AWWWWW MAAAN!!! This sucks......
- Thread starter coupe
- Start date
Accumulator
Well-known member
gopedhead said:
IMO the protection from #80 is pretty minimal, I'd absolutely apply and LSP (as long as you're not talking about uncured repaints).
My bottle says it's OK for use by hand and I've done it that way countless times.
David I am not try to promote anything. Just putting the link so the viewers can see what I am talking about.
#80 is more agressive than #82 when used by machine.
Wax should be applied after #82.
Here is the link. Look at the agressive arrows on the bottles of #80 and #82 and tell me if I am mistaken. I could be but I don't think so.
http://www.meguiars.com/estore/prod...Car Polishes>Cleaner/Polishes§ionID=31402
Derrick
#80 is more agressive than #82 when used by machine.
Wax should be applied after #82.
Here is the link. Look at the agressive arrows on the bottles of #80 and #82 and tell me if I am mistaken. I could be but I don't think so.
http://www.meguiars.com/estore/prod...Car Polishes>Cleaner/Polishes§ionID=31402
Derrick
Derrick and gopedhead, you both have alot to learn and what you both are sayin is totaly backwards and completely incorrect on so many levels its not even funny. Neither one of you should be replying in my thread given your obvious non-existent experiance, understanding of polishing and understanding of these polishes. I dont wanna be a jerk but you guys are killing my thread and i dont have time to get you up to speed. Please use the search feature and learn.
Ok so my best bet is an IPA wipe down to help dissapate the #26 and the #82 should remove what is left of #26 along with fixing my haze problem. Do i have this correct?
Ok so my best bet is an IPA wipe down to help dissapate the #26 and the #82 should remove what is left of #26 along with fixing my haze problem. Do i have this correct?
80 should finish down LSP ready...what it doesn't take out it should fill.
I'd wipe down a spot with the IPA and see if the hazing is just a film or is indeed micromarring.
on a side note..whenever I hear IPA wipedown..I think an IPA (India Pale Ale) should be required for the detailer!
I'd wipe down a spot with the IPA and see if the hazing is just a film or is indeed micromarring.
on a side note..whenever I hear IPA wipedown..I think an IPA (India Pale Ale) should be required for the detailer!
Todd@RUPES
Just a regular guy
Okay let me step back in here and try to fix a few things if I can....
First we must source the reason you are getting marring....
A) On some soft paints, #80 will leave hazing via PC. You would notice this before applying the
wax/sealent... You can fix this several ways
1) Rebuffing a section using Meguiars #82 and a light cut pad. #82 is LESS abrasive then #80
a) If hazing is still there but minimized, then try #82 and a finishing pad
1) if hazing still exists, you a heavy filler product such as #7 (you can use #80 by hand at
this point, since it does have similar filling ablities, but #7 would be a much better
product since we don't want to reintroduce abbrasives on to the paint) or #66
2) Going to a glaze like #5/#7/#81 right away to see if this fills in the marring
B) The marring my have instilled when using the rougher cut of Meguiars #83. This may not have
been visible right away because #83 is an oil based product and may have covered its own
marring.
1) Repolish the said area with #83, making sure to fully break the abbrasives down, then
clean the repolished area with IPA, and inspect. If this appears to be the same as before or
better, then repolish with #80 and inspect. If the marring is gone, your good. This is the worst
case senirio as you will have re polish the entire car.
C) The LSP (#26) was the problem. If you look at the hazing and notice it looks more like streaking
and like rays you seen on dirty glasses, then this is likely the problem. You can wipe the area
with a damp cloth and see if the streaking changes directions with the path of your wipe or
disappers. If it disappears, your good, if not there are couple things you can do.
1) Wipe the area with a damp towel then apply #26 to a test area. Don't let it set up, just wait a
minute and wipe off. This should remove most of the streaking. If not...
2) Wipe the entire car with IPA, removing most of the LSP. Then, making sure the product is well
mixed, apply to the entire car using a whisper light coat. Let set up and remove.
As stated in this thread, #80 can be applied by hand over #82, as a glaze. However, there are better products that are non abrasive in nature such as #3/#5/#7/#81 and DC2. I would stick to these instead of using an abbrasive product. I hope I helped.
First we must source the reason you are getting marring....
A) On some soft paints, #80 will leave hazing via PC. You would notice this before applying the
wax/sealent... You can fix this several ways
1) Rebuffing a section using Meguiars #82 and a light cut pad. #82 is LESS abrasive then #80
a) If hazing is still there but minimized, then try #82 and a finishing pad
1) if hazing still exists, you a heavy filler product such as #7 (you can use #80 by hand at
this point, since it does have similar filling ablities, but #7 would be a much better
product since we don't want to reintroduce abbrasives on to the paint) or #66
2) Going to a glaze like #5/#7/#81 right away to see if this fills in the marring
B) The marring my have instilled when using the rougher cut of Meguiars #83. This may not have
been visible right away because #83 is an oil based product and may have covered its own
marring.
