Waxing/polishing a new vehicle, how soon?

[Accumulator]

..Should I purchase the Collinite 845 or one of their other waxes?

Well, much as I like their 476S....I think you maybe oughta buy the 845. Just because it's utterly foolproof. People sometimes have issues with the 476S and I'd rather you have to rewax from time to time if it means a simple, easy job.



And 845 *IS* quick and easy. Doesn't stain black plastic trim either; I *use* it on trim.



Shake it up until it's as thin as milk (and that'll take some shaking). If there's a plug of semi-solid wax in the neck of the bottle, push it down into the rest of the product and shake some more. You can't overdo the shaking and most people don't do it enough.



Apply it with a regular foam wax applicator pad.



Put it on *THIN*. Let it dry until it'll wipe off easily and cleanly if you swipe it with your finger (the "finger-swipe test"). Buff it off with a very soft microfiber towel. Prepare to be amazed by the beading. Reapply when the beading isn't so impressive any more.

 

[salty]

If you are going to order from eshine, Chris has great service, another option is Duragloss 111 or 105 and 951 Aqua Wax. Great products and easy to use. Make sure you pick up their clay, might make a few Americans jealous.



Also pick up some plush MF's.



Don't use the cleaner wax, it might marr your black paint.



Can. Tire has NXT or Syn wax which would be a better option.

 

[Accumulator]

If you are going to order from eshine,... Make sure you pick up their clay, might make a few Americans jealous.

Ooooh...you can get *that* clay huh? Very good stuff indeed!

Don't use the cleaner wax, it might marr your black paint.

Nah, the Meguiar's consumer-line Cleaner Wax won't mar that GM clear. I finish-polish mine with *much* more aggressive stuff than that.

 

[salty]

Since the OP didn't say he was using a machine, I'm thinking he would be doing it by hand. Since most people apply way too much product and pressure, I'm thinking it might marr the paint.

 

[Accumulator]

Since the OP didn't say he was using a machine, I'm thinking he would be doing it by hand. Since most people apply way too much product and pressure, I'm thinking it might marr the paint.

I'm pretty confident he'll be OK as long as he uses nice soft applicators and good MFs for the buffing-off. I have the same paint on my Yukon and unless he uses some inappropriate application/buffing media he'll be OK.



It's hard clear and the Meg's Cleaner Wax is basically functionally nonabrasive on paints like that.



But yeah, those are some good points that're worth bringing up- there's no point in applying a lot of pressure (e.g., to try to make a gentle process more aggressive) and most people *do* use a *LOT* more product than they should. Too much product can lead to buffing issues, which can lead to excessive pressure, which can lead to marring..you're sure right about that.

 

[irv]

I'm pretty confident he'll be OK as long as he uses nice soft applicators and good MFs for the buffing-off. I have the same paint on my Yukon and unless he uses some inappropriate application/buffing media he'll be OK.



It's hard clear and the Meg's Cleaner Wax is basically functionally nonabrasive on paints like that.



But yeah, those are some good points that're worth bringing up- there's no point in applying a lot of pressure (e.g., to try to make a gentle process more aggressive) and most people *do* use a *LOT* more product than they should. Too much product can lead to buffing issues, which can lead to excessive pressure, which can lead to marring..you're sure right about that.

No power tools here, just by hand and I never apply too much/excessive pressure as I always try to keep on top of my wax/mtce schedules.

Thanks for your concern though :goodjob

I haven't looked into eshine.ca with regards to getting some Collinite 845 but when I do I think I will also order some of their MF cloths and their clay, sounds like the way to go.

This wknd I am hoping to put on the Meg's with some terry towels and then when the Collinite, clay and MF's comes in I will use them. Will the Meg's have to be removed or will the clay remove it anyways? Thanks again guy's, appreciate all your help.........Irv:2thumbs:

 

[salty]

Skip the cotton towels, they can be very hit and miss on their softness. Can. Tire has cheap MF's that work well enough when they are new, pull off the tags.



Synwax is like $9, pack of wax applicators $4, pack of cheap MF's $6 =$20

They do have some plusher ones too.

 

[Accumulator]

Yeah, cotton can be quite variable in that regard. Same ol' same ol'...I'd CD-test anything that's gonna touch the paint.

 

[irv]

Forgot to do the CD test on the new MF cloths I bought today but they seemed pretty soft to me?

I finally got around to waxing my truck today, for the most part the applicator and buffing cloth came out pretty clean but I am thinking maybe claying it forst wouldn't have been such a bad idea?

Pics below, I think?



Ok, need help with pics? I go to manage attachments, hit browse, find pics, open, upload but no pics??

 

[irv]

Finally got around to ordering up some Collinite 845 which came in today, I know some have said just to wax right over the Meg's cleaner/wax that I applied, is this the best option or should I try and remove it?

If so, should Dawn dishsoap or something similar be ok to use?

What difference will it make if I just leave the Meg's on?

