5 Coating Adhesion Test to CarPro Essence Review!

Vega@Autopia said:
Just curious but what did you observe exactly that let you know those two products did not work well together? The more details the better please (application process, weather, etc) :) I know everyone else on here would soak up your data too.
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It was extremely hard to spread. Residue was extremely difficult to remove. I waited 24 hours after applying Essence which may have played a part. I'm going to try different time intervals.
 
I only have experience with Gloss Coat, so I'll say that it will not last much.

Jesse@Autopia said:
Yes the far right section is Essence all by itself with nothing on it.



I should be able to monitor the car over several months, since a worker here just got the car and is not planning on selling it anytime soon.
Also I did not do an IPA wipe down, I just applied essence, buffed it with a microfiber towel, and then applied the coating over top of it.
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Does anyone think the feel of the paint after essence is really queeky clean? It smells kinda like the old KAIO, feels squeaky clean like ZPC.

If it behaves like either one of those anything will stick to it , imo.
 
JBM said:
Does anyone think the feel of the paint after essence is really queeky clean? It smells kinda like the old KAIO, feels squeaky clean like ZPC.

If it behaves like either one of those anything will stick to it , imo.
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JBM - When applying OCP or GC, both product require a wipe down of some sort even when Hyper Polish/Prep Polish is used. So I'd say your opinion is wrong with GC.
 
Thomas Dekany said:
JBM - When applying OCP or GC, both product require a wipe down of some sort even when Hyper Polish/Prep Polish is used. So I'd say your opinion is wrong with GC.
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What about JBM's question was "wrong"?

I did not see any mention of Gloss Coat?

Based on your statement; it Is too bad that Essence is not compatible with Optimum Coatings
 
Thomas,
Your very correct in your statement.
I also share CarPro required a product to wipe down before coating too.
Maybe technology is changing for CarPro?
Just and idea for thinking, how are they doing this?
 
Trying to follow what point some of you are trying to make and I can't. A wipe down with a paint prep product between Essence and your coating is a good idea and should be done. How does that make Essence not a good choice for polishing prior to a coating? Am I missing something?

I'm experimenting with it myself on my truck. I would like to use it as my polish before Optimum's coatings but I won't use it on a coating job until I know whether it hinders OCP's ability to fuse with the paint. I say fuse because I'm told OCP bonds differently with the paint than other coatings. Yvan from Optimum gave this explanation as to the difference between Opti-Coat Pro and all other coatings --

"True coatings are characterized by their silicon content (not silicone), and 2 principal variations of silicon are used. The most common is Silicon Dioxide, sometimes marketed as glass, quartz or ceramic, and in all cases that’s true. SiO2 is suspended in a resin in the form of nano particles of Silicon Dioxide, and the resins suspend this in a film over the paint. SiO2 has a melting point of 1,600 °C (2,910 °F; 1,870 K) and on the Mohs scale of hardness is a 7.

The other coating system is Silicon Carbide or SiC. Opti-Coat Pro is the only coating available that harnesses the strengths of Silicon Carbide sometimes referred to as ceramic, industrial diamonds and carborundum. Unlike SiO2 based coatings, the SiC based coating actually bonds to the paint and the SiC is formed as a chemical reaction in that process, not by having Nano particles of the ceramic floating in a resin. SiC is superior to SiO2 coatings chemically and has a melting point of 2,730 °C (4,950 °F; 3,000 K) and is a 9 on the Mohs scale of hardness.

Opti-Coat Pro is unique in many ways because of this fundamental difference in chemistry. Opti-Coat–Pro becomes one with the paint instead of suspending nano particles of a harder substance in a resin. This gives Opti-Coat Pro far superior chemical resistance, as the chemical must break down the SiC, and not break down a resin holding SiO2 nano particles.

Opti-Coat Pro is harder then other coatings, but no coating is scratch proof. To obtain maximum strength other coatings require heat curing, with OCP that’s not required. SiO2 coatings obtain their maximum gloss immediately , and that gloss drops off over time, Opti-Coat Pro obtains it’s maximum gloss once the polymerization process is completed (roughly 7 days). Opti-Coat Pro will maintain its gloss over time, SiO2 coatings start losing their gloss through oxidation and it continues to drop, requiring the need to add periodically some form of resin to maintain or restore the gloss and protection."
 
Troy@Protekt said:
Trying to follow what point some of you are trying to make and I can't. A wipe down with a paint prep product between Essence and your coating is a good idea and should be done. How does that make Essence not a good choice for polishing prior to a coating? Am I missing something?

