Wool Pads.

C

ConglomrationAL

New member
Does anyone here used a wool pad when polishing out swirls? If so how do you like it and how does it compare to, say, an orange LC pad? I'm just trying to see what the market has to offer and how they all colmpare.

thanks.

~Albert
 
ConglomrationAL said:
Does anyone here used a wool pad when polishing out swirls? If so how do you like it and how does it compare to, say, an orange LC pad? I'm just trying to see what the market has to offer and how they all colmpare.

thanks.

~Albert
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Due to the cutting nature of a wool pad, it isn't an effective tool for removing swirls (other than ones induced my compounding). Even the polishing (non-cutting) wool pads are aggressive. Use a foam pad to polish out swirls. Much better, faster and easier.
 
hmm. OK, I agree with what you guys are saying, but i've heard from many detailers that say only a wool pad can get rid of the really bad swirls. Is that not true? are they wrong?
 
BigJimZ28 said:
a wool pad will add more swirls then it will remove
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Not true. If you have compounding induced swirls, a wool pad will knock down the heavier swirls and leave much smaller ones behind. It wouldn't make it worse. Most of the time when you're trying to remove heavy swirls caused from improper rotary techniques/finishing, a wool pad is a requirement to level marks down. It won't totally remove them, but it will help facilitate the final finishing work that will be done with a foam pad.
 
David Fermani said:
Not true. If you have compounding induced swirls, a wool pad will knock down the heavier swirls and leave much smaller ones behind. It wouldn't make it worse. Most of the time when you're trying to remove heavy swirls caused from improper rotary techniques/finishing, a wool pad is a requirement to level marks down. It won't totally remove them, but it will help facilitate the final finishing work that will be done with a foam pad.
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ok but where do the "compounding induced swirls" come from?
 
BigJimZ28 said:
ok but where do the "compounding induced swirls" come from?
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I agree. Compounding is more than likely going to marr the finish(foam or wool). When you're heavy buffing a vehicle, you start strong and work your way down. It's unavoidable. During the compounding process, you start at the top and go down. Each step minimizes swirling as you go down the abrasive meter. If you skip steps in between, you won't remove the initial compounding swirls. I can never go from compounding(wool) to polishing with a foam pad. There's too much of a gap in between those steps to achieve the proper long term outcome. It requires an additional breakdown with a wool pad. Then foam, foam, LSP.
 
David Fermani said:
I agree. Compounding is more than likely going to marr the finish(foam or wool). When you're heavy buffing a vehicle, you start strong and work your way down. It's unavoidable. During the compounding process, you start at the top and go down. Each step minimizes swirling as you go down the abrasive meter. If you skip steps in between, you won't remove the initial compounding swirls. I can never go from compounding(wool) to polishing with a foam pad. There's too much of a gap in between those steps to achieve the proper long term outcome. It requires an additional breakdown with a wool pad. Then foam, foam, LSP.
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ok,thanks for the info
 
ConglomrationAL said:
Anyone else besides these two have anything to offer?
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I have a question....



If sanding is necessary, is wool the next step down or can colored pads and polishes finish off a light sanding job......?
 
When lacquer was king wool pads were the thing to use. A fine lambs wool pad has natural oils in the hide and was used to glaze out swirls on these softer paints. With the introduction of clear coat water basepaint systems wool pads no matter how fine and clean leave swirl marks that will eventually show up after several car washes. The manufactors have turned to foam technology to elimate this problem for correctio on assembly line paint correction and bodyshop paint finishing. There are different grades of foam for cutting and finishing just like wool pads read up and ask question to your supplier for you application needs.

I have lots of wool pads left but would not suggest using them on the new paint systems.

Bob Geco

Bob Geco's Auto Appearance Care

Los Angeles, California
 
Well close to 20 years exp. with wool pads and foam pads and teaching people how to use rotorys I have seen people come close to doing more damage faster with foam pads than wool pads.



On medium to severe scratches, swirls, and blemishes, a foam pad just won't cut it. A wool pad just cuts and turns the paint into a smooth sheet of glass. It also depends on which polish/compound you use also. I have used a lot of compounds and the only one that I like is "Presta ultra cutting creme light". It works extremely well on defects and polishes out to an extreme glossy defect free surface. However, you will need to go over it again with a pc and a lc white pad with a finish polish. Well worth it! Sometime foam will just not cut it on some paints. I have had some finishes that had marks in the paint and not even a yellow lc foam would do anything, even 1 hour per fender. Rotory with wool-60 seconds per panel, then 3 minutes with a pc and a white lc pad and a finish polish (menzerna 106ff, zpc, or whatever you choose). Under 5 minutes per panel for a show car finish!

People are scared to use wool. It's not the wool that is scary, it is the compound or polish that some use. 3m and megs is meant for pro's and does not break down fast enough for a beginner and then woops a burn through. Presta makes a great polish for wool/foam that breaks down fast and turns to gloss fast. Menzerna is an awesome polish for foam pads, but does not like wool pads as it clumps and jumps around. Op and OC just marr the surface bad with wool pads and leaves a nasty haze, but on foam they finish good. Like I said, you need the right product with wool. Take it from my experience and trying hundreds of products. I just needed to clear this up for everyone!



A wool is meant to cut and a foam is meant to polish and finesse!

Any questions anyone just ask.



Thanks

Ryan
 
RAG- You got my attention! As I just posted on another "wool pad" thread, I'm spending *hours* with the rotary on the M3, trying to do correction with orange and yellow foam pads and H-T EC. Some jobs on b/c paint apparently *do* call for wool pads, I'm just not used to doing cars in this condition (or at least not used to trying to get them really nice).



Dave1- I've removed 2500-3000 sanding scratches from hard clears with just the PC and foam pads. Done 2000 ones a few times too. Just takes time. Goes faster with the rotary, but you don't have to get all *that* aggressive if you're only comfortable with the PC and I've never found foam pads to be too mild (not like with the above-mentioned M3).
 
Great write up Ryan. I remember the days fondly :wall when you had a choice between wool and wool.. a nice bolt through the center to hold the pad and speed was regulated on your all metal polisher by your trigger finger.
 
wannafbody said:
wool and HTEC-would that combo smooth out deep etching?
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I never liked taking out etching with a wool pad - I guess it would, but it's all too easy to knock down an edge to primer with a wool pad. Personally I'd try to sand it with 2500 or 3000, by hand on the edges and R/O air sander on the open areas.
 
3Dog said:
Great write up Ryan. I remember the days fondly :wall when you had a choice between wool and wool.. a nice bolt through the center to hold the pad and speed was regulated on your all metal polisher by your trigger finger.
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:LOLOL I remember the bolt. I think all the buffers are still like that. You just have to buy the hook and loop plate. I guess we never think of that. It's amazing how times have changed and thank god for the pc. Finish work is now fun and not just hard work anymore. I still have the old school black and decker rotory with no speed control, just 3000 rpm and I never had a problem. My other buffer I had that broke had an adjustment felt slow at 1200rpm. I am just use to higher rpm, cause that's what I learned 20 years ago. I guess I am good like that, especially after doing thousands of cars. I still love the pc cause it is a fun machine.
 
rydawg,



Would you recommend a Wool pad for heavy oxidation? What other products besides Presta would be effective with wool?
 
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