Accumulator
Well-known member
Heh heh, yeah...for those on both sides of the ?coating? fence.
Ah, my Audi guys are at Audi Mentor!
Think I`m done messing around with coatings, final thoughts...
- Thread starter BudgetPlan1
- Start date
Heh heh, yeah...for those on both sides of the ?coating? fence.
Ah, my Audi guys are at Audi Mentor!
booyah
New member
So for a brand new truck 2018 (Fords platinum white Tri-color) as soon as I take it off the lot and home what is the minimum things to do to get it ready for the Kamikaze treatment? Im thinking I will go with the Miyabi coat with Overcoat on top--is there a great reason to include the ISM or will those 2 get the job done. So below Im thinking these are the steps, what do you think? Thanks
Wash and clay
Remove any major scratches I see
Prep with GYEON Q2M PREP
GYEON Q2M Iron Remover **Decontamination is it necessary?
Then apply the Kamikaze products.
Wash and clay
Remove any major scratches I see
Prep with GYEON Q2M PREP
GYEON Q2M Iron Remover **Decontamination is it necessary?
Then apply the Kamikaze products.
The Guz
Mike
Topping Miyabli is optional with ISM. I have not used them but based on what I have read and seen using both gives a different look than using them as a stand alone.
But to answer your question you are good to go with Miyabi and Overcoat.
Here is what I would recommend based on what you have
Gyeon Iron
Wash
Mechanical Decon aka Clay
Light Polish as claying will leave some sort of marring
Gyeon Prep
Miyabi
Overcoat
I would recommend to use an iron remover as new cars can be contaminated. You may or may not need to clay. But if you clay there will be marring. Also if the dealer put anything on the paint you want to remove that and a light polish will definitely do that.
I am sure you did not want to hear that lol but that is what I would recommend even if it takes a bit more time.
Check out Matt`s latest series on prepping his brand new Raptor and coating it with Kamikazi.
[video]https://www.youtube.com/user/MattMoreman/videos?disable_polymer=1[/video]
booyah
New member
I can do all that easy lol, just never put a serious coatings like these on before. I will do the Iron removal for sure as it will be interseting what comes off. Thanks for the link!
BudgetPlan1
Active member
What Guz says above regarding pre application stuff.
Miyabi gives a harder, sharper gloss; adding ISM gives it deeper, warmer glow in addition to a bit more protection.
Miyabi + Overcoat is a solid combo. I think you`ll really enjoy Overcoat especially if you get rained on occasionally...fun to watch.
I always use Overcoat as drying aid as I`ve got some fundamental inability to apply any product without streaking. Drying aid use is my crutch for alleviating that.
https://youtu.be/GbfopTju_es
BudgetPlan1
Active member
I usually wash, iron, wash/clay w Nanoskin, polish, prep, coat.
booyah
New member
Great thanks! Yep i get plenty of rain and snow living in Alaska!! So 50/50 on using the ISM then? Hard choice to make lol
BudgetPlan1
Active member
How far down the rabbit hole ya wanna go? Can only help to add ISM as far as durability goes. It`s a bit trickier to use, thicker consistency (kinda like honey almost) and the application window is shorter but not all that difficult. Will darken the paint a bit so be aware of that depending on paint color.
Just depends on what all you want/How much you want to put into it.
BudgetPlan1
Active member
CQuartz Update; finally decon’d and washed it
Cquartz ‘Classic’ or ‘110’ as I think it’s called now; applied in January 2017.
Around 19k miles since application on this 2016 Ford Transit Extended van. As far as I know has never been washed since application and probably sat outside 24/7 since then. Well, when it wasn’t at the dealer having recall work done anyway; throttle body, driveshaft bearings and latest was the instrument cluster that blew out and took the entire vehicle wiring harness with it. Apparently Ford didn’t quite get the firewall sealed all the way and water got into the towing module, shorted out the Instrument cluster and the rest of the vehicles main wiring harness.
Was in pretty good shape last January so I believe it got the standard wash/clay/polish/prep/seal routine done to it. No Iron decontamination done, though, if that matters anyway. Hey, it was January in Cleveland and if I woulda done that inside the warehouse the stench would have made me pretty unpopular around here.
