Subaru's sticky paint + 1st time DA'ing it... tips?

pleased? yes.

Satisfied? No.

Under the sun, i can still see very fine sctaches... and the lower body has some random scratches easily spoted (ie, out of the sun).

So my next detailing will be using the HD uno and/or Polish sample bottles that came with the kit.



I also found the roof to be kinda annoying to do because (and maybe i was applying too much pressure) it would cave-in here and there making the DA vibrate... it's funny how some on some surfaces, the DA would ve very smooth to move around, and other areas where it would vibrate... not sure why...



next project: 1 stage original 20yr old civic car... not sure what i'll use, but I may play around with many test spots to see what correction i can get... I'm always worried that a lot of the paint will transfer to the pads... oh well!
 
jojo69- The paint transfer when working single-stage is messy/ugly/irritating, but usually not a huge deal as long as you let it be a prompt to clean your pads.



And the stained pads usually work just fine on other paints, not like they'll transfer that paint back onto another car (well, not if you've cleaned them up well at least). I might think twice about using a ss-red paint-stained pad on a white car, but most of the time the "dirty looking" pads work just fine with zero issues.
 
You might want to try Dawn Power Dissolver (spray bottle at Walmart $2.83) to clean the pads. Never used it on SS paint transfer, but it removes everything else including DG501 that is a bear to get out of pads.
 
Well I wanted to update this with a few pics of swirls/rids on hood. I was testing Victoria wax chaos vs M#16 just because so I stripped and clayed the hood. I then decided to do a quick polish and used green pad + HD polish + HD da. Results in pics and small video.



... After reviewing some posts and old conversations I realized 2 things:

1) Its a good thing I went less aggressive with green pad but before I blame the product I could have tried the orange pad.

2) I think I should have tried Uno instead of Polish to try and get those swirls out... I don't know why but I thought polish had more cutting ability...

3) when comparing products, having a level plane where the car sits is best... I realized after that the driver side was slightly more inclined than passenger and thus gravity might have been exerting its power with the sheeting action... Hahaha, live and learn!



Also, this was done in full sun/overcast... NOT the best conditions as everyone knows :p

I will apply a second coat of wax on the hood and see how long either/both last...



Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 4
 
Please excuse the amateur and cell phone quality pics/video.



swirls under the sun (pics/video)





VID_20130903_121043_zpsd39a7f75.mp4 Video by dj-bilbo | Photobucket



VID_20130903_125551_zpsc089cc20.mp4 Video by dj-bilbo | Photobucket









50/50 victoria's chaos on left side, M#16 on right



VID_20130903_133041_zps8fd5217a.mp4 Video by dj-bilbo | Photobucket





Sheeting/beading of both. 1 coating under full sun (so probably not the best application). I would say both beaded/sheet just about the same. Application was easy (even on hot car/under sun). Victoria seems to give a more deep glow whereas M#16 is more clear. That picture actually shows it fairly well.



Next time it's time to wax the entire car (probably in a month or so), I'll try orange pad + Uno and see if I can get some of those swirls out of the hood!
 
Yesterday, I ended up buffing a metallic black WRX with ONR W&W in a spray bottle and an Optimum MF polishing pad and my Rupes. Nothing else worked. Everything was sticking like glue. OHP, G-P-S, HD Polish, HD Speed and Ultrafina. And I was actually able to get the buffer trails out of the paint and noticeably knock down the spider swirls. :lol



And even removing the hazed on polishes wasn't easy, was taking several passes with the pad and ONR. Even Optimum Power Clean wasn't removing the hazed up polishes without adding in a pad and the Rupes.
 
There was a post on another forum as a follow up to an HD Cut review--can't remember the poster. He tried HD Cut on a soft RED pad on some very soft Nissan paint and had good removal and finished down very well.
 
Can someone point me in the direction to learn about "sticky" paint? I've heard the term before but not sure what aspect of the process makes a paint "sticky". I've worked mainly on GM and Ford clears that are hard or really hard. However I did an Escalade with soft paint which kinda threw me at first.



