SNP209
New member
Try using a brush with stiffer bristles, like a tooth brush.
What did you do detailing wise today?
- Thread starter Bunky
- Start date
Try using a brush with stiffer bristles, like a tooth brush.
BudgetPlan1
Active member
Wheels & Tires
rlmccarty2000
Active member
You should shoot a video and post it here. I’ve got a Chinese longthrow and I want to repack it. A video would be nice.
The Guz
Mike
With Matte Dash it could be the cleaner but it could also be the material it is used on. How many sprays did you put into the applicator? Also what type of applicator? If it is a foam applicator then I am going to recommend to use more than 2 sprays especially when first priming the pad. If not it streaks or can even gum up into little balls. It also does it on a hot surface. But it is not going to darken whatsoever. It is going to look like you applied nothing to the surface. gtechniq also recommends a second coat 24 hours later.
Did you buff off any excess product from Perl?
My personal favorite is Gyeon Preserve for interiors. It looks greasy upon application but it becomes more matte as it is buffed down.
Try a stiffer brush next time.
Mr. Slick
New member
Who else gets their rental vehicles ready before a trip?
The wheels and wheel wells were dirty so I washed and dressed them, spray waxed the whole thing and did the interior
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
The wheels and wheel wells were dirty so I washed and dressed them, spray waxed the whole thing and did the interior
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
From the `No good deed goes unpunished` department:
My wife asked our neighbor to help her fix the drywall around the washing machine after a faucet repair. I can do it, but it is in the garage, and we are being required by the our insurer to repipe soon. She moved her car (2 years old, never corrected, and the paint looks fantastic after 2 years of rinseless washes) out of the garage to allow better access. Well during the clean up, the neighbor had an issue with my firehose nozzle and shutoff valve combo, and sprayed the car with wallboard dust. My wife tried to "help" and rinsed the car off with the hose. It looked OK when I quickly looked at it the day it happened, but when I pulled it out for a wash Saturday I could see waterspots. I soaked the car with Adam`s Waterless Wash (mixed from Rinseless Wash) loaded in a IK Multi-Sprayer, and that helped some. During the wash with a MF wash mitt I could see more of the waterspots disappearing. But after spritzing the panel with "Elixir" and drying it I could faintly see a few still remained, so once summer is gone (late October around here) I will need to finally put a polisher on this car.
:angry:
My wife asked our neighbor to help her fix the drywall around the washing machine after a faucet repair. I can do it, but it is in the garage, and we are being required by the our insurer to repipe soon. She moved her car (2 years old, never corrected, and the paint looks fantastic after 2 years of rinseless washes) out of the garage to allow better access. Well during the clean up, the neighbor had an issue with my firehose nozzle and shutoff valve combo, and sprayed the car with wallboard dust. My wife tried to "help" and rinsed the car off with the hose. It looked OK when I quickly looked at it the day it happened, but when I pulled it out for a wash Saturday I could see waterspots. I soaked the car with Adam`s Waterless Wash (mixed from Rinseless Wash) loaded in a IK Multi-Sprayer, and that helped some. During the wash with a MF wash mitt I could see more of the waterspots disappearing. But after spritzing the panel with "Elixir" and drying it I could faintly see a few still remained, so once summer is gone (late October around here) I will need to finally put a polisher on this car.
:angry:
Dozerboy
Detailing Reject
Assassinated a bunch of butterflies... I want to wash it so bad, but tomorrow it will look the same again.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
bob m
New member
Finally finished (except for door sills, windows and some trim) recoating my Allroad.
Original coating applied about 2.5 years ago and various and toppers since then. All in all has held up well, but it was in needing a recoat.
Washed, Tar Remover, Iron Remover, clayed, polished, Eraser and coatings - Kamikaze`s Zipang followed by Miyabi and then Zipang.
Original coating applied about 2.5 years ago and various and toppers since then. All in all has held up well, but it was in needing a recoat.
Washed, Tar Remover, Iron Remover, clayed, polished, Eraser and coatings - Kamikaze`s Zipang followed by Miyabi and then Zipang.
Attachments
Mary B
New member
Finally got the BF Coating Booster on my BF coated DD.
Paint Pop was noticeable as well as slickness.
The booster was almost crunchy when buffing, but buffed out wonderfully.
My paint was a bit warm, so I did small sections, sprayed the towel not the body and buffed immediately with a separate towel.
I’m so glad I did a coating on this truck, just enjoying everything about it !
