Which DA? Flex 3401 or Megs G110V2

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NemesisM5

New member
Hi everyone,



Want to get a DA polisher, but the more I read, the more I am lost. I am a complete novice, never have I used a mechanical polisher. Ever.



Here in Europe, the price difference between a Flex3401 and a Megs G110V2 is ALOT smaller than in the US (here the Flex3401 costs only 30% more than the Megs). A PorterCable is out of the question since I cannot purchase one in Europe at all...



I have heard that in terms of newb safety, the G110V2 wins, as the Flex is direct drive and doesnt "shut down" under too much pressure.



I intend to buy a machine for myself, and to work on friends/family cars. A project I want to do is a entire BMW 7series black metallic with mega swirls and water etching...
 
For me - there is no competition between the two. The flex is a much more powerful polisher. Easy choice. Either way, both DAs are going to make a huge difference.
 
Thanks for the reply tdekany :)



Problem with choice is that I heard from one or two people, that because of the lack of clutch on the Flex, its easier for a newb to apply too much pressure and damage the paint? Since I know nothing about DA polishers, I could not comment on that...
 
You can not damage the paint by "applying" pressure - I mean would you put your whole weight on it? Using common sense, you will quicly learn ho to polish.
 
the way i see it, for the average man, 15lbs is even pushing it for most cars--especially as you get halfway through the car...the purpose of the dual action is that it significantly reduces the chances of you burning paint...My vote is for the flex and the griots for tight spots.



love my flex
 
Wow, Flex it is then :)



Can I use Megs Soft Buff 2.0 pads with the Flex? Will the Megs Professional DA Backing Plate (W68DA) fit on the Flex?
 
NemesisM5 said:
Can I use Megs Soft Buff 2.0 pads with the Flex?
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Yes, you can use any pads of 6" or larger (though most would say that 6.5" is the practical minimum size).
Will the Megs Professional DA Backing Plate (W68DA) fit on the Flex?
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No, the Flex takes a special backing plate (and you oughta have a spare as they do sometimes fail).



Oh..almost forgot, I think somebody sells a whittled-down Flex backing plate for use with ~5" pads. I thought about doing that for 4" ones but decided it'd compromise the stuctural integrity of the plate too much.
 
Thank you Accumulator for the reply :)



Danilo said:
With the internet at your finger tips you can't get a portercable in europe? I bet you could...
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I could, but:

-shipping costs (about $60)

-customs fee (22% VAT and 6% import tax)

-no warranty

-the PC runs on 110V which means I would need to run it through a converter to 220V



Same thing goes for the Griot's Garage DA
 
How about getting your hands on the Festool Rotex RO150 FEQ?



You can run it as a random orbital or as a forced rotation orbital. Perhaps the pricing is similar? It's a lot more $$$ here. Between the Flex and the Festool... I much prefer the feel of the Festool.
 
BigAl3 said:
note with the G110v2 (PC, GG6), you can swap out backing plates enabling you to use different size pads and carpet attachment as well (the Flex backing plate is fixed). if you could get the Griots 6" random orbital (video links below) out there, i would opt for that instead of the G110v2...
Click to expand...



The Flex' nonchangeable backing plate was a dealbreaker for me. Used it a few times and sold it for about what I paid for it. Yeah, it was a quality machine and worked well but I prefer as much versatility as I can get with my tools. I'm always swapping BPs between the Flex rotary, PC and GG6 and prefer 5.5" pads for correction on the DAs. If I'm going to use 6.5 or larger pads I break out the rotary. If the 3401 had changeable backing plates it'd probably make everything else moot and corner the market.



TL
 
TLMitchell said:
If the 3401 had changeable backing plates it'd probably make everything else moot and corner the market.



TL
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Except for the issue of ultimate gloss ;) Regulars here know that I really like the Flex 3401, but I do reach for a different machine once the real correction is done.



I keep finding OK ways to work around the Flex's fixed backing plate size, but yeah...it's a PIA at best. Some ideas that've worked for me: using the outer edge of a big pad, taking off the plastic handle (watch out, that housing gets *HOT* very quickly), and even sticking a 4" pad on the big backing plate for a spot-repair (don't try this at home, kids).
 
Kevin Brown said:
How about getting your hands on the Festool Rotex RO150 FEQ?



You can run it as a random orbital or as a forced rotation orbital. Perhaps the pricing is similar? It's a lot more $$$ here. Between the Flex and the Festool... I much prefer the feel of the Festool.
Click to expand...





The Festool RO150 is exactly double the price of the Megs G110V2 here.

Kevin Brown, what makes it better than a Flex? (the Flex is only a bit cheaper)
 
I recently bought the flex after all the good reviews. I live in Europe and I bought it from Europe (Germany).



The latest models come with a 5,5" plate with modified Velcro to adress earlier issues of Velcro separation. So using pads from 5,5" to 6.5" is not a problem. Spot pads are an issue, but can be used with care in areas where there is freedom for movement.



The feel of the tool is great and the variable speed trigger works perfectly.
 
Ch96067- Welcome to Autopia!



I bet that 5.5" plate is better for most people.



Glad you like the feel of the tool; some people do (myself included), some people don't.
 
Thanks Accumulator! Good to be here. Detailing world, detailed image and cardetailing.gr are the three other sites/forums I follow.



Back on topic. I do feel it nicely in my hands and the stick handle that came with it will make work on vertical panels easier. I have rarely heard a bad word for the flex and that is why I decided to invest upfront. I think however that for LSPs I 'll be using my sander as it is much lighter and spreading thin layers is the only need.
 
Ch96067 said:
.. I have rarely heard a bad word for the flex and that is why I decided to invest upfront. I think however that for LSPs I 'll be using my sander as it is much lighter and spreading thin layers is the only need.
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I wonder if you'd notice any difference if you did your final polishing with the sander instead of with the Flex :think: I bet it comes down to product/paint/whatever-variables, but I do sometimes think I get a better final finish if I set the Flex aside and do a follow-up with another machine. Since you have both units it's not like the Flex was a bad choice or anything, just mentioned this idea as food for thought.
 
I have done the effort with LC white and 1Z metal polish. Not sure if it helped at all since there wasnt a proper polish step priot to that. However, seeing the small orbit of the sander against the power of the flex i dont think it will be able to break down any diminishing abrassives polishes for the correct jeweling effect.
 
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