Revisiting an old enemy: Meg's #7

I agree with Accumulator, Megs pure polishes tend to wipe straight off new healthy paint. In contrast, on my 17 year old clearcoat white car, it digs in and looks superb.
 
pictures are worth a thousand words.. heres my tan 2003 civic (polished several months ago, finnished with 3m ultrafina. still swirl free accept for the top of the trunk, and the roof (was scared to get too agressive at the time) yesterday i decided to pus some #7 ontop of my surf city nano seal and glaze and top that with s100, the surf city doesnt bead like i would like it too. heres a picture, and i would consider this healthy paint, and #7 did make a noticable difference.



megs20720topped20with20s100.jpg
 
thanks superbee, thats nice to hear coming from a pro such as yourself ..my parents are having a picnic here today, ive already had 2 people ask me about it, ha.
 
I have had good luck with #7 in the past. On my sonic blue lighting it makes the paint drip. I usually top with 26, I have also tried nxt. Both added little to the look, just a tad darker nxt as 26 added more of a glow. Topping 7 seems to help the look stay around until the next wash.



I apply with a pc/lc blue at speed 3 or slower. As Accumulator mentioned, you do not want to "cook" the oils in 7 off with heat or over working. I prime the pad with a few small dots, I add 3-4 pea-sized dots as needed. The residue will be thin and should wipe easily.



I use the Mike Phillips "skinning" method until the paint isn't streaky.







Here is some eye candy with 7/26:



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For those having issues with #7 give DC#2 a try. It has a look that is very similar if not the same and is less finicky to work with. I rarely have #7 be a PITA but I do carry DC#2 for those occasions when it does. I apply the same as how I use #7 which can be found earlier in this thread.
 
Jason M said:
For those having issues with #7 give DC#2 a try...less finicky to work with..
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Or try my fave, #5 New Car Glaze. Actually, I find all the other-than-#7 Meg's pure polishes pretty easy to work with but #5 is the easiest.
 
Accumulator said:
Or try my fave, #5 New Car Glaze. Actually, I find all the other-than-#7 Meg's pure polishes pretty easy to work with but #5 is the easiest.
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I'll give #5 a try next time I need more glaze. Which at the rate I use glazes will be in 2020 :)
 
Jason M said:
I'll give #5 a try next time I need more glaze. Which at the rate I use glazes will be in 2020 :)
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Heh heh, yeah...I really only use it on fresh repaints. It works out great for those as it's just *so* easy to throw a coat on there after each wash.
 
I have to agree, Megs#5 is much easier to use than #7. I just got off the phone with Meguairs customer care and the guy told me that #5 can be used with a rotary(dont know why you would want to do that) and #7 cannot.
 
#3 is formulated to be used with a rotary. I know that Tim Lingor and others love the look they get from #3 when applied by a rotary.
 
roadmaster_Tx said:
I have to agree, Megs#5 is much easier to use than #7. I just got off the phone with Meguairs customer care and the guy told me that #5 can be used with a rotary(dont know why you would want to do that) and #7 cannot.
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I have put 7 on by a rotary. I did it that way long time ago. I used a finishing pad and really low speed. Don't get crazy, if you use to much speed or overwork it the oils flash off. Then you will wish you done it by hand. :p





I never had any problems. FWIW I use a PC for applications now. :buffing:
 
roadmaster_Tx said:
I just got off the phone with Meguairs customer care and the guy told me that #5 can be used with a rotary(dont know why you would want to do that) and #7 cannot.
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-AND-



scary bill said:
I have put 7 on by a rotary. I did it that way long time ago.
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I used #7 via rotary back in the 70s and it worked OK as long as you didn't overwork it. The much drier #5 is the one I wouldn't have considered rotary-friendly :nixweiss
 
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