Paint Pop was noticeable as well as slickness.
The booster was almost crunchy when buffing, but buffed out wonderfully.
My paint was a bit warm, so I did small sections, sprayed the towel not the body and buffed immediately with a separate towel.
I’m so glad I did a coating on this truck, just enjoying everything about it !
The Driver
Detailers Workshop
Scrubbed my hair for an hour getting out all the single stage paint! My invasive job ever..
Pix coming soon, dun dun duh.
Pix coming soon, dun dun duh.
Did some testing of new products when washed the Ford Focus I maintain. As it`s needed to have a refresh of the LSP. I started with a strong prewash snow foam called King Carthur Total Snow Foam. It`s a high alkaline prewash foam that`s not wax safe. And still after this foamed on and let it dwell and then clean rinsing it off. There where traces of the 6 months old Sonax Spray & Seal. What`s I have noticed is these spray on rinse off products works extremly good on the side windows. It was like after the application of it. And when I applyied the new version of Gyeon Wet Coat on them it was basicly the same water behavior on it. Anyone else uses these spray on rinse off products on the whole car and see this awesome durability on the glass where you don`t have wipers?
Moving on to the wash I tried Sonax Rich Foam Schampoo in the bucket. It`s also a prewash foam to foam on the car and let it dwell and rinse off. In the bucket it smelled awesome of fresh berries. And the lubrication and suds was very good. Will have to use a little more to see how the cleaning ability is. Since I`m used to Carpro Reset car soap and Tac System Mystic Bubble where the cleaning ability is top notch. It was feeling a little less from the Sonax but still did it`s job good.
Drying with the Sonax twisted loop nap mf drying towel. And then applyied Turtle Wax ICE Seal N Shine on the roof and the hood. Not a good time when rain was about to start so high humidity. Needed a good buff to get it to feel slick. Also the car needs to be polished so like a wash and wax job. On the rest of the car I applyied the new version of Gyeon Wet Coat. Man is this a great product. 2 mist on a wet panel and spread it out with a mf sponge applicator. And then PW with hitting every part of where it`s applyied. Many thinks it`s water activated but it`s actually the pressure it gets a higher performance from it. So the Kärcher K7 PW did an awesome job to get the highest water behavior as possible. Cool to see how the water behavior goes from non to almost like a full blown ceramic coating from the water behavior. Will be fun to see how both the TW SNS and Gyeon Wet Coat behaves compared to each other. Wet Coat has gone from 3 months up to almost 5 months longevity from it. And TW SNS is around that too I think or if it`s last longer than 5 months it`s very impresive.
Moving on to the wash I tried Sonax Rich Foam Schampoo in the bucket. It`s also a prewash foam to foam on the car and let it dwell and rinse off. In the bucket it smelled awesome of fresh berries. And the lubrication and suds was very good. Will have to use a little more to see how the cleaning ability is. Since I`m used to Carpro Reset car soap and Tac System Mystic Bubble where the cleaning ability is top notch. It was feeling a little less from the Sonax but still did it`s job good.
Drying with the Sonax twisted loop nap mf drying towel. And then applyied Turtle Wax ICE Seal N Shine on the roof and the hood. Not a good time when rain was about to start so high humidity. Needed a good buff to get it to feel slick. Also the car needs to be polished so like a wash and wax job. On the rest of the car I applyied the new version of Gyeon Wet Coat. Man is this a great product. 2 mist on a wet panel and spread it out with a mf sponge applicator. And then PW with hitting every part of where it`s applyied. Many thinks it`s water activated but it`s actually the pressure it gets a higher performance from it. So the Kärcher K7 PW did an awesome job to get the highest water behavior as possible. Cool to see how the water behavior goes from non to almost like a full blown ceramic coating from the water behavior. Will be fun to see how both the TW SNS and Gyeon Wet Coat behaves compared to each other. Wet Coat has gone from 3 months up to almost 5 months longevity from it. And TW SNS is around that too I think or if it`s last longer than 5 months it`s very impresive.
Last week we bought a car for our youngest son, a 2013 Mini Paceman (he`s a Mini fanatic). Today, he and I started detailing it.
