Stop giving wool pads a bad name. They are your friend

Accumulator said:
Oddly enough I've found that these days I *do* like the Meguiar's Burgundy foam cutting pads! For *ages* I never liked/used them, but these days I like 'em with the Flex 3401 and the Griot's 6" RO, when using M105 and OHC. I think it's a combo of the nondiminshing abrasives and the more powerful RO polishers :think: When I want to get aggressive with foam and a RO, those are the pads I'm reaching for at present.



I agree.... and I think a lot of it too has to do with the fact that Meguiar's changed the foam they use when the SoftBuff 2.0 pads were released, and the new foam is significantly better than the original stuff was.
 
I remember so well back in the mid 70's working after high school in the body shop sanding cars. The guy that did the painting would buff out the lacquar with an old rotary - the 15 pounder kind and big fluffy wool pads. He's use this thick compound that looked like orange mud and spurred with a modified screwdriver of course. I know you're thinking the cars had to look like crap - WRONG! I'm talking smooth as glass here. But that was another time and paints have evolved. Everythng has really, but the basic principles are the same.
 
I would like to see the videos. :hungry:



As for wool vs. foam vs. pads that use some sort of fibrous material...



Giving some thought to how pads work, how pads contour, or what happens when the pad is moved this way or that and at what speed determines a pad's usefulness.



In my opinion, statements like foam swirls less or wool cuts more or wool pads run cooler are incomplete generalizations. I use words like "can" and "may" a lot, because so much depends upon the design of the pad, and the guy using it.



All pads have inherent limitations by design.



Based upon a need, a manufacturer builds a pad.

Or, they come up with an idea for a pad, make it, and sell it to vendors or end users.



I don't credit nor blame the raw material.

The design of the pad and the method of use are huge factors in determining its overall performance.
 
Wool pads are great. Try cutting sanding scratches with a yellow foam cutting pad and you're likely to start burning paint. Wool will cut faster and with less heat. Obviously you will need a minimum 3 stage polish, but if youre doing extensive polishing you gotta go the extra mile to make it perfect.
 
JohnKleven said:
... Try cutting sanding scratches with a yellow foam cutting pad and you're likely to start burning paint...



Mmm... not sure which yellow pad you speak of, but sanding scratches aren't necessarily a big deal to remove via foam. Of course, the level of refinement partly plays a large part in dictating the difficulty level.



Leveling can be more difficult to accomplish, but not impossible by a long shot.

A lot depends upon panel shape and the other parameters already mentioned.



Here's my friend Joe from Superior Shine using a wool pad:



7416Joerearpanel.jpg




Now Joe using a foam pad:



7416Joe_buffertaped.jpg




Here's me dialing the edge with a foam pad:



7416Kevinquarter.jpg




I should go on the record and state that this paint was fresh, and not completely cross-linked or cured. The wool was leaving pretty harsh string marks, so we both switched to foam, 1,000 RPM. I used lots of compound to keep a slurry there so the paint stayed wet and a bit cooler. Not sure how much Joe was using.



Not trying to battle, and I don't doubt the capabilities of the guys chiming in so far. But, there a lot of guys reading this may not be as skilled, and sometimes they take what they read as gospel.



Just trying to be clear for their sake, while posting my opinion.



Thanks. :usa
 
Kevin Brown said:
Mmm... not sure which yellow pad you speak of, but sanding scratches aren't necessarily a big deal to remove via foam. Of course, the level of refinement partly plays a large part in dictating the difficulty level.



Leveling can be more difficult to accomplish, but not impossible by a long shot.

A lot depends upon panel shape and the other parameters already mentioned.



I should go on the record and state that this paint was fresh, and not completely cross-linked or cured. The wool was leaving pretty harsh string marks, so we both switched to foam, 1,000 RPM. I used lots of compound to keep a slurry there so the paint stayed wet and a bit cooler. Not sure how much Joe was using.



Not trying to battle, and I don't doubt the capabilities of the guys chiming in so far. But, there a lot of guys reading this may not be as skilled, and sometimes they take what they read as gospel.



Just trying to be clear for their sake, while posting my opinion.



Thanks. :usa



Great input Kevin. I loved the lots of compound trick and use it as needed! :rockon: Im gonna have to steal that one. In general I could say one thing. In my world of polishing paint I actually never have a precise plan of attack until the car gets in front of me. One minute I grab wool, next minute it could be paper, and the next it could be foam. Then theres surbuff and microfiber pads. To me the endless thinking and improving never ends! One thing for sure is I only become better with an open mind!
 
porta said:
I am using wool pads on all my correction details, I prefere the smaller ones(5") similar to LC foamed wool and they are awesome. Using compressed air is a

great way to clean them, this make it so much easier to polish and to avoid hologramming.



I've got some 6" foamed wool pads, they are pretty aggressive so I don't use them too often but so glad I have them when I need 'em.
 
Scott, you need to try Micro Mesh black wool if you want to see something aggressive while finishing out pretty good. I do like the purple wool as well.



Scottwax said:
I've got some 6" foamed wool pads, they are pretty aggressive so I don't use them too often but so glad I have them when I need 'em.
 
SVR said:
G'day all



Was watching some you tube videos and a podcast from a supposedly industry legend in USA and had to totally disagree with their harsh comments about wool pads



The industry legend was saying that wool pads make a big mess all over the car and the detailer cause of the frizz flying everywhere and the haze, swirls, holograms etc that they leave behind.



Kevin Brown said:
I would like to see the videos. :hungry:



Kevin Brown said:
Anyone? Bueller? Link?



Uhhh... the invisible request? :help:
 
Well, I have searched and all I see are a bunch of guys trying to show others how to use detailing products.

None seem to be all that out of line or condescending towards wool pads.



Obviously I am missing it.



So, since you wrote about this SVR, can you please point me in the right direction?



Thanks! :help:
 
Sorry Kevin, been quite busy working on two Aston Martin Vantage's yesterday and spending six hours doing R & D on an MGB GT



I wont name the industry expert but you probably know him well

Still trying to find those videos
 
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