WW/RW Showdown - N-914 vs Feynlab Pure Rinseless

DetailZeus said:
That’s what I’m saying. If this stuff is stripping FK, then it has to be destroying your hands. Are there warning labels on the bottle like you’d get with Klean-Strip? If it leaves a film on oily sealants maybe an ipa wipe will bring them back. Curious.
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It doesn’t burn hands or have warnings. One of my initial posts (#15) on this thread I followed up the Feynlab used on the drivers side hood of my Acura (with brand new M21 LSP) with using N-914, then two Wolfgang Prep Spray wipes. The beading remained exactly the same.

also I used Feynlab on my Q5 and the LSP (numerous coats of Wolfgang Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant has been just about dead ever since. This was over a week ago with a couple heavy rains and the beading hasn’t gotten better.

While I can’t rule out that Feynlab leaves hydrophilic stuff behind, it takes a lot to remove it or it’s deteriorating LSPs.
 
I will have to check the bottle again for warnings. But my initial opinion is that it doesn’t leave a film. There is a chemical reaction when you put it on. Whether that is acidic or not I’m not sure. The first time I noticed something happening is when I was doing a section of the hood and several water trails dropped to a dry section of the hood. I thought the water trails looked odd so I wiped them off with a clean towel. Those water trails seemed to change the Sonax PNS. There were little lines left. I went on to clean the whole car. Probably should have stopped. Lol.

I will be redoing my Sonax PNS this weekend. I will be using this to wash it again prior to doing another coat.

But IMO it is not leaving anything behind. It is changing the sealant.


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Ochnob said:
Agreed. I never in a million years considered a rinseless changing a LSP before I tried this Pure R.

I think there are either terrible marketing departments or there are things lost in translations between languages many times in this detail world.

I love Sonax products but find their marketing descriptions funny sometimes. Take Duragloss for instance. Their poor marketing department is still stuck in the 70’s. I love their products. I can’t figure out what their descriptions mean and I’m close enough that I have stopped by their HQ sometimes. I have gone full circle from coatings back to DG and FK1000P with some Sonax sprinkled in. But I’m sure the translation of Duragloss descriptions into other languages has to be amusing.

To prove that point here is the Duragloss HQ store set up. They are truly old school. It’s just a display case in the lobby.

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That`s a cool and in a refreshing way that they have sticked to their products. Any knowledge if they have changed the formulas during the years?
Have you or anyone else tried the Duragloss Enviroshield Ceramic Coating System?

Awesome that you can use it for other uses the Feynlab Pure Rinseless as a prep wash. Would be very interesting to hear if a reset wash would be doing anything on revive it if it`s maybe have leaved chemical residue behind. Don`t seems that way on acuRAS82 experience though. And if a coating has problems with being clogged up or saturated with toppers and what the Pure Rinseless could be doing at that. It`s claimed to be a maintance product on coatings. Here is the caution copied from their Swedish distributor site on the Pure Rinseless.

Cautions:
Always wear respirator & gloves during application. Ensure application area is free of loose contamination.

A waterless or rinseless wash which rinses completely clean, revealing true surface condition. This is another claim that makes it strange under the product benefits description.
 
That caution`s weird to me, on the US site it says Pure`s eco-friendly. Maybe it`s just my thinking`s incorrect here. But my brain = "eco friendly" and "wear a respirator and gloves during application" don`t go together. If they`re saying I shouldn`t breathe or touch it, how can it be safe for the environment? Someone should post a comment on an Apex Detailing video on Youtube explaining this and ask Brian to do his testing on it. For something as simple as a rinseless wash, this is one of the most perplexing products I`ve come across.
 
quebert said:
That caution`s weird to me, on the US site it says Pure`s eco-friendly. Maybe it`s just my thinking`s incorrect here. But my brain = "eco friendly" and "wear a respirator and gloves during application" don`t go together. If they`re saying I shouldn`t breathe or touch it, how can it be safe for the environment? Someone should post a comment on an Apex Detailing video on Youtube explaining this and ask Brian to do his testing on it. For something as simple as a rinseless wash, this is one of the most perplexing products I`ve come across.
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The eco-friendly thing is a kind of complete in another direction when you talk about the personal safety and the safety for the environment. It has much with how fast it breaks down and desolves in the nature as in the water and the soil. Also how it effects the water organisms and animals. And then it`s gets very diluted in these environments vs when you use them on a surface to clean with.