It was the first coating I did outside of the Kamikaze/Wolfgang/McKees realm for personal vehicles…little did I know at the time what I was getting myself into; every addiction starts somewhere, no? I don’t remember it being very difficult to apply, but do remember thinking afterward that the freshly coated surface was not very slick so I topped with Gyeon Cure which fixed that situation. Wasn’t into buying complimentary products at that time so no Reload, which I still haven’t used to this day. I started with a 50ml bottle and think I ended up using 40ml or so for 2 coats. To illustrate my attention to detail (or lack thereof), I thought I had ordered (and applied) CQuartz UK until I closely looked at the bottle afterwards and saw it was 110/Classic. Oops.
Anyway, prior to wash last week the surface felt contaminated via baggie test, not crazy contaminated but definitely needed a little something. Hosed the whole truck down after a quick wash with Sonax Fallout Remover, agitated, let dwell and hosed off. Then bucket washed, and probably about 70-75% of the contamination felt in baggie test was gone. Since I’m not doing any polishing to these ‘refreshes’ it is what it is and I prepped and put on 2 coats of Gyeon CanCoat (which I seem to be using like a Quick Detailer these days) and then topped with Kamikaze Overcoat. I think I missed noting it regarding the Gtechniq CSL ‘refresh’ summary last week but I topped that one with IGL Premier after 2 coats of CanCoat so I wanted to use something different on this one to see how the boosters compare.
As an aside, I’m kinda getting frustrated with Iron decontamination as I never really see it bleeding like I do in some peoples pictures. Sonax, Optimum, Gyeon…have tried a variety of Iron decontamination products and am missing the glorious bleeding others experience. This is Cleveland for God’s sake, where our river was so polluted it burned back in the 1970’s; there simply *has* to be airborne contamination all over this area and yet only 1 or 2 vehicles have ever showed any of the bleeding that makes putting up with an iron removers stench justifiable. Color me disappointed.
Overall, I’m kind of quietly impressed with CQuartz. I really didn’t see the vehicle that often this summer as the Technician assigned to it starts and finishes his day from home during the season. It didn’t do anything particularly stellar to stand out from some of the others but at the end of the day, given the lack of maintenance, it held up well and cleaned up quite easily. Even before topping with CanCoat and Overcoat, the paint was quite glossy and felt relatively smooth after a decon and wash. It stayed pretty clean and looked relatively good every time I did happen to see it last summer so despite its lack of slickness on its own, the self-cleaning is pretty good. Beading was still slightly visible before I started this refresh and after decon, was a bit better. Looking around the door handles where light scratches usually appear showed more of this light marring than the CSL and Gyeon Mohs did but since I haven’t checked the respective drivers’ hands for rings or other jewelry (which could probably cause a, uh..’Incident’ back in the warehouse should I start grabbing people’s hands ) I can’t say for sure if it truly offered more resistance to this kinda thing than the other products. I do get somewhat of a totally subjective and unsubstantiated feeling that it is less resistant to light scratches than the Mohs or CSL.
The feeling of the surface after decon/wash fell in between the CSL and Mohs with Mohs feeling completely naked (yet still remaining very clean) and the CSL retaining a good bit of that coating ‘feel’ to it after decon/wash.
Given its relatively low cost in relation to some of the others I used and its overall performance, I can see why it is so popular; it’s a solid performer that looks good and stays pretty clean. The addition of the recently released CarPro Gliss would likely elevate Cquartz closer to my favorite’s performance. I would be interested to see Gyeon Mohs + Booster, CSL + EXO and CQuartz + Gliss compared sometime. While I likely won’t use it again, CQuartz is definitely a good, all-around choice. Catch a 25% off sale and you’re nearing $45 for a 30ml bottle, enough to do 2 coats on a standard sedan perhaps. Pretty good deal, methinks.
Next refresh is on the 2016 Ford Transit with 22ple HPC though might take a while to get around to that one. Getting some of 22ple’s ‘Ultra Soft Glass Coat Clay’ to use on that (will probably skip chemical decontamination unless I can catch a 45-50 degree day) so we’ll see how that goes. Might skip the CanCoat on that one and just top with 22ple Finitura (which still I’m on the fence regarding liking it or not) as this van/coating combo has been a consistent and stellar performer since application in March of 2017 (about 17k miles or so ago).
