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someidiot said:I haven't seen LUSTR's how-to.. can someone post a link, please?
someidiot said:I haven't seen LUSTR's how-to.. can someone post a link, please?
someidiot said:Thanks Ralph. Are there how-tos for KAIO also?
LUSTR said:I really hope more people start using that method and badmouthing KSG. It's not the quickest removal process but it's nowhere near hard to remove. Oh and definitely put another layer or two on there and you'll be all set for a while.
jabber said:In using this method I am using ONR for my QD. If I put the KSG on and then leave it for 15-20 minutes and remove it by spraying ONR on and wiping off, am I removing too much of the KSG?
I have now put on 3 layers, and visually, I don't really see too much of a difference.
How can I make sure I am actually adding anything to the paint?
Heh heh, I can't resist answering with- "do it without using ONR"I find that merely fogging the surface with my breath imparts enough moisture to make the wipe off basically effortless (and the longer I wait to buff it off, the easier it seems to be).
Accumulator said:IMO probably not, but that's just a wild guess (my line of thinking: bonded KSG oughta stick, residue oughta clean off). But ONR *is* a cleaner....
I see *subtle* diffs up to three-four layers, but they *are* subtle and might not be discernable on every paint by every observer.
Heh heh, I can't resist answering with- "do it without using ONR"I find that merely fogging the surface with my breath imparts enough moisture to make the wipe off basically effortless (and the longer I wait to buff it off, the easier it seems to be).
jabber said:So you don't use anything to buff it off? Just a dry MF and some hot air? How much pressure is required to buff it out?
Accumulator said:I find that merely fogging the surface with my breath imparts enough moisture to make the wipe off basically effortless.
Alfisti said:After a whole car, doesn't that make you dizzy?
Accumulator said:You mean after a whole *minivan*!!
But nah, nothing to it...I'm in pretty good shape
For that matter, I did it when buffing off FK1000P, and that was nonstop on the Yukon XLD...
Accumulator said:Right, nothing but my, heh heh..."hot air" :chuckle:
Virtually zero pressure is required and I can get it off fragile surfaces with zero marring or other problems. Maybe I'm putting it on thinner than you are; I *am* pretty fanatical about that. Also, I often let it sit overnight before I buff it off, though some say that makes it harder instead of easier for them (guess experiences vary, as the longer I wait the easier it is; I once waited three days and a stupid-thick application buffed off easily).
Actually, IMO the little bit of moisture from the breath condensation really does make a huge diff, and I use that technique with every LSP (and sometimes on glass too). Heh heh, I even do it when I spitshine my dress shoes!
As for "is it there?" you should be able to feel the KSG on the surface, like a plastic coating. I find it one of the most tactilely discernable LSPs out there.
black03mach said:
someidiot said:Great, with the forum update this doesn't seem to work anymore. Does anyone know where I can find this information?
nevermind, found it: http://www.autopia.org/forum/showthread.php?t=120305
someidiot said:I just realized I had really streaky spots on my trunk, so I sprayed on some Meguiar's QD and it came right off. Will the QD/wiping affect KSG's coverage or cure time?