VM comparables?

[cheapshot]

wow nice chevy looks sweet! i am excited about my new hobby, however winter in on it way. hope i get a few days to apply sealant and wax. we have been getting blasted with snow here in new jersey for a few years now.



next combo i'll probrably try is aio/upp

but this will be in spring, by then i'll probrably have to many products to choose from.

 

[Alex Creasey]

With VM being so thin I've also found that you can put a spray head on the bottle and use it as a spray/ quick wax.......

 

[Corey Bit Spank]

In a recent thread Corey Bit Spank said he put SG over VM and it failed in two weeks. SG doesn't do well over anything other than AIO or another layer of SG.

Yes, it's been topped with EX-P (which, in my experience, has slight cleaning) and then 2 weeks later (this past weekend) I toppedi t with #16.



I could tell the SG was a durable product, but it just didn't seem to last on top of VM. It beaded up well, but after a washing, it just...didn't do much beading. It looekd great, but then again it had just been polished out prior to the VM and SG, so I really dont' know.



I don't think putting anything oily between paint and SG is a good idea, especially with AIO isn't too expensive and can be used with various other products.



Now to the topic at hand: I haven't had the best luck with vanilla moose. Yes it does make the paint look good, yes it does make the paint feel good, but when I put it on and top it with anything I do not get the durability I recieve from putting on a product without a glaze. This isn't a problem when I don't have school to deal with, but now I don't have time to be reapplying wax everytime I wash just because I want my car to look 100%. I'd rather have it protected then look its best, summer it can look its best and have dainty products on it

 

[Corey Bit Spank]

Just a quick Question, If VM is too slick for SG to bond, what the difference with EX-P or EX for that matter(The Hawaiian Punch)??

Is there bonding issues here too?

EX-P has very LIGHT (like NXT) cleaning.



Actually, EX-P and NXT are pretty similar from what I can tell.

 

[mtodde]

EX-P has very LIGHT (like NXT) cleaning.



Actually, EX-P and NXT are pretty similar from what I can tell.

I found them to be totally different on my car, but differences in prep work and application between us probably have more to do with the end results than the products



NXT seemed to have more cleaning capability...that may be because I did not do much prep work before using it. With EX-P I had polished & used AIO.



My complaint with NXT was that I did not like the way it looked after a week. It looked great at first, but it whited out the metal flake. EX-P looked better each day.



I hope this isn't too off topic.

 

[Corey Bit Spank]

I found them to be totally different on my car, but differences in prep work and application between us probably have more to do with the end results than the products



NXT seemed to have more cleaning capability...that may be because I did not do much prep work before using it. With EX-P I had polished & used AIO.



My complaint with NXT was that I did not like the way it looked after a week. It looked great at first, but it whited out the metal flake. EX-P looked better each day.



I hope this isn't too off topic.

My reference wasn't meant to be taken as a direct comparison. I meant that both have mild cleaning ability

 

[mtodde]

My reference wasn't meant to be taken as a direct comparison. I meant that both have mild cleaning ability

Thanks for the clarification. I misinterpreted your post.

 

[Corey Bit Spank]

Thanks for the clarification. I misinterpreted your post.

It happens.



Back to the subject, I've used colorX and have had good results

 

[JasonD]

I see a lot of *EX-P* being mentioned, but what about *EX*? I recently bought both and haven't used either of them yet. I was under the impression that EX-P was preferred on light cars and EX was preferred on dark cars, but never hear anyone mentioning it.

 

[Scottwax]

I see a lot of *EX-P* being mentioned, but what about *EX*? I recently bought both and haven't used either of them yet. I was under the impression that EX-P was preferred on light cars and EX was preferred on dark cars, but never hear anyone mentioning it.

I have and like both. I prefer EX on dark non metallic paints and EX-P in lighter colors, especially silvers, pearls and metallics. I think on black, there is a noticable difference between the two. EX has a deep wet look and EX-P has clear, hard reflections.

 

[JasonD]

Okay, that's what I thought. So no problems with application or durability then?



I am getting ready to do a white van this weekend and plan on doing VM + EX-P for the first time to try it out. I will post back and let everyone know how it goes.

 

[Scottwax]

EX-P can be tricky the first time you use it because it is rather thick for an LSP. Takes a little practice to apply it thin. I do think the regular version of EX stays slicker longer.

 

[Sveta]

......when I put [VM] on and top it with anything I do not get the durability I recieve from putting on a product without a glaze.

This has come up other places lately and its starting to make me wonder about sealant durability in general.



I am wondering what you or anybody else believes is happening with VM that reduces durability in your LSP process?



If I'm understanding what your saying then VM and glazes in general shorten the durabilty of any LSP? If so, does that mean that a FP or maybe a SSR1, etc. prepared surface is best for any LSP's durability meaning sealants and waxes? Not to get to complicated about this, but would WG Polish add or detract from the durability of WG sealant? Same for VM amd CMW? Wouldn't Poorboy's PP be "better" with EX then Poorboy's Polish with Carnauba?



The way this is striking me is that sealants and waxes must have an absolutely clean surface for maximum bonding to occur. Is that right?

 

[Sveta]

EX-P can be tricky the first time you use it because it is rather thick for an LSP. Takes a little practice to apply it thin. I do think the regular version of EX stays slicker longer.

I've used a foam pads and a PVA pad to apply EX-P. The PVA pad was "wierd" but seemed to work OK and save product. What do you think works best for a hand application of EX-P?

 

[Scottwax]

I've used a foam pads and a PVA pad to apply EX-P. The PVA pad was "wierd" but seemed to work OK and save product. What do you think works best for a hand application of EX-P?

I just use a Meguiars foam hand pad.

 

[Corey Bit Spank]

This has come up other places lately and its starting to make me wonder about sealant durability in general.



I am wondering what you or anybody else believes is happening with VM that reduces durability in your LSP process?



If I'm understanding what your saying then VM and glazes in general shorten the durabilty of any LSP? If so, does that mean that a FP or maybe a SSR1, etc. prepared surface is best for any LSP's durability meaning sealants and waxes? Not to get to complicated about this, but would WG Polish add or detract from the durability of WG sealant? Same for VM amd CMW? Wouldn't Poorboy's PP be "better" with EX then Poorboy's Polish with Carnauba?



The way this is striking me is that sealants and waxes must have an absolutely clean surface for maximum bonding to occur. Is that right?

This is not a sealant only issue.



I'm no chemist or physicist so I cannot go into depth about this: I only report on the facts of what happens in my situations.



I'd suppose it has something to do with the oil content of the thing you are putting between the paint and the protectant. I'm really not certain.



As for the oily-wolfgang polish affecting durability? Probably. It's reason to suspect why some people have not gotten good durability out of wolfgang, when similar products with less oily pre-polishes or cleaners seem to hold up better.