EDIT: In the interest of science (and no small portion of general laziness) I`m not using the CanCoat/Booster on the roofs of these vans so we`ll see how the coating alone fares as time moves on. Additionally, since this vehicle has a lot of black/plastic trim I decided to see how CanCoat protects that going forward as well. I was gonna use Gyeon Trim on one side and (new for me) Gtechniq C4 TRim Restorer but laziness took over and I just covered it all with CanCoat; CanCoat sure goes a long way, too. Still have about 10% left in my first can and have done 2 coats on a Ford Ranger, an E-250 Van, this 2016 Ford Transit van and a couple of misc hoods here and there.
Pics after wash/chemical decon/CanCoat/Overcoat application:
Cquartz ‘Classic’ or ‘110’ as I think it’s called now; applied in January 2017.
Around 19k miles since application on this 2016 Ford Transit Extended van. As far as I know has never been washed since application and probably sat outside 24/7 since then. Well, when it wasn’t at the dealer having recall work done anyway; throttle body, driveshaft bearings and latest was the instrument cluster that blew out and took the entire vehicle wiring harness with it. Apparently Ford didn’t quite get the firewall sealed all the way and water got into the towing module, shorted out the Instrument cluster and the rest of the vehicles main wiring harness.
Was in pretty good shape last January so I believe it got the standard wash/clay/polish/prep/seal routine done to it. No Iron decontamination done, though, if that matters anyway. Hey, it was January in Cleveland and if I woulda done that inside the warehouse the stench would have made me pretty unpopular around here.
It was the first coating I did outside of the Kamikaze/Wolfgang/McKees realm for personal vehicles…little did I know at the time what I was getting myself into; every addiction starts somewhere, no? I don’t remember it being very difficult to apply, but do remember thinking afterward that the freshly coated surface was not very slick so I topped with Gyeon Cure which fixed that situation. Wasn’t into buying complimentary products at that time so no Reload, which I still haven’t used to this day. I started with a 50ml bottle and think I ended up using 40ml or so for 2 coats. To illustrate my attention to detail (or lack thereof), I thought I had ordered (and applied) CQuartz UK until I closely looked at the bottle afterwards and saw it was 110/Classic. Oops.
Anyway, prior to wash last week the surface felt contaminated via baggie test, not crazy contaminated but definitely needed a little something. Hosed the whole truck down after a quick wash with Sonax Fallout Remover, agitated, let dwell and hosed off. Then bucket washed, and probably about 70-75% of the contamination felt in baggie test was gone. Since I’m not doing any polishing to these ‘refreshes’ it is what it is and I prepped and put on 2 coats of Gyeon CanCoat (which I seem to be using like a Quick Detailer these days) and then topped with Kamikaze Overcoat. I think I missed noting it regarding the Gtechniq CSL ‘refresh’ summary last week but I topped that one with IGL Premier after 2 coats of CanCoat so I wanted to use something different on this one to see how the boosters compare.
As an aside, I’m kinda getting frustrated with Iron decontamination as I never really see it bleeding like I do in some peoples pictures. Sonax, Optimum, Gyeon…have tried a variety of Iron decontamination products and am missing the glorious bleeding others experience. This is Cleveland for God’s sake, where our river was so polluted it burned back in the 1970’s; there simply *has* to be airborne contamination all over this area and yet only 1 or 2 vehicles have ever showed any of the bleeding that makes putting up with an iron removers stench justifiable. Color me disappointed.
Overall, I’m kind of quietly impressed with CQuartz. I really didn’t see the vehicle that often this summer as the Technician assigned to it starts and finishes his day from home during the season. It didn’t do anything particularly stellar to stand out from some of the others but at the end of the day, given the lack of maintenance, it held up well and cleaned up quite easily. Even before topping with CanCoat and Overcoat, the paint was quite glossy and felt relatively smooth after a decon and wash. It stayed pretty clean and looked relatively good every time I did happen to see it last summer so despite its lack of slickness on its own, the self-cleaning is pretty good. Beading was still slightly visible before I started this refresh and after decon, was a bit better. Looking around the door handles where light scratches usually appear showed more of this light marring than the CSL and Gyeon Mohs did but since I haven’t checked the respective drivers’ hands for rings or other jewelry (which could probably cause a, uh..’Incident’ back in the warehouse should I start grabbing people’s hands ) I can’t say for sure if it truly offered more resistance to this kinda thing than the other products. I do get somewhat of a totally subjective and unsubstantiated feeling that it is less resistant to light scratches than the Mohs or CSL.
The feeling of the surface after decon/wash fell in between the CSL and Mohs with Mohs feeling completely naked (yet still remaining very clean) and the CSL retaining a good bit of that coating ‘feel’ to it after decon/wash.