We began by spraying the front with Bug Out and then washed with Dawn to remove whatever crap the dealer might have put on it. Then an Iron-X decontamination and thorough rinse. Then we clayed it using GG Brilliant Finish synthetic clay (first time using it -- really like it). Then another wash, this time with Adam`s shampoo. Finally, we put Reload on it. It`s a 6 year old car with 98K miles so it isn`t perfect. It would benefit from a polish but I`ve never done that and am not about to experiment on my son`s "new" car. Even without polishing, it`s a huge improvement and feels silky smooth. We still need to attack the interior and engine bay.
We began by spraying the front with Bug Out and then washed with Dawn to remove whatever crap the dealer might have put on it. Then an Iron-X decontamination and thorough rinse. Then we clayed it using GG Brilliant Finish synthetic clay (first time using it -- really like it). Then another wash, this time with Adam`s shampoo. Finally, we put Reload on it. It`s a 6 year old car with 98K miles so it isn`t perfect. It would benefit from a polish but I`ve never done that and am not about to experiment on my son`s "new" car. Even without polishing, it`s a huge improvement and feels silky smooth. We still need to attack the interior and engine bay.
My wife asked me to clean out the cooler in preparation for Saturday`s BBQ. It`s been sitting outside for months. So I hit the textured lid with Griot`s wheel cleaner and a Tuf Shine brush. Rinsed, and mixed up some Chemical Guys V07 car wash and a chenille wash mitt. The V07 is completely useless except for cleaning things that aren`t cars and so it was perfect for this application. After, I strongly considered hitting the plastic with Bead Maker or Blackfire Tire & Trim but ultimately decided against it.
BudgetPlan1
Active member
Hopefully the last set of wheels for the next year or two. Why does it always end up being 90+ degrees when I decide this is a good idea?
Will start a thread tomorrow, but today I applied my first ever coat of 22PLE HPC.
Spent yesterday polishing my whole truck (2017 RAM 1500 quad cab). I applied Optimum Gloss Coat right after I bought it in October of `17. I hate dealing with the fall for detailing so I moved it up to the summer instead. One complete polish to make sure the gloss coat was gone, then today some minor corrections.
Hit a snag because my Optimum Hyper Polish was leaving random spots of stubborn residue...ended up hitting each panel with Optimum Power Clean at 4:1, then IPA wipedown, then Eraser just before coating.
Have to say Im impressed with the HPC. A lot less grabby (during application) than the Gloss Coat was, and even on my Bright White truck I was able to see where I applied it and when it was ready to remove. The working time was excellent too, even in our humidity I was able to easily remove from the panel after 10 minutes. I know the bottle says 3-5 but Im guessing real world says different. I figure if its still easy to take off, Ill give it all the time it needs....I basically did one panel, then a second, then went back and wiped off the previous. Until the whole truck was done.
One more coat coming up tomorrow!
Spent yesterday polishing my whole truck (2017 RAM 1500 quad cab). I applied Optimum Gloss Coat right after I bought it in October of `17. I hate dealing with the fall for detailing so I moved it up to the summer instead. One complete polish to make sure the gloss coat was gone, then today some minor corrections.
Hit a snag because my Optimum Hyper Polish was leaving random spots of stubborn residue...ended up hitting each panel with Optimum Power Clean at 4:1, then IPA wipedown, then Eraser just before coating.
Have to say Im impressed with the HPC. A lot less grabby (during application) than the Gloss Coat was, and even on my Bright White truck I was able to see where I applied it and when it was ready to remove. The working time was excellent too, even in our humidity I was able to easily remove from the panel after 10 minutes. I know the bottle says 3-5 but Im guessing real world says different. I figure if its still easy to take off, Ill give it all the time it needs....I basically did one panel, then a second, then went back and wiped off the previous. Until the whole truck was done.
One more coat coming up tomorrow!
Coatings=crack
Active member
I just did my first polish in May. It’s pretty easy if your just looking to polish. Long as you keep moving almost impossible to damage paint
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Spent the long weekend re-coating my 2017 RAM 1500.
Had applied Optimum Gloss Coat when I first bought it (October `17) so it was about time to re-do the coating. This time I went with 22ple HPC....shout out to BudgetPlan1 for the materials suggestions and just plain great help and tips
Typical wash the truck so I dont have pics of it.
I did take the chance to compare IronX to Britemax Iron Max....I really liked the Iron Max. Since it acted more like a "gel" it stayed on the paint much better. Does it make a difference in the end? Not sure, but I felt like the extra dwell time would be more helpful than spraying and watching most of the material end up on the ground.
