I am desperate :wall .After of lot of tries to remove all the swirls,haze marring etc and give the shine back to my car,after applying the sealants glazes wax etc to protect it and give to it more shine,today after washing it some swirls are back again .This Honda paint is not very soft but EXTREMELY SOFT and the car is black.I used the 2 bucket method and a lampswool wash mitt,microfiber towel for drying and after the third wash(that it was today,i finished the detail about 3 weeks ago) some swirls are back.Is there something that i can use to remove them or at least hide them(because i will remove the clear coat if i polish it every 3 weeks),without removing the sealant?(it took me 3 days for a complete application,1 coat every 12 hours).I will do anything to remove them even polish it every week if there was no possibility to remove the clear coat.All possible solutions are welcome....
Swirls are back : (
- Thread starter pampos
- Start date
Accumulator
Well-known member
Pampos- No way to polish out the swirls without going through the sealant to get to them. And similarly, every time you abrasively polish out the marring you remove a little more clearcoat.
I would a) incorporate a foamgun into your wash regimen, b) start using a glaze/carnauba approach instead of the sealant (sealants don't hide anything and are, IMO, best on vehicles that can remain marring-free for extended periods).
I would a) incorporate a foamgun into your wash regimen, b) start using a glaze/carnauba approach instead of the sealant (sealants don't hide anything and are, IMO, best on vehicles that can remain marring-free for extended periods).
I am using the Blue Perl MF Drying towel.I have no idea what i am doing wrong.There is also a lot of dust in the air and i don't know if this is the problem.I know that it will be a problem if i am polish it every month.So i am looking for something to hide them(at least) until the next polishing day(once every six month i think is the ideal).
ajnavo61490
AJ Auto Detail, LLC
imported_detailjohn
New member
The easiest way I can explain this is to reclay bar your car, and go through the 3M Perfect-It 3000 method finishing with Ultrafina. Then apply a nice sealant. For now, the best way to hide your swirls is to park in the shade.
John
John
Accumulator
Well-known member
I don't think I'd bother correcting it again so soon, I'd work on the wash technique so it doesn't get all marred up again right away. No point getting it perfect if that's only gonna last a few weeks. Washing without marring can be very difficult; think about what's involved- how do you move abrasive dirt across the paint to get it off without moving it *under pressure*, which is what causes most wash-induced marring.
There are some simple steps you can take to make things a bit better:
Use a high-lubricity shampoo, preferably one that also features good encapsulation characteristics. I use Griot's Car Wash, but there are other good ones. Cheap shampoos are much harder for me to use without getting marring.
Move the wash media in short, interrupted motions, like "jiggling" a BHB/mitt/etc. across the panels. That way any marring that does happen will be short little scratches instead of long, obvious ones. Preferably, foamgun output would be sprayed at the point where the wash media contact the paint (this can take a good bit of practice as it's sorta a rub-stomach-pat-head kind of thing because you have to move the foamgun differently than your moving the BHB/mitt and you have to move them at the same time).
Keep the wash media clean. As soon as a mitt picks up some dirt it becomes almost like sandpaper, so don't move a dirty mitt across the panels. Rinse it out as often as you have to. Foamguns help with this, but (other than with BHBs, see below) don't eliminate the problem.
Use a free-rinsing wash medium like a BHB and spray foamgun output through the bristles to keep dirt/etc. flushed away. I always do this for the initial passes and the proof of its efficacy is in the rinse buckets- I hardly get *any* dirt in my rinse buckets even when washing a nasty-winter-dirty vehicle; the dirt gets flushed away instead of sticking to the wash media. I do the BHB passes first and then rewash with my mitts.
Don't scrub off tenacious dirt. Wash very gently and remove residual dirt with Sonus green ultra-fine clay. Knead/replace the clay as soon as it picks up dirt, don't move the dirty clay across the paint.
Spray a good QD on the paint before doing the final drying. It can lubricate and even encapsulate residual dirt that somehow got missed during the wash (or that got flushed out from behind trim/etc. during the rinse). Yeah yeah, you shouldn't *have* residual dirt, but it still happens so it pays to be aware of the possibility and have a solution ready at hand.
