Pats300zx
Super Moderator
I think Leehilo cursed me. I ended up dropping my #7 bottle while I was shaking it up. #7 all over the place including the floor. I was able to salvage half the bottle 
Revisiting an old enemy: Meg's #7
- Thread starter SuperBee364
- Start date
SuperBee364
New member
Somehow I missed these two posts...
Number 7 by far, Greg. The look is amazing.
I doubt that *most* sealants would adhere over the top of #7 very well. Sealants are typically water based, and don't go well over oil based glazes. Some hybrid sealants would probably work, though, like Fuzion.
Greg Nichols said:
Number 7 by far, Greg. The look is amazing.
Xyxyll said:
I doubt that *most* sealants would adhere over the top of #7 very well. Sealants are typically water based, and don't go well over oil based glazes. Some hybrid sealants would probably work, though, like Fuzion.
imported_Denzil
New member
Oh man, are these other products I have to try too? Sheesh Supe, you're a bad influence!!!
SuperBee364
New member
Denzil said:Oh man, are these other products I have to try too? Sheesh Supe, you're a bad influence!!!
Yes.. yes, they are. You know, this would be a lot easier if you'd just send me your debit card.
Good news, though, Denzil. Number 7 is really cheap. Actually, all of Meg's "Pure Polish"s are cheap.
Pats300zx said:I think Leehilo cursed me. I ended up dropping my #7 bottle while I was shaking it up. #7 all over the place including the floor. I was able to salvage half the bottle
I know the feeling. I dropped my M80 bottle put a nice crack in it, luckily only a little bit came out, so now it resides in a 32oz plastic Welches grape jelly jar.
imported_Ivan Rajic
New member
Pats300zx said:I think Leehilo cursed me. I ended up dropping my #7 bottle while I was shaking it up. #7 all over the place including the floor. I was able to salvage half the bottle
haha just saw this... you deserve that for 2 reasons... 1. I PMd you to change my name and you didn't yet, and 2. you misspelled the name you won't change!
ps: can you please change my name
imported_tim
New member
OK, let me see if I got this.
Use #7, get incredibly glossy ( if only temporary ) look.
To better preserve that look, seal it with NXT 2.0.
Good so far ?
Is there any advantage to using #7 over the NXT from that point?
Will it add more gloss ? Take away the protection of the NXT ?
Use #7, get incredibly glossy ( if only temporary ) look.
To better preserve that look, seal it with NXT 2.0.
Good so far ?
Is there any advantage to using #7 over the NXT from that point?
Will it add more gloss ? Take away the protection of the NXT ?
Greg Nichols
New member
Okay gang,
I reused #7 this past weekend, and its easy with Clear Coats, but its horrid with SS paints, unless someone can shed some light on SS paints. I really believe I saw a difference........hope its not the emperors new clothes effect. I'll post some images in my C&B later.
Cheers,
GREG
I reused #7 this past weekend, and its easy with Clear Coats, but its horrid with SS paints, unless someone can shed some light on SS paints. I really believe I saw a difference........hope its not the emperors new clothes effect. I'll post some images in my C&B later.
Cheers,
GREG
Greg Nichols said:
That's interesting, as #7 has been used with single-stage paint systems for decades. Many believe that they observe a notable improvement with SS paint, whereas they may only observe a subtle improvement (and perhaps even no improvement) with clear coat paint. I wonder why your experience was different. I am in no way challenging your experience, just registering my curiosity.
Greg Nichols
New member
^^^
Akimel
I agree it was formulated during the days of SS paint? It was a bear to remove and I did not get all of it off, even with hard buffing by hand. I will not give up, but I don't get many SS paints anymore, so using it again is limited.
The improvement is a bit better than say Red moose glaze, or DWG. I believe the benefits are that you can take a 95% correct paint and make it 99%.
Cheers,
GREG
Akimel
I agree it was formulated during the days of SS paint? It was a bear to remove and I did not get all of it off, even with hard buffing by hand. I will not give up, but I don't get many SS paints anymore, so using it again is limited.
The improvement is a bit better than say Red moose glaze, or DWG. I believe the benefits are that you can take a 95% correct paint and make it 99%.
