What is your Slickest/Cleanest Rinsing LSP?

Accum,



I have had the pseudo halos but it was because I did not remove all the oils on the paint before I used FK1000p. Once I restriped and cleaned the paint, it worked like a charm again.



something is wrong if the slickness is lacking with 1000p, I would venture to say unless you have 3 coats you prob dont have enough cover. When my slickness decreases its because its wearing down, clean and add two coats.



GREG
 
Fk1000 gave VERY slick finish for me and certainly is extremely easy to clean.



I think UPGP and Vintage might release more purely from non-touch methods though.



The ultimate slick product for me is probably just UPGP, although Z-2 runs it very close and Z-8 leaves an extremely slick finish along with OCWv2.
 
Greg Nichols said:
Accum,



I have had the pseudo halos but it was because I did not remove all the oils on the paint before I used FK1000p. Once I restriped and cleaned the paint, it worked like a charm again.



That's what I woulda expected. I had the same thing happen with UPP when I tried using it over the wrong stuff (sometimes it's funny which combos work/don't).
 
I used FK1 425 and it is by far the best spray detailer I ever used.

But I think they changed the formula a little or maybe just the scent. It used to smell like bubblegum. My last bottle I got didn't and the color was slightly different. But I will be buying another. And for the Collinite 476 users, not sure whats great about that. Not a fan of it. But like the 845 a lot.
 
Accumulator said:
Hmmm..interesting that the FK1000P wasn't all that slick :think:



And that's the first I've heard of the FK1000P doing the pseudo-hologram thing. Anybody else had that happen?



Well, here were my steps - and all this is only on the gas cap which is what I'm testing it on:

-clay

-mothers scratch remover

-mothers phase 1 pre-wax cleaner

-isopropyl alcohol 91% wipe down

-FK2180 x2

-FK1000p x >2



I put each layer on about 20 minutes after each other. For the FK1000p I may have ended up putting on around 10 layers. The problem was it looked like it wasn't applying. I first tried a microfiber. Nothing looks like it went on, waited and nothing hazed. So I tried to wet the microfiber, still nothing. So I tried to rub a lot more from the jar, still nothing. So I went to a foam applicator, it would show like a centimeter of coverage and vanish. Then I tried a wet foam, still nothing. Finally, I tried the dry foam again and really rubbed in the tin to try to cover the foam with it. That finally worked. I counted this as my first coat. Then I waited till the next morning and did one more coat. It was easier this time. Maybe my tin had a layer of 1000p that was hardened on top so I wasn't actually getting any on the applicator until I broke through that layer. The last layer I wiped off at least 20 minutes later. I saw the holograms 3 days later when I pulled the car into the sun. I was worried they were in the paint from the scratch remover or pre-wax cleaner, or maybe from rubbing so much with the applicator when there was no wax on it. But it cleaned up from the FK425 so I'm glad.



Could the holograms be from putting two many layers of FK products on one after another and they all try to cure together?



I also had another panel I tested straight 1000p on and it did not hologram, but what I saw 1 day later after the last layer was a light powdery haze formed on it, that seemed to appear after the car sat in the sun almost like the heat drove out more chemicals and caused it to haze on top. My gas cap did not show this though, just the hologram. I wonder if it could also be caused by overapplication since I have to rub quite a bit to get the applicator going before it applies correctly, and was only using it on the space of a gas cap. Though the removal step was very easy and clean. Another possibility is contamination from the wipe-off microfiber. I was testing 6 products and use the same MF to wipe off the residue from all of them.



Now the slickness, I definitely have enough layers that coverage is not the issue. I actually have 1000p on 3 different test panels, 2 are bare 1000p x 2, and one is many layers over 2180. Now maybe my perception of slickness is skewed because UPGP might be just so much slicker than the norm. But it seems to me there is this smooth type of luxuriouis feel to the paint with 1000p on it, a bit of a smooth resistance. UPGP just feels like you are sliding off of it like there was some teflon lubricant or something sitting on the surface.



