Ultimate HD Cleanse threadThere

C

CorruptedSanity

New member
Tons of info on HD Cleanse, how about we make this one the ultimate thread because I think i've read through at least 30 threads with sometimes tid bits of info and so on.



Its pretty warm here, we're talking about 85 F with clear skies. Im guessing im going to need to work early in the morning when its not too warm and in the shade.



Any other info on HD Cleanse?

Ive got a Cayman S in Guards Red.



There are some cob webs (same as swirl marks?), its a little but oxidized but not too bad. The car is not 1 yr and 1 month old.
 
HD-Cleanse is very similar to most of the other filling (kaolin clay) based glazes. It is oil based, has very mild cleaning abilities, hides small defects and swirl marks, and helps waxed base LSP's adhere correctly (how much truth there is in that last one is open for speculation). It can also be *very* hard to use. Particularly, hard to remove. It works best (for defect hiding) when it's allowed to "remain for 20 seconds" according to the directions. Waiting that long is going to make the removal very difficult, but you will get good defect hiding if you do wait. When I use it, I immediately wipe off the residue after I've completed applying it to a panel, since I don't use it for defect hiding.



It works great on just about any exterior car surface. It will remove white "wax" marks from black plastic, and help to restore worn, dirty, or dry rubber seals. It also works great on glass.



The filling properties of HD-Cleanse will disappear after only one wash unless you top it with a wax based LSP's. Don't waste your time using sealants over HD-Cleanse, as the oils in it will prevent the sealant from bonding correctly.



It's definitely a you're gonna love it or hate it product. The more I use and get comfortable with it, the more I like it. But again, I don't wait for the recommended time to remove it, either.



So I guess to summarize: It's a decent glaze that is hard to use and costs too much for what it does.
 
I need 3 items to use it right.



1- A foam applicator

2- A towel to buff (or MF)

3- A cotton or MF towel to clear away the mess



I'm also better off working in the shade during the cooler hours of the day too right.
 
Three pea sized amounts on the applicator ,I tend to do a panel at a time (other than the hood/bonnet)the only problem is it dries really fast.



Spread it on in stright lines.
 
So Im going to have to rub/apply it on the car for less than 20 seconds otherwise its gonna dry up? (according to you guys' experience of course) ?



So use the applicator to apply it for 20 seconds then immediately wipe off the residue?
 
I would follow the directions on the bottle exactly, with one exception: Don't wait the 20 seconds before you wipe it off. It will be too hard to remove if you wait.
 
The instructions simply say appply it on a 2 or 3 foot section using moderate to heavy pressure in straight lines till sticky then gently buff with a towel.





So im guessing apply for x amount of seconds then buff directly.



Whats X in the equation?
 
As long as it takes you to apply it to the panel you're working on... In other words, if I'm applying HD-Cleanse to a door, as soon as I'm done applying it to the door, I immediately start the removal process.
 
+1 to SB's comments. I prefer a MF applicator, however, I rub it in thoroughly and buff it off immediately. As already noted, if you put on too much or let it dry too long.........well, don't ask how I know. :cry:



To really get a feel for the product and how much to use, I suggest you take a very small amount and use it on an area like that "rounded" part just above the door handle--the length of one door--and just rub it in back and forth until it's barely there, then buff it off.



Don't apply it to your entire hood and wait to buff it off



HTH
 
Ok, I tried it on my wife's very oxidized black BMW. I did it in the shade, the car wasnt cool but neither was it warm. I rubbed it in medium to hard in vertical then diagonal lines. I immediately buffed it off and it came off. There was significant difference. BUt as noted several times before, it is if anything a mild abrasive product, it could not tackle anything more than light in terms of scratches/swirls. I like it though, I cant wait to use it on my lightly swirl-marked Porsche.
 
HD-Cleanse is a filler, not a true polish. What that means is that it uses fillers to hide swirls and paint imperfections, not correct them. To get rid of swirls, oxidation, and imperfections permanently, you would need to have a buffer and abrasive polish.
 
Ahhh I see, its surprising that Zymol does not sell a brand of pure polish.





I observed that it quickly clouded/creamed. This was after 1 or 2 buffs. On some parts of the car the residue immediately came off and some parts made me wish I was Popeye.
 
Safi said:
Hi!

Can I use the HD Cleanse with the porter cable and a soft finishing pad?
Click to expand...



Welcome to Autopia!



While you'd be better off listening to somebody who's actually used the stuff (which I have *not*), I'm pretty confident that the need for prompt buff-off would make this one product that will *not* work well via PC.



A somewhat similar (but user-friendly IME) product that works well via PC is Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion ("PCL").
 
Back in the day, I was a big user and fan of the *original* HD-Cleanse. In fact, in the late 90's I sold a ton of the stuff, because it actually worked. When the company ownership (majority) moved to Turtle Wax, the formula changed and it was not the same. I used the new formula a couple times and it just wasn't doing it for me.
 
I've had some experience with it too. It seemed hit or miss. When it was good, it was good! If you didn't remove it quick enough, LOOK OUT! PIA!



FWIW, there are comparable products that are more forgiving and do a similar job. Doesn't Pinnacle have a very similar product?
 
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