Finishing with a Rotary

Interesting that the 1Z HG performs more aggressively for others than it does for me :think: Maybe it's because I've only used it on hard clear, or maybe I'm not being more aggressive with my technique.



ScottWax- Thanks for elaborating, about the Cyclo. Glad I don't have to deal with the stupid-soft paints you pros have to tackle! The only time I had one of those was the weird-while-curing repaint on the Volvo, and yeah, *that* would mar with almost everything via PC/Cyclo...finally got it OK with Griot's Machine Polish #3 of all things.



Wonder how the Cyclo would work (on stupid-soft clear) with blue pads and something like 1Z MPwW...My Sonus blue pads seem a bit more gentle than the Cyclo white ones.
 
I'll take care of your Cyclo question now. I tried using white, blue and green pads with FPII, 85RD, 106ff, #80 and a couple other polishes that I can't remember on Stupid Soft (TM) paint and it didn't work. I cleaned a LOT of pads that day.
 
Scottwax said:
Since I *have* to tape off the car when using a rotary, it absolutely takes me longer. Not to mention two polishing steps vs one. Even though the rotary corrects faster, twice around the car is going to take longer.



When doing 1 polishing step with the PC, I do make the customer aware that the deeper defects will remain that a two step process with the rotary will probably remove. Kind of hard to convince a soccer mom whose kids are going to trash out the Suburban within a few weeks to really care all that much beyond just having shiny paint.
Click to expand...



What are you typically using for the one step, so far as product and pads? Do you find there to be certain makes or colors that this is not good for? I'd rather take my time and do it right, but for the people who want it cheaper, I would like to hear your process so that I can offer something similar. Thank you sir!:tribe:
 
SpoiledMan said:
I'll take care of your Cyclo question now....on Stupid Soft (TM) paint and it didn't work..
Click to expand...



OK, thanks for the definitive response.



Hats off to you pros, being able to handle this is the sort of thing is, IMO, what separates the highly skilled amateurs from the true professionals.
 
After reading this entire thread, the pearl I'm going to try out in my own garage was from post # 10 by Toto......



Here's a method I'm using for cars with very soft clear coats: Because most of the compounds in the shop are too abrasive (3M Extra Cut, M105, etc) for soft clear, I've found that using 3M SRC and wool will correct surface defects without adding additional swirls.



Now, what I do after that is: using a polish pad like the Meg's 8006 in the picture or a finish pad, I spritz it with Detail Spray and work the area I've just finished. It clears out any residue and allows me to see my work.



....I like that tip.....:up



I think it will save a lot of time wiping down every small window with a MF and starting all over again.....



Thanks Toto.......:D
 
What about the dynabrade attachment for the rotary? Would it work using #105 or another heavy compound switching over to the orbital motion for the last couple of passes to eliminate the rotary swirls? Wouldn't that make finishing out with a product like Ultrafina more effective?
 
Scottwax said:
What about the dynabrade attachment for the rotary? Would it work using #105 or another heavy compound switching over to the orbital motion for the last couple of passes to eliminate the rotary swirls? Wouldn't that make finishing out with a product like Ultrafina more effective?
Click to expand...



Good idea...that's why I plan to use the FLEX for final light polishing after the Makita.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top