WHOH Look at this pic

I run 90 percent of my photo's thru Paint Shop Pro, but I don't hide this fact. As stated, it is NO different than a dark room. Infact, I often find this part enjoyable, trying to make the photo's look as nice as the cars do in person.



I agree with the overexposure on a lot of photo's in this forum. Often you cannot see the sky, the buildings are all washed out, and pavement always looks white. I try not to take any photo's like this because as we all know, its B.S. Of course the car looks good when everything else is washed out. However, sometimes when it is bright outside and overcast, it is almost impossible to avoid overexposure. We don't have the benefits of selecting our light like a professional photographer does.
 
VaSuperShine said:
i personally have never even visited photoshop.com or used the tool itself (however it is used) and therefore cannot tell if a pic has been doctored or not. as far as polarizing cameras are concerned i don't know what that means either. i know how to set my timer on my camera and turn the flash off thats about it. i would like to know what setting would be the best to use to capture as real to life images with my digital camera.
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Ditto dude, i dont know how to use any editing software and the only thing i know how to do on my camera is turn the flash on or off. So whatever the camera pics up is what it pics up, out of my control.



However i still love seeing peoples pics of their work, especially before and after pics. Sure the surface may look perfect but i know it isnt and most others do also, its still fun to look though.
 
SpoiledMan said:
Many times the light meter is thrown off on the camera with black to bright transitions. How do you edit/fix that in PS?
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Yes, it is a common and genuine problem with all metered cameras; albeit the more expensive ones are pretty smart themselves to avoid it.



For those cameras that aren't too advanced, there are many tools available in PS to fix the resulting photo. One can use layers to separate the object from the background and work on each individually to correct the light balance, return warmth to the colors to bring them closest to their real-life levels, and then merge the layers back together to create a good image. Or one can go low-tech and just fix the light and colors of the entire picture simultaneously, but the results won't be as good as when layers are used.
 
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no photoshop just a regular sony 4.1 mp camera:woot:
 
Just do it right in the camera the first time, you donut need PS or other image editor.. for black and/or darker cars, point it at an area with little reflection, set your EV from -1/3 to -2 (test which ones), then lock exposure and recompose and shoot. That should eliminate any overexposed issues. Nearly all digicams have basic ability to lock exposure or dial in exposure compensation :) If not, well.. :p
 
TH0001 said:
However, sometimes when it is bright outside and overcast, it is almost impossible to avoid overexposure. We don't have the benefits of selecting our light like a professional photographer does.
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:werd: Try as I might, I still have problems when shooting dark cars on concrete (which 95% of the parking lots in Dallas are made of) in full sun, overexposing the background (although using slower speed film and slightly underexposing the vehicle helps) or white cars in the full sun which wash out all the gloss, shine and wetness of the actual vehicle.



I just don't have much latitude in where I move other people's vehicles and I can't control what the vehicle is parked on or how bright the background is. I think the vast majority of us want our pictures to be an honest representation of our work but given the wide variety of picture taking scenarios we face, it is hard to meet that goal 100% of the time.
 
jedovaty said:
Just do it right in the camera the first time, you donut need PS or other image editor.. for black and/or darker cars, point it at an area with little reflection, set your EV from -1/3 to -2 (test which ones), then lock exposure and recompose and shoot. That should eliminate any overexposed issues. Nearly all digicams have basic ability to lock exposure or dial in exposure compensation :) If not, well.. :p
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I have a Nikon N60 35mm camera and haven't figured out how to lock in the background exposure. I just underexpose the whole shot 1-2 stops. I didn't have this problem with my old Minolta that was fully manual, I could just split the exposure difference with that camera. Plus at the time, I had access to the school's photolab so I could fix exposure problems in the darkroom.
 
That is the only wax I am interested in anyhow...:) daveKg wrote an interesting comparision to a higher end named wax.
 
ThEGuN said:
That is the only wax I am interested in anyhow...:) daveKg wrote an interesting comparision to a higher end named wax.
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Me and most of the poeple here will tell you the same thing, LSP means nothing in the end.
 
I don't know if it means nothing, but the amount of time folks spend arguing about it seems silly considering they should be arguing about the proper preparation to get LSP ready paint.



In any event, pictures like that are a dime a dozen.
 
Picus said:
I don't know if it means nothing, but the amount of time folks spend arguing about it seems silly considering they should be arguing about the proper preparation to get LSP ready paint.



In any event, pictures like that are a dime a dozen.
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Agreed. I don't even comment on click and brags that are just a bunch of reflection photos from 2 feet against the car.
 
Bigpoppa3346 said:
Agreed. I don't even comment on click and brags that are just a bunch of reflection photos from 2 feet against the car.
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Are they really? I know that I get sun shots whenever I can as I know that reflection shots are nothing more than eye candy. Is this just another worthless 2 ft reflection?? You can even see the imperfections in it and it was posted right along in the thread with the others.



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Well if the camera is 2ft away from the surface to show imperfections, than there is nothing wrong with that. I'd say half of 01bluecls' pictures are just a few feet away from the car, but it shows the level of correction attained, which of course is what all of us want to see. And he does some of the best work on this site.



But when the car is taken outside, with a bunch of extreme angles, then those pictures mean nothing to me.



I just like to see "the big picture", like how you would see the car as you approached it in say, a parking lot.
 
SpoiledMan said:
Are they really? I know that I get sun shots whenever I can as I know that reflection shots are nothing more than eye candy. Is this just another worthless 2 ft reflection?? You can even see the imperfections in it and it was posted right along in the thread with the others.



IMG_3396.jpg
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That's a full sun shot as far as I can tell, just happens to have a reflection in it. I actually take some crap from customers for not taking more "reflection" shots, but I just find them totally worthless when it comes to evaluating the actual job.
 
Picus said:
I actually take some crap from customers for not taking more "reflection" shots, but I just find them totally worthless when it comes to evaluating the actual job.
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This is because you are a professional detailer and enthusiast who evaluates past the "shiny" part. Most people that don't know any better (more than likely the ones that give you crap) only say WOW it's so shiny :lol Make sense?



As far as reflection shots go though, I like them. Especially when you can see some distance or when some thought is used in planning a shot.

:bigups
 
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