There are some simple steps you can take to make things a bit better:
Use a high-lubricity shampoo, preferably one that also features good encapsulation characteristics. I use Griot's Car Wash, but there are other good ones. Cheap shampoos are much harder for me to use without getting marring.
Move the wash media in short, interrupted motions, like "jiggling" a BHB/mitt/etc. across the panels. That way any marring that does happen will be short little scratches instead of long, obvious ones. Preferably, foamgun output would be sprayed at the point where the wash media contact the paint (this can take a good bit of practice as it's sorta a rub-stomach-pat-head kind of thing because you have to move the foamgun differently than your moving the BHB/mitt and you have to move them at the same time).
Keep the wash media clean. As soon as a mitt picks up some dirt it becomes almost like sandpaper, so don't move a dirty mitt across the panels. Rinse it out as often as you have to. Foamguns help with this, but (other than with BHBs, see below) don't eliminate the problem.
Use a free-rinsing wash medium like a BHB and spray foamgun output through the bristles to keep dirt/etc. flushed away. I always do this for the initial passes and the proof of its efficacy is in the rinse buckets- I hardly get *any* dirt in my rinse buckets even when washing a nasty-winter-dirty vehicle; the dirt gets flushed away instead of sticking to the wash media. I do the BHB passes first and then rewash with my mitts.
Don't scrub off tenacious dirt. Wash very gently and remove residual dirt with Sonus green ultra-fine clay. Knead/replace the clay as soon as it picks up dirt, don't move the dirty clay across the paint.
Spray a good QD on the paint before doing the final drying. It can lubricate and even encapsulate residual dirt that somehow got missed during the wash (or that got flushed out from behind trim/etc. during the rinse). Yeah yeah, you shouldn't *have* residual dirt, but it still happens so it pays to be aware of the possibility and have a solution ready at hand.
ScubaStevo
New member
I tried 3M ultrafina and its amazing. I'd definatly recommend it. 
imported_DieselMDX
New member
any recomendations on a QD I am thinking of grabbing last touch
I have had identical problems with my soft black honda/acura paint...even made a thread similar to yours a week ago. I'd recommend touching the paint as little as possible. Due to poor weather, I have yet to wash the car since my last buffing but here's some things I'm gonna try.
Wash with the short jiggle method and in up and down strokes.
Rinse my wash media after every 1-2 foot section.
Dry with Leaf Blower
QD under halogen's (to see if this is where the swirls come from) and in left right motions.
Then....if the swirls come back and are in up/down direction I know it's from the washing.....if they are in left right direction, I know they came from QD'ing. It's worth a shot until I can afford a foam gun. Good Luck.
Oh, and I use Meg's last touch and it works great, but my favorite is still the Turtle Wax Platinum Ultra Gloss.
Wash with the short jiggle method and in up and down strokes.
Rinse my wash media after every 1-2 foot section.
Dry with Leaf Blower
QD under halogen's (to see if this is where the swirls come from) and in left right motions.
Then....if the swirls come back and are in up/down direction I know it's from the washing.....if they are in left right direction, I know they came from QD'ing. It's worth a shot until I can afford a foam gun. Good Luck.
Oh, and I use Meg's last touch and it works great, but my favorite is still the Turtle Wax Platinum Ultra Gloss.
Envious Eric
New member
DieselMDX said:
i dont like last touch as a QD....only as a clay lube cut 1:1
megs 34 final inspection is a good QD...cleans and leaves a nice shine...it might dull the paint a tad, but OCW brings it right back for me (door jams)
Accumulator
Well-known member
toyotaguy said:
I really like #34, but for jobs like this it's not my choice (I still use it to remove polish residues when correcting and for other cleaning jobs). One thing that got me off of #34 is the way it can kill an almost-dead LSP whereas other QDs can help the old LSP hang on for a little longer.
Rather than do a two-step with #34 and OCW I'd rather do a one-step with a QD that leaves a lot of stuff behind. I suppose that's not quite the same as using a real wax like OCW though :think:
DieselMDX said:
For me it sorta depends on the LSP, I like certain QDs on certain LSPs. The New Optimum QD sounds interesting, and I'm still very happy with FK425 on top of most anything. Over Carnuabas I like Griot's SpeedShine. On my sealants (KSG and UPP) the BF QD and UGE work about the same. For some reason I just never fell in love with QuikShine :nixweiss