Cheers,
GREG
SuperBee364
New member
zaxjax said:Hey Supe! I used #7 on this one topped with Souveran! It was a pain at first but once I got used to it, no problem.
zaxjax, that car looks stunning. Fantastic job, man.
spookertunes said:
I would be concerned that the solvents/oils in #7 would degrade your LSP. It's usually always best to put your glaze on first.
akimel said:
Back in the 80's is when I tried #7 and failed miserably. These were all SS paints. Using #7 on B/C is easy. I agree that it's strange for it to be hard to use on the type of paint it was originally designed for. IMO, if guys aren't seeing any improvement on B/C paint, they aren't rubbing down the #7 enough. In my limited experience with number 7, it takes a *lot* of post-application rubbing to really get it to look it's best.
Slik560
New member
The hard part for me is how the instructions say to not let the product dry before buffing it off. I have had excellent results on my SS white paint on the '87 Benz, but I have to work a small area at a time. I get paranoid about the stuff drying before I can get it off. The results are more than worth it, though. Until now I've been applying it by hand, but after this thread, I'll be using an orbital and a black or red finishing pad.
Accumulator
Well-known member
#7 can really soak into porous single-stage, and not always evenly. Heh heh...the effect sorta makes its old name "Sealer and Reseal Glaze" sound appropriate IMO.
I used to use it on black ss lacquer in the '70s and yeah...when it bites you it can be a huge PIA. I sometimes did OK by applying my *wax* to the same panel I was #7ing...working one panel at a time, I'd let the #7 "skin" to where I was ready to start buffing it off. I'd buff it off and apply my wax. Let the wax dry (to "finger-swipe" dryness) and then buff off. The excess #7 seemed to come off with the wax. But no, it didn't always work and sometimes I'd be left with a mess.
[Insert "why I pefer #5 even if it doesn't look nearly as good" ramble here..]
As for seeing much benefit from it (or any other Meg's Pure Polish, at least IME) on b/c, IMO it simply depends on the paint, and perhaps primarily on the paint's condition (esp. micro fissures, porosity, and any other characteristics that let the product gain a toe-hold). While #3 wiped right off a basically-perfect-condition new Audi of mine with zero benefit, such products could easily add a lot of gloss to some other paint and you won't know until you try. I see a *slight* improvement on the MPV when I use products like this on repainted areas (and adjacent oe-paint ones). Never really noticed that with the Audis even though they're always reshot with S-H paint, which is what they used on the MPV the last time :think:
As you've been worried about it drying, I'd sure be careful applying it by machine. If you "overcook" it you'll remember it clearly (for decades in my case ). The added oils/whatever in #3 might make it a better choice.
The folks at Meguiar's claim you can do the top-with-#7 thing without compromising the existing LSP. No, I haven't ever tried it
I used to use it on black ss lacquer in the '70s and yeah...when it bites you it can be a huge PIA. I sometimes did OK by applying my *wax* to the same panel I was #7ing...working one panel at a time, I'd let the #7 "skin" to where I was ready to start buffing it off. I'd buff it off and apply my wax. Let the wax dry (to "finger-swipe" dryness) and then buff off. The excess #7 seemed to come off with the wax. But no, it didn't always work and sometimes I'd be left with a mess.
[Insert "why I pefer #5 even if it doesn't look nearly as good" ramble here..]
As for seeing much benefit from it (or any other Meg's Pure Polish, at least IME) on b/c, IMO it simply depends on the paint, and perhaps primarily on the paint's condition (esp. micro fissures, porosity, and any other characteristics that let the product gain a toe-hold). While #3 wiped right off a basically-perfect-condition new Audi of mine with zero benefit, such products could easily add a lot of gloss to some other paint and you won't know until you try. I see a *slight* improvement on the MPV when I use products like this on repainted areas (and adjacent oe-paint ones). Never really noticed that with the Audis even though they're always reshot with S-H paint, which is what they used on the MPV the last time :think:
karburn said:
As you've been worried about it drying, I'd sure be careful applying it by machine. If you "overcook" it you'll remember it clearly (for decades in my case
). The added oils/whatever in #3 might make it a better choice.SuperBee364 said:
The folks at Meguiar's claim you can do the top-with-#7 thing without compromising the existing LSP. No, I haven't ever tried it