It`s not unusual that WW or RW has solvents in them or emulssions of them. And since it`s mentioned as being used as a panel prep product. I would think that the solution is volatile as in it`s evaporate fast maybe is a better explanation. But it must contain something that is very effective to desolve oils and carbon and the bond that the protection has on vehicals. The thing in paint thinners is usually very effective to do this on ceramic coatings. It can be a kind of emulssion as in water soluble solvent/petroleum based that is very close to the chemical in paint thinners. And if it creates fumes when it chemically reacts with the oil based dirts and the kind of polymers that`s in the protection. These fumes can be very bad to inhale. This is only my thoughts on it though. I would think about the ventilation around where I use the Feynlab Pure Rinseless for sure. Maybe not a problem for a personal use but definitely if used regualary as a proffessional detailer. Then these kind of safety can be claimed a little over the top but you don`t want to ignore it fully. I see so many youtubers that don`t even use nitrile gloves with products that`s very strong. The problem with most products used as cleaners or carriers in products is very good at desolving oils and fats. Which your skin has as a natuaral protection. And useing this regualary you reduce this protection and it takes time for your body to build it up again. Then it`s so easy to use them and are a cheap insurance to not getting any problems with your skin in the future. Also you have a lot of chemicals that gets inside of your body by the skin. The same is with safety goggles as the eyes own protection is desolved by many products that is used with detailing vehicals. Rant over LOL.

Would be very interesting to see someone doing some testing with this product. And if you are a business owner and ordering it through that. They must give you the SDS from the product. Cause with caution claims there is chemicals that must be put in the SDS. And it would be very interesting to hear what it`s based on. Then all chemicals is not in the SDS but the dangerous ones are. And that it`s another thing that many companies think that they will get away with claiming it`s a secret. This is not so actually and the SDS has a lot more power in getting the user the knowledge about how to manage the safety with the product. Then that the ones that is going to be controlling products is very poor is another scary thing. As it`s up to the companies to put in the chemicals they uses that needs to be in the SDS on their own. Think not only in the detailing products this is something that many companies think that they can skip doing. Would be very interesting to see someone that`s able to be takeing a few different products. And to get them tested in what`s really is being used in them and if all that`s needed to be in the SDS is so. Personally I think that this could be a huge problem with the SDS is not right.

Feynlab Pure Wash is the car soap version of the Pure Rinseless. But they have another one called just Feynlab Wash which seems to be an interesting product. It`s leaves a ceramic protection behind and is recommended to be used at every 4th wash.
 
Well me being dumb just ordered a bottle to try on a coated car. Acura and other guy who has it (sorry didn’t look up your name) did you use in rinseless or waterless?


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Coatings=crack said:
Well me being a dumb a$$ just ordered a bottle to try on a coated car. Acura and other guy who has it (sorry didn’t look up your name) did you use in rinseless or waterless?
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I used it as WW normal dilution, WW 2X dilution and RW.

If this stuff works as a WW/RW, a true coating is going to be the only thing it can’t harm, so best of luck! It did harm my Enigma ceramic wax but who knows with a true coating. Maybe do an inconspicuous lower panel first and check performance afterwards.

The other main user in this thread is Ochnob.
 
acuRAS82 said:
I used it as WW normal dilution, WW 2X dilution and RW.

If this stuff works as a WW/RW, a true coating is going to be the only thing it can’t harm, so best of luck! It did harm my Enigma ceramic wax but who knows with a true coating. Maybe do an inconspicuous lower panel first and check performance afterwards.

The other main user in this thread is Ochnob.
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I used as both. And because it is the same dilution for both methods it seems to have the same effect either way. Maybe a coating can hold up. But the toughest sealant I know was no match.

No harm with name. I don’t post much here. I mostly post on sister site.


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Coatings=crack said:
Also it says to rinse your vehicles before your rinseless and waterless wash

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That’s funny. If you are gonna rinse your car off why in the hell would you then do a rinseless wash. LMAO.


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Tried it tonite for 1st time. I pre treated it with n-914 I have I. My IK pro 2. Used the pure rinseless as a rinseless 1 oz to 2 gallons of water.

This stuff is thick and does cling well. Cleaned whole car with 914 pre treat and Fenylab wipe down. I sprayed sides with water and CQUK3 performed like normal. Water literally usain bolts right off the car.

I didn’t test trunk lid where it’s only coated with Cosmic and no coating and can’t really verify if it hurt cosmic on coated parts. We’re suppose to get rain tomorrow so I’ll try and look and maybe get some pics.

Hood has no coating and McKee’s coating prep wash seem to degrade the Toppers on their. This seem to not hurt them much more. Maybe beads are flatter and definitely not rolling off.

