First, there is obviously a lot of confusion of what I originally said. Let me clarify.
The heat and friction from a high speed buffer does two things. I will deal with the flattening out of the polymers that was referred to by the King.
Amino Functional polymers are not easy to formulate with. Any good ones that are higher molecular weight and detergent resistant do not like to layout onto an even surface. Think of applying the sealant as if you are applying paint. You want to put an even, consistent layer onto the surface of the vehicle. Amino functionals do not spread out easily like regular silicone fluid.
The theory is that the polish will be applied to the surface and spread onto the surface. The solvent and water will evaporate leaving a smooth, continuous, even surface on the vehicle.
This isn't always the case. Environmental pollution, scratches, etching, sap, weather conditions, will make the film not be even and continuous.
That is why some detailers "spit shine" the vehicle. Or you will get application marks. (What I mean by application marks is when you wipe off the powder, you can still see the circular or straight lines of how you put the polish on. It isn't really a streak that will come off with light rubbing. It takes more than light rubbing. ) You can also see marbeling. Light and dark effects on the paint as you look at it through the light. This normally happen on the horizontal surfaces since they get the brunt of the environmental contamination.
These are all because the polymers are not making an even, consistent film.
We all know that the way to make something shiney is to make it smooth and then put a coating on it. Think of sanding a piece of wood, then putting varnish on it. If the varnish isn't put on evenly, it won't be as shiney or look good - right?
So, using a porter cable or other orbital increases the friction on the polymers which forces them to create an even and consistent film on the vehicle. It is more true with a high speed polisher. More heat and friction create an even better film. That is if the user knows how to properly use the buffer and doesn't create swirls etc.
Secondly, the heat and friction of the buffer cause the moisture to leave the polymer faster. It breaks down the emulsion, makes a continuous even coating on the vehicle, and in doing so facilitates the curing of the polymer.
I am not saying that the polymer has to be heated to 300 degrees for several hours. I am saying that the heat and friction facilitate the even coating, which facilitates the even evaporation of the moisture trapped in the polymer which facilitates the cross linking.
If you live in England, like the King, the humidity is so high and the temperature so cold, it could take longer than 48 hours for the polymer to cure. If you live in Palm Springs it would take less. That's just common sense - right? So, the buffer creates an artificial environment more like Palm Springs.
As for literature, I don't have any. The only thing I can write is that I was told this by an applications engineer from Dow Corning. He is a polymer chemist and told me what I am trying to explain to you now.
If you guys want to read different literature about amino functional polymers on your own, you can go to Dow Corning and look up DC531 and DC536 on their website. It will explain how one is better for detergent resistence, the other is better for rub-out and shine. It also has a graph on curing time.
FINALLY, AND MOST IMPORTANTLY, WHY DO YOU NEED TO GO OVER THE SEALANT WITH ANYTHING ELSE. IT SHOULD BE YOUR FINAL STEP!!!
As I said before - Don't argue with the king - he seems to know what he is talking about. I don't know who he is, but if I l lived in England, I might let him detail my cars!!!
. Anyone have any contacts with Poorboys, Zaino, and/or Klasse?
:xyxthumbs
