Waxing/polishing a new vehicle, how soon?

irv said:
In the thread you replied to about how to "properly apply Collinite #476" above/below this one, do I apply the 845 the same way, a thin light coat with a damp applicator, let it completely dry then wipe off?



Not quite. With ehe 845 you don't pre-dampen the applicator, just prime it with the 845 (only). Don't get the applicator really *wet* with product, use just enough that it moves smoothly across the paint as opposed to grabbing; you can alway add more as soon as it's needed so try to keep the applicator as dry as possible while still gliding across the paint.



When you're finished I predict you'll be able to squeeze a lot of 845 out of your applicator ;) It's like a test.. whether you used an excessive amount.



Yeah, apply thin but it's not a *huge* deal with 845 (that's one of the things that makes it idiot-proof).



Let it dry until it passes the finger-swipe test (wipes off clean and dry with no smearing). Buff off gently with a soft MF.



I pretty much *always* fog the surface with my breath when buffing off LSPs (of any kind) but that's just me and I don't think it's all that necessary.



I'm confident it'll go well.
 
Accumulator said:
Not quite. With ehe 845 you don't pre-dampen the applicator, just prime it with the 845 (only). Don't get the applicator really *wet* with product, use just enough that it moves smoothly across the paint as opposed to grabbing; you can alway add more as soon as it's needed so try to keep the applicator as dry as possible while still gliding across the paint.



When you're finished I predict you'll be able to squeeze a lot of 845 out of your applicator ;) It's like a test.. whether you used an excessive amount.



Yeah, apply thin but it's not a *huge* deal with 845 (that's one of the things that makes it idiot-proof).



Let it dry until it passes the finger-swipe test (wipes off clean and dry with no smearing). Buff off gently with a soft MF.



I pretty much *always* fog the surface with my breath when buffing off LSPs (of any kind) but that's just me and I don't think it's all that necessary.



I'm confident it'll go well.



Thanks again Accumulator, another rainy cold day again today so another day/wknd lost :wall

Sorry, I am not picking up the *always* fog the surface thing with my breath? What exactly are you looking for or trying to achieve?

Also, when washing a vehicle do you recommend cold, warm or hot water? I have always used warm water and used Turtle Wax car wash soap, seems to work good, lots of suds and puts a bit of a shine back on the surface.
 
irv said:
Sorry, I am not picking up the *always* fog the surface thing with my breath? What exactly are you looking for or trying to achieve?



The little bit of condensation a) makes it easy to see where you do/don't have that ultra-thin layer of unbuffed product, and b) makes it a little easier to buff said residue off. It might even help make for a less streaky result in some cases.



Also, when washing a vehicle do you recommend cold, warm or hot water? I have always used warm water and used Turtle Wax car wash soap, seems to work good, lots of suds and puts a bit of a shine back on the surface.



I use warm. I'd use a better shampoo though...TW lacks lubricity and encapsulation characteristics compared to better shampoos and those can make a bid diff with regard to wash-induced marring.



I used to use TW ZipWax and other cheapie washes, but I decided that better shampoos are definitely money well-spent.



I'd at least upgrade to Gold Class or AquaWax. I myself spend a bundle on Griot's Car Wash and for me it's worth every penny.
 
I wonder if the "fog" from the breath can wreak havoc on those sealants which require curing time and request that it stay completely dry for 12 hours or more, including from dew.
 
bcwang said:
I wonder if the "fog" from the breath can wreak havoc on those sealants which require curing time and request that it stay completely dry for 12 hours or more, including from dew.



Never caused any problems for me, sure doesn't have any detrimental effect on KSG, BF, UPP, or FK1000P
 
Accumulator said:
Not quite. With ehe 845 you don't pre-dampen the applicator, just prime it with the 845 (only). Don't get the applicator really *wet* with product, use just enough that it moves smoothly across the paint as opposed to grabbing; you can alway add more as soon as it's needed so try to keep the applicator as dry as possible while still gliding across the paint.



When you're finished I predict you'll be able to squeeze a lot of 845 out of your applicator ;) It's like a test.. whether you used an excessive amount.



Yeah, apply thin but it's not a *huge* deal with 845 (that's one of the things that makes it idiot-proof).



Let it dry until it passes the finger-swipe test (wipes off clean and dry with no smearing). Buff off gently with a soft MF.



I pretty much *always* fog the surface with my breath when buffing off LSPs (of any kind) but that's just me and I don't think it's all that necessary.



I'm confident it'll go well.



