Using M105 for the first time today

Setec Astronomy said:
I think if detailing products came in clear bottles, we'd all shake them more. I've noticed that Clearkote VM (Or was it my Pb's Pro Polish?) takes quite a bit more shaking to get the white stuff from the bottom mixed in than you would think, and I'm quite sure I would have stopped if I couldn't see through the clear bottle that I wasn't "done". And that's a product which is fairly thin, I can't even imagine a bottle of thicker polish that has sat for a long time...although you could argue that a thicker polish won't settle out as fast. Anyway, gallons are that much harder to shake because of the weight.
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Amen brother!! The clear bottle should be the norm, but then they would have to add red#40 to everything to make it look good as well as smelling good.
 
Scottwax said:
I find that 105 (not mixed with OC) works best if you keep the rpms at 1000.
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Have you tried it @ ~1300-1400 rpm putting it directly into the paint and working small sections?

For me this method worked amazing. If I tried bigger sections, the compound dried very fast. With small sections you can "work" the compound wet.
 
I keep reading with interest all these tips on 105. Maybe I'm just awkward (yeah I know) but I have had enough issues with rotary buffing -and when I finally felt good about it and got my game on - here comes 105 and changes all I knew about technique. I remember reading Todd's post and he stated "forget what you currently do now for compounding" truer words have never been spoken! I think I'm either too old or stupid to catch on to this. I'm sure I'm in the minority cause most of ya'll don't give in to frustrations as easy as I do, but for me if it ain't kinda easy - user friendly, then I don't want it. So I take another pass or two with #84 - I'd spend more time cleaning up the mess I made with 105! Enough whinning - sorry!
 
SuperBee364 said:
My sample of M105 came from Greg's quart bottle. So I'm hoping Greg had it well-shaken when he dispensed my sample. :)



Maybe I should just break down and buy a quart.
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I did. ADS had the best price, but then again I was buying some other stuff too. :bestwish
 
SuperBee364 said:
Edit: Just got done having my butt kicked by M105 for the first time. There's no doubt about it: of the Big Guns, this is the Biggest. I was getting exactly *one* pass out of it before it was flashing over. Yet in this one pass, it was doing an incredible amount of correction. I stayed with it for half the hood, but I just couldn't get any more than one pass out of it. And wow, does it clog up wool pads *fast*. Even spurring after every application wasn't enough to keep the pad from gumming up.
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It sounds like a pad cleaner such as the System 2000 would be a very helpful tool for a detailer who uses this products with any regularity.
 
bwalker25 said:
is there a huge difference between m95 and m105?
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I haven't ever used M95, but I can tell you that M105 is in a class by itself as far as cut is concerned. MPG, HTEC, OC, they are whimps compared to M105. M105 is the most serious compound I've ever used.
 
bwalker25 said:
is there a huge difference between m95 and m105?
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I have both, but have yet to try #95. I started using #105 first and never looked back. However #95 has the same cut with a longer working time according to the marketing material.
 
Dave1 ,Howareb, Scottwax, thanks for the pointers.



This morning I had another go with the M105. I did a few passes with white LC foam to start. I shook the bottle for two minutes non stop. Primed the pad first, then did a small area. Much better results. Yesterday when the polish would flash over, it would then be very hard to remove. So far, it hasn't turned into glue like it did yesterday. I worked it for about ten to fifteen seconds. For some reason, it's not finishing down as well as I thought it was yesterday. I'm getting some pretty nasty compounding swirls, but that could also be due to the fact that this CC is pretty soft. I also took Scottwax's recommendation and kept the head speed at 1k rpm. I'm very pleased with the result using the white lc foam. The only problem I'm still having is I can't seem to get the quantity of polish correct. Applying what I think is the right amount, and I get sling everywhere. I back off a bit, and it flashes over too fast. So far, it appears that using too much is better than not using enough.



One big advantage to using foam with this stuff is that you can use a pad brush and get alot more done with one pad than what I could with wool. Maybe priming a wool pad with QD first will help solve the gumming problem, but as I mentioned yesterday, it was gumming wool up so fast it would have taken 20 pads to do the car. Spurring didn't help a bit.



Observations so far with foam:



After you get done shaking the bottle, shake it again for at least two minutes. Then repeat.



Priming the pad first, and keeping it moist is a must



It's better to underwork it than overwork it



keep the pad brushed



1k rpm works very well



work very small areas (12x12 seems about right)



Next up will be the purple foamed wool...
 
supe and howareb thanks for the comments, I have yet to use m105 but I really like m95 so maybe I'll have to break down and get some m105 from ads....anyone tried m105/m95 as a combo? I mean if m95 has a longer working time perhaps we could add a little m95 to m105 and not have to sacrafice cutting power?
 