IronX left, Iron Max right:
I then hit a few panels with a NanoSkin DA pad. After using that I tried the baggie trick and the paint still didnt feel 100% smooth to me. So I abandoned the NanoSkin and went old school....actual claybar. Luckily the truck wasn`t really bad to begin with, so it didnt take TOO long to finish claying.
Then went over the whole truck with my HF DA, a white lake country pad and Optimum HyperPolish. I wanted to be 100% sure the previous Gloss Coat application was gone, I figured the best way to be sure was to polish everything. Once that was done I did a fairly quick assessment of what was left....some swirls, mostly where things (and people) go in and out of the truck - door edges, pickup bed rails, etc. I hit those spots with my Meguiars microfiber pad and the same Hyper Polish. I have to say the Meguiars mf pads are something I forget about but always love having. They made quick work of removing the swirls and even left a pretty good finish. But just to be sure I cleaned it up with the white pad.
As I was polishing I was careful (because of previous experience) to make sure and wipe down each panel so the polish residue wouldn`t stick. Unfortunately I either wasnt fast enough, missed some spots, or HyperPolish hates me but I ended up with some small spots that had VERY stubborn residue leftover. 12% IPA and Eraser wipedowns did NOT touch it, at least not without pressing more than I wanted to. In the interested of being thorough, I hit each panel with a 4:1 Optimum PowerClean wipdedown, then another IPA wipedown right after to make sure the PowerClean was gone.
Stubborn residue (below the LED spots under the taped emblem):
Just before coating each panel I did an Eraser wipedown....first time Ive used Eraser and I like it mostly because i feels more "lubricious" than just IPA. Just stumbled on a thread about how Eraser might interfere with HPC but I guess its too late now! I think BudgetPlan used it without issue so I think Im good to go (it was an old thread so maybe things have changed by now)
As far as the coating....Im impressed. It was painfully easy to use (other than the crappy bottle!) to the point I was sure I must have been doing it wrong. Truck was garaged in shade but it was hot and humid outside. Just for the heck of it I left the coating on one panel for almost 15 minutes (!!!) and it still wiped off with little to no effort (using TRC Peral or Edgeless 365). The surface feel left behind is great....definitely not coating like, more like a sealant....smooth and slick, not grabby at all.
After applying:
After setup and ready for removal:
I did 2 coats total and the 50mL bottle BARELY made it (and in fact, did NOT make it....I didnt get to do the tailgate). I may have over-used it a bit, I feel like I lost some while I was futzing with getting drops out of the bottle. BudgetPlan gave me a great tip - plastic pipettes, transfer the liquid into one of them to drop onto the applicator. BTW, AutoFiber Saver Applicators are spectacular....once you get used to them. If I didnt make a nice straight line of coating, when I applied it to a panel I was getting "gaps" between the "tracks" of coating. Since I went once vertical and once horizontal, it spread out pretty well after that, but I tried to keep a nice line on the applicator at all times. That might have cost me some coating, but the flipside is that I feel like the applicator made it go a lot further than the standard foam pad or even suede cloth.
Huge thanks to BudgetPlan for everything! I hope I did it all justice....some of my pics arent the greatest but the whole album is here if you want to take a look: https://photos.app.goo.gl/D9tNgfGZS7xxfwpf6
-Chris
Had applied Optimum Gloss Coat when I first bought it (October `17) so it was about time to re-do the coating. This time I went with 22ple HPC....shout out to BudgetPlan1 for the materials suggestions and just plain great help and tips
Typical wash the truck so I dont have pics of it.
I did take the chance to compare IronX to Britemax Iron Max....I really liked the Iron Max. Since it acted more like a "gel" it stayed on the paint much better. Does it make a difference in the end? Not sure, but I felt like the extra dwell time would be more helpful than spraying and watching most of the material end up on the ground.
IronX left, Iron Max right:
I then hit a few panels with a NanoSkin DA pad. After using that I tried the baggie trick and the paint still didnt feel 100% smooth to me. So I abandoned the NanoSkin and went old school....actual claybar. Luckily the truck wasn`t really bad to begin with, so it didnt take TOO long to finish claying.
Then went over the whole truck with my HF DA, a white lake country pad and Optimum HyperPolish. I wanted to be 100% sure the previous Gloss Coat application was gone, I figured the best way to be sure was to polish everything. Once that was done I did a fairly quick assessment of what was left....some swirls, mostly where things (and people) go in and out of the truck - door edges, pickup bed rails, etc. I hit those spots with my Meguiars microfiber pad and the same Hyper Polish. I have to say the Meguiars mf pads are something I forget about but always love having. They made quick work of removing the swirls and even left a pretty good finish. But just to be sure I cleaned it up with the white pad.
