using the rotary buffer outside--total swirl removal ?

Believe me, I do practice a lot...I've been practicing since last summer, and now Im on vacation, spent last week, and will spend this one buffing as well......I want to get where many of you are and I will, it's just a matter of time for me to get there, and practice too.

Cheers
 
For beginners I'll say it again ..... get some 40 grit sandpaper, a piece of faced (oak, poplar, maple, etc) plywood and using your rotary with the flexy back and the nut, try to sand with the grain not against it... this is the best way I can describe the pad placement and propper usage area. I'll also post a pic for those that are more analytical and like to see diagrams... Not everyone can Buff cars-- exactly Kim, it takes lots of practice and experience. It's like playin the Guitar, some of us no matter how hard we try -- will never be Jimmy Hendrix.
 
dr_detail,

gee I like that diagram a lot, that helps me much. Where did you get that from ? I'd like the URL.

It makes it clear that one should use the highlighted part of the pad, and THAT I didn't know at all. I used the whole pad. Maybe that is why I've been unsuccessful.

Thanks heaps !!
 
Oh,

anyways, I do like it a lot :). I just wonder why it was not pointed to me earlier........everyone keep saying to keep the pad flat--that's all one hear.

Are there any other interesting diagrams like that one in your manual ?:)
 
very interesting dr detail as someone who has also done a considerable amount of rotary use in the past, but never really had to explain to someone else this without them actually watching me as an example it is very good :bigups... I purposely stayed out of this thread due to Chips comment about everyone always having the pad flat as I have always usd a slight tilt , but what was hitting the surface was always flat...as stated before practice and differnet situations encounted over many years of use will either make it or break it...some people no matter how much practice will never achieve the results as others...Michael Jordan is a great example of a basketball player who just had a gift beyond others as did Mozart and many who have set standards maybe never to be equalled...:dunno 2cents
 
Poorboy,

I've heard everyone say that the pad should be flat as much as can be, but I agree with you (and have thought the same) that the portion/section of the pad that hits that paint, even though slightly tilted can still be flat........could it be part of the successful swirl free recipe ?

I'm still learning to master the rotary, and being extremely careful and meticulous, I know without a doubt I'll soon get the hang of it. I just need to tweak some minor issues concerning my technique :)

Maybe what others meant by saying : keep the pad flat, was that the portion of it hitting the paint *should* be flat, but they perhaps didn't mean to keep the *whole* surface of the pad in contact with the finish ?

Cheers
 
dr_detail said:
Yes all swirls can be removed with a rotary. It's technique and experience that does it. I sometimes despise those who say that "it's not all that hard."
Click to expand...

You may despise me for this Dr. Detail, but it's not all that hard. Using a rotary, no. Being great with a rotary, that's hard. I only say this because even for the novice, the results a rotary can produce, make it worth while to learn sooner rather than later.

I've been using a rotary for about 12 years. 5 years as a detailer at a body shop, just over a year with my business, and the years inbetween on my own cars. I'm very proficiant but I'm always improving.

Now with the advent of foam pads, even a beginner can get started without alot of fear.
 
Chip how true...but I don't like stepping on toes:)

Denver you are right too..no one should be afraid of wet/dry sanding or using the rotary...maybe everyone will not get Anthony Orosco results but as you said the foam pads do give you a lot more room for error compared to the wool pads I learned with...practice and a feel for the tool will get you places a pc can never go..
 
Poorboy,

likewise, I don't like stepping on toes, I'm coming here in peace :) I'm 32, life is very short, so If I can make couple of nice friends out here, and learn how to be quite proficient with the rotary, then I'm going to be content, and be in peace within lol.


Take care
 
dr_detail,

so If I get it right, whatever the direction the buffer travels, the same section of the pad must be the one to hit the paint. Sorry If I appear a bit slow on the intake, but it's just that I want to get as close to it as it is, in terms of understanding how-to.

I already use the buffer, and realize it's not as easy as it sounds to get a perfect finish.

Cheers & thanks
 
Believe me I'm not knocking any newcomer to the wonderful world of the rotary (until I found this place it was always just a buffer).... on the contrair I encourage it. (I make more money fixin the #@$%-ups heheehe). Believe me, I too had to learn somewhere -- and if you could've seen the damage I did to a mahogany kris-craft hull when I was learnin how to use the sander long before I ever even heard about detailin you're chin woulda dropped. Years later, lots of practice, many a burned edges, blown apart foam pads, tweaked fingers, ruined rubbers, three or four oops's and lots of passing on to others the wisdom of the trade... I can make black look like glass. However, I also confess that when it comes to doin' an interior -- I can do em -- but George Gershwin I'm not.
 
chip douglas said:
so If I get it right, whatever the direction the buffer travels, the same section of the pad must be the one to hit the paint. Sorry If I appear a bit slow on the intake, but it's just that I want to get as close to it as it is, in terms of understanding how-to...
Click to expand...
See diagram #2 (below) this would be a desired position when working the sides of a vehicle.
 
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