read read on another site that some people do 2 layers of FK back to back. Supposedly that is directly from the company. They say the company originally designed it that way for coating molds in production. But I don’t think anyone would care about holograms in a mold for production purposes. Lol.

Has anybody ever had any experience coats back to back? I wonder if ther is a higher pseudo holograms might be present if you do it back to back or waiting 24 hrs.

Im gonna put a layer on my wife’s van this evening just because I’m dying to try it. Putting it over WDGS for the winter. I will post results.
 
Ochnob said:
I also read read on another site that some people do 2 layers of FK back to back. Supposedly that is directly from the company. They say the company originally designed it that way for coating molds in production. But I don’t think anyone would care about holograms in a mold for production purposes. Lol.
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Correct on all counts :D Supposedly you can do a two-stage buff, where the fist pass "opens up the build-film to allow more thorough drying/curing/flash-off due to increased air exposure, and then a second pass to *really* buff it, and then it`s be OK to do the second coat. Not really all that different from how I buff LSPs anyhow.

(BTW, I bet my pal Ron Ketcham developed the "how to use" stuff at FK.)

Works fine...when it does. When it doesn`t you get the pseudo-holograms. Feel lucky? ;)

Has anybody ever had any experience coats back to back? I wonder if ther is a higher pseudo holograms might be present if you do it back to back or waiting 24 hrs.
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Sure :D I did it that way for ages, probably more times than I`ve done it "one at a time". Zero issues except for *two* times when I got the pseudo-holograms, and one of those was when I went nuts with a lot of layers over a few days. Absolute murder to buff `em off...black Yukon XLD with every inch needing done. And FWIW, they showed up a while after I`d applied the last coats. Never again gonna risk that as it was a huge PIA, BUT...that experience might make me overly cautious about something that won`t be an issue for anybody else. Eh, so few things go haywire for me with Detailing that when something does I take it seriously.

I`ve never had a problem doing one coat per day up to maybe four coats total. IME 24 hours between coats gives enough time for the product to truly cure and become impervious to solvent-action. But I do think that it helps to not "apply it aggressively" lest there be a greater likelihood of that solvent-action causing issues, so don`t lean on the polisher if doing it by machine/rub really hard if doing it by hand.

Im gonna put a layer on my wife’s van this evening just because I’m dying to try it. Putting it over WDGS for the winter. I will post results.
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So far I can`t recall FK1000P not playing nice with any underlying product, hope it works OK over the WDGS.
 
Ochnob -

For what it`s worth, I`ve done FK 24 hours apart the last two applications and have not had any issues. I follow Accumulator`s advice: put it on *thin* with *light* pressure. I`ve not had any problems and get great results. I do use a DA not by hand. I will probably have to do that again since we can`t seem to go more than 2 or 3 days without rain here in the last few months...

Gordon

Ochnob said:
Thanks Accumulator! I for some reason never posted on this site but am on the sister site quite often.

I also read read on another site that some people do 2 layers of FK back to back. Supposedly that is directly from the company. They say the company originally designed it that way for coating molds in production. But I don’t think anyone would care about holograms in a mold for production purposes. Lol.

Has anybody ever had any experience coats back to back? I wonder if ther is a higher pseudo holograms might be present if you do it back to back or waiting 24 hrs.

Im gonna put a layer on my wife’s van this evening just because I’m dying to try it. Putting it over WDGS for the winter. I will post results.
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Ok guys. Just did one coat today due to time on the wife’s van. So far I love it! Applied with a DA and a 4in LC Hydro tech crimson pad. Worked really well with the tin. Easy on and off. I have no idea how people say this stuff is tuff to get off. They must be slathering it on.
It does look like putting another layer of clear on the car. Looks great on silver.

I will I’ll put a second coat on in another week or so.

Thanks for all all your input guys! I will try to throw up some pics soon.
 
Ochnob- Glad it went well and that you`re so happy with it! Yes indeed, it`s great on silver.

Are you planning to use a Drying Aid to maintain it?
 
Accumulator said:
Ochnob- Glad it went well and that you`re so happy with it! Yes indeed, it`s great on silver.