Given its relatively low cost in relation to some of the others I used and its overall performance, I can see why it is so popular; it’s a solid performer that looks good and stays pretty clean. The addition of the recently released CarPro Gliss would likely elevate Cquartz closer to my favorite’s performance. I would be interested to see Gyeon Mohs + Booster, CSL + EXO and CQuartz + Gliss compared sometime. While I likely won’t use it again, CQuartz is definitely a good, all-around choice. Catch a 25% off sale and you’re nearing $45 for a 30ml bottle, enough to do 2 coats on a standard sedan perhaps. Pretty good deal, methinks.
Next refresh is on the 2016 Ford Transit with 22ple HPC though might take a while to get around to that one. Getting some of 22ple’s ‘Ultra Soft Glass Coat Clay’ to use on that (will probably skip chemical decontamination unless I can catch a 45-50 degree day) so we’ll see how that goes. Might skip the CanCoat on that one and just top with 22ple Finitura (which still I’m on the fence regarding liking it or not) as this van/coating combo has been a consistent and stellar performer since application in March of 2017 (about 17k miles or so ago).
EDIT: In the interest of science (and no small portion of general laziness) I`m not using the CanCoat/Booster on the roofs of these vans so we`ll see how the coating alone fares as time moves on. Additionally, since this vehicle has a lot of black/plastic trim I decided to see how CanCoat protects that going forward as well. I was gonna use Gyeon Trim on one side and (new for me) Gtechniq C4 TRim Restorer but laziness took over and I just covered it all with CanCoat; CanCoat sure goes a long way, too. Still have about 10% left in my first can and have done 2 coats on a Ford Ranger, an E-250 Van, this 2016 Ford Transit van and a couple of misc hoods here and there.
Pics after wash/chemical decon/CanCoat/Overcoat application:
Attachments
purebrilliance
New member
Re: CQuartz Update; finally decon’d and washed it
Obviously Ohio Echeck is working... /sarcasm
This is great news as I have a bottle of CQUK sitting in my house to go on my personal Tacoma. I`ll be firing up my Mr Heater Buddies here soon to keep the garage warm enough to polish and coat.
Obviously Ohio Echeck is working... /sarcasm
This is great news as I have a bottle of CQUK sitting in my house to go on my personal Tacoma. I`ll be firing up my Mr Heater Buddies here soon to keep the garage warm enough to polish and coat.
booyah
New member
I hear ya--can go deep with these things haha! the truck is Fords Platinum Tri-color white so it will have some metal flake in it. It will be a 2018 new off the lot, so I cannot see it being in bad shape. Will 1 bottle 30Ml be enough to do a Full size truck?
If the ISM will greatly add protection to the main Miyabi coat then I may go for it--Im assuming that the Overcoat will add some added protection as well, maybe not as much as the ISM? How do you think the ISM will look on the pearl metallic white paint?
What would be good to coat the windows/windshield so water will just flow off? Can you use the Miyabi or overcoat on the windows as well?
WOW-that red van looks Killer!!
BudgetPlan1
Active member
Hard to say how much ISM will add to white (besides additional protection); I generally look for the most gloss I can get with white and (to me in my limited experience) ISM is really strong at deepening dark colors and really kinda `floats` the metallic elements in darker metallic paints...I`ve never used it on white. The ISM, for me, is a depth and warmth kinda thing (in addition to another layer of protection) which might be hard to discern on white.
Protection-wise, Miyabi is the harder coating (for whatever that`s worth) and Overcoat will provide additional protection. I`m not sure you`ll get 2 coats outta 30ml, more likely need more than that. I just did a 2017 F150 (4 door) with Gyeon Mohs (2 coats) and it took about 40ml. My old 2016 Subaru WRX got 2 coats outta 30ml of Miyabi and a 2015 Kia Optima barely squeezed 2 coats outta 30ml.
Below is vendor longevity suggestions regarding Miyabi and Miyabi/ISM combo; maybe contact them and see what they think. They sure know more about it than I do
As for glass/window coatings I actually had some Kamikaze Intenso window coating sent over from UK as it`s not sold in US. While it had just amazing water behavior, bug/debris strikes left little trails after impact...and they were stubborn to remove. I`ve since moved to Gyeon View and am pretty content with that although I hear good things about Gtechniq glass coating as well. I think I read somewhere that Kamikaze Overcoat is OK for glass though likely not as durable as a dedicated glass coating. Dunno but since I use Overcoat after each wash as a drying aid, it`s ending up on the windshield as well so who knows.
