Should I wash after Claying?
- Thread starter phil7533
- Start date
NozeBleedSpeed
Right Wing Conservative
This is one of the best tips Ive gotten here to date. I clayed the last 2 cars,while I washed,and it is the easiest and best way Ive found to clay. It is much easier on the clay bar too. It saves mucho time and mess. Ill never clay with a lubricant on dry paint again.
SK2003TypeS
New member
Agreed, the soapy car wash works as a great lube and saves some time. 
phil7533 said:
There was a thread here a few months ago about just using runnign water, but I actually just use the soapy water from the wash bucket as a lubricant. Just wash a panel, rinse, load up the area with clean soapy water, clay and rinse again. Adds about 10-15 minutes to a normal wash.
Michael
imported_freddie
New member
I use a spray bottle with a little drop of soap as lube itts cheaper and just as good as lube. "Claying while you wash"as i heard one person say could be dangerouse if you have any dirt what so ever involved.
That's the point of washing first, rinsing and putting on fresh/clean suds for the lube. If you're not getting off all the dirt with the wash and rinse, doesn't matter what you do next (claying, drying, polishing), it's going to be "dangerouse if you have any dirt what so ever involved".freddie said:
Michael
BlueDragonZ
New member
I tried claying using the soap bucket and I wouldn't recommend it. The surface it too slippery and the clay bar is not really getting a good contact with your paint. IMO. I usually just spray the panel that I'm working with first then run the clay bar over it. I usually wash, rinse, clay, wash, rinse then go over the car with running water and microfiber to make sure that all of the clay residue it removed.
I used claymagic (about 1 year old) while washing, and the thing was like, absorbing the water and breaking up a little...and later when I was polishing, I found some spots on the paint that were apparently bits of the claybar that stuck to the paint. I was able to get them out, but it was -hard-.
I clay while I wash the car but am very careful to make sure that each panel is as clean as I can get it ....BEFORE...I start to clay.
Otherwise the clay bar gets too dirty too quickly.
Folding onto itself while wet and soapy has not caused any problem. Using ClayMagic and love it.
Otherwise the clay bar gets too dirty too quickly.
Folding onto itself while wet and soapy has not caused any problem. Using ClayMagic and love it.
I personally keep my washing and claying seperate. I spray the area I am about to clay with QD and then I dry off the QD when done. I then move onto the next section and repeat until the car is complete. As long as you dry the QD off as you go along you shouldn't need to wash your car again. You *shouldn't* have clay residue left on your paint either as long as you are claying properly.
Her is my own personal claying techinique which I've posted over on another board. I hope you find it helpful.
Bill.
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How to: Properly Clay your Car
Make sure you have thoroughly washed and dried your car prior to claying.
My clay of choice is the one made by 3M. They give you a very generous amount. Cut the bar in half. Take the half and cut it into 15 equal pieces:
2 for the hood
2 for the roof
1 for the trunk lid
1 for the trunk rear and rear bumper
2 for the rear quarter panels (1 per side)
4 for the doors (1 per door)(if you have a sedan)
2 for the front fenders (1 per side)
1 for the front of the car
Take the piece and roll it in to a sphere. Take the sphere and flatten it out into a circle so that it covers the top third of your first two fingers. Spray the first section of the roof with quick detailer. Glide the clay across the area in a front to back motion applying some pressure. Work in 2x2 areas. If you feel your fingers going through the clay, then you are pushing too hard. If the clay is streaking on the paint, then you need more QD. While gliding, you should hear a slight noise and feel some resistance. This is the grit being lifted from the paint. When the resistance and noise stops, dry the QD off with a quality towel. Move onto the next 2x2 section and do the same thing. Once half the section is done, flip the clay over and do the other half of the section. Once the section has been completed throw the piece of clay away. It is too contaminated to use on another section. If you do use it, you will most likely put micro scratches in your clear.
Keep working your way down using each dedicated piece for its area. Flip the clay over when you have completed half a section. Throw the clay away when the section is done.
When complete your car should be as smooth as glass. The next steps should be to remove the swirls (if necessary), clean the paint, and seal in the rejuvenated finish with a wax or sealant.
Her is my own personal claying techinique which I've posted over on another board. I hope you find it helpful.
Bill.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
How to: Properly Clay your Car
Make sure you have thoroughly washed and dried your car prior to claying.
My clay of choice is the one made by 3M. They give you a very generous amount. Cut the bar in half. Take the half and cut it into 15 equal pieces:
2 for the hood
2 for the roof
1 for the trunk lid
1 for the trunk rear and rear bumper
2 for the rear quarter panels (1 per side)
4 for the doors (1 per door)(if you have a sedan)
2 for the front fenders (1 per side)
1 for the front of the car
Take the piece and roll it in to a sphere. Take the sphere and flatten it out into a circle so that it covers the top third of your first two fingers. Spray the first section of the roof with quick detailer. Glide the clay across the area in a front to back motion applying some pressure. Work in 2x2 areas. If you feel your fingers going through the clay, then you are pushing too hard. If the clay is streaking on the paint, then you need more QD. While gliding, you should hear a slight noise and feel some resistance. This is the grit being lifted from the paint. When the resistance and noise stops, dry the QD off with a quality towel. Move onto the next 2x2 section and do the same thing. Once half the section is done, flip the clay over and do the other half of the section. Once the section has been completed throw the piece of clay away. It is too contaminated to use on another section. If you do use it, you will most likely put micro scratches in your clear.
Keep working your way down using each dedicated piece for its area. Flip the clay over when you have completed half a section. Throw the clay away when the section is done.
When complete your car should be as smooth as glass. The next steps should be to remove the swirls (if necessary), clean the paint, and seal in the rejuvenated finish with a wax or sealant.
BlueDragonZ
New member
WOW! I've thought of claying that way.:xyxthumbs :xyxthumbs
I usually just keep the car wet throughout the claying process.
I usually just keep the car wet throughout the claying process.
hondaguy2582
New member
AutoNova said:
Explain, most autopians on here don't use qd anymore(its too costly) to clay their cars . A soap that is basically neutral like water is not going to break clay down any faster than qd would.
Pats300zx
Super Moderator
I couldn't agree more. A little car wash soap and water in a spray bottle works perfect for me. :up
hondaguy2582 said:
I can't believe people here will spend hundreds of dollars on countless products just to 'try' them out, yet won't spend 6 bucks every 6 months on a QD to clay their car. I'm not against using a car wash solution, it's just the reasoning I don't agree with.
Bill.
I washed my fiancee's Tiburon today, and clayed the whole thing with Meguars QD and a Mother's clay bar. After I was done, I went out and rinsed the car off with a stream of water, dried it off, and got to work. A huge bottle of Meguiar's QD cost me $7, so no biggie - plus, I like the way it smells.
Alex
Alex