Jakerooni said:
What kind of technique are you using? Sounds to me like you have some bad pad selection going on there. 11 hours on just the hood and fender scares me if you're using any sort of polish. There's only so much clear on these things. I know there's people on here that claim 20+ hours for a detail. I've yet to comprehend what takes so long. If you actually "polished" on any car for that long you'd be down to the paint by then. So I have to assume something else is actaully taking place in all that time. Which is why I ask about the technique being used. maybe it'll shed some light on what's actually happening and why you're not seeing the results you should be by now.
I know everytime somebody disagrees with you Jake, you claim they are elitist.
Let me qualify your statements please...
What kind of technique are you using? Sounds to me like you have some bad pad selection going on there.
Sounds like he has very soft paint (which is why he gets chatter and squall from the pad. It is the sound of the foam material digging into the paint, however this will happen with any pad). Pad selection is not what is causing the squal, but rather the fact that he is using polishes with out high levels of slicones in my experience.
11 hours on just the hood and fender scares me if you're using any sort of polish. There's only so much clear on these things.
The problem here is that this is your experience and you are stating your limited experience as universal fact. How much of your polishing is done with a paint gauge and how carefully are you measuing the paint after each pass, or do you rely on general statements? I have spent 9 hours on a hood, but then I don't use products with slicones and fillers (and thus I know the reason of the pad squall). Polishing paint correctly vs. filling with oils and glazes (and not knowing better, other then to call others elitist) is a completely different ball game. There is a market for both types of work, but your comment is like a Pop Warner football player telling everybody that he could hit a Noylan Ryan fastball.... They are both sports, but not even the same game, let alone skill level.
I know there's people on here that claim 20+ hours for a detail. I've yet to comprehend what takes so long
Well if you don't comprehend the difference between re-leveling the paint and polishing it true vs. slinging some compound around until it looks good to your eyes (vs. perfect at a 10x microscope) then I cannot expect you to comprehend how you can spend 20 hours for a detail.
When I started "corrections" I would take 6-10 hours and end up with decent results, maybe enough for some people to call "perfect". I always have strived to improve my game and get better at what I do. I would agree to get a car pretty good (minus tight areas like lips, arches, and seams) takes 6-10 hours, defect free. However, I like to get cars 100% defect free, this takes another 3-4 hours (using small pads, polishig vents, etc). Now that all the defects are removed and paint looks good, I start really polishing. A lot and lot of micro refinishing, and jeweling, etc increases the gloss.
The reason is because any imperfections in the paint's surface (visible or not) act to refract light, or scatter it. The closer to perfection you can achieve at this level, the more light is reflected, the more the gloss is increased. I truely believe you can see the difference between properly jeweled paint vs. regular, defect free paint.
Another big difference is that most polishes will add gloss because of the oil lubrication that lays behind. Wiping the paint with a prep-sol solvent will slightly take away from teh gloss. However on cars that properly jeweled (micro refinished, taking several hours), wiping them down increases the gloss. When you see the paint get better after being wiped with a solvent, you will know you have taken it to the highest level at that point.
I think you have never seen a car done "right" so you set your limitations to by what you see.
If you actually "polished" on any car for that long you'd be down to the paint by then.
Correct!!! You start on paint and you would be sure to still be polishing on "paint" unless you where using wool pads and hack products. Then if you used bad technique, you woudl be polishing on "metal." Again it is like trying to explain to the British the world was round...
I think what you meant was that you would "stike through", and this is very false. Perhaps the products and your technique is overly aggressive, if this is your fear.
. So I have to assume something else is actaully taking place in all that time.
I understand what you are saying. If you have never strived to be better (or don't feel the need to improve for a varitey of reasons) then you would quicky hit a platuea. I will only say this, I think room exists for both ways of thinking. There is nothing wrong your way of thinking or the way your do work. Infact, it is shops that do cars in 5-6 hours that take me 20 hours to correct. You make money and cater to a market that demands certain results. I cater to a market that demands higher result and takes more time.
However your lack of understanding does come across as disrespectful. If you are curious as see the work that I do and the difference that I think you would, you are more then welcome to look me up if you are ever in Orlando. I would appericate the opportunity to see my work in person and see if you see a difference. I would also look foward to seeing your work as well.
. So do you think that I should go extremely less aggessive like I stated I would try with the SIP+white instead of the compound? That's why I'm getting the marring in the after pics, right? Because I'm just adding to the defects with the aggressive combos?