Do I let the Collinite dry complelely before buffing off?

And lastly to the person who said the Meg's will get in my black trim and I said I never had a problem with it before? Well you were right, it is a bugger to get off, still not sure what is the best thing to use as you can still see it in places!!:wall



Sorry for all the questions.........Irv

 

[HLxDrummer]

Like others have said, I wouldn't let the dealer do it. I worked at a dealer in "new car get ready" last summer and wow. People burning paint, buffing without washing, smearing on wax sloppily,etc. If you don't already know about the two bucket method, soft brushes/etc. I would research a lot.



As long as you wash your car carefully you shouldn't swirl/marr the paint and you won't have to polish as often (which is good since the paint can only take so much).



I would recommend washing, claying, and a good wax as others have said.



Edit: Nice looking truck! I would also recommend using an undercarriage spray in the wheel wells/etc. to help keep them nice and clean



I would also use Dawn before waxing. You shouldn't use it a lot as it can dehydrate the paint, but it will get all of the old stuff off the paint so the new stuff can last longer. This is mainly important with certain types of products like Zaino, but you can probably get away with a regular wash in your case.



How do you like the truck so far?

 

[efnfast]

For everybody saying clay and then wax, I honestly have no ideas how you guys do it - I've yet to run into a car where clay (Meguiars OTC) doesn't cause some minor bit or marring or scratching. I've always needed to follow clay with polish, no matter how careful I am (no, I havn't tried kneeding the clay every 2 square inches though), and I've yet to ~see~ somebody do it 100% mark free either (yes, I know, here on autopia everybody clays to 100% and doesn't have any leftover marks, even on bmw jet black )

 

[Accumulator]

For everybody saying clay and then wax, I honestly have no ideas how you guys do it - I've yet to run into a car where clay (Meguiars OTC) doesn't cause some minor bit or marring or scratching. I've always needed to follow clay with polish, no matter how careful I am (no, I havn't tried kneeding the clay every 2 square inches though), and I've yet to ~see~ somebody do it 100% mark free either (yes, I know, here on autopia everybody clays to 100% and doesn't have any leftover marks, even on bmw jet black )

Maybe try a different clay and try different lubes. Heh heh, I'm not saying you can clay Jet Black or anything like that..but seriously, that oh-so-frequent kneading/replacing is simply a must if you really want to avoid the polishing.



I've never used the Meguiar's clay, and I wonder if that has something to do with it. Wonder how you'd do with Griot's or ClayMagic Blue :think:



Or clay something with Sonus green Ultra-fine using Glyde. As long as it's not stupid-soft clear (and you knead it when it picks up something abrasive) you really should be OK. But that approach will be so mild that the clay will really just clean the LSP that's already on there.



I really don't mean to sound like a smart-@$$ regarding the kneading, hope I didn't come across like a jerk. It's just that the clay really does simply turn into sandpaper the second it picks up something abrasive. It might not be worth sweating...if you don't mind polishing it might be a lot easier than struggling with some crazy "extreme claying" techniques.

Finally got around to ordering up some Collinite 845 which came in today, I know some have said just to wax right over the Meg's cleaner/wax that I applied, is this the best option or should I try and remove it?

If it looks OK with the cleaner-wax on there (no need for polishing), just apply the 845 over top. Cleaner-wax topped with 845 is a decent combo.

If so, should Dawn dishsoap or something similar be ok to use?

If you do that, wash with normal shampoo first as the Dawn lacks lubricity and encapsulation and that might lead to marring. But I wouldn't bother doing it.

What difference will it make if I just leave the Meg's on?

IMO it'll just save time, no real diff, no real downside.

Do I let the Collinite dry complelely before buffing off?

Yes. Shake it up until it's thin as milk. If there's a plug of semi-solid wax in the neck of the bottle, push it down into the rest of the product and shake some more. Shake shake shake, more than you think you need to.

And lastly to the person who said the Meg's will get in my black trim and I said I never had a problem with it before? Well you were right, it is a bugger to get off, still not sure what is the best thing to use as you can still see it in places!!

There are products made just for this..."dried wax removers". Not sure where you'll find them OTC/on short notice though. Note that the 845 does *NOT* stain trim, in fact I *use it* on trim. But you'll need to clean the cleaner-wax off first.

 

[Kean]

For everybody saying clay and then wax, I honestly have no ideas how you guys do it - I've yet to run into a car where clay (Meguiars OTC) doesn't cause some minor bit or marring or scratching. I've always needed to follow clay with polish, no matter how careful I am (no, I havn't tried kneeding the clay every 2 square inches though), and I've yet to ~see~ somebody do it 100% mark free either (yes, I know, here on autopia everybody clays to 100% and doesn't have any leftover marks, even on bmw jet black )

....something else to consider (in addition to what Accumulator mentioned) is the type of paint. Some finishes are simply harder than others and less susceptible to damage. A good example is the relatively soft paint found on Subarus. ....I own two of them (one black and the other gold). I suppose one good thing about it is that they are easy to correct requiring less time and less aggressive methods. On the flip side, the finish is vulnerable to scratches/damage and requires greater care during routine maintenance. I have used the typical OTC clays over the years (Meguiars, Mothers, Clay Magic, etc.). When I initially began claying my black Subaru, I had the same problem. The soft paint was an obvious factor but the solution was found in the use of a more/slicker lube and lighter pressure. Personally, I would look into a finer grade of clay as Accumulator suggested, better lube and perhaps a change in method. Also, try to be careful when making passes over body lines/ridges. If you're having issues with marring while claying, you will likely have even more problems with these particular areas.