Are you planning to use a Drying Aid to maintain it?
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Im in kind of a delema there with drying aids. I have a bunch. Not sure which one would be best. Don’t have any FK spray detailer.

i only have a small bit of Sonax BSD left. I know that works with FK but my wife’s van has a ton of surface area an that would only last one time

I have a bunch of “Blue Juice”. Carpro Ech2o mixed with Reload. Don’t think that pairs well. That’s leftover from my Coatings failed journey. Just was never really satisfied with coatings. I have come full circle back to WDGS, Collinite 845, Sonax PNS (one of my favorites), and Sonax Speed Protect (remarkable scratch resistant finish) and now FK1000p to round out my collection.

I have a gallon of P&S Beadmaker. Love the stuff. I have that on my Volvo DD thats outside 24/7. (I know... the Volvo is outside while the wife’s van and the kids bikes get the garage... welcome to married life.. and it gives me the excuse to constantly wash it....lol). Beadmaker is great stuff but it really is almost a sealant of its own. Right now I don’t want to hide the FK. Maybe in the future I might try it but I want to enjoy the FK on its own for now. Beadmaker is a really slick finish.

I also have a gallon of McKee’s Extender Spray Wax. Nice product. Doesn’t streak even in sunlight on a hot panel. Good for windows too. Leaves a nice slick result without changing the characteristics of the underlying product. Fairly good water beading but not in the BSD category, but not many are. I am leaning towards the McKee’s so I don’t change the FK characteristics and I have to use it. It’s been sitting around since last Xmas...lol.

Thoughts?
 
Ochnob- Sounds like you already have lots of stuff to use up, but FWIW I`m doing great just using Garry Dean`s IUDJ as my Drying Aid on FK1000P. Zero downside, period and quite cheap (I mix 2 oz. IUDJ + 1 gallon distilled water). NEVER woulda thunk it in a million years, but trying it sold me. Doubt I`ll bother buying more FK425/FK146 let alone any other QDs.
 
Mr. Accumulator, I am a NEWB to forums. I just wanted to chime in and thank you for all of the tips on using FK1000p. I am not a professional detailer, but developed and OCD eye as a young adult working in my grandfathers body shop. In the past I have typically used traditional carnauba based waxes from 3M, Megs, and more recently chemical guys. Living in Texas I have always found myself reapplying every 3 months and looking for a product with extended protection. Anyways, I purchased a tin or tub of the FK1000p and completed my journey this past weekend on my daily driving charcoal gray charger and I have to say overall I am really pleased with the results thus far. The car paint feels and looks very wet, not as rich or deep as a carnauba but boy does metallic in the paint pop. Now its time for the durability test.
 
JRuss- Welcome to Autopia! Thanks, nice to hear my endless posting about this stuff is of benefit to somebody :D

Yeah, your take on it`s look is what I`d expect, and that`s not the worst color to use it on (and it`s a good color for a Charger IMO too). With the heat/etc. you`re dealing with, I`ll be interested to hear how the durability works out for you.

How is FK in regards to dust attraction?
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IME it`s better than waxes, not quite as good as some "dry" sealants. But the dust doesn`t adhere the way it does to some LSPs so overall I`d rate it pretty good. But oh man does this sound like one of those unpredictable !YMMV! situations in the making.

The Crown Vic was freshly LSPed with it ages (years) ago, but I stashed it in the back of the shop to drive the `93 Audi more and never got it back out. This year I figured it really needed a little (very little, but it was something) exercise so I took it out without washing it. Covered with "garage dust" and looked hideous. A few hours of spirited use later most of the dust had blown off and it looked almost-OK (but sure not Autopian..). I was simply astounded, never expected that in a million years. No, not saying it`ll work like that for anybody else, but !oh man!...it still looks pretty decent months later too.

I`m tempted (but just tempted) to say "don`t worry about dust attraction/retention with this stuff", but I just know it`d come back to bite me..so if you try it and form an opinion about that, I`d sure appreciate knowing about it.

Heh heh, yeah...I keep hedging my bets with the !YMMV! disclaimers, but you *just don`t know* until you try some things for yourself and I don`t want to give people unrealistic expectations.
 