Thanks again Accumulator, finally got around to using the Collonite 845 today and all I can say is that stuff is great!

You also weren't kidding when you said to just use a little, that stuff goes and goes and just keeps spreading!

I think I practically did one whole side of my truck box with just a small quarter sized drop.

I am also sure it helped that I had used the Meg's on it just a few weeks ago?



After re-reading your post above, I realize I didn't wait long enough to let it dry, I guess I was a little impatient and somewhat afraid of leaving it too long.

It did come off fairly easy with a MF towel but in places I had to rub a little harder then go over it again when I stood back and had a look.

Is there any worries about leaving it on too long, I always wash/wax in the shade so it is not getting baked on.

Also, how soon would you wait before putting on another coat, or do you think it is even necessary? Thanks again, I will post up some pics when I get the rest of the truck finished. (ran out of time again) :2thumbs:
 
irv said:
I think I practically did one whole side of my truck box with just a small quarter sized drop..



I'd lean towards only putting enough on the applicator to do a panel or two and then adding more. It's a learning experience and you'll soon get the hang of it.



I am also sure it helped that I had used the Meg's on it just a few weeks ago?



Probably. Wax-onto-wax goes pretty smoothly.



After re-reading your post above, I realize I didn't wait long enough to let it dry...Is there any worries about leaving it on too long, I always wash/wax in the shade so it is not getting baked on...



As long as it doesn't get baked on, I wouldn't expect any problems. I'll apply to a whole (large) vehicle and then see if it's ready to buff off. And the thinner you apply it the sooner you can buff it off.



[quote[Also, how soon would you wait before putting on another coat, or do you think it is even necessary?[/QUOTE]



I'd reapply as soon as the beading or slickness changes (for the worse), though adding a second coat after the next wash sure wouldn't hurt anything.
 
bcwang said:
I'd consider doing a decontamination before claying and sealing your new car. Helps get out any embedded particles that could cause rust blooms from forming that even clay cannot remove.



"...decontamination before claying and sealing your new car."



Sorry to appear clueless, but please explain this process. Thanks!
 
rasmusmi said:
"...decontamination before claying and sealing your new car."



Sorry to appear clueless, but please explain this process. Thanks!



X2, I thought claying was decontaminating?
 
Accumulator said:
I'd lean towards only putting enough on the applicator to do a panel or two and then adding more. It's a learning experience and you'll soon get the hang of it.







Probably. Wax-onto-wax goes pretty smoothly.







As long as it doesn't get baked on, I wouldn't expect any problems. I'll apply to a whole (large) vehicle and then see if it's ready to buff off. And the thinner you apply it the sooner you can buff it off.



[quote[Also, how soon would you wait before putting on another coat, or do you think it is even necessary?



I'd reapply as soon as the beading or slickness changes (for the worse), though adding a second coat after the next wash sure wouldn't hurt anything.[/QUOTE]



Thanks Accumulator, I will try and use less and do less of an area in the future.

I don't know, maybe it was the light, the color of my truck, or my eyesight but it was very hard to see where I actually put it on sometimes? Is there any harm, reason for concern going over the missed spots after the 845 has begun to dry? What I did was sorta overlap into the partial dry spots in order to cover the spots I missed?
 
irv said:
..I don't know, maybe it was the light, the color of my truck, or my eyesight but it was very hard to see where I actually put it on sometimes? Is there any harm, reason for concern going over the missed spots after the 845 has begun to dry? What I did was sorta overlap into the partial dry spots in order to cover the spots I missed?



It *can* be hard (impossible with some products) to see where you do/don't have a thin application; it's not just you ;)



There's no problem going back over the missed spots (even if you're just guessing) and the overlap shouldn't cause problems. You'll just have a bit more residue to buff off where the overlap occurs.



This is one reason why some people always do two coats of *anything*. Even if the product doesn't truly layer for one reason or another, the second coat makes it more likely that you'll get complete coverage.
 
Accumulator said:
It *can* be hard (impossible with some products) to see where you do/don't have a thin application; it's not just you ;)



There's no problem going back over the missed spots (even if you're just guessing) and the overlap shouldn't cause problems. You'll just have a bit more residue to buff off where the overlap occurs.



This is one reason why some people always do two coats of *anything*. Even if the product doesn't truly layer for one reason or another, the second coat makes it more likely that you'll get complete coverage.



Thanks again Accumulator, that is good to know.

Now if it would quit raining long enough, I could finish the rest of truck and put another coat on, some summer this is shaping up to be!:grrr
 
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