AWWWWW MAAAN!!! This sucks......

C

coupe

New member
Well i polished my car finally and now i have a bit of a problem. I used megs #83 and then followed it up with #80. I still have hazeing :( To make matters worse i already waxed with #26 :(

I spent 18 hours over the course of 3 days fully detailing my car top to bottom. My car is in the garage 95% of the time, i hardly ever drive it. I Ussually follow up with #82 after #83 and #80. This is the first time EVER polishing my car with a PC BTW. Ive done MANY cars this summer and have never had hazing after #80.

So after i get done with #80 i went ahead and waxed with megs #26.

2 days later im out in my garage smokin and i see some haze, so i take a much closer look and i can see a very fine haze all over my car. I cant believe i missed this haze before i waxed. Of course after 18 hours and 3 days and in the back of my mind knowing ive done it before with no ill affects and went straight to LSP.



My questions at this point is:

Will number #82 clean up this light hazing?

How can i remove the wax without rewashing the car?

Will #82 remove the wax?

Im trying to correct this problem without spending another 8 hours on it.

What are my options? The only light polish i have in my arsenol is #82 and the only glaze i have is #7.



Im so switching to optimum and hi-temp.
 
What type of car? What type of pads?



I have seen 80 leave light hazing on VERY soft paints, but most of the time this is not a problem. If the 80 is leaving the hazing, then 82 or 9 with either a 9006 or a 8006 pad should remove it. If not, then you might want to try something like 66 that will fill in some of the hazing and finishes soft.



You stated that this is your first time with a PC, and I'm going to jump out on a limb and say that the problem is user error. Cover the basics for the 80 seriers....



Slow arm speed (one to two inches a second, tops)



Overlapping passes that change directions (vertical, horizontal, diagonal)



Spread on spead 3 and switch to speed 5 to work.



Make sure your working the product long enough (this might be the problem). Using slow arm speed and working the over lapping sections in the three directions I mentioned, you should be able to work 83 for atleast 2 minutes, and 80 for about 2 1/2 minutes for a 18" by 18" section. Your likely going WAY to fast and not working long enough.



Use the right pads



Properly load the product onto the pad. I recommend a single bead from 1 end to the other end, pretty thin.
 
TH0001 said:
What type of car? What type of pads?



I have seen 80 leave light hazing on VERY soft paints, but most of the time this is not a problem. If the 80 is leaving the hazing, then 82 or 9 with either a 9006 or a 8006 pad should remove it. If not, then you might want to try something like 66 that will fill in some of the hazing and finishes soft.
Click to expand...



I have the DAS pads, i use #83 with the orange cutting pad, number #80 with the green and i ussually use the #82 with the green also, sometimes the blue finishing pad.



TH0001 said:
You stated that this is your first time with a PC, and I'm going to jump out on a limb and say that the problem is user error. Cover the basics for the 80 seriers.....
Click to expand...



Nope not my first time with the PC and the 80 series. I have done 9 cars with it IIRC and 2 snowmobiles. Ive never had this problem. I always could go from #80 to LSP with no problems. This is the first time useing it on my personal garage queen.



TH0001 said:
Slow arm speed (one to two inches a second, tops)



Overlapping passes that change directions (vertical, horizontal, diagonal)



Spread on spead 3 and switch to speed 5 to work.
Click to expand...



I did that on all acounts.



TH0001 said:
Make sure your working the product long enough (this might be the problem). Using slow arm speed and working the over lapping sections in the three directions I mentioned, you should be able to work 83 for atleast 2 minutes, and 80 for about 2 1/2 minutes for a 18" by 18" section. Your likely going WAY to fast and not working long enough.
Click to expand...



That could be, i did rush a bit on my car, at least i have the feeling i did. I learned my lesson, now i need to fix my mistake without going through it all over again.





TH0001 said:
Properly load the product onto the pad. I recommend a single bead from 1 end to the other end, pretty thin.
Click to expand...



Thats one thing im having trouble with. Some say after the pad is *primed* just use a small dot of polish. Well even if the pad is primed and you use a small dot of polish you cant work it in becuase by the time you get it spread out on speed 3 its already gone just about clear, there isnt anything really left to work in.







At this point what can i do?

I have #82, #7 and DC1.

I still have #83 and #80 but wanna refrain from useing them, i may not have enough to redo the whole car.
 
Are you sure it is hazing from the polishing steps? The reason I ask is sometimes I have had a sort of film or "hazing" left behind from #26 after #80, especially if there is a lot of humidity.
 
Well the haze is very lite. No one that is not an autopian would probably not even notice it. But i notice it, its ruining my optically clear, wet and glossy finish and its killing the depth.

After i got done with polishing it started raining right away so i was unable to move it into the sun so i can really inspect it. I did a quick once over and didnt notice anything like hazing. Then again i was tired which was making me rush and and in turn making me mis a something like this.



Im very suprised #26 would leave a haze after #80, that dosent make sense at all.
 
Just to be clearer .... I don't mean a haze like some tiny abrasions or marring. It's more like the oils in #80 and #26 interact somehow with the humidity to form some kind of film or smearing almost.



I'm not saying that's what you have ... just something to consider as a possibility. Only trying to help.
 
Hmmm i dunno, it could be considered a film i guess. It just looks *hazy* under my garage lights, its very lite though. There isnt any smearing though, thats for sure. The film idea makes sense becuase its so lite. At a quick glance you wouldnt notice it but when you look at the reflection of the lights you can see the haze around the reflection of the lights.



Its now day 4 after my detailing and its been raining all 4 days so i have not had a chance to get it into the sun for a good inspection. I might be able to get a pic of it, that wont be easy though. Im getting very frusterated that i cant even inspect it under the sun.