Kamikaze Intenso: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmyO3O9xMaY
Attachments
booyah
New member
Hard to say how much ISM will add to white (besides additional protection); I generally look for the most gloss I can get with white and (to me in my limited experience) ISM is really strong at deepening dark colors and really kinda `floats` the metallic elements in darker metallic paints...I`ve never used it on white. The ISM, for me, is a depth and warmth kinda thing (in addition to another layer of protection) which might be hard to discern on white.
Protection-wise, Miyabi is the harder coating (for whatever that`s worth) and Overcoat will provide additional protection. I`m not sure you`ll get 2 coats outta 30ml, more likely need more than that. I just did a 2017 F150 (4 door) with Gyeon Mohs (2 coats) and it took about 40ml. My old 2016 Subaru WRX got 2 coats outta 30ml of Miyabi and a 2015 Kia Optima barely squeezed 2 coats outta 30ml.
Below is vendor longevity suggestions regarding Miyabi and Miyabi/ISM combo; maybe contact them and see what they think. They sure know more about it than I do
As for glass/window coatings I actually had some Kamikaze Intenso window coating sent over from UK as it`s not sold in US. While it had just amazing water behavior, bug/debris strikes left little trails after impact...and they were stubborn to remove. I`ve since moved to Gyeon View and am pretty content with that although I hear good things about Gtechniq glass coating as well. I think I read somewhere that Kamikaze Overcoat is OK for glass though likely not as durable as a dedicated glass coating. Dunno but since I use Overcoat after each wash as a drying aid, it`s ending up on the windshield as well so who knows.
Kamikaze Intenso: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmyO3O9xMaY
Thanks for all the feedback--I value what you say since you have been experimenting for a while with lots of products. Seems like I may skip the ISM and just go with overcoat since it seems it may not do much for look wise, and I think 2 coats of the Miyabi will do just fine!
Thank you budgetplan for shareing and follow up with your testing!
It`s very intresting to read about your testing and your opinions of them. Very helpfull for us beginners in coatings.
I will do my first coating this spring. If I get a place to be in before I may get it done sooner. The first coating I got a great deal on and is Polish Angel master sealant with esclate lotion as a primer. Had my eay on cquarts uk and tac system power and csl. I really wanted miyabi ism but it`s to pricey for me and where I live you can ad some more on the price. Master sealant I have seen good reviews and hos it looks and like the little more warmer look to it. And the longevity of 12 months suits me well if I want to go with another coating after that time. Got me some PA high gloss on sale also. Know I have to deal with the waiting to apply hehe
I have a little request if you can do a before shot on the vehicals you do. To see what shape they are in.
How do you experience the washing on them? Are they much harder to wash than your personal cars?
Have you thought of useing a tar remover and a citrus based degreaser when decon them? Maybe a water spot remover also. It maybe get the last of to pass the baggie test. Or you maybe get the most with your wash so what is left needs to clay to get ridd of.
You do awesome write ups and thanks for your details in them!
It`s very intresting to read about your testing and your opinions of them. Very helpfull for us beginners in coatings.
I will do my first coating this spring. If I get a place to be in before I may get it done sooner. The first coating I got a great deal on and is Polish Angel master sealant with esclate lotion as a primer. Had my eay on cquarts uk and tac system power and csl. I really wanted miyabi ism but it`s to pricey for me and where I live you can ad some more on the price. Master sealant I have seen good reviews and hos it looks and like the little more warmer look to it. And the longevity of 12 months suits me well if I want to go with another coating after that time. Got me some PA high gloss on sale also. Know I have to deal with the waiting to apply hehe
I have a little request if you can do a before shot on the vehicals you do. To see what shape they are in.
How do you experience the washing on them? Are they much harder to wash than your personal cars?
Have you thought of useing a tar remover and a citrus based degreaser when decon them? Maybe a water spot remover also. It maybe get the last of to pass the baggie test. Or you maybe get the most with your wash so what is left needs to clay to get ridd of.
You do awesome write ups and thanks for your details in them!