Mr. Accumulator. Speaking of colors, I had read in this thread that some of the darker colors you didnt prefer the FK on and mentioned that RED was one of those colors you didnt like it on. Have you had a personal experience with this? I ask mainly because I would like to detail my wifes maroon Tahoe. Its a new chevrolet tri-coat maroon ( typically dont like reds but love this color ). I battle love bugs debri, even with a new coat of wax every 2-3 months. Between the routine washing and waxing it has become a love/hate relationship! Do you have any suggestions or should I just test the FK? TIA.
 
JRuss- No, I`ve never tried it on reds (gee, how long has it been since I had/did a red vehicle?!? Decades :o ). When it comes to dark colors, I always 1) thought "this will look awful, way too sealanty.." but after I got used to the look I liked it just fine (e.g. the dark blue pearl-type metallic on my oldest Audi), 2) oughta point out that *nothing* I`ve ever used on any vehicle has elicited so many compliments from complete strangers like FK1000P on those exact same dark colors. Nobody ever did that over the Collinite, let alone Souveran, that I thought looked better, but with the FK it happens so often it`s kinda weird...if only because those are my beaters!

I`ll go out on a limb and say that yeah...you oughta just try it. And don`t go too far with your first impressions, live with it for a while if it`s not to your taste. You can always top it with something if you just can`t stand it and at least it oughta be better protected than it is now. Not that I know from Love Bugs...

Heh heh, if you reapplied the FK1000P every few months like your current wax (and wash right) you might go as long between decontaminating/claying and polishing/paint cleaning as I do!

Ya know..the more I think about it, I bet I`d like how it`ll look on that paint. See what you think and if you get a chance post back, I`d love to hear your take on it.
 
Mr. Accumulator, Thank you. I was really leaning toward trying it anyway. Love bugs is what we have always called them, the enzymes will quickly etch modern clear coat cars. I typically have to wash both of my vehicles weekly just to be safe and depending on the time of year I might spray the front end off two times in between.

Just curious, do you typically polish before you apply and if so what polish has given you "best" look?
 
JRuss said:
Just curious, do you typically polish before you apply and if so what polish has given you "best" look?
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No, I don`t polish before I apply it unless there`s marring to correct, and that doesn`t happen often. I haven`t done a full-vehicle polishing for years (and I don`t mean just three or four).

But FWIW, I do my serious correction with M101, less-serious with HD Cut (I might switch to Griot`s stuff if I ever use those up), and I almost always Finish Polish with HD Polish (haven`t tried the new "Polish+" version as it takes me forever to use it up). I *UTTERLY DESPISE* M205 and I won`t use Menzerna either. And there`s my Abrasive Products answer in a nutshell :D

The closest I come to using an abrasive regularly is my now-and-then use of some old 1Z products (Pro-Line Metallic Polish and WaxPolishSoft) that are *almost* nonabrasive on my paints (they are functionally nonabrasive in the sense that they won`t take out even the lightest marring), and ZAIO which is also too mild to do any cutting. Maybe some KAIO which is always functionally nonabrasive for me, on everything.

So far I`ve never had any problems with FK1000P going over products like the 1Z/AIOs that leave stuff behind.

I hardly ever even clay/etc. before redoing the FK1000P (though I spot-clay as needed at every wash). I get a vehicle as good as I can get it once, and then I just try to keep it that way. Yeah, kinda challenging, but it works for me.


Heh heh, you`re washing as often as I once did :D Now I don`t wash for incredibly long stretches at a time, well...except for my wife`s car, which gets used a lot, and even that doesn`t get done weekly.

It sounds like your Love Bugs will be a real Acid Test for the Fk1000P. Sure hope it works OK for you, looking forward to hearing about it.
 
Thank you for the reply. No real marring or defect to contend with at all on her Tahoe so no real reason to add the additional step. Oh yeah the love bugs will be a true test. It is common to see the etching take place if left on over 24hrs or so. I have taken on a couple of projects for friends who didnt pay attention and let them bake on for a couple of weeks and large sections of the clear coat looked milky when cleaned!
 
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