Thanks. :nod:
 
jojo69 said:
I also found the roof to be kinda annoying to do because (and maybe i was applying too much pressure) it would cave-in here and there making the DA vibrate... it's funny how some on some surfaces, the DA would ve very smooth to move around, and other areas where it would vibrate... not sure why...
Click to expand...



I recently cleaned up my girlfriend's 2008 Impreza WRX Silver paint with my flex 3401 and had the same problem with the roof. Very annoying.



I used Optimum Polish II with an LC Hybrid Orange pad and followed that up with Optimum Finish on an LC Hybrid White pad. Polish II with LC orange had barely enough bite to remove all the swirls. When doing test spots I tested Optimum Compound II and that stuck like glue so I just did twice as many passes with Polish II. Took longer but was able to work with it. Even Optimum Finish wanted to stick a little which surprised me. Polish II didn't really stick at all.
 
LilJayV10 said:
Can someone point me in the direction to learn about "sticky" paint? I've heard the term before but not sure what aspect of the process makes a paint "sticky". I've worked mainly on GM and Ford clears that are hard or really hard. However I did an Escalade with soft paint which kinda threw me at first.



Thanks. :nod:
Click to expand...



Sticky means after a compounding/polishing cycle, the compound or polish will not wipe off of the paint, it sticks like glue. You will definitely know it if it happens, the residue will stick to the paint and no matter how hard you wipe, it will not come off. You have to find a polish that will wipe off of the paint, sometimes it can differ from car to car, like on one car, HD Polish will be the only polish that wipes off, while on another car it won't but maybe Opt Hyper Polish will be the only one that wipes off. It's very much a PITA. I know there's a couple threads on here about it, try doing a search. Subaru's seem to have the biggest problem with this.
 
 It seems that I have my work cut out for me...
hu11f.jpg
 
 
I haven't had 'sticky' issues with Hd cut or speed so far, and that's been with green/orange pads...


 


I'd like to try Adapt on orange to see the results... so far I haven't gotten the cut I've wanted and therefore swirl removing ability I've looked for but then I haven't played with more aggressive compounds and pads. 
 
Just thought I'd chime in because I recently had to deal with some serious sticky STI paint. Every polish I tried was like concrete to remove off the paint. HD . polish, M101, M105, FG400, M205. Then I tried some D300 on a microfiber pad and bingo, it wiped away effortlessly. On some areas I mixed it with M101 and still wiped off very easily. Finished it off with D301 and that wiped away very easily as well. D300 would definitely remove all the minor swirling you have.
 
Thanks for the chime in :-) all inputs are all appreciated!
Havent plunged on a new compound yet even though adapt intrigues me.... ill look into d300!

Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201
 
Well this is my first post on Autopia (couldn't find any form of 'intro' section) - I have been posting on Autogeek for a while though and have been detailing (weekends only) for about the past 3 years, and have around 60 full corrections under my belt. I am based over in South Africa, hence the 'SA' at the end of my username. I was reading through this post and thought I would share my experiences with Subaru paint. Admittedly I have only done 2 of them, but never really struggled with 'stickiness' - I did however notice that the paint was extremely soft - not sure if this classifies as the same thing though.


 


Anyway, I am not sure if this is allowed (if not, mods please delete accordingly) but here are the links to the 2 said Subaru details. Both were corrected using Menzerna SF4000 


 


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/60312-java-black-pearl-subaru-impreza-wrx-detailed-lawrence.html 


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/67270-obsidian-black-subaru-impreza-sti-detailed-lawrence.html


 


Perhaps you may find some luck with this polish?


 


Lawrence
 
SVR said:
Hi Mate


I've been working on sticky suby's since 2003.

Using an RO is the best option, a forced rotation can work but may need to increase your arm speed to prevent the stickiness from starting up


As far as rotary goes if, keeping the speed below 1250 or even 1000 can help a heap


my best weapon for sticky paint is using High Tech Polish, which is like water, really thin and wet and adding a drop or two of Diggers brand parrafin oil on the pad to prevent the stickiness from occurring. its the same stuff that goes into many polishes


one drop or two per every two to four sections done. reapply with every pad change or clean of same pad

Don't overuse as it means more effort to remove the residue. Much better as a lube than glycerin as that makes you think you still have lubrication from the polish when it's all dried up and stuck to the paint
Click to expand...