Let me add my thanks as well Budget Man. You are very thorough and informative. I always learn a little something from your reviews. Like you, I am beginning to have an up close and personal relationship with CanCoat. A little really does go a long way. Due to my wild-west desert dry air low humidity location, I still find I need to work smaller sized areas and do an almost immediate wipe, or else I get very stubborn high spots. Do you find the same? Also the black trim on that Red Van looked very nice for an outside working van. Did you dress it prior to Can Coat? The other routine I do differently is that my after wash routine is Cure cut at 50%. Due to the price, the Kammi Overcoat / VS1 Final Coat products I only use every couple months or so. If I used Overcoat after every wash I wouldn`t have any beer money left.
The Guz
Mike
Re: CQuartz Update; finally decon’d and washed it
The Cquatz you used is often referred to as classic or TiO2. 110 does sound catchy. I like the performance of both versions of cquartz and both of them used together. TiO2 looks nice on light colors and UK looks good on dark colors.
With regards to your iron decon frustrations, are you using it on a wet surface or dry surface after you wash? Maybe you don`t have a lot of bad stuff to deal with.
The Cquatz you used is often referred to as classic or TiO2. 110 does sound catchy. I like the performance of both versions of cquartz and both of them used together. TiO2 looks nice on light colors and UK looks good on dark colors.
With regards to your iron decon frustrations, are you using it on a wet surface or dry surface after you wash? Maybe you don`t have a lot of bad stuff to deal with.
Accumulator
Well-known member
BudgetPlan1 said:
Cleveland or not, maybe your contaminants just aren`t of a ferrous nature. And, heh heh...[INSERT my usual caveat about judging your experiences in comparison with what you see on the internet
]
BudgetPlan1
Active member
Will try to remember a before picture, which for the next few months will look pretty bad as they started with the salt and brine on the roads this week; winter finally arrived. Likely no rain to wash `em off for a while.
As these vehicles are usually moving relatively often during the day and not returning to a stationary position until after dusk, the rain usually cleans `em up pretty well. They don`t often sit out in the sun after a rain and when they do get rained on, there usually moving soon after (or during) and the water is beading/sheeting off of them.
Washing them is certainly harder than our personal cars, not much slickness after all these months with no maintenance, especially drying. Not too terrible, but certainly harder. Gyeon Mohs was worst in that respect. Still was glossy and somehow still staying very clean but had lost it`s coating `feel`.
As for citrus cleaners or tar remover, don`t have any citrus cleaner and the one way I know the coating is still there is how easily the tar and more substantial smudges come off in the wash. Have Tar-X but haven`t needed to use it during the `refreshes` so far. May require a little more enthusiasm wirh the wash mitt but these blemishes have come off without the need for more aggressive chemicals.
I just got the 22ple Soft Glass Coat Clay today, will use on refresh of the 22ple HPC vehicle...albeit very carefully.
I use CanCoat literally like a quick detailer, pretty much wipe on, wipe around, wipe off...its addictive. I did notice a high spot/smudge around the external hinge of the last van today...just due to my inattention...sometimes with these fleet vehicles I`m doing them later at night, after working all day and can get a bit hurried. When it`s approaching 10pm on a Tuesday night and the alarm is going off at 4:30am Wednesday morning, time gets a little compressed. That`s one of the nice things about the fleet vehicles...different levels of meticulous involved than when doing a `car that matters`.
Overcoat goes very, very far for me. Used as a drying aid with a Platinum Pluffle, just getting to the end of the 250ml bottle i got last Spring, used on 3 cars getting washed at least every other week from April thru November.
I usually give it a quick wash and dry and then spray it down with Sonax Fallout, about 16oz a vehicle. Agitate/spread with microfiber applicator pad after a bit of dwell time, then lightly mist with water to keep from drying out before finally getting around to rinsing entire vehicle.
Cleveland or not, maybe your contaminants just aren`t of a ferrous nature. And, heh heh...[INSERT my usual caveat about judging your experiences in comparison with what you see on the internet
I have seen the stuff at work, just a spot here and there usually, often around door handles. I just wanna see the dramatic bleeds I sometimes see pics of. Maybe I need to go park a vehicle across the street from a foundry for a week or two.
The Guz
Mike
I normally just spray it on the surface that has dirt and then rinse it off. I keep it wet with a little more product. Then rinse it off and proceed with washing. Essentially taking part of the Mike Phillips Aggressive Wash Method. I do not agitate nor do I add water as I do not want to dilute the product.
Perhaps you are not in an area that has a lot of iron contaminants.