Which choice for best durability and shine on white

01bluecls said:


IMO this means that since water beads/sheets after fresh application of wax or sealant, this leads me to believe that the beading tension that the wax provides is there....
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Well beading/sheeting are kind of similar...in the sense that sheeting, the surface is still repelling water to where it just "falls" off. But when sheeting occurs there isnt any "soaking" of water into the paint. SO it still means that sheeting or beading still indicates protection.



Oh by the way, sorry to General Lee for majorly jacking your thread up! :o
 
01bluecls said:
Bill D, thanks for clearing your posts up for me...the problem with online talking is I sometimes cant tell "how" people are saying things and whether they are being sarcastic or not. :)
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No problem. This is so, so true. A lot of flame wars could be avoided by asking for and receiving clarification as we did.
 
ZaneO said:
So how exactly do you know when NXT, EX-P, etc. are gone?
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How easy dust/dirt/crap comes off the paint, how well it sheets, how easy it is to QD, slickness, etc.



EX-P sheets water very well....if the water is just pooling up and going nowhere, then I'd say there's not much protection goin' on :nixweiss
 
EX-P sheets water very well....if the water is just pooling up and going nowhere, then I'd say there's not much protection goin' on :nixweiss [/B][/QUOTE]



Just make sure it's beeding not like a pool of water. Also run your finger across the paint dry and if it screeches or grabs it's not protected, but if it feels smooth and glassy feel you got protection.

P21S on light paint rocks!!
 
On that list Zaino easy answer for your particular question. If you don't mind spending the money try menzerna FMJ. I don't think autopia carries it but they carry other menzerna products, hopefully they'll pick it up. FMJ rocks.
 
01Blue-

Oh by the way, sorry to General Lee for majorly jacking your thread up
No big deal, but since we took slight turn to durability issues let me ask this...

How many of you explain to customers or the people you detail for what certain products do to show you have protection? What I mean is, to the common citizen when they see beading they automatically know there is protection. As we all know some products cause water to sheet. So when the customer sees their car after the first rain or washes it for the first time after you detailed it they expect to see water beading. If you use a product that you know has more sheeting ability than beading, do you explain that to them so when they wash it or it rains they don't automatically think "that wax sure didn't last"
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I Use EX-P on a crystal pearl lexus. So far I have no issues with durability and I love the look. I like it better than NXT for both looks and ease of use
 
I use Zaino with a AIO based for my white daily driver - Escalade.

Too big to be waxing every 2-3 weeks. I wash weekly with 1Z Perls alternating with Z7 and a quick Z6. Two months and still looks, beads, resist dust,dirt and film formation and reflective like just waxed.
 
Of the LSP's you list, I'd go with Zaino for shine and durability, no question.



On the durability question, look if the sealant is designed to sheet and it stops sheeting it is dead. If a sealant is designed to bead and it stops beading, it is dead.



I'm more interested in what everyone considers to be "acceptable beading". Someone recently posted images of their ride with a certain LSP after rain and pointed to the beading as being proof that the LSP was still alive. The beads looked flat, inconsistant in size (some larger "beads" looked like they were up to an 3/4" wide). To my eyes, if I saw beading like that I would be detailing the paint again, the LSP looked dead to me.



Remember that freshly cleaned paint beads water fairly well; to my mind if the "beads" are increasing in size, irregular, with a flat profile the LSP is dead and gone. When I use the term beading, I mean small, tight, regular drops of water that "stand up" on the paint with a high profile.



I wonder if some of the debates we have here regarding the durability of some LSPs (or lack of) are really about individual definitions of beading. I rarely see images of beading attached to reviews of LSP's or any mention made of the size, shape and consistancy of the beading, all we get are comments like "still beading after 3 months".



Just a thought...
 
Addendum:

The Zaino beading I still have after 2 months are tiny, tight, round and raised. Just like after application. For clarification the 1Z Perls and Z7 aid in this continual initial application beading appearance.

Hope that clarifies my response about beading. :wavey
 
blkZ28Conv said:
Addendum:

The Zaino beading I still have after 2 months are tiny, tight, round and raised. Just like after application. For clarification the 1Z Perls and Z7 aid in this continual initial application beading appearance.

Hope that clarifies my response about beading. :wavey
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This is exactly what I call good beading too!



Tiny, round "balls" of water sitting on the surface, which quickly roll off the paint even at moderate speeds, similar to the effect of RainX on glass.
 
RedondoV6 said:
Of the LSP's you list, I'd go with Zaino for shine and durability, no question.



On the durability question, look if the sealant is designed to sheet and it stops sheeting it is dead. If a sealant is designed to bead and it stops beading, it is dead.



I'm more interested in what everyone considers to be "acceptable beading". Someone recently posted images of their ride with a certain LSP after rain and pointed to the beading as being proof that the LSP was still alive. The beads looked flat, inconsistant in size (some larger "beads" looked like they were up to an 3/4" wide). To my eyes, if I saw beading like that I would be detailing the paint again, the LSP looked dead to me.



Remember that freshly cleaned paint beads water fairly well; to my mind if the "beads" are increasing in size, irregular, with a flat profile the LSP is dead and gone. When I use the term beading, I mean small, tight, regular drops of water that "stand up" on the paint with a high profile.



I wonder if some of the debates we have here regarding the durability of some LSPs (or lack of) are really about individual definitions of beading. I rarely see images of beading attached to reviews of LSP's or any mention made of the size, shape and consistancy of the beading, all we get are comments like "still beading after 3 months".



Just a thought...
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Very true..... :bow I used to think that just beading was proof, but after realizing that beading caused by LSP have a certain profile (simetricity) I now can see a difference in the beading patterns.



Back on the original topic, check the white mustang in click and brag (VM and EX-P :up)





Alex
 
01bluecls said:
Really? I get more beading than sheeting action with NXT for some reason. :nixweiss
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It sheets well when you blast it with water or when you remove the nozzle and slowly run water over the car. It ends up nearly dry. With most carnaubas, water sheets off too, but you still have light beading too.
 
General Lee said:




No big deal, but since we took slight turn to durability issues let me ask this...

How many of you explain to customers or the people you detail for what certain products do to show you have protection? What I mean is, to the common citizen when they see beading they automatically know there is protection. As we all know some products cause water to sheet. So when the customer sees their car after the first rain or washes it for the first time after you detailed it they expect to see water beading. If you use a product that you know has more sheeting ability than beading, do you explain that to them so when they wash it or it rains they don't automatically think "that wax sure didn't last"
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EX-P sheets like crazy when you blast it with high pressure, but it bead when it rains.
 
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