Actually, I think FK215 might feel slicker than 1000p and 2180, I have that on another test panel. Maybe I should try a 215, 2180 x2, 1000p x2 panel and see how that performs.
 
bcwang- Thanks for the explanation. Hm...did you use FK425 on the applicator? I've applied with both MF and foam, but I always dampen the app with FK425. Sometimes I even give a little squirt right into the can of FK1000P.



Were the pseudo holograms layers-deep or did they seem to be only on the topmost surface?



Oh, and that's interesting about the UPGP being so slick!





WaxManRonnie said:
I used FK1 425 and it is by far the best spray detailer I ever used.

But I think they changed the formula a little or maybe just the scent. It used to smell like bubblegum. My last bottle I got didn't and the color was slightly different...





Hm...what does it smell like now?



[quoet].. And for the Collinite 476 users, not sure whats great about that..[/QUOTE]



For me, it sheds water/dirt and lasts seemingly forever (last coat went on the Yukon in late summer, drove it all winter, still doesn't need redone). And it's a little more forgiving on imperfect paint than the FK1000P and bonds well over 1Z polishes (the ones that leave stuff behind). Seems to give a nice carnauba look on certain paints.



Don't get me wrong, I *really* like FK1000P for vehicles where a sealant is the way I'm going.
 
Strange, my UPGP is NOT exceptionally slick. It even holds the water quite strongly when I open my trunklid and the smaller beads stay put on the vertical lid...
 
Bence said:
Strange, my UPGP is NOT exceptionally slick. It even holds the water quite strongly when I open my trunklid and the smaller beads stay put on the vertical lid...





I agree. I put on 3 layers of UPGP with about 12 hours between each layer, and I wasn't impressed with the slickness at all. I added a layer of opti-seal and the slickness improved as well as water shedding ability. The 2 layers of FK1000 on my other car feels much slicker than both of these .



I also had what looked to be holograms after applying a 2nd layer of FK1000, but it was just some oily residue on the surface. Buffing it off with a clean microfiber took care of it. I didn't have this oily residue after the first layer though, weird.
 
accumulator,



I did use 425 on one of my application attempts but it failed except to move 425 around, no haze ever formed so it seems like I never got 1000p applied that way. I finally settled on a dry foam applicator with making sure the wax was on it before I started. As for the holograms, it looked like just an oily surface. Once I used 425 and wiped away it seemed to have gone away. I still haven't had a chance to check again in bright sunlight, but I'm pretty sure it's gone based on the before and after with my flashlight.



Bence,

I've had UPGP not work too well and some poor paint conditions or what not. But if I clay, polish, IPA, UPP, then UPGP. It is exceptionally slick after I let it cure the full 12 hours. I've tried that combo on a few different cars and it always worked extremely well. I've also applied upgp directly to a car whose paint was not in the greatest shape and it didn't last nor feel very slick. So it seems to create much more additional slickness to a smooth surface compared to other products, but cannot help if the surface is rough to begin with. A wax seems to do better on the rougher surfaces leaving more slickness through a layer of stuff.



toyotaguy,

No, I did everything by hand on the gas cap. All products applied by hand.
 
yo2tup said:
I agree. I put on 3 layers of UPGP with about 12 hours between each layer, and I wasn't impressed with the slickness at all. I added a layer of opti-seal and the slickness improved as well as water shedding ability. The 2 layers of FK1000 on my other car feels much slicker than both of these .



I also had what looked to be holograms after applying a 2nd layer of FK1000, but it was just some oily residue on the surface. Buffing it off with a clean microfiber took care of it. I didn't have this oily residue after the first layer though, weird.