SuperBee364 said:
Dave1 ,Howareb, Scottwax, thanks for the pointers.



Observations so far with foam:



Priming the pad first, and keeping it moist is a must

It's better to underwork it than overwork it

keep the pad brushed

1k rpm works very well

work very small areas (12x12 seems about right)



Next up will be the purple foamed wool...
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I think I use a little more than I should also. The stuff works better for me if everything is wet. I keep the pad spritzed (FK-425) and just don't worry about the mess until later.....:D



Looking forward to your take with purple wool.....
 
OK, just got done using the PFW and the M105. Once again, thanks to everyone here on Autopia, you guys turned a very frustrating experience into a new, very powerful detailing tool. Using all the advice from you guys together gave me some pretty unbelieveable results.



Process:



Once again I shook the bottle for about five minutes (thanks, Howareb)



Kept the PFW moistened with FK1 425 (thanks Dave1 and Howareb)



Used four pea size dots (thanks, TH0001)



1k pad speed (thanks, Scottwax)



Small area (thanks, Maesal (sp?))



Ten second working time (thanks to everyone that suggested the short working time)



The only contribution I made was a change in application technique. I usually spread the polish out over the surface (without turning on the buffer) until it is completely even in the area I'm going to polish. I then turn on the buffer and further even it out at a slow head speed. With the M105, I found that it worked better to *not* spread it at all. Put the pad on the paint, get to 1k rpm, then spread it as you work. Pre-spreading it resulted in the polish already being dry by the time i got to working it.



For some reason, I was getting a much finer finish this time. When Howareb said they were getting an almost LSP ready finish with M105, I knew I must be doing something wrong, as I was getting *bad* comounding swirls with the white LC foam.



The only things I did different with the PFW were using more 425 on the pad, and using less M105. Apparently, that really did the trick. After seeing how fine of a finish I got (there will be pics of this. It is, as Howareb suggested, darn near LSP ready. From the heaviest compound out there. Oy) I decided to pull out another white LC foam pad.



I got exactly the same results as with the PFW; it finished down so darn well you'd be hard pressed to tell from a picture that it wasn't finished down with PO85RD. *NO* compounding swirls, marks, nothing. The only change I made was more 425 on the pad, and less M105.



I was able to get three passes out of the white foam, and only two out of the PFW. Other than that, they both seemed to cut as well and finish off as well. Either pad makes a fine choice for M105.



Keeping the PFW moist with the 425 also kept it from getting gummed up. I have a couple pictures of how the pad looked after doing the trunk, and a picture of how much polish I was using. You can get just about the same amount of car done with M105 and a PFW as you can with SIP. So probably two to three pads per car. Not bad at all.



I haven't been this giddy about a product since I started using SIP and PFW a year ago. This stuff is a-mazing. It is definitely worth the learning curve, and as long as you listen to the guys that know how to use it, it is truly unreal what it is capable of doing. Imagine being able to take out 1200 grit wetsanding marks and have it finish down so well that your next step can safely be finishing foam (or wool :) ) and PO85RD. Forget about worrying if that final polish won't get out compounding marks; there aren't any.



This is the first Meguair's product I've been excited about in years. It seems like no matter how many different polishes I've used, I end up going back to Menzerna. Not this time, man. This is an outstanding product. It is going to save soooo many hours compounding. I hope the next few cars I get in will be hammered enough to justify using M105. Meguiars has successfully made heavy correction a two-step polishing process.



I'll post the pictures here shortly...
 
SuperBee,



I'm glad you are getting the feel for this stuff. I wish I could have been working with you on this I think half the battle is seeing someone else use it.



I used 105 on a Corvette and believe I saved about 2 hrs over using Presta UCC.
 
Mindflux said:
why does AG have your wool pads?

:LOLOL
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They didn't think about sending pads that were compatible with the Edge 3k Industrial Adapter when I made the order. I figured they'd take care of it for me but apparently not. I sent them (Pinnaclewax.com) an email on April 23rd about my issue and they directed me to calling them directly. I did that and they sent me a UPS return label the following day. I had them shipped out on that Friday, April 25th, and they didn't receive them until May 2nd.



Since then, I haven't received a phone call, email, or any other form of response as to what's going on with my order. I specified to them that I needed Edge wool pads that were adaptable to the Edge 3k Industrial Adapter, specifically those pads that were made by Edge after January 1st, 2007, as noted on their website.



I'm still waiting patiently for a call or email from them. It has almost been two weeks since they received the pads and almost 3 weeks being aware of the issue. :eek:
 
I can not fathom that they'd still have pads that are over a year old still.



I don't have the 3k adapter, just the 2k.. the wool pads are a tight fit for it. Sometimes too tight. Brian(gmblack3a) warned me of this (which is part of the Jan 1 redesign).
 
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