Maybe its hazing, maybe its some kind of film, maybe the garage lites are playin tricks on me, i wont know till i can get it in the sun. Even then i wont know. My instincts and experiance are telling me its actual hazing.



Im starting to think i didnt remove all the haze from #83 with #80. I find that hard to believe though.
 
My poor car lol

front-2.jpg




426149_126_full.jpg
 
You MUST use #82 for your polishing step BEFORE applying #80. 82 properly applied will give you the gloss and depth without hazing. just remember to keep buffing while it's still wet. Remember to totally allow the polish to break down. Going over each section twice with number 82 is you best bet at getting a clear finish. Your hazing was cause by 83. It can be corrected.



Remember 82 should always be your final polish before using 80 or a wax.



Derrick
 
Derrick said:
You MUST use #82 for your polishing step BEFORE applying #80. 82 properly applied will give you the gloss and depth without hazing. just remember to keep buffing while it's still wet. Remember to totally allow the polish to break down. Going over each section twice with number 82 is you best bet at getting a clear finish. Your hazing was cause by 83. It can be corrected.



Remember 82 should always be your final polish before using 80 or a wax.



Derrick
Click to expand...



You mean that #82 needs to be used AFTER #80 not BEFORE.

It also does not ALWAYS have to be used AFTER #80. Like i have said before and many others will agree #80 ussually always finishes down to a LSP ready finish. This time it just did not work out that way......figures that it was my car that it didnt work the way it ussually does.



My consern at this point is my layer of wax that is already on it. Will #82 remove the wax AND correct my haze? Or do i need to find a way to strip the wax off before using #82?
 
Coupe said:
You mean that #82 needs to be used AFTER #80 not BEFORE...
Click to expand...



Yeah, #80 has more cut than #82.



Coupe- I can't really help with this one as I'm no fan of the Meg's (abrasive) polishes, though I use #80 from time to time and never got that hazing :nixweiss But a few general thoughts come to mind:



I'd try the #82 on a small area where you can see what it does. It oughta cut through the #26 and the oils from the #80, though you might have to do a few passes and it might gum up your pad a bit. You could do an IPA-wipe first to compromise the wax too, easier than washing.



I dunno if I'd be in a hurry to try #7...it might add to the hazing issue if it's oil/humidity/etc.-related and it might hide any abrasion/marring-related hazing, giving you the false impression that you solved the problem better than you think you did.



Assuming the hazing was always there and you just didn't spot it (as opposed to it being a blooming-type of haze that occurred later), I'd give some thought to getting some better lighting that'll show off this sort of thing.
 
Always use 82 before 80. 82 is a little more abrasive than 80, and 82 can get your car's finish ready for the LSP.



Personally I would:

1 wash car

2 clay car again to remove any dirt that might be embedded in the paint.(I am super cautious).

3 polish a section with 82 until the haze is gone and the polish totally breaks down and is still wet

4 reapply # 82 polish to the same section and polish again with a less pressure to get the gloss and depth

5 do the complete car

6 check work then apply #80

7 apply wax



That's my routine.



#80 cannot remove the marring left behind by # 83. #83 abrasives are a little too strong
 
Derrick said:
Always use 82 before 80. 82 is a little more abrasive than 80, and 82 can get your car's finish ready for the LSP.



Personally I would:

1 wash car

2 clay car again to remove any dirt that might be embedded in the paint.(I am super cautious).

3 polish a section with 82 until the haze is gone and the polish totally breaks down and is still wet

4 reapply # 82 polish to the same section and polish again with a less pressure to get the gloss and depth

5 do the complete car

6 check work then apply #80

7 apply wax



That's my routine.



#80 cannot remove the marring left behind by # 83. #83 abrasives are a little too strong
Click to expand...





Your not really making much sense. #80 is much more abbrasive than #82. This is the order of abbrasiveness #83-#80-#82, and should be used in that order. You have it totaly backwards.

Then you say #82 gets your finish LSP ready.



Im trying to avoid putting another 18 hours into this, there has got to be a faster way for me to correct this.



So what is IPA and where do i get it?

the decoder dosent have IPA listed.
 
IPA wipe down is:



Water & Alcohol (isoproply alcohol) mixed 50/50. Should soften the wax and add in removal. I used Distilled Water.
 
sorry You are correct. I don't use 80 by machine.

step six should have been



6 check work then apply #80 by hand OR

7 apply wax



I believe the polishes you used caused the marring.



You need to use #82 with a finishing pad to get rid of the marring. Use the steps above and see the difference. #82 sholud always be your last polish BEFORE using some type of protection.



I only use #80 by hand instead of wax on repainted cars because the paint hasn't cured yet. It's good PROTECTION until the paint cures. Other than that I have no reason to use #80.



Derrick
 
i'm still learnign here. but from what i've researched. teh order is as follows: 83 , 82, 80. 81 is a hand polish adn thats hwy it's not used.



Meguiar's #80 MSG Speed Glaze

Meguiar's #81 HP Body Shop Professional Hand Polish

Meguiar's #82 SFP Body Shop Professional Swirl Free Polish

Meguiar's #83 DACP Dual Action Cleaner/Polish





the decoder says so also. 80 is ur final step and 82 should NOT be followed after 80.



correct me if i'm wrong. but this sounds like 82 is more abrasive than 80
 
gopedhead,

80 is more abrasive if use by machine, but it is also excellent protection for uncured paint. It doesn't finish LSP ready. That's why he got the marring. He needs 82 THEN wax OR 80 by hand with a foam applicator pad.



Derrick
 
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