rock chip repair

John Styrnol said:
I'm not that picky, so I got a bottle of touch up paint from the body shop that did a some work for me and try to apply what I need. From a distance some spots you cannot see at all. The chip on the hood I fixed a couple of days ago I could not even find it for a few seconds, blends in really well.
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Good point. Some of the ones I did I did not wetsand over. The touchup was either on a lip/curve or it blended so well after the clear that I didn't need to sand/blend it.
 
say, I wanted to give you guys a heads up on my progress, esp since I'm so thankful for your advice now that I've quite successfully removed those really awful touch-ups (worst effort you've ever seen - on the part of the former owner) from my hood. these things looked like absolutely the wrong color paint had been applied using broad strokes with something like my girlfriend uses to polish her nails.



washed and clayed and used unigrit 3k with the megs backing pad. my process looked more like the megs video than a surgical procedure for the touch-up removal. (I imagine when I get to my own touch-ups it'll be surgical.) everything worked out so well I could kick myself for not taking photos, but the process moved so smoothly and effectively that I honestly didn't even think to stop.



what would have been worthwhile would have been photos of my expressions and a play by play of the blood draining from my face through each step, especially when everything was dry after wetsanding and before buffing.



circulation improved with occ on an orange pad with the pc, then returned to normal with yellow and green on the rotary for the rough spots. followed with ocp on blue with the pc (just for fun at this point, really) and finished with ocw.



but y'all were absolutely correct in recommending 3k, so thanks. really. I'm not sure how this would have gone for me with anything more abrasive - or how long it would have taken to bring the finish back.
 
ttt



Today I just filled up the rock chip, and I'm probably/maybe wanting to level the rock chip with sand paper. After I wet sand the rock chip which products by hand, would remove the wet sanding marks? (any polishes from Poor Boy would work by hand?)
 
I've been using the Menzerna line to clean up the sanding marks. Just about any mild polish will work, but by hand will take a while. Do a test spot first.
 
chpsk8 said:
I've been using the Menzerna line to clean up the sanding marks. Just about any mild polish will work, but by hand will take a while. Do a test spot first.
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Which Menzerna product do you use?



Someone reommended me to use Menzerna Compound, Menzarna Intensive and Menzerna Final Polish.
 
Picus said:
SSR2.5 works by hand but it takes quite a bit of effort to break it down. I'd stick with SSR2 for removing 3k grit marks by hand.
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then if i use SSR 2.0 is that enough to remove the marks? Or would I need to final polish it



Thxs..
 
If you're using 2500-3k unigrit SSR2 will take it out easily and should leave an lsp ready shine. If you're using 2k grit or less you might need something more abrasive like ssr2.5 followed by a finishing polish to take out the 2.5 marring.
 
Picus said:
If you're using 2500-3k unigrit SSR2 will take it out easily and should leave an lsp ready shine. If you're using 2k grit or less you might need something more abrasive like ssr2.5 followed by a finishing polish to take out the 2.5 marring.
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ok thxs I'll give it a try when the polish arrives..
 
I gave this a shot last night and wasn't pleased with my results - particularly the marring left by the wetsanding. It's my own damn fault though since I used 2000 grit sandpaper. I don't own a PC so tried some Meg's Scratch-X by hand and there is still some marring left. Any suggestions? Do I need to give the Scratch-X a few more passes with some vigorous rubbing? Or will too much cause even more damage? Should I use a microfiber applicator to do this?



I know - this thread is worthless w/o pics but I just wanted to ask the questions.



Thanks,



Jim
 
Perhaps the Scratch-X isn't aggressive enough? Shall I try something like Autoglym Super Resin Polish? Can I do any "real" damage with either of these products if polishing by hand? BTW - my car has metallic paint - it's an '06 Acura.
 
While it's *possible* to do damage, even by hand, it's unlikely as long as you're remotely sensible. SRP is milder than Scratch-X and both are mighty gentle. Using a MF to polish (which I generally do when working by hand) is usually more gentle than using foam (but they're close IMO), and both are a *lot* more gentle than using terry.
 
I was told of a trick by a muscle car guy regarding touching up small chips. As soon as you apply the touch-up paint, place celophane tape (scotch tape, real flat and smooth) over the chip. Let it dry, and when you take it off it's as good as the Langka kit. Not perfect, but much better than leaving a paint blob there.
 
So I'm a bozo and screwed up my chip repair. I blobbed on too much primer and then put touch up on top and then noticed that wet sanding took all the touch up off before it was level enough.



So, how I've got these blobs of primer and touch up and it's too late in the year where I live to fix, but I plan to do it next year.



How would I go about first clearing off the bad repair I did?
 
Alec said:
So I'm a bozo and screwed up my chip repair. I blobbed on too much primer and then put touch up on top and then noticed that wet sanding took all the touch up off before it was level enough.



So, how I've got these blobs of primer and touch up and it's too late in the year where I live to fix, but I plan to do it next year.



How would I go about first clearing off the bad repair I did?
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Easy mistake to make when you first try to do a touch-up. The "Blob Eliminator" in the Langka Kit does a pretty good job of removing touch-up paint, so it might work on the primer also, but *I* haven't tried it on primer. I also don't know how letting the paint dry until after winter will affect removing it. Below is a link to the Langka site that shows how the system works:



LANGKA Paint Chip and Scratch Repair



I guess I ought to add that while I thought that the "Blob Eliminator" did a fine job in removing the dried touch-up paint, it removed too much for my taste. Perhaps I need to play around with the "system" some more, but right now I prefer just to wet-sand and polish.
 
You will need a sanding pen or make your own with pencils and sand paper. Sand down the primer enough to fit some touch up in the chip then clean it well and apply your touch up.



If you sand all the way through the primer then apply some more primer, then touch up.
 
Alec said:
How would I go about first clearing off the bad repair I did?
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I'd use Langka, but you might be OK using regular lacquer thinner, which usually doesn't do much to factory paint. But the lacquer thinner gives me the willies so I'd buy the Langka.



Tip regarding primer: I usually find I don't really *need* primer. On aluminum cars and plastic trim I've done fine just using paint and on steel bodied cars I use a rust converter for the primer. Might not be the "right" way to do it, but it seems OK. By the time I get color coat and clear on there the last thing I need/want is another layer (i.e., the primer)to contend with. If you do use a primer, make sure that it and your (regular) paint is thin enough; many bottles of touch-up paint are thick as maple syrup. I have my painter thin a little bit for me to what he considers right for brush-touch-ups, and it's always a lot thinner than the stuff in the factory bottles.



Heh heh, to be honest, I've been having my painter *do* the touch-ups. Gotta admit he's a lot better at it than I am :o though I can't for the life of me figure out what I'm doing wrong. Maybe it's just a matter of having done it a zillion times over many decades :nixweiss but his are a lot less noticeable than the ones I do.



The previous owner did it this way on a *big* touch-up on the M3, big enough that I'm gonna have it reshot. This must be 1 1/4" X 3/8" at least, and the paint has stuck just fine without primer...a pretty radical/foolish example, but hey, it worked.
 
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