I am curious about the need to add the paraffin oil to stop the paint stickiness.


Can the same be attained by using ONR?  Could you use a wax? 


I'm just wondering if I could substitute a product that I am already using.
 
Scottwax said:
And even removing the hazed on polishes wasn't easy, was taking several passes with the pad and ONR. Even Optimum Power Clean wasn't removing the hazed up polishes without adding in a pad and the Rupes.
Click to expand...


 


Scott, if I understand your post correctly, then you buffed with a MF pad and ONR?


DId you mean that you just pulled off the previous polish residue with a ONR?


I don't quite understand it if you actually did buffing with with ONR and MF
 
Well I will revive this thread and update. 


First off, I'm having a hard time finding flaws or significant differences on my hood between Victoria wax and #m16... both still seem to shed some water, nothing like when I first applied them of course, but it would seem to indicate that after an entire winter and little upkeep on the hood, there is still some protection? (I realize this is not very 'autopian' of me and quite a subjective conclusion that I can't substantiate and wpild require more testing, but I don't have the courage right now...) 


 


Second, I bought HD adapt and I can't wait to try it. The car will need a good buff from all the crap of this winter. 


My thoughts were to try HD adapt with a green B&S pad (and try orange if green isn't enough). Then either use a HD polish or HD speed for final passes with green pad or maybe even something softer? . I will try test spots on the roof before I decide what route to take. Hopefully, that will work better and get rid of all the swirls that my last detail didn't! 


 


I'll appreciate any input on the steps listed above in terms of pdct/pad combo. I have the same materials as listed in the original post. I will post pics/vids as soon as I find the right time/location to start this spring cleaning! 
 
Here is my take on sticky paint with jap paints.


II believe these paints do not have any isocyanate hardeners in their formula and the paint is soft to very soft and has a low heat and abrasive resistance.


If I'm wrong about the hardeners then I am happy to be corrected if anyone knows more.


From my experience since 2003, If you keep the rotary speeds down below 1100 and move a little quicker, the stickiness will not cut in

With random orbital it is more forgiving, forced rotation with a big throw could be more painful than rotary as it is more aggressive than rotary.


These paints are easy to correct and due to being soft, you can really transform the paint from dry looking, dull and peely to a rich super wet finish with low to no orange peel and great clarity.


I'm no expert but I find the following things to be a great help in dealing with these paints


If using rotary or forced da - either do bigger areas or move the machine at a higher arm speed

Do not use compounds, they are not needed as the paint is soft


Use finishing polishes or medium grade polishes which are runnier and wetter which means a better finish


I use a polish which is as runny as water and is super wet to start the correction and our jeweling polish to finish with. It never dries up, it is forever wet and wont go stringy like other products when the film is over worked.


European and Australian closed and open cell foams from 50 to 120 pores per inch are what I use

If using microfiber, dont use the cutting mf pads, the polish ones are strong enough


Paraffin oil aka mineral oil.

I use this on sticky paints and whenever I use fibre based pads like wool, microfiber, rayon and surbuf pads


I've never noticed any filling from using a tiny amount every two sections polished.

It keeps the pads moist and keeps the temps down so I don't induce the sticky paint


Mf pads and surbufs are very bad for not remaining moist during the buffing cycle like foam pads do.

Thus if they are not kept moist, they will not provide a wet rich finish, having a wet oily looking polish film on the surface is one of the keys to a great finish


A dash of paraffin oil will keep them moist and the polish film too and it will wipe off easily with just some water and a damp towel.


When it comes to water based polishes ( oil in water not water in oil) with no solvents or very little solvents, do not spray water on the mf pads or any for that matter as it will wash away the lubricants in the polish and break it down to nothing eventually


Water is not needed to keep the polish film wet if the formula is right.


I never remove product residue off paint without a good few sprays of water to keep it lubed and to limit the amount of wipes needed.


I hope this helps
 
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