1) Repolish the said area with #83, making sure to fully break the abbrasives down, then
clean the repolished area with IPA, and inspect. If this appears to be the same as before or
better, then repolish with #80 and inspect. If the marring is gone, your good. This is the worst
case senirio as you will have re polish the entire car.
C) The LSP (#26) was the problem. If you look at the hazing and notice it looks more like streaking
and like rays you seen on dirty glasses, then this is likely the problem. You can wipe the area
with a damp cloth and see if the streaking changes directions with the path of your wipe or
disappers. If it disappears, your good, if not there are couple things you can do.
1) Wipe the area with a damp towel then apply #26 to a test area. Don't let it set up, just wait a
minute and wipe off. This should remove most of the streaking. If not...
2) Wipe the entire car with IPA, removing most of the LSP. Then, making sure the product is well
mixed, apply to the entire car using a whisper light coat. Let set up and remove.
As stated in this thread, #80 can be applied by hand over #82, as a glaze. However, there are better products that are non abrasive in nature such as #3/#5/#7/#81 and DC2. I would stick to these instead of using an abbrasive product. I hope I helped.
OK i wiped it down with IPA. Holy crap IPA removes wax like there is no tomorrow!!!! I have no idea why anyone would even wanna use Dawn, Dawn has nothin on IPA!!!!
After the wipe down the hazing seems to be even worse =(
How can it be worse now?
Im kinda gettin worried i might not be able to fixe this =(
Someone tell me i can fix this
After the wipe down the hazing seems to be even worse =(
How can it be worse now?
Im kinda gettin worried i might not be able to fixe this =(
Someone tell me i can fix this
Eliot Ness
Active member
It looks worse because the #26 and #80 were filling in (masking) some of the haze. Doing the IPA wipe you took all of that off.Coupe said:
The good news is You CAN fix it! :2thumbs:
The bad news is you're going to have to redo the whole car to get it corrected.
Concentrate on doing just one small panel or section until you find what works, and then you can correct the whole car.
I would start out with #80, take your time and see if that removes the haze (do an IPA wipe) for the small section you decide to work on..... and make sure you work #80 until it is fully broken down...... it will turn clear (or sometimes pink).
If that doesn't clear it up after a couple of applications then I would go back to #83 and work it until it is fully broken down, and then follow up with #80 again. I guess you could try #82, but I've never had to use it after #80. In fact, there have been several times when I used #83 on a polish pad that it has left the paint LSP ready.
If you don't want to use 80 & 83 again you can try some OC and/or OP in different combinations until you find what works.
The key to this is to take your time and find out what corrects the haze on just a small section before you try to do the whole car again.
Something as simple as a bright flashlight in a garage will show up defects pretty darn well if you shine it at the correct angle on your paint.
Eliot Ness
Active member
That should be plenty to work on just a small section.Coupe said:
It's a bummer that you have to repolish, but once you figure out the process/product to remove the haze you can take your time doing the rest of the car. Just chaulk it all up as a learning experience......
Todd@RUPES
Just a regular guy
FWIW, half a bottle would last me a LOT of cars with a rotary. For PC application, you should be able to strech it for atleast 15 cars, MIN.
Your saying that the areas you did with 83 look good, but the areas you finished down with 80 had hazing? I'm not really sure how that would work out (unless the pad was dirty or the paint had dirty on it), but if the 83 looked good, why not just finish down with 83? If the 83 looked good, but the 80 was hazy, you could try going from 83 to 82 and see if that helps. I have ALWAY had 80 clean up 83. On soft paint, it is lightly hazed AFTER 80, but it still clearer then AFTER 83. The problem is either the application or something is really wrong with your 80.
MOL should be back online soon, and I suggest we move this thread over there.
Your saying that the areas you did with 83 look good, but the areas you finished down with 80 had hazing? I'm not really sure how that would work out (unless the pad was dirty or the paint had dirty on it), but if the 83 looked good, why not just finish down with 83? If the 83 looked good, but the 80 was hazy, you could try going from 83 to 82 and see if that helps. I have ALWAY had 80 clean up 83. On soft paint, it is lightly hazed AFTER 80, but it still clearer then AFTER 83. The problem is either the application or something is really wrong with your 80.
MOL should be back online soon, and I suggest we move this thread over there.