I'm experimenting with it myself on my truck. I would like to use it as my polish before Optimum's coatings but I won't use it on a coating job until I know whether it hinders OCP's ability to fuse with the paint. I say fuse because I'm told OCP bonds differently with the paint than other coatings. Yvan from Optimum gave this explanation as to the difference between Opti-Coat Pro and all other coatings --

"True coatings are characterized by their silicon content (not silicone), and 2 principal variations of silicon are used. The most common is Silicon Dioxide, sometimes marketed as glass, quartz or ceramic, and in all cases that’s true. SiO2 is suspended in a resin in the form of nano particles of Silicon Dioxide, and the resins suspend this in a film over the paint. SiO2 has a melting point of 1,600 °C (2,910 °F; 1,870 K) and on the Mohs scale of hardness is a 7.

The other coating system is Silicon Carbide or SiC. Opti-Coat Pro is the only coating available that harnesses the strengths of Silicon Carbide sometimes referred to as ceramic, industrial diamonds and carborundum. Unlike SiO2 based coatings, the SiC based coating actually bonds to the paint and the SiC is formed as a chemical reaction in that process, not by having Nano particles of the ceramic floating in a resin. SiC is superior to SiO2 coatings chemically and has a melting point of 2,730 °C (4,950 °F; 3,000 K) and is a 9 on the Mohs scale of hardness.

Opti-Coat Pro is unique in many ways because of this fundamental difference in chemistry. Opti-Coat–Pro becomes one with the paint instead of suspending nano particles of a harder substance in a resin. This gives Opti-Coat Pro far superior chemical resistance, as the chemical must break down the SiC, and not break down a resin holding SiO2 nano particles.

Opti-Coat Pro is harder then other coatings, but no coating is scratch proof. To obtain maximum strength other coatings require heat curing, with OCP that’s not required. SiO2 coatings obtain their maximum gloss immediately , and that gloss drops off over time, Opti-Coat Pro obtains it’s maximum gloss once the polymerization process is completed (roughly 7 days). Opti-Coat Pro will maintain its gloss over time, SiO2 coatings start losing their gloss through oxidation and it continues to drop, requiring the need to add periodically some form of resin to maintain or restore the gloss and protection."
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Thanks for sharing!
 
wish I could find more articles with coating comparisons. i like reading what's in the products and differrences


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"I'm experimenting with it myself on my truck. I would like to use it as my polish before Optimum's coatings but I won't use it on a coating job until I know whether it hinders OCP's ability to fuse with the paint. I say fuse because I'm told OCP bonds differently with the paint than other coatings. Yvan from Optimum gave this explanation as to the difference between Opti-Coat Pro and all other coatings --"

"To fused with the paint"
Does that make one remove the clear coat from the surface to recoat a panel?

Your telling no other coating bonds to the paint surface, correct?
 
exactly what I was looking for! i love reading up on these type of things


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Detail Impressions said:
Does that make one remove the clear coat from the surface to recoat a panel?

Your telling no other coating bonds to the paint surface, correct?
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Opti-Coat Pro is unique in many ways because of this fundamental difference in chemistry. Opti-Coat–Pro becomes one with the paint instead of suspending nano particles of a harder substance in a resin. This gives Opti-Coat Pro far superior chemical resistance, as the chemical must break down the SiC, and not break down a resin holding SiO2 nano particles.
Click to expand...

Based on what Yvan says here, they all "bond" with the paint but Opti-Coat bonds directly instead of using a resin as a medium. Let me be clear. I am not claiming to be an expert on the chemistry of coatings. I'm simply relaying info that was given to me to explain what makes OCP unique. Based on this information, I'm guessing the use of Essence would hinder the Opti-coat's ability to bond directly to the paint.

As far as removing to re-coat a panel. Any good coating is going to require a compound or sanding to remove. In order to insure that the coating is removed, you would be cutting into the very top layer of the clear coat.
 
allenk4 said:
Steel melts at 1370 F, the car will melt before either OCP or a "less durable" SiO2 coating like CQuartz
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Common sense will take you the answer to this.
I can take a polish/Compound and compound any of the coatings off. Bet I do not need 1370F to remove the coating :)
I will take it a step deeper bet I can take factory clear coat off and yes not need 1370 f to remove the clear coat.

Guys think before you drink the coating manufacture's kool aid :)
 
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