Subaru's sticky paint + 1st time DA'ing it... tips?

jojo69- I can't help with the Adapt or the B&S pads (never used either), but as for the wax, the M16 on my wife's Audi really did need redone by the end of winter, as it does every year.  No biggie as waxing is pretty quick and easy, and it sounds like you're gonna be doing some correction anyhow.


 


Hope yours isn't one of those problematic, "sticky" Subarus, please post back about how things go.
 
Well I did a quick HD speed on green after wash/clay process from last year pre-winter prep. Either I'm getting better at it or dumb luck but the da'ing process was easier and with satisfying results. Although as many have commented the HD speed durability is, in my experience so far, so so. I'll be washing the car again in the next couple weeks and applying 845 I think.

Interestingly my pre-winter prep included 2 coats of 475 and a 3rd of 845 on the whole car. That was in Nov/dec time. I cleaned the car once with onr, most of the washes were water only. Roof still beads!! Hahahaha. Guess there's still some collinite left on the paint!

I'll b doing a friends very dirty white '11 wrx this weekend. I may finally get a chance to try adapt with green or orange b&s pads. That should be interesting ;)

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So here we go. I did a friend's 4 door white Subaru... I didn't know it was THAT dirty... but after 8 hours of work (from inital wash to final wipe of Collinte 845), I was VERY happy with the results.


 


2 products stood out as being very effective in this case: TarX and Adapt.


 


Car regimen included a Dawn wash (the car had no lsp), TarX, re-wash, clay, re-wash with Meg's Gold, and then Buff&Shine orange foam pad with Adapt.


 


The car was filthy, tar specks everywhere and rust blooms everywhere on lower panels and bumpers!


TarX took care of the tar, with a little agitation for the bigger spots. 


For the rust bloom, I had no Valuguard system, no IronX etc... I wasn't sure what to do. I had white Meg's clay and Mother's Yellow clay and they barely touched the rust (probably fine grade I guess).


 


I was ready to give up and said why not try Adapt on them... 2 passes later, no blooms left! I was very nicely surprised.


 


My experience with Adapt: easy to use, minimal to no dusting, applied medium pressure and finished well. I did encounter areas of the paint where there seemed to be some polish left on the paint after my passes that I had a hard time getting off... I am not sure if it was the infamous Subaru soft paint, the pad being too gunked up (yes I cleaned them often), of a technique issue (I did 2 passes on speed 5 using HD DA, medium pressure, then 1 or 2 passes on 3, no pressure other than weight of DA).


I did notice that Adapt worked best with clean pads and although I used 3 pads to do the entire car (minus roof), It would have been better with 4 pads.


 


Long story short, Adapt rocks, TarX rocks and I need to buy more pads! :)


Pics below are from cell, sorry... it should give you an idea of before and after.


 


Cheers!


 


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after TarX


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Left side untouched, right side cleaned with adapt


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Outside after pics


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jojo69- Hey, that really turned out nice!


 


It'll be interesting to see if the rust-blooms "come back".  If not, then there was no need to ABC/etc. anyhow..maybe the Adapt got everything taken care of.
 
Accumulator- Thanks. I was very happy how adapt worked (other than the residue which I assume came from either dirty pads, too much product or not worked adapt enough on paint). And yes, knowing the owner's tendency to not really take care of the car, I should know relatively quick whether the rust-bloom will be back or not. I have to admit I did not tackle his lower lip areas so they still have rust bloom embedded in the paint. I told him it was a reminder of the before state of his car. hahahaha

It would be nice to know that Adapt got rid of it for good or not. Either way it'll just be another reason for me to suck it up, pay shipping and finally get the ABC system!

Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201
 
jojo69 -- Really looks great!!!  Don't forget if you don't want to bite the bullet with the ABC system you could give IronX a try.   Not as complete a system as ABC, but ALLOT less expensive.
 
pwaug said:
jojo69 -- Really looks great!!!  Don't forget if you don't want to bite the bullet with the ABC system you could give IronX a try.   Not as complete a system as ABC, but ALLOT less expensive.
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Yes, as a topical application, I am sure IronX would work great. But in order to do a full decon and minimize mechanical decon, I think ABC is probably the better option... Ideally, having both in my arsenal would be awesome! hahahaha. In the meantime, I will get IronX to finish the lower skirts of my friend's car. 


 


Quick Q's: the lower skirts have rust-bloom. The skirts have been waxed once with Collinite 845. Should I strip that first before spraying IronX or just spray? I'm assuming another coat of wax after all is said and done couldn't hurt. 
 
jojo69 said:
 


 


Quick Q's: the lower skirts have rust-bloom. The skirts have been waxed once with Collinite 845. Should I strip that first before spraying IronX or just spray? I'm assuming another coat of wax after all is said and done couldn't hurt. 
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IronX does remove iron from within the paint as far as I know not ust surface rust.   I've always given the car a strong wash with CG Citrus wash before using IronX, but I don't know if it's required the do my claying.  You could send an email to Corey at CarPro if these instructions don't answer your question:


 


http://www.carpro-us.com/iron-x-500ml/
 
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