I wonder if the fully prepped surface is required for UPGP to feel exceptionally slick. It might go on thinner than other products being a wowa, or be particularly susceptible to paint condition or left over polishing oils. But I've seen where UPGP is not slick no matter how many layers I add. Yet, when I'm doing a product test and prepping small areas fully before applying each product, UPGP with UPP underneath is clearly the slickest surface. Maybe this is the reason UPGP doesn't bead well or seem to last long on 2 of my cars, but bead and last very long on my other car. Except on the small test panels I fully prep where UPP+UPGP work exceptionally well even on those 2 cars that it generally doesn't do so well. When doing tests I fully do a 91% IPA wipedown on the areas to make sure each product is acting without hindrance. This may be an area where UPGP is not good with any product underneath, even maybe the leftover polymers of an ONR wash. Maybe even the applicator having touched something else be it dirt or oil, may make the entire application weak. I'm not sure but I do notice dramatically inconsistent results with UPGP except when I have the time to do my controlled tests.



Yeah, the hologram thing I saw also looked like an oily surface. I don't know where it came from, it seemed to have formed later as I'm pretty sure it wiped off clean during the wipe off.
 
Bigpikle said:
Fk1000 gave VERY slick finish for me and certainly is extremely easy to clean.



I think UPGP and Vintage might release more purely from non-touch methods though.



The ultimate slick product for me is probably just UPGP, although Z-2 runs it very close and Z-8 leaves an extremely slick finish along with OCWv2.



*Totally* agree.





The difference in slickness between one coat of UPGP and three coats of UPGP is huge. For those guys not seeing good slickness with UPGP, try a total of three coats. Let the last coat cure for at least 12 hours, then go over it with a *good* QD like 425 or Z8. For some reason, UPGP doesn't really show it's slickness til after it's either washed or QD'd once.
 
I forgot I tried wolfgang plastik sealant on my paint, and it was about as slick as UPGP, which is very slick. Still need to test durability.



I wonder if wolfgang plastik sealant is just wolfgang dgps original....anyone know?
 
Ok, got some new products and put them to the test.



Wolfgang DGPS 3.0 is very slick, might contend with UPGP for ultimate slickness. I'll have to wait a day until they both fully cure to make sure, but during removal, DGPS was extremely slick, more so than any of my other wipe off products.



Fuzion on the other hand isn't very slick at all, which is disappointing. I thought it was supposed to be quite slick. Maybe it needs to cure too before becoming slicker. Wiping it off the towel really grabbed the paint.



I still can't get much slickness out of 1000p either, I wonder if there is something wrong with my sample size.
 
I would have to say and I am not a master waxer or anything, but for the money Megs NXT, or M21 hard to beet for something on the shelf for under 20 bucks.

I really want to try DG 105 and the car wash but can't seem to find it around here so far.

I really like M21 topped with #26 on a metalic silver paint it is "bitchin"



It last most of the summer here with normal washes and a spray of Last Touch after drying.



Just my 2 cents.
 
I'd say Vintage, then SW Concorso, then 476s, then Megs #16, then DG105. If Vintage has excessive silicone it's the only product that does and doesn't impact my polishing, which seems odd.
 
SuperBee364 said:
OK, this is a first... I'm disagreeing with Bence!



Bence, I just looked up every ingredient in Vintage. I'm not seeing any silicone at all, but then again, I'm not even close to your level of understanding the ingredients in car care products. Which of the listed ingredients in Vintage is the silicone part??



Edit: Here's the ingredients in Vintage (from Zymol's web site):



Ingredients: White Carnauba Sap/Wax, Montan Evergreen Oil, Sunflower Oil, Cantaloupe Oil, Honeydew Extract, Propolis (derived from Bees), Cetyl Esters, Cetyl Cocoamide (derived from coconut oil)



Do you know of a wax company that discloses its complete formula? ;)
 
I'm pretty sure that in the USA the MSDS must list stuff like Silicone. This is not something you can skirt the law with. I'm going to check on the law pertaining to msds listings.



Cheers,

GREG
 
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