 

[irv]

If it looks OK with the cleaner-wax on there (no need for polishing), just apply the 845 over top. Cleaner-wax topped with 845 is a decent combo.







If you do that, wash with normal shampoo first as the Dawn lacks lubricity and encapsulation and that might lead to marring. But I wouldn't bother doing it.





IMO it'll just save time, no real diff, no real downside.





Yes. Shake it up until it's thin as milk. If there's a plug of semi-solid wax in the neck of the bottle, push it down into the rest of the product and shake some more. Shake shake shake, more than you think you need to.







There are products made just for this..."dried wax removers". Not sure where you'll find them OTC/on short notice though. Note that the 845 does *NOT* stain trim, in fact I *use it* on trim. But you'll need to clean the cleaner-wax off first.[/QUOTE]

____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Thanks Accumulator, that is good to know. Just out of curiousity, do you use my pics as a decision maker or is it too hard to tell from them whether the trucks surface looks decent enough to avoid removing the Meg's? (probably a stupid question but I have to know?)

I am looking forward to putting on the Collinite 845 from everything I have heard about it! I did shake the heck out of it last night as it looked quite settled to me and it did turn milky, glad to know that is the way it should be applied.

Thanks again .........Irv

 

[Accumulator]

... Just out of curiousity, do you use my pics as a decision maker or is it too hard to tell from them whether the trucks surface looks decent enough to avoid removing the Meg's? (probably a stupid question but I have to know?)

To be honest, I seldom base *anything* on internet pics. I can't really tell anything at all about your paint's condition. Heh heh, I find it hard enough to evaluate paint *in person*, let alone over the 'net, so this isn't a criticism of your pictures.



I'm approaching it this way- it's apparently good enough *FOR YOU* and IMO that's all that matters. Despite the prevailing attitude here at Autopia that only perfection is acceptable, I just want people to be happy with our their vehicles look *to them*.



If you ever decide that you want to, say....do some polishing, or otherwise make this a lot more complicated, I'll be happy to offer advice on how to do it without driving yourself nuts. But it sounds like you're OK with how it looks with just the cleaner-wax on it, so that's cool with me. Polishing is a pretty big undertaking and I'd only open that can of worms if/when you think it's necessary.

 

[smokin180]

I agree with Accumulator he is right.

 

[irv]

To be honest, I seldom base *anything* on internet pics. I can't really tell anything at all about your paint's condition. Heh heh, I find it hard enough to evaluate paint *in person*, let alone over the 'net, so this isn't a criticism of your pictures.



I'm approaching it this way- it's apparently good enough *FOR YOU* and IMO that's all that matters. Despite the prevailing attitude here at Autopia that only perfection is acceptable, I just want people to be happy with our their vehicles look *to them*.



If you ever decide that you want to, say....do some polishing, or otherwise make this a lot more complicated, I'll be happy to offer advice on how to do it without driving yourself nuts. But it sounds like you're OK with how it looks with just the cleaner-wax on it, so that's cool with me. Polishing is a pretty big undertaking and I'd only open that can of worms if/when you think it's necessary.

Thanks Accumulator, I agree 100%. Although I would like to try and get it to look the best it possibly could, I know the work/mtce required to do so!

I also know I would be come a paranoid freak everytime I had to park it somewhere other than my own driveway.

I have always always gotten compliments about any vehicle I have ever owened, mostly by complete strangers so I know I must be doing something right?

I do keep my vehicles clean and usually try to put wax on a couple times a year, I will continue to follow this procedure with my new truck and I am pretty sure the compliments will be coming very shortly as well?

Thanks for all your help, you have been great :bigups

 

[Accumulator]

irv- Glad to help. I drove my Yukon the other day and was thinking to myself that the Carbon Metallic really *is* one very cool color for these big vehicles, and the Collinite looks mighty good on it.

 

[irv]

irv- Glad to help. I drove my Yukon the other day and was thinking to myself that the Carbon Metallic really *is* one very cool color for these big vehicles, and the Collinite looks mighty good on it.

Good to hear, I can't wait to get some on there, just wish the weather would co-operate :sadpace:



In the thread you replied to about how to "properly apply Collinite #476" above/below this one, do I apply the 845 the same way, a thin light coat with a damp applicator, let it completely dry then wipe off? Thanks again...........Irv