Did in evening so not a good look. Report back tomorrow if possible



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I think this stuff is maybe made for coated cars. Worked well on the Cquartz covered sides with no negative effects. Water behavior has been great since I cleaned with the McKee’s coating prep. No difference with water behavior after the Forever Rinseless wash.

It also seem to not affect the Cosmic only trunk. The hood had a few sio2 sealants but look to be degraded (not removed) from the McKee’s CPW. The FPR seem to affect water behavior but still beading although flat and irregular shaped beads.

I’m going to remove everything from hood and do a side by side. Was gonna be Cancoat vs Moonlight but might make a sio2 sealant comparison again to wash with the FPR to see if it will affect it. Has anyone else tried on a coated car? Thoughts?


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Coatings=crack said:
I think this stuff is maybe made for coated cars. Worked well on the Cquartz covered sides with no negative effects. Water behavior has been great since I cleaned with the McKee’s coating prep. No difference with water behavior after the Forever Rinseless wash.

It also seem to not affect the Cosmic only trunk. The hood had a few sio2 sealants but look to be degraded (not removed) from the McKee’s CPW. The FPR seem to affect water behavior but still beading although flat and irregular shaped beads.

I’m going to remove everything from hood and do a side by side. Was gonna be Cancoat vs Moonlight but might make a sio2 sealant comparison again to wash with the FPR to see if it will affect it. Has anyone else tried on a coated car? Thoughts?
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Thanks for reporting back. I’ve not tried it on coated paint. I did use it on newly PBL glass coated windows but then I got pissed about FPR in general and decided to redo the window coating without being able to tell if it was impacted. More of a “peace of mind” action.

I’m glad to hear that your coating is doing fine, as this makes at least one of the claims for the product to make sense and be true.
 
acuRAS82 said:
Thanks for reporting back. I’ve not tried it on coated paint. I did use it on newly PBL glass coated windows but then I got pissed about FPR in general and decided to redo the window coating without being able to tell if it was impacted. More of a “peace of mind” action.

I’m glad to hear that your coating is doing fine, as this makes at least one of the claims for the product to make sense and be true.
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The stuff is thick and I feel maybe it left something behind. I know you 914’d afterwards but maybe it didn’t remove everything. Did you or ochob (sorry if incorrect) try a reset wash?


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So Pure on hood that is 50/50 TWSNS and Griots Ceramic3-1

Whole hood:
1d96308caba6d2af7abf02a2dcb56ebb.jpg


TWSNS

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GC3-1

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Looks like griots is holding better but both were degraded

Hood rained on week ago.

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Sorry forgot before pics but product applied 1/7. Hood has been it several times since with Bilt hamber Autofoam. Stuff is Alkaline which i believe also Pure is.

Gonna reset wash it tomorrow.

Absolutely does nothing to coated parts of vehichle.

Solution was 1/16th once to 16oz bottle.


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Coatings=crack said:
The stuff is thick and I feel maybe it left something behind. I know you 914’d afterwards but maybe it didn’t remove everything. Did you or ochob (sorry if incorrect) try a reset wash?
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Based on your last post (directly above), do you think your toppers were degraded, or masked by PR left behind? Maybe that thought should be pending Reset wash.

I N-914’d followed by 2 rounds of WG paint prep. I would like to think that is enough to get cleaner residue off, but not 100% way knowing. However, for one of the cases I had tried PR on, the hood still had the same beading reduction after 2 weeks of sitting outside, including numerous rains.
 
acuRAS82 said:
Based on your last post (directly above), do you think your toppers were degraded, or masked by PR left behind? Maybe that thought should be pending Reset wash.

I N-914’d followed by 2 rounds of WG paint prep. I would like to think that is enough to get cleaner residue off, but not 100% way knowing. However, for one of the cases I had tried PR on, the hood still had the same beading reduction after 2 weeks of sitting outside, including numerous rains.
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I felt that the products were degrading to begin with (had prewash a couple of times with BH autofoam which i believe is alkaline). I do feel the beads in pic look worse but comparing rain beads to pump sprayer.

Gonna rain in couple days and will be fairer comparison. Will bead wirh pump sprayer after wash.


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TheMeanGreen said:
Just ordered some to see how it will work on non coated wheels. If it works well, then we have quite an economic wheel cleaner.
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I don’t have wheels coated but do have either PA supersport or mckees hydro blue sio2. It cleaned the wheels good. I protected after use so don’t know if protection was degraded. That seems to be inderlying issue.


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Should be a great wheel cleaner for regular use, assuming degraded protection isn’t an issue. There’s no doubt it’s a solid cleaner.
 
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