As I was polishing I was careful (because of previous experience) to make sure and wipe down each panel so the polish residue wouldn`t stick. Unfortunately I either wasnt fast enough, missed some spots, or HyperPolish hates me but I ended up with some small spots that had VERY stubborn residue leftover. 12% IPA and Eraser wipedowns did NOT touch it, at least not without pressing more than I wanted to. In the interested of being thorough, I hit each panel with a 4:1 Optimum PowerClean wipdedown, then another IPA wipedown right after to make sure the PowerClean was gone.
Stubborn residue (below the LED spots under the taped emblem):
Just before coating each panel I did an Eraser wipedown....first time Ive used Eraser and I like it mostly because i feels more "lubricious" than just IPA. Just stumbled on a thread about how Eraser might interfere with HPC but I guess its too late now! I think BudgetPlan used it without issue so I think Im good to go (it was an old thread so maybe things have changed by now)
As far as the coating....Im impressed. It was painfully easy to use (other than the crappy bottle!) to the point I was sure I must have been doing it wrong. Truck was garaged in shade but it was hot and humid outside. Just for the heck of it I left the coating on one panel for almost 15 minutes (!!!) and it still wiped off with little to no effort (using TRC Peral or Edgeless 365). The surface feel left behind is great....definitely not coating like, more like a sealant....smooth and slick, not grabby at all.
After applying:
After setup and ready for removal:
I did 2 coats total and the 50mL bottle BARELY made it (and in fact, did NOT make it....I didnt get to do the tailgate). I may have over-used it a bit, I feel like I lost some while I was futzing with getting drops out of the bottle. BudgetPlan gave me a great tip - plastic pipettes, transfer the liquid into one of them to drop onto the applicator. BTW, AutoFiber Saver Applicators are spectacular....once you get used to them. If I didnt make a nice straight line of coating, when I applied it to a panel I was getting "gaps" between the "tracks" of coating. Since I went once vertical and once horizontal, it spread out pretty well after that, but I tried to keep a nice line on the applicator at all times. That might have cost me some coating, but the flipside is that I feel like the applicator made it go a lot further than the standard foam pad or even suede cloth.
Huge thanks to BudgetPlan for everything! I hope I did it all justice....some of my pics arent the greatest but the whole album is here if you want to take a look: https://photos.app.goo.gl/D9tNgfGZS7xxfwpf6
-Chris
Britsdaddy
New member
Nice job. I`ve coated my truck twice as well and I know how much work you have to do. The second time I did it I broke the truck in half
Alas, looking at it in the sun, I noticed a few spots I missed.
2 with some extra swirls in them and 1 where I apparently didnt remove the HPC in time (or at all). Thought I was careful, guess I was not!
Since I needed more for the tailgate anyway, the 30mL on the way will work to fix those areas. Going to let it cure until the weekend then hit those areas as surgically as I can to minimize how much re-coating I need to do. Maybe I can get away without doing the whole panel?
2 with some extra swirls in them and 1 where I apparently didnt remove the HPC in time (or at all). Thought I was careful, guess I was not!
Since I needed more for the tailgate anyway, the 30mL on the way will work to fix those areas. Going to let it cure until the weekend then hit those areas as surgically as I can to minimize how much re-coating I need to do. Maybe I can get away without doing the whole panel?
Mary B
New member
Began the strip process of sealant & wax caked GQ.
Trying this decon soap, looking for foam ability and strength.
The foam action, w/ ik foamier.
The beading action before.
After 1 manual wash and rinse.
The hood, that had Dr. Beasley’s plasma. At first not too
bad, but a few minutes it went to this
Well... I’m taking her inside this coming weekend to let it dwell under foam, then wash a few more times.
All in all, not bad !
I have several sealants and untold layers of wax.
If this soap did this well in 1 wash I’m hopeful
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Trying this decon soap, looking for foam ability and strength.
The foam action, w/ ik foamier.
The beading action before.
After 1 manual wash and rinse.
The hood, that had Dr. Beasley’s plasma. At first not too
bad, but a few minutes it went to this
Well... I’m taking her inside this coming weekend to let it dwell under foam, then wash a few more times.
All in all, not bad !
I have several sealants and untold layers of wax.
If this soap did this well in 1 wash I’m hopeful
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk