WW/RW Showdown - N-914 vs Feynlab Pure Rinseless

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This is last night rained on for about 5 hours. Beading and self cleaning ( what do you refer to beads rolling off as?) looks to be the same. Didn’t get a chance to Reset but if something was on their rain rinsed away as all looks back to normal.

Try to get some daytime shots if we get some rain.


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I feel as though something was left behind (film?) but rain washed away. I did put in 16oz spray bottle and had to “eye” 1/16th oz. may have been to much. Not sure if even that was right dilution but i feel its back to normal.


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Coatings=crack said:
I feel as though something was left behind (film?) but rain washed away. I did put in 16oz spray bottle and had to “eye” 1/16th oz. may have been to much. Not sure if even that was right dilution but i feel its back to normal.
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Thanks. Let us know if anything changes in the near future, i.e. it does show signs of noticeable, additional degradation since the PR. I don’t have energy to retest this stuff at this time.
 
Just used the Feynlab Pure Rinseless today... It is a good thing that I had it as I had forgotten to put the correct density insert back into my IK9. The cleaning ability is quite impressive. It also worked really well as a wheel cleaner.
 
Yeah it cleans well and i feel its gelish like consistency helps to encapsulate dirt better. No science behind it but feels substantial.


On a coated car I’m liking better than 914.... that’s saying alot. Frothe still my go to waterless/rinseless product though



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I’m still not convinced film is what’s causing the poor beading afterwards. Why would it work totally fine for true coatings right after use, not impacting beading at all? Film should impact anything. It also doesn’t make sense that it can make a rated-6-month-longevity ceramic wax sheet 50% worse after one use, even after trying to remove film with N-914 and paint prep, twice thoroughly.

NOTE: My thought above is in no part saying anyone is wrong. I don`t know the answers and am speechless about PR (except when I want to complain about it).

...thats why I don’t use PR anymore except for on bare surface (but not as a paint prep because of film potential), because it just doesn’t make sense to me.
 
I can agree it’s weird. My application could be problem as when i used on coating i mixed up a gallon which was easy to dilute.

I may have used to much as a waterless trying to usexin a 16oz bottle. I’m gonna try again as rinseless this week and will use in bare trunk and hood with Cosmic (trunk) and SNS/GC3-1 (hood)


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acuRAS82 said:
I’m still not convinced film is what’s causing the poor beading afterwards. Why would it work totally fine for true coatings right after use, not impacting beading at all? Film should impact anything. It also doesn’t make sense that it can make a rated-6-month-longevity ceramic wax sheet 50% worse after one use, even after trying to remove film with N-914 and paint prep, twice thoroughly.

NOTE: My thought above is in no part saying anyone is wrong. I don`t know the answers and am speechless about PR (except when I want to complain about it).

...thats why I don’t use PR anymore except for on bare surface (but not as a paint prep because of film potential), because it just doesn’t make sense to me.
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Are you sure your double application of a paint prep didn`t take a bite out of your sealant?
 
TheMeanGreen said:
Are you sure your double application of a paint prep didn`t take a bite out of your sealant?
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I’m not sure of anything anymore, but I can say that the half of the hood where the PR was used and then the double application of paint prep was done sheeted identical-to-the-eye after the PR and after the paint prep. Could it have been due to film and then coincidentally to the degradation from paint prep afterwards? Could be. I would test more if I had any desire to invest more time in this product. But I don’t.
 
acuRAS82 said:
I’m not sure of anything anymore, but I can say that the half of the hood where the PR was used and then the double application of paint prep was done sheeted identical-to-the-eye after the PR and after the paint prep. Could it have been due to film and then coincidentally to the degradation from paint prep afterwards? Could be. I would test more if I had any desire to invest more time in this product. But I don’t.
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If you don’t like it and wanna try some Shine supply clutch? TrAde ya.


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Update:

Just did some experimenting on my roommates filthy vehicles, and the lower rocker panels of mine.

Roommates vehicles:
Condition- only washed when rained on.
Paint Color: White, applied PR using the Ammo Aerator at ~1mL product to 500mL water. Given the dwell time, PR cut through the grime like butter, I could have sprayed the dirt off with a spray bottle on stream setting. Keep in mind this dilution ratio. Typical waterless washes can only clean so much at their dilutions.

My Vehicle:
Condition- pretty dang good for a 175K mile daily driver
Paint Color: Basically DRK GRN. Applied to lowest rocker panels of the vehicle via Ammo Aerator, I just keep these areas looking nice with D156 as they take a lot of abuse. PR at 1mL to 250mL stripped the two day layer of D156 clean off the surface. Did apply PR to one specific spot on my car that has DPC Armor, first application of PR cleaned the area really well, final buff retained Armor`s slickness. Second application of PR degraded Armor`s slickness enough to make me apply a fresh layer.

Between the two dilutions listed being applied via a pump foamer, PR really didn`t feel less slick under the towel between the two dilutions. On my protected paint (Armor area), I didn`t visually or kinesthetically notice much of a film. I do need to preface that I was doing areas of these cars that do see the most dirt and I was using a Kirkland MF. At this time I do not know what results will be yielded with pretreating a panel with PR @ 1mL to 500mL. Not sure how much LSP degradation will occur or if it will leave towel marks with nicer towels. PR seems to be a new frontier for those of use that want to prep a car for LSP and can only go hoseless, or wash a car that has a typical wax/sealant. At recommended dilution I can completely see why it cleans coatings so well. For those of us that have waxes/sealants, start playing around with greater dilution ratios to see what gets the vehicle "clean enough". In my world, 1mL to 500mL which rounds to 1oz to 512oz, meets my needs for cleaning ability. Remember, extended dilutions are at your own risk as you do increase the probability to inducing love marks because of said extended dilution.
 
Coatings=crack said:
Yeah it cleans well and i feel its gelish like consistency helps to encapsulate dirt better. No science behind it but feels substantial.


On a coated car I’m liking better than 914.... that’s saying alot. Frothe still my go to waterless/rinseless product though



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Over on the DPC FB Page, I proposed the idea to Scott/Summeet to come up with a foaming rinseless/waterless wash and the peanut gallery didn`t take it kindly. I really think that FROTHe fills a gap in the rinseless/waterless market that traditional rinseless/waterless washes aren`t capable of filling, at least for me. FROTHe meets my requirements and I would love to pick up Garry Dean`s OFF ROAD Foaming Rinseless to see how they compare to FROTHe, as well as pick up a Marolex Axel to see how much further I can extended FROTHe. Why does it have to be so expensive? It`s such a great product though. I hope the big names in the detailing product industry catch on because rinseless/waterless is the future which is now. I am switching over to almost completely rinseless/waterless products, I am in the market for more variety of foaming rinseless/waterless wash without it costing $35/16oz; GD OFF ROAD is more reasonable at $19.99/16oz, would really like to see $28 to $32 for 32oz concentrate.
 
TheMeanGreen said:
Over on the DPC FB Page, I proposed the idea to Scott/Summeet to come up with a foaming rinseless/waterless wash and the peanut gallery didn`t take it kindly.
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Lol! How dare you suggest such a thing to a group of sophisticated FB detailers. You didn’t know that each of them knows more than you?

Anyways, I agree it would be great to have more options like Frothe. I have not yet tried it simply due to the abundance of RW/WW on my shelf, but it’s only a matter of time... problem is that I’m afraid I will live it and leave 5 gallons of RW/WW concentrate to rot.
 
acuRAS82 said:
Anyways, I agree it would be great to have more options like Frothe. I have not yet tried it simply due to the abundance of RW/WW on my shelf, but it’s only a matter of time... problem is that I’m afraid I will live it and leave 5 gallons of RW/WW concentrate to rot.
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I still find uses for all my Rinseless. Use PR once a month to get road film off of paint. I use 914 as rinseless still and to pretreat panels before frothe.

I use my ech20 for Merlins mixes which i use as a QD. Use my Griots brilliant shine for same purpose as 914.

I just alternate between all.


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acuRAS82 said:
Lol! How dare you suggest such a thing to a group of sophisticated FB detailers. You didn’t know that each of them knows more than you?

Anyways, I agree it would be great to have more options like Frothe. I have not yet tried it simply due to the abundance of RW/WW on my shelf, but it’s only a matter of time... problem is that I’m afraid I will live it and leave 5 gallons of RW/WW concentrate to rot.
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The price of FROTHe will make you restrict it to special occasions, for example when the car is slightly past the Rinseless/waterless wash window but you don’t want to pull out a bucket or hose. I reserve FROTHe for these moments as West Texas is full of dust and there’s the occasional rain that comes out of nowhere when it’s 33°F.
 
I feel it is expensive but when broken down it’s $1.50 to $2.00 a wash. I know it can be done for a lot less from other rinseless but that price is bot inhibitive for a truly better product.

I order 1bottle of Frothe and 2 Hydrate. I order during black friday for free shipping.

Doing the math for 1bottle and shipping ($45) dollars and assuming 25 washes (website says 25-30) it breaks down to a $1.80.

I get more washes than most being a convertible. Roughly 2.5 washes per oz,


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Coatings=crack said:
I feel it is expensive but when broken down it’s $1.50 to $2.00 a wash. I know it can be done for a lot less from other rinseless but that price is bot inhibitive for a truly better product.

I order 1bottle of Frothe and 2 Hydrate. I order during black friday for free shipping.

Doing the math for 1bottle and shipping ($45) dollars and assuming 25 washes (website says 25-30) it breaks down to a $1.80.

I get more washes than most being a convertible. Roughly 2.5 washes per oz,


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And doesn`t Larry give you free shipping if you spend $150? In order to save $10 I`ll gladly spend $150! - that`s my detailer logic at work. And probably why I`m usually broke broke lol.
 
quebert said:
And doesn`t Larry give you free shipping if you spend $150? In order to save $10 I`ll gladly spend $150! - that`s my detailer logic at work. And probably why I`m usually broke broke lol.
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I have the same logic; I really wanted to add another Marolex Industry Ergo to my original order of the Axel 2000, simply because I will save money in shipping in the future, because I really would like to add another Industry Ergo. But I had to tell myself no as the total was more than I was comfortable spending, so I just got the Axel 2000. :P


@Coatings=crack, I recently ran some numbers and by switching completely over to Rinseless/Waterless with FROTHe by cutting out the coin-op for three out of four washes, I could save about $3/wash. Over the course of a year that is at least $108 in savings. I did just order a Marolex Axel 2000, intuition tells me that I will be able to get more mileage out of FROTHe. Going from dilution of 1:20 in the Aerator to maybe 1:38 to 1:50 in the Marolex. I will report back with the findings.
 
TheMeanGreen said:
I have the same logic; I really wanted to add another Marolex Industry Ergo to my original order of the Axel 2000, simply because I will save money in shipping in the future, because I really would like to add another Industry Ergo. But I had to tell myself no as the total was more than I was comfortable spending, so I just got the Axel 2000. :P


@Coatings=crack, I recently ran some numbers and by switching completely over to Rinseless/Waterless with FROTHe by cutting out the coin-op for three out of four washes, I could save about $3/wash. Over the course of a year that is at least $108 in savings. I did just order a Marolex Axel 2000, intuition tells me that I will be able to get more mileage out of FROTHe. Going from dilution of 1:20 in the Aerator to maybe 1:38 to 1:50 in the Marolex. I will report back with the findings.
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What makes you think you can use a 2x dilution ratio with a Marolex? I have one, and it works basically the same as my IK & Kwazar. Seems to be that would be really really stretching it too far.
 
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